Colonel Kurtz

i don't think there's a clear answer, but its definately enough of a question for most sites to veto it being used just incase. It's getting like the USA here and people are just terrified of being sued. i think you not being in direct control of the gun is enough to get the veto. it's a shame as this is the kind of free-thinking awesomeness i'd love to see more of in airsoft. don't let it put you off, worse-case scenario you'll have to get people to agree to it as a special event and maybe sign a form saying they wont sue you. If you can come up with a good couple game scenario to focus on it, you'd have a much better chance of getting it used somewhere, enough to make it a selling point to attract people, like you say letting others use it, not just something people have to endure. maybe sceanrio where the teams have to find and aquire the remote control unit first. perhaps declare an area inbetween the two sides spawn as radioactive and can only be passed through by the RC? Have a few 'rouge' players /marshal guarding an area that can only be taken down by the RC? Or maybe somekind of hostage scenario where only the RC can enter the hostage zone without triggering a response. Just something that'd make having the RC a tactical advantage as well as amusing novelty.

Would love to see this in action, but would an airsoft site let you use it? I think you'll have issues if it's got a gun on it, pyro's you can prob get away with most places, there's a guy who occasionally brings his RC pyro car to The Mall in Reading. I'd suggest a big shield on the gun wired up to a sensor, if it registers a hit then it powers off the gun/whole device for a few minutes. I think it needs to be possible for an opponent to disable/stop it for you to bypass half the bitching it'll prompt if used at a site, or someone just kicking it.

I dont know if they have a new site, i'd only found mention of them running a v small CQB site in the warehouse attached to the store they setup in Wokingham. The store is long gone so the site must have gone with it. Unless 'Airsoft101' and the site 'Warehouse13' is them, in which case it doesn't appear to be open yet, or failed to get going.

ah well seems I've suffered a worse case scenario then as was first I tried! I got covered in the stuff in an old bus which was the main feature of one the arenas, and was more a thick grey paste of many years of paint and moss.

Any chance you could offer guidance on what to use to clean it off if you use anything special? Or is it generally supposed to be no more difficult than any other dirt to wash off? i've got a molle belt covered in it, and no amount of washing, scrubbing, stain remover etc has done the job, paint seems to have well and truely fused to it and the best i'm managing is bits flaking off and taking a layer of material with them. I did do this in the peak of the summer, and i did not try and clean it off until the following morning, so perhaps the heat, cheap material of the belt and time to dry have allowed this to happen.

there's quite a few hosts that offer 'build your own website' services without them having to be packed full of ads. usually they just charge you a couple quid extra so the site name doesn't include their own. it'll be a ratio of monthly cost to ads, a dirt cheap one will be packed full of them, so it's about finding a middle-ground; moonfruit was the one a friend of mine picked, she runs her own small company and opted for something like this where it is easy for her to make little adjustments herself. if you get someone to make you a website then you'll be at their mercy if you want to make changes to it, so something like this may be best for you. If you do want to spend a lot of dosh on an all singing/dancing site full of interactivity and animations let me know, I make them part-time

looks like a B500A1, or one in the same range, which i can confirm from personal experience would require you to saw the flash-hider off, same again for the stock pole. inside it's all cheap plastic, but it's balanced as it's all cheap plastic. As others have said, any upgrades is pointless, as you'll have to do the whole thing or you'll have an imbalanced gun that will tear itself apart very quickly. upgrading all it's internals is more expensive than just buying a new better gun anyways It'll do you fine for CQB, and no doubt provide much pleasure when hitting people wearing/using about £1k of equipment. you might get picked off at range abit in woodland sites, but you have to remember it's only firing a plastic ball at people and the difference between airsoft guns is largely academic compared to the difference in how you use one (pointing it in the right direction etc hehe) Guess you're best off sticking with it until your parents are convinced you're dedicated enough to the hobby to merit another gun.

Also if any the sites you play at are used for paintball also, then the paint will be a bitch to get off such polymer fabric and if left to dry will bond with the material

Depends on the manufacturer, but I'd say the only issue you might get is one side of a button falling off or similar (only issue i've had with such stuff from a few dif manufacturers). the material will be cheap plasticy stuff, but it'll hold up to the rigors of usage pretty well, possibly better than a natural fibre. doubt you'll have poor stitching and it actually fall apart or anything, prob just the odd button as mentioned as they'll be cheap and stamped on. Seems to be alot of people making vests/rigs aimed at airsoft now, in the past was all military surplus. Viper seems to be the main non-military supplier airsoft stores opt for. I've got a bit of it and found it to be all good

I think camo works just as well in airsoft as in real soldiering. Only issue is the range people are enganging at largely removes the possibility of concealment, but definately will always aid in reducing your opponents target aquisition. Who knows how much difference that actually makes due to the general spread of firing BBs, and that most will spray your blurred outline with full-auto anyways. And lots of milsim events insist on dif camo schemes for each team. Id suggest wearing different top/trousers. the larger an area of continuos color is, the easier it is to spot, especially when it moves. not too different mind or the contrast will stick out more. Two different styles of camo will do, can be similar shades. I go for darker trousers, lighter top as this matches woodland or most other areas, darker ground, lighter folliage. Or make a ghille suit and spend the day waddling around like a sea-weed monster

i dunno, wank is pretty accurate for how many minutes excitement one their guns would create, someone else called them potato cannons earlier in this thread and i have to agree!

I just cant believe i missed them setting up a store and skirmish-site in my home town, although it didn't last long it seems, pricey area for real estate! Some said it was over-priced, I would have happily spent £20 for an hour using my TM High Cycle to shoot local brats armed with justbbguns potato-cannons. That'd be 5 minutes of me shooting kids until they quit, and 55 minutes practicing a convincing Simpsons-Nelson HAW HAW before the game started A friend of mine bought a B500A1 from them ages ago and had no troubles, although he was dissapointed that the button on the side didn't summon an SAS assault team via helicopter as promised in the review

I guess it all depends on your style of play. I run around alot and always happy to be the first lemming through the door, so get little use out of a sight. If your a defending team, or prefer to stay in one spot providing covering fire then you'll get more use out of it. I've never found i needed magnification to see where a bb goes using a 350fps m4, but eyesight is my one very good faculty and the last few metres can be abit hit and miss hehe. Any sight without magnification, dots etc is all good, they just save a second or two spent trying to align/focus on the iron sights Hopup is nice and easy to adjust, just increase it until the bb starts to curve up in its trajectory once its run out of force, then decrease it slightly until it doesnt.

My 2pence on scopes and zeroing; With the exception of very expensively and well crafted snipers (and still only just); The range at which airsoft guns are accurate/effective, you don't actually need a scope, let alone zeroing one. If you don't have very good eyesight, then magnification may help you see where the BB ends up hitting and thats about the only benefit. At the kind of range where scope zero-ing will make the difference between whether you hit someone or not, the variance/spread from shot to shot will be too great to make it worthwhile. If I use a scope I just attach it and leave it, as the scopes a few inches above the barrel it means when i aim at someones head it'll hit them in the chest, perfect! As long as the scopes in a 'neutral' position and not pointing significantly off in a direction then that's all you need. To me a scope in airsoft seems more about enjoying immersion in the soldier/hunting experience than having any practical benefit, it's all a game so if you enjoy it why not! in the time it takes to aim down a gun using a scope, you could have already fired a couple of shots and adjusted your aim accordingly. BB's travel slow enough for you to be able to follow the bb's path from the moment it leaves the barrel so it's very easy to see where you're shooting. unless you've not been spotted by the opponent or are down to last few bb's then i wouldn't bother with it at all. when you're looking down a scope your vision is narrowed (the point right duh), and a significant % of the people i've ever shot playing airsoft didn't see me because they were looking down a scope at a different tree or bush etc.

yeah i think lots of bits are glued on that gun, like the flash hider, and you'd have to saw a few bits in half to get in. i had a b500a1 years ago, I agree no point in trying to upgrade guns of this calibre, just save 100-150 quid and buy an ICS sportline

Indeed Lozart, I probably wouldn't have much sucess modifying a step counter. I went for the xcortech x3300w in the end, bought it from helmet world on ebay for £109 which is a good chunk less than their listed price, and still 10-20 less than most others. I'm planning on building the PEQ unit into the bodykit of the gun i'm constructing. Got a fair bit of room, only bit of electronics i'll have to prob do is extending the battery connection

i'd like to build a shot counter in to an AEG, can't see any available from any uk airsoft stores... As I lack the electronics knowledge to build my own from scratch, I'm considering buying a step counter and trying to adapt it. Anyone got an experience with making a shot counter and can offer any instruction?

Dont buy J&G guns EVER!!! I'd buy a sportline ICS rather than G&G, i.m.o ICS make better low-cost starter guns than G&G by a long shot.

second that, i have a tm p90 and m4 high cycle and they're ridiculously sweet. rarely get to use the full auto to its full effect but usually results in team mates saying 'ok you go first' edit: also i.m.o forget VFC/umarex and other real-steel licensed/trademarked crepe unless you want a show-piece to sit on the wall, special occasions gun. spend that extra £200 on a TM recoil that feels more like a real gun instead of looking more like one.

Seburo MN-23 The body kit made by Poseidon in the mid naughties (2003-2008 i think), then a small fortune having it laser scanned, converted into a autocad file and then CNC'd outta metal rather the resin the kit was originally made from. And a few more hundred on making the internals top notch. Possibly some ammo crafted from unicorn droppings as that's probably less rare and easier to aquire than the Poseidon bodykit.

ICS is a good place to start, and it's where i started too. I almost bought the CXP, until i noticed the TransforM4 and decided latest had to be best. I bought the shorter one and is very good, has served me well in woodland and CQB. Out the two you suggested, i'd say go with the CXP, as it'll be easier to get accesories for it as most stuff for M4-ish guns is compatible. If you're going to spend a little more dosh then i'd say buy a Tokyo Marui rather than a G&G as they're more likely to just continue to work without needing much maintenance.