Cyberlawyer

@Hypokondrikern I have no idea how she performs yet as I stupidly broke the bolt catch when manhandling the trigger box. I have just received and fitted a new one, but it was too late for any testing. I will shoot it for the first time tomorrow so will report back offer that.

So here is the latest addition to my MWS collection. 8” PDW build. As some of you will remember from the above I picked up an MTR to use the ambi lower in my competition gun. This is what I did with the bits I had left. Its the MTR upper receiver (I wanted the forward assist on my competition gun) with a regular MWS lower a guarder front end kit and a G&P PDW stock. Still a few bits to sort. NPAS is on order and I managed to bugger up the bolt catch due to my own clumsiness so trigger box will have to come out once the new one arrives, but other than that I’m quite pleased with it.

Any one have any experience with the Angry Gun Steel Bolt stop? https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/angry-gun-steel-cnc-bolt-stop-for-tokyo-marui-m4-mws-gbb---maritime-version I have unfortunately broken my stock part (entirely my fault) and I can't find an OEM one in stock in the UK. I know Angry Gun parts can be hit and miss (with more misses than hits), but how badly can they screw up a bit of shaped metal provided they too the measurements from an original part? If needs be I can fine tune it with a file I guess.

I must admit the 8" PDW route is probably the most appealing, as it actually has a purpose. I am already well over any site DMR limits with my 14" competition gun so I could just stick a LPVO on it and skirmish that. The only advantage on the 16" build would be avoiding the need to swap optics (not really a hardship) and avoiding wear on my competition gun, which is a more valid consideration. I also have to say that 8" build is very pretty, who did the paintwork? C

@Davegolf I think there is a picture earlier on the thread but always happy to repost a pic of the ladies... @gunbod007 How many were you carrying? I sometimes carry 13 (10 on plate carrier, 2 in belt and 1 in gun) and while heavy it’s not uncomfortable. Although I do normally carry less so I can lay flatter.

Ok so general question to the MWS hive mind, I currently own 3 MWS and I have them set up as follows: 1. Mk18 build 10.5 inch barrel - Full auto - regular skirmish gun shooting 350 fps. 2. Mk12 build 20 inch steel outer barrel (yes its bloody heavy) - Semi locked - shooting 500fps, (but usually have to down tune it with NPAS to 450/400 for site DMR limits). 3. 14.5 inch - competition gun - Semi locked - shooting 380 fps on 0.3g bbs used for 2/3 gun competition shooting where as long as it is legal highest FPS possible is an inherent advantage as we are only shooting targets, 14.5 inch barrel makes it very quick to transition between targets so perfect for 3 gun style shooting. I may have just acquired another MWS (it is actually an MTR and I plan to transplant the ambi receiver into my competition gun). So my question is what build should I do with this gun, given I will be using the regular mws receiver currently on my competition gun. Currently I am thinking either: (a) a 16" recce rifle build, or (b) a short barrelled PDW build (probably 8 inches), What do people think would be the best way to go that I would get the most use out of?

I have a couple of MWS with Maple Leaf hop rubbers in. I have always used the sealing ring with no issues. They can be a bit tight at first, but if you just leave the gun overnight with the nozzle in the hop the bed in nicely.

The hop is rubbish. The hop nub catches on the edge of the hop window cut in the inner barrel. It’s not too bad to fix. You can either file the hop nub thinner or extend the hop window on the inner barrel (or any combination of the two) or replace the inner barrel with one with a larger hop window (crazy jets are a good fit and have a larger hop window). At U.K. power the hop rubber is a bit hard. A maple leaf autobot 50degree fixes this nicely (note they need a longer hop window than the VSR standard so work best with a maple leaf barrel). An npas is a good idea to deal with U.K. weather variations otherwise it will be pants in the winter (mine is still decent even in winter on red gas) and won’t pass chrono in summer. The gun ships with the internals slathered in really heavy transport grease. This needs cleaning off and a lighter silicone oil applied other it really slows down the bolt cycling and ruins gas efficiency.

The Marui is clearly the better shooter, but the WE is pretty decent. It needs a bit of TLC at first. but once I got mine sorted and put a couple of thousand rounds through it to wear it in it has been totally reliable ever since. With 5 mags it is totally skirmishable for shorter games without having to carry a speed loader although I do want a couple more.

Just took delivery of a custom kydex holster with L2 retention for my FNX 45. It’s fitted on a safariland qls fork so I can quickly swap it out on my belt.

This isn’t the first thread on this, and I’ll try not to repeat everything I already said. The Marui is clearly a better shooter out of the box and has correct trademarks, but it is more expensive, has less parts support and is too small (this bothers some people more than others). The WE is cheaper and the correct size, there is an option to add trades at extra cost. It has decent aftermarket support. However it needs some work to shoot as well as the Marui. As a minimum the hop arm needs some filing and a new hop rubber is a good idea. Personally I have the WE and have been very happy with it once I did a few modifications.

The stock inner barrel is pretty good. The main reason to change is to go longer or tight bore (or both) to get more FPS. Note that some lesser quality tight bore barrels may bump FPS but at the cost of accuracy if the finish to the inner bore isn’t very uniform.

A lot of airsofters overlook rifle ergonomics in favour of more FPS or fancy sights when it’s an area where small changes can make a huge difference to your shooting. One of the big reasons all my GBB rifle builds use the same grip. I have found an angle that works for me so I use it all the time, nothing speeds target acquisition than having a rifle that naturally points where you are looking.

yes, the 416c kit is calling me. Not only is it a barrel length I don’t have, but the kit is so complete that it shouldn’t be too hard to complete using all aftermarket parts.

For my next project I want to build an MWS based HK416c using no TM parts, just after market bits. That one is going to have to wait a while though as it will be quite expensive.

My latest build, a very minimalist light weight build especially for 2/3 gun competition shooting. 14 inch barrel, light weight 14 inch m-lox rail, locked to semi, shooting about 430 fps. And a family photo with my mk12 DMR and my mk 18.

My cold weather backup is a can of Nuprol 4.0. The MWS runs brilliantly on black gas on stock internals in the cold. If it’s too cold for the MWS to work well on black gas then it’s too cold for me to want to play.....

It was a complete lower receiver only, as I already have a spare upper. I got a decent price. If you count what I paid for the upper when I bought it (minus the new rail etc I put on it) it was still a decent chunk cheeper than I could have bought a second hand MWS for. I thought about using epoxy but I’m too impatient to wait for it to dry properly so I spoke to a mate who specialises in welding aluminium and filled it with a spot of weld. Some careful grinding back with a dremel and it’s virtually invisible. I will reinstate the rotation pins as the damage to the upper has been done and this lower Is for my 2/3 gun competition rifle so it suits that civilian AR look, but I wouldn’t have bothered otherwise. It just reduces the resale value.

The anti rotation bolts I have require two holes to be drilled in the lower. Where the fake forward trigger box retaining pins are located. These fit two small studs in the front of the anti-rotation pins that stop them twisting. These need to be drilled very carefully preferably with a pillar drill and using a punch hole as a guide. With the trigger box removed just to be safe. The maniac that installed the ones I have clearly didn’t exercise proper care and made a real mess of drilling one side. To fix it I’m going to have to fill the crater he created and sand a refinish a bit of the receiver. given I can see absolutely no practical reason to fit them I can’t see why anyone would want to drill holes in their receiver just for a minor aesthetic change.

Personally I can’t say I have ever used one and all of my guns have seen plenty of red and black gas as well as green. Only upgrade I have made to the BGC is an npas to regulate FPS and I keep a couple of spare Nozzle return springs on hand as they can go (although they can last ages, it’s a bit of a lottery). I’d run it stock for a while and only install the upgrades if the OEM parts break.

I’m using the black MWS one. Most of my gun is stock internally my only internal upgrades are inner barrel, hop rubber, hop hub and npas and that’s it. I have a 450 FPS DMR as one of my MWS’ and in terms of performance the above list (with a long inner barrel) is all it took.

I’d recommend an npas to regulate performance variations based on temperature. Over the last summer (during the small window you could get a game) it was so hot green gas was running too hot to pass chrono. It is a bit of a pain to set up every game day, but much more precise and way cheaper than carrying multiple cans of gas. I will use 2.0 95%of the time and only switch to red/black gas if it is very chilly.

In all honesty I have no idea, I don’t thing I ever chronoed them before I fitted an npas.

My personal experience is that Abby Ultra is a bit weaker than Nuprol 2, but the MWS is pretty gas efficient so runs well on both. I prefer Nuprol 2, (or 3 or 4 in certain conditions), but it depends what you have available. I do have a couple of metal slide pistols that run like crap on Abby Ultra, but will chug away all day on Nuprol 2, hence my preference.

So I managed to pick up a mildly abused lower to match up with my spare upper so I will have 3 complete MWS in 10” 14” and 18” barrel lengths. My question to the collective is that this lower has had dummy anti-rotation latches fitted to it. (It is the absolute appalling manner that these were fitted in that is the cause of the abuse). Pretty sure I can fix the damage and refinish the lower to the point it will be invisible, but the original punch pin is missing. Having been replaced by the threaded rod for the latches. Any one have any experience with these? are they OK or should I make the effort to reinstate the original punch pin?