Cyberlawyer

The stock inner barrel is pretty good. The main reason to change is to go longer or tight bore (or both) to get more FPS. Note that some lesser quality tight bore barrels may bump FPS but at the cost of accuracy if the finish to the inner bore isn’t very uniform.

A lot of airsofters overlook rifle ergonomics in favour of more FPS or fancy sights when it’s an area where small changes can make a huge difference to your shooting. One of the big reasons all my GBB rifle builds use the same grip. I have found an angle that works for me so I use it all the time, nothing speeds target acquisition than having a rifle that naturally points where you are looking.

yes, the 416c kit is calling me. Not only is it a barrel length I don’t have, but the kit is so complete that it shouldn’t be too hard to complete using all aftermarket parts.

For my next project I want to build an MWS based HK416c using no TM parts, just after market bits. That one is going to have to wait a while though as it will be quite expensive.

My latest build, a very minimalist light weight build especially for 2/3 gun competition shooting. 14 inch barrel, light weight 14 inch m-lox rail, locked to semi, shooting about 430 fps. And a family photo with my mk12 DMR and my mk 18.

My cold weather backup is a can of Nuprol 4.0. The MWS runs brilliantly on black gas on stock internals in the cold. If it’s too cold for the MWS to work well on black gas then it’s too cold for me to want to play.....

It was a complete lower receiver only, as I already have a spare upper. I got a decent price. If you count what I paid for the upper when I bought it (minus the new rail etc I put on it) it was still a decent chunk cheeper than I could have bought a second hand MWS for. I thought about using epoxy but I’m too impatient to wait for it to dry properly so I spoke to a mate who specialises in welding aluminium and filled it with a spot of weld. Some careful grinding back with a dremel and it’s virtually invisible. I will reinstate the rotation pins as the damage to the upper has been done and this lower Is for my 2/3 gun competition rifle so it suits that civilian AR look, but I wouldn’t have bothered otherwise. It just reduces the resale value.

The anti rotation bolts I have require two holes to be drilled in the lower. Where the fake forward trigger box retaining pins are located. These fit two small studs in the front of the anti-rotation pins that stop them twisting. These need to be drilled very carefully preferably with a pillar drill and using a punch hole as a guide. With the trigger box removed just to be safe. The maniac that installed the ones I have clearly didn’t exercise proper care and made a real mess of drilling one side. To fix it I’m going to have to fill the crater he created and sand a refinish a bit of the receiver. given I can see absolutely no practical reason to fit them I can’t see why anyone would want to drill holes in their receiver just for a minor aesthetic change.

Personally I can’t say I have ever used one and all of my guns have seen plenty of red and black gas as well as green. Only upgrade I have made to the BGC is an npas to regulate FPS and I keep a couple of spare Nozzle return springs on hand as they can go (although they can last ages, it’s a bit of a lottery). I’d run it stock for a while and only install the upgrades if the OEM parts break.

I’m using the black MWS one. Most of my gun is stock internally my only internal upgrades are inner barrel, hop rubber, hop hub and npas and that’s it. I have a 450 FPS DMR as one of my MWS’ and in terms of performance the above list (with a long inner barrel) is all it took.

I’d recommend an npas to regulate performance variations based on temperature. Over the last summer (during the small window you could get a game) it was so hot green gas was running too hot to pass chrono. It is a bit of a pain to set up every game day, but much more precise and way cheaper than carrying multiple cans of gas. I will use 2.0 95%of the time and only switch to red/black gas if it is very chilly.

In all honesty I have no idea, I don’t thing I ever chronoed them before I fitted an npas.

My personal experience is that Abby Ultra is a bit weaker than Nuprol 2, but the MWS is pretty gas efficient so runs well on both. I prefer Nuprol 2, (or 3 or 4 in certain conditions), but it depends what you have available. I do have a couple of metal slide pistols that run like crap on Abby Ultra, but will chug away all day on Nuprol 2, hence my preference.

So I managed to pick up a mildly abused lower to match up with my spare upper so I will have 3 complete MWS in 10” 14” and 18” barrel lengths. My question to the collective is that this lower has had dummy anti-rotation latches fitted to it. (It is the absolute appalling manner that these were fitted in that is the cause of the abuse). Pretty sure I can fix the damage and refinish the lower to the point it will be invisible, but the original punch pin is missing. Having been replaced by the threaded rod for the latches. Any one have any experience with these? are they OK or should I make the effort to reinstate the original punch pin?

Just had my mk12 apart to fit a new hop rubber. Was doing a bit of shooting in the garden and it felt a bit anaemic (garden is too short to really test the drop in range). A quick chrono showed it was shooting at around 200fps. Stuck a new hop rubber in it and boom back to 450 FPS with some room on the npas to go higher. No obvious damage to the original hop, just obviously wasn’t sealing well at the barrel end. Just goes to show how critical that little rubber tube is to the performance of our toys....

All of my MWS have the brass hop nub, upgraded inner barrels of various lengths and n-pas valves fitted. Other than that it’s only the externals that have been upgraded. Red gas adds between 15 to 40 FPS compared to nuprol 2.0. depending on the ambient temperature at the time (higher temperature less difference) and the length of the inner barrel (longer inner barrels see a bigger increase). I really only use Red Gas to give the cycle back its snap when it gets a bit sluggish in the cold. I can adjust the n-pas to get to the desired FPS on regular Nuprol 2.0 on even the coldest days, but the bolt cycle can be pretty draggy when the temp gets pretty low.

I have run several MWS’ on Nuprol 3.0 when it gets a bit chilly. In all cases they have run great with no apparent damage. In my experience it really puts the snap back in the cycle when regular green gas starts to get a bit sluggish as the temperature drops.

I’d add a well chosen barrel and an n-pas to that list. True a barrel can go both ways, but a good one is basically just free extra FPS and the n-pas is a virtual necessity to manage FPS given the wild swings in temp in the U.K.

It is very unfair (and not very informative) to use a broken bb to test uniformity of shape. Any force capable of breaking a BB (particularly shearing it like the one in the picture) is more than capable of causing that deformation. You really need to test on a new unfired BB as even impacts that don’t break a BB are more than capable of causing deformation, which is the main reason it’s never recommend to reuse fired BBs.

What is getting cut up? You putting one of the KWAs into that white Krytac again?

Thought I’d post a pic of my latest MWS build. Going for more of a competition 3 gun vibe to complement my current Mk18 build (with additional mk12 upper). Its still a work in progress, I need to source an m-loc angled fore grip and a more modern less angled pistol grip. I also need a more modern looking site. Thinking of a vortex UH-1 but everywhere is out of stock at the moment as they are waiting for the gen 2 to come into stock.

Airsoft Plantation is a very well run site and I have always had a good time there (I am fortunate that it is very local to me). The only downside is if it is raining some bits do get very swampy pretty quickly. Personally not a problem for me on a game day, but some folks do get a bit grumpy when they come back caked in mud, and it does make the post event clean down a bit of a ball ache. This is by no means a unique problem and would be true of any Woodland site with hereby ground water (AP is next to a fishing lake). Let’s be honest it has to be pretty decent if the weather is the biggest problem.

Anyone have a good recommendation for a 13.5 inch m-lok Rail that fits the MWS? Ideally one that’s in stock....

Glad it helped. It isn’t an original idea I got it from somewhere, but I can’t think where. Might even be somewhere earlier in the 130 odd pages of this thread....

I can’t help on the torch as I have never used one, but the stock wobble can be addressed quite easily and cheaply. All I did was attach a strip of the fuzzy side of the Velcro to the top of the buffer tube. It just takes up the space eliminating the wobble, but allowing the stock to move freely. You can tune how stiff you want it by how wide you make the strip. Start at somewhere about 1 cm wide and try it. If it’s too stiff make the strip narrower if it’s too loose make it a bit wider. After a bit of trial and error you will find the sweet spot for you. You only need the strip to go from the last adjustment point to the end of the buffer tube so it shouldn’t ever be visible even with the stock fully extended.