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Skara

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Everything posted by Skara

  1. Dude the whole system is called CPSB. There is a full co2 cylinder kit, a couple of cylinders, two pistons and at least two full bolts under that name. Do you have a link or a product code we can look up? Regarding your issue, it is typical of a fucked up hop (arm not applying constant pressure, tensioner being loose or rubber being shanked), although if you say it worked fine before installing the new cylinder head we can rule that out. Could be the "upgraded" cylinder head being too long, pushing the bb past the contact patch, which would explain the lack of backspin. What's the issue with your previous cylinder and sear?
  2. Well, what cylinder kit is that? Because Ares cylinders are shit at best, maybe the new cylinder head does some funny stuff inside the AA chamber.
  3. Still no recoil/GBB mp5. What the fuck TM?
  4. Some (in my club) need a bit of incentive, easily fixed by holding the trigger for 1-2 more seconds than required. Tournaments, though, are a shit show. We had an episode at the national finals (where marshals should be absolutely spot on) where we (8 people) magdumped a guy running away, he called fuck all and kept playing lol. At the end of the game he looked like he got blasted by a point blank 12g birdshot. I'm not a dick though, and I run my guns at 20 rps ish and tend to do short bursts unless I'm providing cover for my teammates. But I'd take a wanker hose gun any day of the week at a tournament. /rant Back on topic, I'm happy with my 1J blanket limit and no MED, removes any kind of argument about BaNg bAnG/mercy/surrender.. Sucks for us snipers because we only have a marginal edge on range (good hop, heavy bbs) over regular AEG users who usually spam .2s, so a slightly higher limit for semi locked DMRs/Bolt actions wouldn't hurt too much, say 1.3/1.5J limit, still in the realm of no MED (it's not like you're using them in CQB anyway, plus it's one/two bbs tops coming your way, not 50) but at the same time allows us to stay "safe" further away from the action. But knowing how things go here, it'd probably end up in another shitshow of people running full auto 1.5J guns blasting others at point blank in the face.
  5. Come to Italy and you'll realise how useful a wanker gun can be...
  6. mhm....

    Dboys PDW?

    yay or nay?

    1. Asomodai

      Asomodai

      Highly rated for the money from what I understand. 

       

       

    2. Skara

      Skara

      Hold on I'm gonna post a thread :)

  7. Since it's an Ares gun, I'd sort the airseal asap, along with a better piston and bushings (stock piston tends to explode at the pickup tooth level and the bushings are way too soft). Check the tappet plate while you're at it, as it's pretty poor quality. Cylinder may need porting and the cylinder head is fine, as long as you lube/replace the o-ring (please, no PTFE tape). Give the gearbox shell a radius because they're reported to crack easily (they're a wee bit thinner than regular shells for some reason). Then, take the hop rubber and throw it as far away as possible because it's shit, replace it with a Prometheus Purple. The stock hop chamber is good (imo) but the arm has an integrated tensioner which is a bit meh. Works fine with standard rubbers but it's an absolute cunt if you want to flat hop/install a maple leaf. I have a flat hopped Prommy Purple and had to mod the flat tensioner to make it fit, I can show you what I've done if you want. Nozzle should be plastic and not metal, much less that can go wrong with it, and it won't shred your hop rubber apart if something's not 100% aligned. The barrel is fine, it's an alu 6.03, not great, not terrible, does the job. Give it a good clean. Gears are fine, if you want to replace them, do it, but remember to slap a magnet on the sector gear because that's how the EFCS detects the cycling. Motor, do whatever you want, I'm still using the stock motor in my AM013 but it's slowly giving up (it's 5 years old), in any case go for a good high torque.
  8. Instead of playing and cursing people for not calling hits, I decided to do some teching today.

    The point was to install a Warfet and replace the hop rubber on the AK.

    Did the absolute worst solder/routing job ever done, the hop C-Clip snapped in half and I've glued it back together, the box is not really aligned with the hop chamber.

     

    If Luke saw what I have done to this gun, he'd beat me to death with a stick dipped in horse shit.

     

    When it shits itself it's gonna go to a really good Italian tech.

    1. Show previous comments  7 more
    2. Skara

      Skara

      And btw, I have precocking turned off, but warfet gives no shit and precocks anyway 😕

    3. Adolf Hamster

      Adolf Hamster

      sure it's not just natural overrun? see if turning on/off ab has any effect.

       

      lateral play is a tricky one, i have occasionally used grub screws to reduce the wiggle room.

    4. Skara

      Skara

      Haven't noticed any extra part laying around when I reassembled. Will gib a check later.

       

      For the precocking, meh, no idea. It did overspin a little when I got it, but now it's consistently precocking (will reset the warfet as well and fuck around with the settings)

  9. My mates think I'm stupid for running .28s up to .4s, but then I pull a MC Hammer and this starts playing in my mind
  10. Back when G&P was supposed to be the dog's balls? and when a basic TM was all everyone needed but "ReEeEeE TM EcSpEnSiV"? When you brought a 7.4 LiPo to the game and suddenly you got all the bitches around you and other players were calling you a madman because "holy shit it's so powerful!!"? When the most advanced mosfet was a homebuilt 3034? Don't need to go back 20 years, 10 are more than enough lol
  11. Fuck me and when I get paid. 1x SHS V2 anti reversal latch 1x A-Tacs FG mask (gotta be tacticool even at work) 1x GATE Warfet 1x SHS V2 switch assembly 1x SHS V3 switch assembly 1x Motor plugs 1x lithium grease (2 types, specific to cylinder/piston and gears) 1x Deans plugs 1x 13x16x115mm 7.4v 1450 mAh Li-Po (now, thing has more capacity than the 7.4 I own despite being smaller, the fuq??) 1x Bag of Specna Edge 0.28s
  12. 0.7J arp9.

    0.28g specna edge BBs.

    Maple Leaf MR hop.

    Easy 60 metres.

     

    Can't wait to see the results once I fix the air seal.

    1. Show previous comments  11 more
    2. Skara

      Skara

      @Lozart

      Well, I have tested it in anger on Sunday, although without fixing the air seal.

      Managed to reach people at 60 metres (measured) while pulling a MC Hammer on them.

       

      Spread seemed almost non existent up to 45/50 metres, but I will have to confirm it with a proper shooting test (might record it and post it somewhere next sunday).

       

      Feeding is fine, somehow. My ARP never fed flawlessly for some reason.

      Overall impressed so far.

    3. Lozart

      Lozart

      @Skara nice. Omega nub I gues?

    4. Skara

      Skara

      @Lozart yes, along with a shim between the nub and the arm, because without it (regardless of the rubber and tensioner used), the chamber gives barely enough pressure to lift 0.23s.

      Could be me missing something, as it's a modification I HAVE do to all my guns bar GBBs..

  13. Skara

    Gamble

    It's a clever little thing that anyone can make and vastly improve his loadout's concealment properties, thanks for sharing! A bit of an old school method as nowadays people can just use molle loops to the same effect, but it's something anyone can craft on the field, given they have some twine/elastic bands/zip ties (everyone should have at least 2 of these 3 things when playing). On a side note, I was watching a documentary on Vietnam's resistance to the Mongolian invasions in the 12th century and it mentioned a guerrilla manual wrote by one of Vietnam's finest generals at the time. Doc also mentioned that said manual has been used during the more recent Indochina/Vietnam war (successfully, judging by the current name of Saigon), so this ring's design could be much older than the first ghillies! Edit: it appears that this manual is still being conserved in one of the Vietnam's government buildings, ready to be used again shall the need arise. At the time of the Mongolian invasions, this general made a copy for each citizen, it's also full of schematics and drawings for those who couldn't read. That is some serious prepper shit if you ask me
  14. Of course, given you replace the arm with a gunsmithy one
  15. Smol noob teching question:

    If I increase the cylinder volume (from a type A with the hole in the middle cylinder to a C with the hole 3/4 of the way) do I risk any PME? gun has a quite high rof in the mid/high 20s.

    Everything else would stay the exact same.

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. Skara

      Skara

      P_20200702_205046_vHDR_Auto_1.jpg

       

      Blue cylinder is the stock one, the brass comes from my old ICS M4..

    3. Sitting Duck

      Sitting Duck

      Brass one is say 48mm to front of cylinder

      Blue is about 45mm to front of cylinder

       

      either would do - not much in it tbh

       

      When you lost say 25fps/0.2j (depending on bb used)

      that could have been from refitting bucking/barrel

      or in a new hop/barrel setup

      or

      the bucking refitted to longer barrel that may not have sealed so perfectly

       

      Coz a longer barrel would lean to more creep not less

      So I'm a little surprised it drop a bit, should have crept up slightly

      which I wonder if the new barrel/hop was fitted 101% perfectly

      or a new hop/rubber/nub installed made the difference over original

       

      in other words - if fitted correctly or a new bucking/refitting made a less effective seal or either a bit of dirt/grease ensured a bit more hop required to lift bb and that was where the drop took place

      coz all things being equal you should have gained say 0.1j perhaps

       

      The blue G&G cylinder is slung in most G&G's up to say 333mm barrel

      and I'd lay money the spring is a m110 (360fps) or just over to make a firehawk type barrel hit 320fps with a 140mm barrel

       

      by all means test/try the other cylinder but something changed when barrel/hop got refitted imho

      also if open it up - check compression coz G&G's on some piston heads produce a below par seal, so get good compression with what cylinder seems to seal best on piston, with a decent o-ring etc....

       

      But reckon the refitting of barrel & bucking especially did not go so perfectly and thus you lost power is a possible thing to investigate

       

      or hop unit is sloppy and shifts forward at times losing seal

      so ensure spring on hop unit to push it back to seal, if the mag tries to shift it away from box when inserted

       

      something ain't right & whatever it is up with hop/bucking

      THAT is what might have caused the drop

    4. Skara

      Skara

      Thanks for the reply.

       

      I indeed expected an increase in muzzle energy with the longer barrel.

      I have already changed the piston head o-ring as the stock one was crap (all mangled and no matter what I did, it would not seal), the hop rubber was a prometheus purple that got replaced with a prometheus blue (flat) and then back to purple because the blue went in another gun.

      Now I have a ML MR-Hop AEG rubber with its Omega tensioner, which is noticeably softer than the two prommy rubbers I had previously. Now, when I had the stock 130mm inner, both prommies gave perfect air seal and consistent readings of 0.98/0.99 Joules, compared to the stock G&G blue rubber that had readings all over the place (same thing happened with the G&G green, chrono looked like it was on LSD).

       

      I am pretty sure I have installed the hop/barrel correctly and the spring that pushes the unit against the gearbox is fairly strong (it's the kind that slides over the barrel). Mags are very consistent due to their AK style locking mechanism and overall tight magwell, if they push the hop away from the box they do it in a very consistent way as well, because the readings are pretty much +- 0.6 m/s

       

      I'll chrono with the new rubber tomorrow and see if it has changed anything, then I'll open it up and mess around with the air seal again.

       

      Worst case it'll be a new piston head + o-ring and a softer spring to compensate for the energy output increase.

  16. How does one not die in 30° weather? :(

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. Jedi_Master

      Jedi_Master

      When it is 30 degrees C at night you get used to it, relishing the coolness from the daytime temperature.

    3. Impulse

      Impulse

      When I used to airsoft in Spain, I'd usually wear nothing more than a pair of trousers, belt kit and a lightweight t-shirt or one of those nice 5.11 lightweight short sleeved shirts.

       

      But yeah, as has also been said... Water is key. Drink absolutely loads of it.

    4. Sneaky

      Sneaky

      Be a cool customer under the line of fire of bb's......oh and water!

  17. F Shimming takes some time, as for the selector, no clue
  18. I mean, the last time I used my binary trigger people were complaining about "full auto", in a OC fashion Also people will always bitch about something, whether it's the energy output, the rate of fire or the fact that you managed to sneak past their ego and gently tapped them on the shoulder with your barrel.
  19. You're only missing one thing now. B I N A R Y T R I G G E R ! for max meme potential and for that one guy who's too cool to die
  20. The more I take this gun apart to clean/change parts, the more I wish I bought a VSR. My ML decepticon got literally chewed to shit by the nozzle, feed lips resemble a well used vagina now 😕 fun fact: the hop had less than 200 rounds put through it. Plus it was a complete bitch to reassemble the hop unit, once again.
  21. Yeah I knew about it I guess it's just a little easter egg manufacturers put into their FCUs
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