Tommikka

Any item sent across international boundaries requires a customs declaration - so the sender must make a declaration When it arrives at the border that existing declaration might suffice, but the recipient is the responsible party on any imported goods. Its most likely that the recipient will be required to complete a declaration - even if it is just verifying the senders declaration Two key areas are covered: 1). Is the import allowed? This covers whether the item is illegal / legal and also whether there are any qualifying requirements of the recipient (eg is it a U.K. legal RIF and does the recipient have a VCRA Defence ?) 2) Is there a tax/duty/fee to be paid for ? Sometimes the sender handles payment of tax/duty/fees and supply paperwork with the declaration (You ought to already know this service is being provided at the point of sale - if not then the default is that you are liable as the importer Sometimes a ‘handling agent’ acts as middle man I had that last year with some custom gear, it was designed and manufactured overseas, sent to their U.K. rep, and I was contacted by him with the bill (Rather than being a true agent on import, it was more of him acting as a U.K. retailer selling my custom gear to me after I had dealt with the overseas design house) Provide your UKARA details in the notes, plus in your delivery address and assume that you will need to fill in a declaration confirming the import plus a bill for 20% UK VAT and handling fees

I assume you were wearing rental goggles? These are much more likely to fog up because they have been worn funny hundreds of people before (unless in the post covid era you were lucky enough to be at a site that has opted to use fresh goggles per rental player) Any manufacturer anti-fog coating on a lens is degraded as soon as any form of product (other than minimal water) is used to clean a lens. Rental / old lenses will gradually lose some of their anti fog capabilities over time, and as the lens gets cleaned. There are after market anti fog products such as cat crap which help, but they should be avoided on new lenses as long as possible to make the best of the manufacturers coating - but that doesn’t work for everyone and an individual may need anti fog help from the beginning More important than the manufacturers antifog or after market anti fog is air flow which minimises the work for the anti fog coating i4s are seen as the recommended goggle, but other premium goggles are available. Dyes tend to be smaller goggles, which is attractive to airsofters, and also due to the smaller goggle there is more airflow from the lack of goggle surface area. A key benefit shared with other premium goggles is the rubber material, so if the chin would get in the way of you aiming you can lean in and it bends away from your guns stock etc Everything is personal though, and the ideal is to try on a few options of different full face goggles to fit your personal head size and shape, part face goggles accompanied by a mesh guard etc, or minimising down to glasses and a scarf etc (Remembering that scarves give zero air flow, so may be making a fresh problem) If you can then visit an airsoft or paintball retailer (noting that most stock supplies for both) and try on goggles

You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman https://youtu.be/3LkGRxjWQ_c?si=MvpdhQwV0nyFGLpz

correct Correct The cylinder pressure of 3000psi is your high end Its fitted output regulator is probably running somewhere between 800psi and 650psi (when moving from CO2 to HPA in paintball 800-850psi roughly replicated the gaseous state of CO2, but as time has moved on the need has dropped for most - we tend to have an inline regulator fitted within our paintball guns Your inline airsoft regulator then does the reduction to the low 100s for your operating pressure, which could be called low pressure Strictly though it’s all high pressure air, and should be given respect all the way through the system but 500/400 psi might get called mid pressure

** has a quick nostalgia moment about when I used to have moderator privileges on a couple of forums and could see full edit histories ….. including deleted posts You are embarrassed that you were on a paintball site weren’t you ?!?!???

They have made half of the argument for you, but they may also be right that joule creep on their DMR & auto limits are negligible in comparison to their The argument is not to ‘test in joules’, but to test at the appropriate weight. They may have already tested alternative weights and found that heavier BBs in ‘most general’ airsoft guns is negligible enough that the resultant joules are higher but within their acceptable limits. Theres half an argument that a sniper player could put more effort into precisely fine tuning their RIF, though other players could be fine tuning ‘normal’ RIFs. An argument remains that a sniper barrel would be longer which enables more acceleration along the barrel and could max out the imparted energy, in a ‘decent straight’ / ‘less friction’ barrel which then benefits from joule creep in gaining energy but not losing as much drag. Making it more of an unknown, so they are less content with the ease of allowing some creep flexibility on the basis that it could be more than negligible Real life testing is required to prove / disprove Full auto aeg limit 350 fps .2g bb = 1.138j 374 fps .2g = 1.299j DMR limit 450 fps .2g bb = 1.88j 499.9 fps .2g = 2.32j If a 350fps .2 then fired a .43 without losing velocity then 350 fps .43 = 2.4468j But the unknown factor of joule creep is that the energy imparted in the chamber isn’t directly compensated with a slower velocity directly in line with the greater mass I’m reading it that they chrono test most on 0.2 as a standard, but then for snipers adjust the chrono weight setting to test with the actual playing weight This adds time to test every player at whichever weight (assuming the player knows and is honest)

….. Just get into vintage 1:1 model making

Joy

Importing is such fun Cost wise take into account the full purchase cost plus postage, and allow for variable currency exchange rates depending on whether or not they charge an international £ price or your bank/card issuer converts - and the timing that they use to charge the conversion Those are the easy bits If you are very lucky the overseas retailer will be registered for UK VAT to cover UK sales over £135 and they annotate declarations appropriately - therefore customs treat it as if you bought in the UK But this costs them money and probably isn’t worth the effort. So add on 20%, but not necessarily to the declared sale + postage total converted at ‘todays’ rates on arrival. Packages may get reassessed to a UK equivalent price and VAT charged on that You shouldn’t get actual customs charges - but check the gov.uk website for the latest on item categories As the border handling carrier will be dealing with the assessment they will add their carrier handling fee. This could be a fixed price across a range of amounts depending on carrier, or it could be a percentage charge against the assessed value Add all those together, plus time and worry whilst watching tracking status and you will most likely be in the ballpark of a UK retail price (or more) ……… If what you want is not listed in the UK then start by calling some retailers and they may import on your behalf via their suppliers, commercial importing also comes at a cost but handled at a greater scale and they would be paying trade prices. A special import on your behalf may cost more than an equivalent UK retail item, but it comes with more peace of mind plus their risk. This also supports UK retail and gives you a point of contact for any issues ……. If you’re looking to save on UK retail then you often don’t really save anything or a much smaller amount saved than expected …….. Sometimes though it’s a matter of getting that special thing that isn’t available in the UK, or to be first to get it - but sometimes trying to be first ends up being last when it’s sat in a depot awaiting document clearance (Last year I spent $295 plus almost £60 in charges(£45.73 import VAT, £12 handling) with 3 weeks in transit / handling …. And picked it up at the depot on the way to the event I wanted to use it at, only just beating it being released for delivery.) * I used it twice last year and will be using it twice this year - £300 plus some worry so that I could ‘be that guy’ with the unique niche product There is also another elephant in the room - will it arrive to UK spec, and will it get identified as over powered at customs ? * little correction that I just remembered. I didn’t ‘beat’ the release for delivery, I was watching the tracking status wondering if it would clear in time for onward delivery - which it didn’t, and was in fairly regular contact with the help desk including clarifying if it would stay in situ once the final charge was calculated or get forwarded to my local sorting office. It was cleared on the evening before / morning of the day that I was leaving and a minor diversion on my route so I managed to pay and collect in person at Basingstoke on my way from Salisbury to London

What he said. Zero in your sights at the range that you expect to shoot. Then practice shooting targets that are nearer and further away so that you know how to adjust aim Alternatively practice shooting at a few ranges. See what appears to be a ‘long’ distance at which you can consistently hit within a fair but wide grouping (eg half the size of a human beings chest) and consider that to be the furthest that you would use your sights. Next pick out a closer distance at which you would look into the sights (not so close that you can just point and shoot) Pick a middling distance (not exactly the centre of both of those ranges - you are going to attempt to set your zero at the mid point of the sight between your short and long distances. To pick what that middle distance is shoot at your long distance and your short distance. Read the sight markings to check how many dots/dashes there are between them. Adjust the sights so that they are either the most apart on your sight, or preferably not quite the most apart (which allows you some more visual adjustment when in game) Then aim for the centre marking of the sight and position yourself / your target going a little closer / further away until you get your optimum grouping on that centre mark. That is then your zeroing distance and you have worked out how you expect that you should adjust aim for different distances

Fenton! AKA, potential Boston Dynamics robo dog spotted in Ukraine … and the original source … https://x.com/astraiaintel/status/1819985311855763600

“All in” means postage and fees are included Its laziness on the sellers side to ask buyers to work out what to pay, plus it can mean that the seller receives less than expected when a buyer adds on the PayPal percentage without realising that the rate has to be reverse engineered from the total including fees If a buyer pays the asking price of £210 you would receive £203.61 If you want to receive £210 then ask for £216.58 Alternatively round the asking price up or down https://www.clothnappytree.com/ppcalculator/

….: and some of mine In the order of dead, nearly dead and their baby Dead had a final of 2019/09 Nearly dead has a final of 2025/01 but is out of test so I’ve sacrificed it as not worth testing for the number of games planned Their new baby awaits a new regulator (I was half considering a regulator transplantation but have opted for brand new giving me the benefit of fresh lightweight, customisable output, and peace of mind that burst disks won’t be giving up the goat)

That does look similar-ish to a 5/8” DIN fitting, but DIN fill rigs don’t have that nipple. A word with your supplier is the best option

This sort of thing is used as a fill rig for scuba to paintball / airsoft cylinders https://www.bzpaintball.co.uk/hk-army-a-clamp-yolk-fill-station-blue It does of course depend on what type of fitting you have on your nitrogen cylinders. If you come from a regulated output then your maximum fill will be the maximum you can get. That may be fine for testing provided you can draw off more than your airsoft output pressure requirement , but to get the most from your cylinder you need 3000psi / 232bar As you have a 300bar cylinder that’s 4500psi, which means you should regulate your fill rig to 3000psi, but provided you slow fill and watch the gauges it’s viable to fill into 3000psi from a 4500psi source (it is of course best practice to regulate at the appropriate level) This uses a site type fill station but the principles are the same. If filling from low or empty then fill a little, stop and pause, fill a little more and repeat. That ensures it’s nice and slow and reduces heat generation If you fast fill from empty then not only are you increasing the risk of overfilling but gas expands when hot - when it cools the pressure will drop which means a fast hot fill ends up with less of a fill

That’s good for HPA and / or nitrogen Yep. The optimum is to fill on site with a ‘proper’ high pressure, filtered & maintained compressor which runs into the thousands of £ Cheaper compressors are available now (not workshop ones) can do the job these days without killing you, there are also Your plan to use existing nitrogen facilities is a fair one Viable alternatives for those who need their own fill system are typically a scuba cylinder rig or a ‘shoebox compressor’ which takes input from a workshop type compressor then boosts up to 3000psi etc - but that is slow & noisy A compromise is a high pressure stirrup pump - relatively cheap (ensure a filter is added) but takes time and effort Your existing nitrogen is a good call, clean & convenient

Just to be sure as you mentioned CO2…… You are using an actual HPA cylinder aren’t you as opposed to a CO2 cylinder ? HPA cylinders are topped off with a regulator assembly incorporating burst discs, pressure gauge, fill nipple and output valve. Whereas CO2 cylinders have a combined input/output valve with potentially an on/off. Assuming it is HPA then nitrogen will be fine, it’s cleaner than air (of which nitrogen makes up the majority) Back in the day as paintball (mostly) migrated from CO2 to compressed air nitrogen was often used instead from bulk cylinders until sites invested in HPA compressors.

Another tip with public transport is to think twice about your choice of bags. A gun bag is designed well for the purpose, but looks like a gun bag Consider other options, eg a sports bag or hold-all rather than a dedicated gun bag, or alternatively an outer bag - I have a snowboard bag that I used to use with gun bags inside it, that was more for the convenience of storing and carrying two or three gun bags at once from the back of the car onto the site but it also anonymises the contents (It would have been useful on the day that my car was parked on one side of motorway services and we had traveled on as a group getting dropped off on the other side. My team mate passenger was not so good at luggage and had also bought another gun with no bag or case - We had to make multiple trips due to the amount of gear, wrapped his in dirty playing clothes, met coach loads of pedestrians on the bridge in the opposite direction and as I had parked in a distant quiet part of the car park the motorway police had decided to meet up for their coffee and donuts next to my car - a big anonymous bag with lots of spare space would have been useful ———— Regarding spare clothes consider them for multiple purposes: You can avoid looking like a gun nut on public transport A clean set of clothes feels so good after a days play Depending on venue, weather and your style of play - if you have extra carrying capacity some spare playing clothes can let you be dry, clean and comfortable especially if the site breaks for lunch - it’s then that you cool down and feel grotty after crawling through mud earlier on. Fresh playing clothes reinvigorates you

Yes you can The VCRA covers the sale, import and manufacture Possession is fine, but transport it appropriately

It was really a self depreciating dig at myself as resident paintballer for 10 years Never played a game of airsoft myself, ran a few, and owned the precursor soft air gun kits back in the 80s (I did recently bite the bullet and bin my original M4 kit in a sad pile of parts that I pulled out of a cupboard)

At least ‘survival’ shows specially select applicants for such skills as sleeping in the sun and making some entertainment Meet David Lakota, ex US special forces* and the joy of his Doomsday preppers appearance. As he lives in Hawaii he has a plan to get to safety in the event of a tsunami, he has skills, he won’t just take the obvious route heading to the high ground ….. * Some people think that the film ‘the men who stare at goats’ was a fictional comedy film. David is from a later generation of the real unit - and due to our team name invited us to join his “New earth army” - we politely declined I did end up eventually blocking him, but I miss our conversations https://ejmas.com/jnc/jncart_channon_0200.htm

Duration of membership doesn’t mean anything …….. some may have been on this forum for about a decade without playing a single game of Airsoft

Yes I do most things on mobile, the computer in my pocket blows away most of those that I learned my old man skills on, and I’ve got finger skills for an old man What you’ve described as a building block is rolling back to a much more dated structure, if you have resources and ability then starting from scratch works and could make you the next social media giant, but using tools to build works much better (you’ve already pointed out that you’ve started off with a web builder, so you could just as well start from a social builder such as a forum environment - these are available as commercial off the shelf and open/community source environments The look and feel isn’t set in stone, and the functions can be made as visible or as deeply hidden as system owners desire - and if it doesn’t work as desired there’s a programmer out there somewhere that will code it in

A people based focus of forums…… click on a name to get the individuals forum home, track their content, privately or publicly interact with them: https://airsoft-forums.uk/profile/12141-tommikka/ Click my name and you can post on my personal page or message me privately, or jump in at the forum home and the member list https://airsoft-forums.uk/profile/12141-tommikka/ Hit @ and get a drop down to tag me in a response on thread without needing to quote @Bo B Why not a world map? Why not teams / clubs as well as sites? https://airsoft-forums.uk/clubs/ Not enabled on this forum currently (as far as I know) but calendars & events are a function of Invisioncommunity in which this forum has been built https://invisioncommunity.com/features/calendar/