LzChase

One of my friends found a used Marui PSG-1 which had a broken lower receiver. He's put a replica PMII scope on it instead as he's working on rebuilding it to resemble an MSG90A1. I traded him some pistols for the original scope, which now sits on my VFC PSG-1. But can I play with it or should I use it as a display scope? For those who don't know, even though I think most people do know, the Marui PSG-1 is an EBB with almost no recoil while the VFC version is a GBBR with a full size reciprocating bolt assembly made from a pretty heavy alloy. The Marui PSG-1 Scope is pretty hard to come by on it's own so I don't want to break it. The scope itself is a Tasco 4x40 dressed up like a Hensoldt Wetzlar scope, so it's a very simple model. It is not illuminated and has fixed magnification.

Short question, I need to shim my barrel, does anyone happen to know a barrel nut wrench that fits the VFC HK416 series? The barrel nut is real spec diamater, however an HK wrench is impossible to find around here. I would also like to know what the torque spec for said barrel nut is if someone happens to know. From experience, I have removed a damaged one using a pipe wrench once since it was already broken, and it was really on there. There was no glue on that particular one, it was just torqued down a lot.

Is there supposed to be tension on the sling when you hold a weapon using the typical C-clamp method? It makes reloading slightly more difficult, but if I make the sling longer, my weapon hangs too low for me to be able to do efficient pistol transistions. Am I missing something?

Well RCR123A rechargeable lithium battery. I know nothing about electonics so I'm not sure what this graph is saying but I assume rechargeable batteries, at least of the type I'm using, are not the best

I have issues with getting the NGAL to run. The laser is really nice and bright at first, but it only takes it like 1 minute to drop until it's barely daylight visible. It stays that way until I put in a new battery. I'm using rechargeable batteries, am I supposed to use regular ones? Or am I missing something? The NGAL is made by WADSN and is the aluminium version.

Yes like the reply above states, it is treated as blind firing. It's really on the borderline but in the end the staff decided to not allow it.

Interesting, can we get a picture?

Not quite. All parts are traced. I trace it like this since an outline like this looks much cleaner than photoshopping parts together. A slightly tricky part however is the scale. I add a properly scaled ruler to the workpiece as a reference.

Anyone else like drawing concept art to get a general idea of what a build might look like? I recently made this one for my current build. This one is a full concept art but sometimes I just photoshop parts together. It's a good way to see if things fit. Edit: The quality dropped in the attached file, here is a higher resolution version and a closeup of the Torch and NGAL, which I now see says "DFA" instead of "FDA" https://i.imgur.com/1an3EeZ.png https://i.imgur.com/PS2tzVW.png

Probably not, but according to this video, somewhere someday, it was allowed.

A few years ago, I and the other players that day found out that overhopping on purpose to get around a corner can yield hilarious results. Of course, we were told off once the staff found about about our new "technique"

Offset BUIS and airsoft guns is known to be a problematic combination. But just how far can you stretch it's usage? I've used them many times and they proved sufficient for my needs. I previously posted a thread about NGAL and BUIS. I found an offset BUIS can sit behind the NGAL without blocking the battery compartment so I considered dedicating them to the build. Of course they also look pretty cool, which surprised me, I expected it to look a bit odd with the slim SMR rail. Either way I conducted an experiment on offset BUIS and airsoft guns. Test Platform: VFC HK416A5 GBBR with Magpul MBUS Pro Offset BUIS. 345 FPS. Stock Barrel. NH - No Hop H - Hop Point Blank - Just use a rubber knife 5M NH - No issues. 5M H - No issues. 10M NH - No issues. 10M H - No issues. 15M NH - BBs start falling short, slight compensation needed. 15M H - Very Slight curve. Still hits a man sized target 90% of the time. 20M NH - Compensation is more significant, it can be done but it's rather unefficient. 20M H - Doable but sideways compensation is now needed. 20 Meters seem to be the limit for both, attempting longer ranges causes major problems with either trajectory or sideways deviation. Conclusion? For CQB airsoft canted sights can be a good choice, but as an actual backup sight for longer ranges they won't really help. So the statement that this type of BUIS is useless in airsoft is both true and false.

True, the NGAL light is surprisingly bright, however I'm also going for looks, it's a "fun thing project" like you know, sticking a 27 liter aircraft engine in a car because it's a fun thing to do but not in any way needed. It's inspired by special forces rifles like CAG and DEVGRU use. They always have a torch since a real NGAL is an IR illuminator and lacks a visible torch

I tried but with the NGAL on the left side I can't hold the rifle comfortably. I can't put it on the right side because there's a torch and a switch there

Anyone know if there are flip up sights narrow enough to where the laser on an NGAL clears them? Most of them I've tried block the laser and I can't put the sight behind the NGAL as it would block the battery compartment. Should I try canted sights? While I haven't played in a while, I used to run 45 degree canted sights quite often. Infamously useless at longer ranges when attached to an airsoft gun, I only used them in CQB where looking through an LPVO would restrict FOV too much, 5-15 meters or so.