38super

I went with the Gold MTR-16 (because 'shiny'😁) Initial test OOTB was quite promising. With 0.3's and the hop wound right up, chrono'd at just under 290fps for a fairly consistent 1.15 joules At 25m it could hit and knock down the standard 5inch square steel plates we use for pistols every shot. At 30m the accuracy wasn't quite there and the hit rate dropped considerably. BB energy seems to be sufficient but a bit more accuracy would be good. The BB's were ASG Blasters so not the best. Time to get some Geoff's 0.3' and see if there's a difference. Very pleased for an OOTB experience.

Thank for this. 2J is a max. I'm keen to find out what one of these can do. If I can get the downrange energy I need under 2J I'll be happy. The GM mods are probably sensible anyway since TM mags are impossible to find at the moment. The MTR-16 arrived today so I'll be running it stock to begin with and see what I need to do. I'll probably start with the semi only mod and take it from there. 4J would put me firmly into Section 5 status which I'd prefer to avoid. That would definitely do the job though.

I'm looking to build a pew for IPSC competition shooting. (Not for skirmishing) Must be: GBBR Semi auto only Accurate as possible to a max of 30m 2 joules maximum energy Needs to have enough energy at 30m to punch through a cardboard target or knock down a small plate. Currently looking at a TM MTR-16, putting in a 400mm tightbore barrel, green gas and bb's around .40 for the downrange energy. Apart from replacing the nozzle return spring what else might I need to do to it? TIA

Given the unavailability of genuine TM mags what is the 2nd best option? Fire Support have some choices?

In the last update from Sportsman's Assoc there was mention of Border Force accepting membership as 'valid defence' which surprised me. I wouldn't have thought they'd know about it.

Thank you for the details. You are quite right. On closer inspection there is a faint 1 that I missed. Sorry. So 4.5K in line with the gauge and 1.8k nearer the equipment end. It was given to me as new and has never been filled, used or modified until a few days ago. I'd be expecting perished seals at least. The tank itself is in good condition so probably just easiest to replace the reg rather than rebuild it.

The writing on the tank says 0.625X18UNF TW DCEC AA6061 T6 PW205PH310BAR (Pi)0035 -40C D 2009/11 A000122 Burst disks have 4.5K and 8K stamped on them.

Hi All I have an old 13ci 310bar tank dated 2009 which I got from new but has never been used. 1st question is should I be even considering using it or just bin it? I tried filling it for the very first time a couple of days ago just up to 2-300 psi. All fine until about an hour later it started venting through one of the burst valves. I assume the reg needs rebuilding. Is it worth the effort? TIA

Am I right in thinking that the knocker in G series pistols holds the magazine valve open until the slide recoils? In consequence anything which causes the slide to be slow, delayed or stuck means that the mag vents extra gas or just vents continuously? That's how it appears to operate and I'm not sure it's meant to. Or is the action of the slide critical to current function? TIA.

I've heard that but also heard they can be fixed by tightening them up or gasket glue. The Prowins might be out as I they don't make a WE style gas router version. I haven't been able to find any info on the Guarders although they do appear to use standard TM feed lips and gas routers.

Here's my AP7. Still a work in progress. Pretty much still stock inside apart from a ML rubber, Hadron Fang plate and TTI trigger. I'm looking at lightweight 50rd mags (not going HPA). Options seem to be Action Army, Guarder or Prowin. Anyone got any experience of these? I can't seem to find any kind of consensus just lots of conflicting opinions. WE mags are impossible to find so I might just stick with TM mags with the AA router upgrade.

Very inconsistent. Some double feeds. Some bb's just going a few metres. Much more pronounced with full mags. Stripped the gear box and found no compression. Going for new cylinder and piston heads. I'm mainly wondering if the stock nozzle is suitable for the Prowin/Maple Leaf combo as the stock Cyma nozzle is shorter than most. Also getting a new piston with a metal rack to have a go at short stroking while I've got it in pieces.

Thanks. I've seen that vid. The gun definitely gives the symptoms of very low fps and double feeding if I try to fill the mags beyond about half capacity What I want to find out is whether the initial fit of the stock nozzle is correct and just try to fix the wobble or should I be looking to get the nozzle fit correct and then fix the wobble? The nozzle also appears to retract further than necessary to allow a BB to feed. I would have though this made double feeds more likely as it makes more space in the chamber. Should I modify the tappet plate so that the nozzle doesn't retract so far?

Question for the techies. How should the nozzle on an AEG fit with the bucking when it's fully forward? Should the nozzle go inside the bucking or the nozzle chamfer be just touching the bucking lips? The correct answer is probably 'whatever gives the best seal' but I'm looking for a guideline here. RIF is a Cyma P90 with a prowin hop unit and maple leaf bucking. The stock nozzle (20.45mm) has almost no chamfer on it and seems to sit on top of the bucking lips. The fit looks OK but there is quite a bit of wobble in the nozzle on the cylinder head and I'm concerned that the nozzle doesn't line up properly with the bucking when there is a lot of BB pressure from the magazine pressing on it. Any help much appreciated.