Cyberlawyer

All of my MWS have the brass hop nub, upgraded inner barrels of various lengths and n-pas valves fitted. Other than that it’s only the externals that have been upgraded. Red gas adds between 15 to 40 FPS compared to nuprol 2.0. depending on the ambient temperature at the time (higher temperature less difference) and the length of the inner barrel (longer inner barrels see a bigger increase). I really only use Red Gas to give the cycle back its snap when it gets a bit sluggish in the cold. I can adjust the n-pas to get to the desired FPS on regular Nuprol 2.0 on even the coldest days, but the bolt cycle can be pretty draggy when the temp gets pretty low.

I have run several MWS’ on Nuprol 3.0 when it gets a bit chilly. In all cases they have run great with no apparent damage. In my experience it really puts the snap back in the cycle when regular green gas starts to get a bit sluggish as the temperature drops.

I’d add a well chosen barrel and an n-pas to that list. True a barrel can go both ways, but a good one is basically just free extra FPS and the n-pas is a virtual necessity to manage FPS given the wild swings in temp in the U.K.

It is very unfair (and not very informative) to use a broken bb to test uniformity of shape. Any force capable of breaking a BB (particularly shearing it like the one in the picture) is more than capable of causing that deformation. You really need to test on a new unfired BB as even impacts that don’t break a BB are more than capable of causing deformation, which is the main reason it’s never recommend to reuse fired BBs.

What is getting cut up? You putting one of the KWAs into that white Krytac again?

Thought I’d post a pic of my latest MWS build. Going for more of a competition 3 gun vibe to complement my current Mk18 build (with additional mk12 upper). Its still a work in progress, I need to source an m-loc angled fore grip and a more modern less angled pistol grip. I also need a more modern looking site. Thinking of a vortex UH-1 but everywhere is out of stock at the moment as they are waiting for the gen 2 to come into stock.

Airsoft Plantation is a very well run site and I have always had a good time there (I am fortunate that it is very local to me). The only downside is if it is raining some bits do get very swampy pretty quickly. Personally not a problem for me on a game day, but some folks do get a bit grumpy when they come back caked in mud, and it does make the post event clean down a bit of a ball ache. This is by no means a unique problem and would be true of any Woodland site with hereby ground water (AP is next to a fishing lake). Let’s be honest it has to be pretty decent if the weather is the biggest problem.

Anyone have a good recommendation for a 13.5 inch m-lok Rail that fits the MWS? Ideally one that’s in stock....

Glad it helped. It isn’t an original idea I got it from somewhere, but I can’t think where. Might even be somewhere earlier in the 130 odd pages of this thread....

I can’t help on the torch as I have never used one, but the stock wobble can be addressed quite easily and cheaply. All I did was attach a strip of the fuzzy side of the Velcro to the top of the buffer tube. It just takes up the space eliminating the wobble, but allowing the stock to move freely. You can tune how stiff you want it by how wide you make the strip. Start at somewhere about 1 cm wide and try it. If it’s too stiff make the strip narrower if it’s too loose make it a bit wider. After a bit of trial and error you will find the sweet spot for you. You only need the strip to go from the last adjustment point to the end of the buffer tube so it shouldn’t ever be visible even with the stock fully extended.

I’d be willing to bet quite a lot on that being a Chinese copy. The big clue for me is the airsoft (Tokyo Marui) Spec mounting plate.

Another one!!!!! Or is that a revamp of an existing one.

Other capacities were available although these were probably the most common. When I first started big batteries went as low as 1100mah. I think they got as far as 2500 before NiMH took over. We used to make our own nunchuck batteries by splitting the mini battery packs and re-soldering and shrink wrapping them. (A trick we borrowed from racing RC cars). That way they would (just with a bit of shaving things) fit the battery in an M4 handguard either side of the barrel so we could still run a Standard M4 stock without a fake PEQ box. Watching someone trying to change them was comedy gold though.

I started around ‘98’. Back then we were all running Marui AEGs and the standard practice was to upgrade to 328 FPS. The Marui ARs were the dogs danglies, but were about £400 - £500 and had polymer bodies (with wobbly front ends). We were all still running ni-cad batteries so fixed stocks were quite common as it meant you could get a battery to last until lunch time. Nunchuck or stick batteries were only good for a few hours. I remember when ICS and Classic Army first came out with affordable metal bodied MP5s which were a real game changer and the excitement when the first 2000mah Ni-cads came out which meant a battery would Reliably last all day (If you had a big stock to put it in).

Your rig is a very personal thing, even in the army where your kit is issued and you have SOPs as to where things should go there is a lot of personal variation. For Airsoft I subscribe to the view that you shouldn’t carry more than you need, but even this varies depending on the type of games you play and personal preference. Personally I agree a good belt setup should be the start. This should carry pistol a couple of mags for both pistol and primary and in my case a smoke pouch and functioning first aid kit. I then run a plate carrier with more mags for my primary, a radio pouch, admin pouch and a hydration bladder which can also carry a waterproof or bit of warm kit if the weather demands it. While this sounds pretty minimalist I carry a lot of mags, as I run a GBBR with 30ish round mags and hate carrying speed loaders as they rattle like a bag of nails.

Well this just arrived for me. WE MP7 A1 (New Wave Small Rice if you want to be picky). Sure it has a few areas for improvement, but that’s just a good excuse to tinker. I know the consensus is the TM is a better SMG, but the Marui really didn’t interest me due to not being full size it’s also considerably more expensive. Second pic is a WE G17 with a compensator just for scale.

Well everyone’s purchases are way more exciting than mine. This weeks purchases have been limited to a new hop rubber and a can of tan Krylon spray paint. On the upside this will give me something to do over the bank holiday weekend, but nowhere near as much fun as the posts above.

If you are super impatient then this is a reasonable interim stand in for a couple of quid. The brass one is better though so I’d still swap it out eventually. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airsoft-Pro-Stability-H-Nub-Softair/dp/B07SQFBK66/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hop+nub&qid=1589243676&sr=8-3

Standard hop with the brass nub seems to be the consensus choice. Having tried a few I haven’t had anything that performs better.

Those findings are very interesting. I have no way of doing any controlled testing at measured ranges beyond about 55-60m (I use 50m as a nice standard range, makes some of the maths I do easier). During lockdown it’s more like 20m 😭. I’d say I can get a good clean torso hit out to well beyond 75m, but I have no means to verify or test with multiple barrels as I’m usually at a skirmish. I may have to invest in a range finder then at least I can accurately verify shot distance at skirmishes (I assume walking towards someone you have just shot with a surveyors tape measure would not go down well 🤪).

They are VSR cut, but some fit better than others as the specification varies between suppliers. I have found Maple Leaf Crazy Jets to be a good fit.

I am interested in why this is believed to be the case. I have had 250, 370 and 455 mm barrels (all Maple leaf Crazy Jets if it makes a difference) in my MWS at various points and still have each of these barrels in a GBBR (the 370 is in a WE 416) and at the same FPS (350) I couldn’t tell any meaningful difference in accuracy at 10, 25 or 50m (for me this was the most compelling argument for my MK18 build as there was no performance detriment to the shorter barrel). As far as I am aware assuming the barrels are true with minimal imperfections barrel length shouldn’t make any difference provided it is long enough for the BB to stabilise in the air flow. The only difference I am aware of is longer barrels will produce increased FPS provided there is sufficient gas volume released.

I have a Mk12 upper (With it’s own BGC) for my MWS set up as a DMR. Currently firing bang on 315 FPS on a .4g bb (318 FPS on a .4g bb is equivalent to 450 on a .2g bb). I didn’t upgrade much as far as the internals go to get the power and accuracy my list was: - SixG Brass nub (so I can hop heavy BBs) - npas valve (so I can tune the FPS, it goes higher as well as lower than stock). - Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 455mm VSR Cut Barrel. That’s it in terms of internals. In terms of externals you will need either a silencer or an 18inch outer barrel to cover that inner barrel (I was always going to do a MK12 upper so just chose the longest inner barrel that would fit in the 18” outer). other than that everything else (sights, bipeds etc.) is optional. There are other ways to go (e.g tighter bore barrel will get more FPS, so won’t need to be as long), but this was very cost effective and has been super reliable as I’m not messing with spring tensions or other stuff that could impact reliability. As an aside I have found the stock TM hop rubber to be the best balance of performance and durability. There are hops that perform better (some of the maple leaf buckings and the modify tan spring to mind), but I have found they don’t last that long at DMR FPS. Edit: just to add there are still a few turns left on the npas so I could go higher FPS. Second Edit: I also permanently modified the safety/selector switch to semi only (needed to comply with U.K. law). There is a YouTube video on how to do this.

I bought this as a two-tone that hadn’t been fired in 2 years so got it for a good price. After a bit of blue paint removal and a strip down and refurb I ended up with this WE416 GBBR.

Buy a bottle of Nuprol 2.0. If it fills properly with that (Mine always have) then you know It’s a problem with the adapter or the propane bottle.