38super

Thank you for the details. You are quite right. On closer inspection there is a faint 1 that I missed. Sorry. So 4.5K in line with the gauge and 1.8k nearer the equipment end. It was given to me as new and has never been filled, used or modified until a few days ago. I'd be expecting perished seals at least. The tank itself is in good condition so probably just easiest to replace the reg rather than rebuild it.

The writing on the tank says 0.625X18UNF TW DCEC AA6061 T6 PW205PH310BAR (Pi)0035 -40C D 2009/11 A000122 Burst disks have 4.5K and 8K stamped on them.

Hi All I have an old 13ci 310bar tank dated 2009 which I got from new but has never been used. 1st question is should I be even considering using it or just bin it? I tried filling it for the very first time a couple of days ago just up to 2-300 psi. All fine until about an hour later it started venting through one of the burst valves. I assume the reg needs rebuilding. Is it worth the effort? TIA

Am I right in thinking that the knocker in G series pistols holds the magazine valve open until the slide recoils? In consequence anything which causes the slide to be slow, delayed or stuck means that the mag vents extra gas or just vents continuously? That's how it appears to operate and I'm not sure it's meant to. Or is the action of the slide critical to current function? TIA.

I've heard that but also heard they can be fixed by tightening them up or gasket glue. The Prowins might be out as I they don't make a WE style gas router version. I haven't been able to find any info on the Guarders although they do appear to use standard TM feed lips and gas routers.

Here's my AP7. Still a work in progress. Pretty much still stock inside apart from a ML rubber, Hadron Fang plate and TTI trigger. I'm looking at lightweight 50rd mags (not going HPA). Options seem to be Action Army, Guarder or Prowin. Anyone got any experience of these? I can't seem to find any kind of consensus just lots of conflicting opinions. WE mags are impossible to find so I might just stick with TM mags with the AA router upgrade.

Very inconsistent. Some double feeds. Some bb's just going a few metres. Much more pronounced with full mags. Stripped the gear box and found no compression. Going for new cylinder and piston heads. I'm mainly wondering if the stock nozzle is suitable for the Prowin/Maple Leaf combo as the stock Cyma nozzle is shorter than most. Also getting a new piston with a metal rack to have a go at short stroking while I've got it in pieces.

Thanks. I've seen that vid. The gun definitely gives the symptoms of very low fps and double feeding if I try to fill the mags beyond about half capacity What I want to find out is whether the initial fit of the stock nozzle is correct and just try to fix the wobble or should I be looking to get the nozzle fit correct and then fix the wobble? The nozzle also appears to retract further than necessary to allow a BB to feed. I would have though this made double feeds more likely as it makes more space in the chamber. Should I modify the tappet plate so that the nozzle doesn't retract so far?

Question for the techies. How should the nozzle on an AEG fit with the bucking when it's fully forward? Should the nozzle go inside the bucking or the nozzle chamfer be just touching the bucking lips? The correct answer is probably 'whatever gives the best seal' but I'm looking for a guideline here. RIF is a Cyma P90 with a prowin hop unit and maple leaf bucking. The stock nozzle (20.45mm) has almost no chamfer on it and seems to sit on top of the bucking lips. The fit looks OK but there is quite a bit of wobble in the nozzle on the cylinder head and I'm concerned that the nozzle doesn't line up properly with the bucking when there is a lot of BB pressure from the magazine pressing on it. Any help much appreciated.

+1 for the Vector Frenzy. I have them on my Action Air GBB pistol which runs on black gas and on a RS .22LR LBP. No issues on either although I do have them frame mounted not on the slide. Haven't needed to try the warranty yet but it's supposed to be good.

People do seem happy with the top rail but I'm not happy with it as an engineering solution. Went for the short rear rail instead. It'll be here tomorrow so I'll be able let you know how it goes.😃

Just about to order an AAP-01 to use as a sidearm. Has anyone had any experience of the 'RMR mounting plate with high rise iron sights' or running a mini red dot sight on the long top rail? The long top rail looks like it just taps into the polymer. Is it strong enough for a sight mount?

I was under the impression that a P90 high cap can empty the mag on one wind? I'll have to go and waste some ammo to try mine and see. The only time I've used it so far I only had around 50 BB's remaining before I did a tactical reload. No repeated winding needed. I have heard there are reliability problems but mine worked the one time I used it.

Flash hiders are an absolute no no in the UK but suppressors/moderators are an odd one. If you want to have a moderator for a firearm you must have a space on your FAC for it. Suppressors for airsoft guns are freely available. Apart from build quality and thread size I'm not sure where the line is drawn.

When you have new toys you have to play with them. It's a rule.😁

Had a great day at Warminster Airsoft today. Blue won the morning game with one bridge out of three to Red's none but some good teamwork by Red after lunch got the the bomb in place for a convincing win. First time out with my new SRS and got plenty of good hits with it. Loved the short length and balance of the SRS, very easy to move around with it slung on my back. Ran my P90 as a sidearm and enjoyed using both all day. Good hit taking on both sides from what I saw. Suffered from bad fogging in the first game of the day but managed to sort it and goggles stayed clear after that. I'll definitely go with the SRS/P90 combo again, just need to make sure the P90's weapon clip doesn't fall off again. Good day out, many thanks to all at Warminster today. Good pic of the P90 sidearm.😁 New hat causing fogging issues. Hat change sorted the fogging problems followed by a successful first day with the SRS.😎

Ok. Will do. Thanks for the info.

Took my Cyma P90 gearbox apart to put in a reduced power spring and found pretty much no airseal. Apart from the V6 specific cylinder head and presumably P90 specific nozzle, are the other parts like cylinder, piston, piston head V6 specific or just standard AEG? TIA

Update.after fitting new piston cup. Before: 331 +/- 9 fps Finger over the muzzle test - 9 seconds Audible air leak from back of cylinder After: 337 +/- 3 fps with around 1 shot in 10 dropping to 331 fps. Finger over the muzzle test - 40 seconds plus No audible sound of air leaking. Next task is checking the hop unit.

Some people on fb have said it looks OK to them but I'm not convinced as I've definitely seen better. I've raised it with the retailer and sent the vid direct to Silverback. Waiting on a response from either.

The action is not as slick as a VSR style bolt action. I won't be doing a 'mad minute' with it but I've got used to it fairly easily. Having said that mine is only pushing 1.5 joules. When the Rapax 2+ spring goes in I might feel differently.

Something to look forward to there then. AEG's seem pretty straightforward in comparison. I know cleaning the barrel is essential. For the sake of £5 and 2 minutes work I'm going to get a replacement piston cup and see if it looks or behaves differently. I've already got a Mousefart piston head on the way so I'll be able compare. Some people on an SRS fb page say it looks OK but I'm getting 330 +/- 7 fps on .3's with no hop. Ideally I'd like better consistency.

Accuracy is fundamentally the pursuit of consistency. Getting the gun to do exactly the same thing every time. Especially important for sniper guns. From what I've read the SRS is supposed to be very good for air seal. I have noticed this. I don't know how perfectly circular the edge of the piston cup needs to be.

I did the test with the barrel end cap off. You can hear air leaking out of the back of the cylinder. Same thing happens if I take the bolt out and hold my finger over the nozzle. I've watched that video and his was the first method I tried, just using a little silicon oil. When that didn't work I tried other methods I've seen used such as a thin layer of silicone grease. No luck. Update. Cleaned it all out and started again with just silicone oil. No different. Definitely not getting 100% seal in the cylinder. (Note: This is with the original hop. I haven't fitted the Fasthop yet.