emilianoksa

Detonator do a slide and barrel kit, but it costs a bomb (no pun intended), and you would probably have to import it from the Far East at even more expense. Presumably you would then need some stronger internals - springs, nozzles, recoil rod and spring, etc. and I haven't seen anything available in that line. Best to keep it as is and use it as intended with 144a. Even with a plastic slide and low power gas, It will outclass almost all metal guns with higher velocities. It will last much longer too.

Thanks for confirming. And yes I would consider a heavier trigger an improvement.

Thanks to you both. The G17 Gen 4, G19 Gen 3 and 4 have a larger ring to fit over the separate frame pin that TM puts in its latest Glocks. Thanks for the offer Mr. Dogbert, but my spring has been stretched and so I cannot get an accurate measurement off it. I have decided to go along with Mr. Magnon's suggestion re. the Guarder spring kit. I cannot imagine that TM produced different springs for each of their later Glocks which have the additional pin through the frame. They builds to a standard so they are more likely to use the same of the same parts in each model of a pistol.

I managed to damage mine when transferring the frame internals of my G19 into a Guarder frame. I have tried just about every online store including those in the Far East to get a replacement - either TM original or custom - with no success. Could anyone tell me if the regular TM trigger bar spring for the G17,22,34 can be stretched to fit the G19, or if the Glock 17 Gen 4 spring from TM or Guarder will do the job? Would fitting a stronger spring (150%) like the Guarder Glock 17 Gen 4 spring, create problems in a stock TM Glock? Would I need to replace other parts eg. the trigger bar itself , with upgraded ones?

Thanks Jim. How hard was it to fit?

Very nice. Is that a TM 1st generation model or the later one?

Thanks. Are they toxic only when wet, harmless when dry?

When removing and reinstalling pins with a punch to replace parts or to fix things, the black frame pins tend to lose their finish and get shiny at both ends where they are visible. For me they ruin the appearance of the gun. Can anyone suggest the best way to tart them up a bit at each end ie. blacken them, or better still make them go a dull grey. I have been considering the following: Giving them a coat of paint or ink from a permanent Sharpie. Dipping them in white vinegar and water to give them a black oxide coating. Some of my pins are stainless and some not. This should be OK with the non stainless, but I have heard that, given long enough, even the stainless ones will turn a dull grey if left long enough. I would appreciate any advice you could give me.

Could somebody please tell me what these are made of: alloy (pot metal) , mild steel, hardened steel or stainless steel. I need to order some replacements and have measured the originals. I have been able to source replacements jof the correct size from a UK engineering firm. I would prefer the stainless steel but wondered if these would cause excessive wear when going through holes in pot metal internal parts, the trigger ring, front chassis and hammer unit. I magine mild steel might be better. Or does it not much matter?

Very kind of you. I'll bear that in mind.

Thanks. I looked at Impulse but they didn't have the parts I want.

I have fitted three Guarder frames to three Marui Glocks - a 22, 34 and 17 Gen4. Two were fine and one needed quite a bit of sanding. The fourth ( 19 Gen 3) has been an absolute ball ache. The holes were badly aligned and I managed to screw up two out of the three chassis pins. The top of the frame was all over the place. I tried to sand it flat and thought I had suceeded but the slide jammed and it took me an hour to get it off with a plastic mallet, ripping up the base of the outer barrel in the process and losing a slide stop spring I will probably never find. In fairness I should point out that the Marui top pin on the 17 Gen 4 (the one that secures the trigger screw) was also a bugger to drive out. Turns out it had nasty spiral tool marks on it. So it isn't just Guarder. It has become extremely difficult to source Marui parts. Even Eagle Six is not particularly well stocked these days. Even some big Far Eastern shops have shortages. Is it possible to get replacement parts direct from Marui if you are outside Japan? I imagine not. I am considering measuring my buggered up chassis pins with calipers and sourcing dowel pins from a UK engineering firm. Has anyone else ever done this? I imagine the TM ones are made of steel. In future I will stick with TM frames even though the ABS gets shiny in no time. I had been considering a Guarder CNC slide and barrel set but after my experience of their quality control I am now reluctant to risk it.

Should imagine the only difference between the gen3 and gen 4 variants would be the grip patterns, and the larger mag release button and additional backstraps of the gen4. The production dates between the two versions was small by normal marui standards, and both have the new bbu which makes me think the changes are cosmetic only. Compare parts diagrams online. If the gen4 outer barrel has the same parts number as the gen 3 outer barrel they will be the same. Or ask a retailer.

Thanks for the very useful information.

Thanks. My main concerns would be reliability (GHK quality control has come in for major criticism in recent years) and parts availability. I also have misgivings about the mag design with the gas intake valve set in a screwed on base. And they are very expensive to replace if you can't fix them. I noted that Roketdogbert was quick to move his on, which was not a good sign. Only time will tell how they bear up, and you are probably right to say I should wait and see. I would have to sell a couple of very nice TMs to help finance the purchase a d might very well regret it.

Thanks for the tip.

I know if is expensive and has mixed reviews but I have been considering buying one. £370 seems a lot but a TM Glock with custom frame slide and outer barrel would cost more. The trigger is heavy but so is the real firearm's trigger at about 5 lb. I know because I once lived a road and owned one. Airsoft pistol triggers are generally very light and better for skirmishing with. However I never skirmish pistols.

Nice. What slide is that? Did you keep the original outer barrel?

Thanks a lot. Very useful information.

Thanks for posting that. I did quite a bit of googling, but didn't come across that chart. It will be very useful.

I know that modern polymers can probably deal with the sort of temperatures they produce. But what if we are talking about a TM Glock with an ABS frame?

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I just wanted go check if the internals on the gen4 are disassembled in the same way and order as the gen4.

Thanks.

I haven't noticed much difference between the Nuprol in the green can and that in the red can. I know some people mistakenly refer to it as red gas, but it is just green gas with a slightly higher psi for use in colder weather. Does it really work as intended, or is it just a marketing thing? I have found it difficult to appreciate any real difference between the green can and the red. Does anybody know that the psi is supposed to be, and what the psi is of the Nuprol 2.o?

I have a cheap Chinese clone of an x300. I have never used it for skirmishing. In fact I have only ever used it as a torch for finding things like springs and other little bits that have ended up flying away and disappearing on the floor. So it has been used for a minute or two for that purpose, and I have noticed that it gets pretty hot. Is this normal, or is it only the cheap clones that behave this way? If I were skirmishing with it attached to a pistol I would only turn it on for a few seconds before making a shot. For short periods it wouldn't heat up, but what about for longer? It isn't going to burn me or anything, but most of my pistols have plastic frames, and I am wondering if it will damage them.