38super

Hi All Looking to get a tracer unit for my AEG. My new barrel extends about 5cm beyond the 14mmCCW thread and while I know I could just get an outer barrel extension I feel it would spoil the look. The Acetech Predator S is 17cm long but the tracer unit inside is only 11cm long. If the tracer unit sits at the front then this could work as the tracer unit would still be ahead of the muzzle. Is anyone able to confirm of deny if that works?

Ok. I got hold of a voltage tester. Here's the results from my 3 batteries. 1st - 11.1v Nuprol - a few weeks old 2nd - 7.4v Nuprol - as above 3rd - 7.4v WE - came with the gun so age unknown All charged a couple of days ago. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OuesPFSrccG1qF5GG6GUcfNKx4wV6QFP/view?usp=sharing The tester has an adjustable low voltage alarm so I'll find a way to leave it attached to the 11.1 when it's in the gun at least until I get an idea of how long it should last. If that goes off by my ear I will definitely hear it. Just hope it doesn't happen when I'm sneaking up on someone.

I was happy to wait for a bargain as I wasn't in a hurry. I could have had a 10 gun for £150 but decided I didn't need that much space. Like you I found the cost of storage cabinets to be surprisingly high. If my collection grows a lot more I might look at something like this in the future:- https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3913062612063139/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A311c4b8d-cd74-49f0-a8a6-bceab69f0b49

I shopped around for lockable cabinet on FB marketplace for a while and ended up with a 7 gun 'real gun' cabinet for £100. A bit over the top for what's needed really but it's big enough for me and a reasonable price for the size. Seriously heavy though.

Thanks for the info. I didn't know such things existed. I'm tempted to see if it's possible to fit one on the gun to monitor the battery until I get used to it.

This. Probably 10 years old but was a decent one at the time for my RC helicopter. Should I get a newer one? I've got a multimeter kicking around somewhere. Would that do?

As far as I can tell there is no option to set the battery voltage. Found this:- and I've also read that damage occurs to a LiPo at 2.5v/cell So..... Really bad to run a 3cell 11.1v LiPo down to 6 volts where the mosfet cuts out but how the heck are you supposed to feel vibrations from the mosfet with everything else going on? It appears I shouldn't run an 11.1 down below 9volts. Certainly not to 6v.??? It would appear to be only really safe for 7.4's which don't seem to last. I'm now wondering if I've done something that has massively ramped up the current draw. I'd probably gone through about 15 midcaps by the time the 11.1 stopped working. Anyone know how long a 7.4v LiPo could be expected to last?

I was very happy yesterday with my full head protection. Helmet, goggles, face mask + earpro. Took a few pings to the helmet so worth the extra bit of sweating. And it kept the sun off.😄

As far as I can tell the low voltage setting is fixed at 6 volts but I don't have a manual to be sure. I had charged the batteries a couple of days before and I'd used the 7.4 to chrono around 25-30 shots. I wouldn't have expected the voltage of the 7.4 to drop that much over 100 or so shots. Does the duration of the 11.1v 1100mah battery at about 1700-1800 shots seem about right?

My Double Eagle M904g had it's first game today. Started off with my 1100mah 11.1v 20 battery which ran perfectly. Decided to swap to my 1100mah 7.4v 20c at lunchtime which is where the problem started 50-100 shots into the first game after lunch and the gun stopped! No reaction from the trigger I didn't hear any sound from the mosfet but it's very quiet. Swapped back to the 11.1 and all fine except that the mosfet had lost it's programmed single/3 shot burst and defaulted to single/full-auto. Carried on with the 11.1 until the late afternoon until (after around 2000 shots) that stopped too. I hadn't expected the 11.1 to last the whole day so it was kind of expected to die but the 7.4 should have been fine. I've used the 7.4 several times before but only with a handful of shots. I'm going to get another 11.1 as the obvious solution but the gun has (and is meant to) work with 7.4's. Just wondering if anyone can shed any light on this? Both batteries are new Nuprols. Thanks Rob

Load out pretty much ready for my first game. Was due to be the 4th but looks like not now. Still undecided about knee pads or a sidearm though. I'm taking a pistol as backup in case the Double Eagle misbehaves but probably won't carry it.

Yep, something like that but I'm on a DPM/woodland load out. I'd prefer not to go multicam just for the lid.

Looking at that top picture I now know what the swivel clips for arc rails are for😁 I like the popper idea. Not having to put tension on the mask would be more comfortable . i think I'm going to run into problems when I've fitted the ear pro adapters which will take up a big chunk of rail space. Anyone know where I can get this style of helmet cover for an airframe?

Neck protection is one of the things I'm working on. Any tips? That's definitely neater. Did you cut the original strap to fix it like that? I'm still deciding if I want fix the goggles there or the mask. I like the idea of keeping the mask separate from the goggles and using the rail clips to fix the mask so that the mask can be unclipped on one side and swung out of the way. Attaching the mask and goggles together and just a single strap to the rail like yours is so much neater though. I'm a bit reluctant to cut the goggle strap until I'm sure. It looks like I should be able to change the strap loops on the goggles to replace the strap but I haven't seen that yet.

Still a work in progress but it's coming along.

Let's assume that I'm not in a position to spend more on my trousers than I spent on my RIF. They do look like good kit though. This look like an idea worth pursuing though. Unless they have moveable knee pads the leg length will be wrong for me (28" inside leg) I like this idea. Similar to what I had in mind using velcro but simpler.

Since I've already got the pocket inserts looks like it's time to brush up on my sewing skills. If that fails I'll try the Altaflex.

Most people recommend knee pads but I've never had much success with them myself. Always found them more trouble than they were worth. For the odd occasion when I've needed them they have usually slipped down to my ankles or I'm constantly pulling them up. Either too loose to stay put or tight enough to cut off the circulation in my legs. I've tried some trousers with the built in knee pad pockets but as I'm vertically challenged the pockets are at shin level. I'm thinking maybe adding custom pockets to my trousers which could be tricky or using velcro patches to try to keep the pads in place. Does any one have any fool proof tips or ideas for knee pro?

Booked in for my first ever game at Spartan on the 4th.

That's a whole other problem as I'm right handed for rifles and left handed for pistols. I've decided to leave the sidearm problem until I've got some experience. The only things I'm sure of there is that it has to be a 1911 of some sort and I hate thigh/leg holsters.

That's the plan. I figure that if I get into a fire fight that uses more than 300 rounds I probably brought the wrong gun. I tried doubling up the mag pouches but didn't really like the bulky feel of them so thought I'd try it this way first. The first one on the right is fairy easy to reach anyway.

The black belt and pouches are kit I already had. I'm trying really hard not to buy lots of stuff which I think might be useful until I've had a chance to try it out but there is so much temptation out there.😁 The belt is less than half the weight of what it used to be when loaded up with 12g mags.

Here's my first attempt at a loadout ready for April kickoff. Just went for the belt rig in the end. 5 mid-caps (room for 8), spare pouch for empty mags, pouch for drink bottle (or radio?), pouch for spare battery/tools?/snacks? Feel free to suggest improvements.

That pin is out of the tube left side of frame between the safety lever and the slide stop lever. It's the slide catch detent pin. It's shaped like that to stop it coming out of the front of the tube when you remove the catch for strip down.

I think my M4 magazines are the wrong shape for a smersh rig.