mr-bodycounter

Strongly agree with RR01 here. Effective and trigger response (not fire rate) are key. BBs are cheap as hell but all the magazines you will need to carry and buy to feed your ammo eater will be cumbersome and expensive (plus the extra pouches you will require will add to your costs). Fire rate is massively overrated but incredibly cool.

Wise choice not being a sniper trust me I'd look at G&G over ICS as G&G are 99% TM compatible whereas some ICS parts are more bespoke (inside AND outside). If you're really set on ICS don't get the folding stock, get a crane or fixed stock for battery space in the back. I would definitely consider the previously mentioned G&G Raiders (short or long idk where you play) or if you want to splash out perhaps look at their top tech range.

Depends on the size of your main rifle, a pistol is much easier to peak corners with than any rifle but is only really NEEDED if you have a longer barrelled rifle. However pistols (assuming you're talking about a GBB) can be incredibly expensive for what they are, have a lower magazine capacity than a second (back up) AEG and the magazines and gas can make them expensive to run (plus their performance fluctuates based upon climate).

Sight, foregrip and light? Not that bad at all. Provided it works well for you and you actually use all of those attachments (which I can easily see you doing) there is no problem. But I agree that foregrip/flashlight combo looks a little wierd for the gun, not in an over the top way but more I'd have a foregrip on the bottom and a flashlight on the side running off of a pressure pad on the foregrip. And yeah what is that wire???

I'd consider Viper's (relatively) new line of Laser Cut PCs, they come in lots of different colours and their new Laser Cut system (Condor also have a Laser Cut range) looks quite futuristic indeed That could run you £40 or nearly £70 (depending on which model you get) and then you can spend the rest on pouches (essentials are magazine pouches, consider Viper again as they are within your budget, and a dump pouch for empty magazines, which Viper don't do but you can easily find one for £10). All the stuff I mentioned is available from http://www.military1st.co.uk/ (a decent site where you can buy pretty much everything you need to at least get you going). Viper isn't the BEST brand in the world but it's a great brand to try out different styles of gear cheaply.

A 0.25 actually doesn't reduce your range compared to 0.20 as much as people assume. A 0.25 is heavier so keeps it's momentum meaning, although it comes out of your barrel at a lower fps, it won't lose its speed as quickly at a 0.20 (and some people claim that at x yards away the 0.25 is actually moving faster than the 0.20 bb but I don't know about that). So if range or speed is MASSIVELY putting you off I wouldn't worry too much. Also make sure your hop up (mainly bucking) can lift a heavier bb weight, because a softer bucking may begin to struggle at 0.25, your range will decrease if they're dropping straight out of your barrel. But on top of that, everyone else is right. They have more momentum so tend to have a straighter flight path and are less affected by cross winds.

Thank you didn't see it

It's true that I doubt you have L85's at your school and more likelyhave the L98 (L98A2 Cadet GP Rifle) which has the major difference of an absene of the ability to toggle between full auto and single auto, that said my school has some L86 LSWs for which the older boys can train on and then use that on their camps in section attacks and so on... Edit: FULLY auto and SEMI auto, sowwy

Saw this a while ago but really do like the look of it, still not on the market yet but who would get it if it comes out??? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHr1AN0RKYY Looks nice if you ask me...

The golden rule for batteries is just don't buy them from an airsoft shop.

The thing is, it is one of the most ergonomic weapons out there and is tiny for CQB but is not as upgradable or customisable as a standard M4 or AK and (I do not own one) the internals are meant to be mid end but nothing special and as said, if it does break on you a lot of the parts will be near impossible to source in order to fix the weapon. That said the look and externals of the gun and second to none.

I am building a gun with a 300mm inner barrel, excluding the flash hider length, for my M4, how long should my outer barrel be?

Are the Glock 18 and the Glock 17 the same dimension (excluding the selector plate), I own a Glock 18 and want a hard shell holster for it but all I can find are Glock 17 holsters, they look the same size and the real Glock 17 I fired in America was the exact same size as I remember. So basically if I buy a Glock 17 hard holster will the Glock 18 fit???

MOSFET, I know little to nothing about the gun in question but I know an 11.1v LiPO battery should without a doubt be coupled with a MOSFET

Ehh, I prefer gunfire.pl and have experience with them - I have never bought from Taiwan Gun before but I prefer the range on gunfire.pl but have no negative experience of Taiwan Gun but other people on this post have and I haven't heard anything negative from them.

That is legitimately disgusting, my site keeps all the hire AEGs with the owner and TWA often gets makeshift wooden building burnt down (and then they rebuild a two storey building which is better than the one that got burnt down) but stealing in general of any kind is disgusting.

Oh I completely understand the adrenaline but I suppose I do expect too much of players in terms of hit taking and I personally don't ever wear sapi plates (just for looks to be honest out of the game) because they are like BB Proof and it is impossible to 'feel' hits through that.

More often, in my case anyway, I hit them and it's like a delayed reaction and they raise and shoot me and a second later call hit but I agree with you and reserve the overkill route for blatant cheaters or people who need a little help taking their hits.

I don't think it's really worth telling a marshall to be honest because I genuinely don't think people mean to do it but I was on an incredible run on Saturday, I guy rushes me and I just shoot him twice and then like half a second after I've hit him he'll raise his gun and hit me and I don't think it's blatant cheating but half the reason I tend to call it with hire people (I mean if it's a regular player then they should know better) is because I know it means more to them to get a kill then it does to me to get a death and I don't want to put them off the sport and also, I don't want to cause any arguments because it is just a game. I understand but I only fully dump a mag into someone who is blatantly cheating and I don't want to be dragged into that sort of mentality but I suppose it depends what mood I am in.

A lot of the time (mainly in CQB engagements) I will get the drop on someone, shoot them once or twice when their gun is down and then they will be hit, raise their gun, shoot me and then call the hit even though realistically they were dead before they even sighted me in. Admittedly this tends to happen more often with newer or rental players but it is very frustrating as I tend to just call it anyway to reduce arguments but does anyone else experience this at all and what do you do because it makes my feel like they have final stand from CoD which I will not even get started on.

I don't know how terribly it was shimmed but that is almost as if you coated the gears in acid as well. You will probably have to buy a new piston now but buy a piston with some (preferably all) metal teeth, and LEARN TO SHIM WELL, there is thousands of good tutorials out there just watch them and when it comes to it, take your time, better to spend 6 hours shimming and have a gun that lasts for 6years than spend 5 seconds shimming and have to repair your gun every 20 shots. Also, look at AOE (there is a good video by ASTKilo23 out there which explains everything really well).

My honest opinion is do not use bulldogs, they are endorsed by a cheap company and the quality is very low as in my experience they can jam a high quality barrel which is what a sniper like that is likely to have. I recommend madbull and blaster and they do not cost the earth and as a sniper you will not use to many anyway meaning the price isn't an issue. Also I am just interested to know what made you go with the HFC and not the JG BAR-10? Good luck and I'll keep my eye on this thread.

As far as sights go you have your four main types: Iron Sights - Standard issue and come on most of your weapons. Usually an aperture at the rear sight and a pin at the other end. Cheap, effective, durable and don't need batteries. Reflex Sights - (Often known as red dots from video games) Not to go too sciencey on you but they work on reflecting a form of dot or cross-hair onto a piece of glass or plastic. An advantage of them is that you can comfortably keep both eyes open and see through your sights. Can be cheap or very expensive and run on batteries. Holographic Sights - I know you speak of an eotech replica (it is not a real one most likely as they are very expensive) but that sight is unlikely (99% certain it is not unless it is hundreds of pounds) an actually holographic sight. The reason is holographic sights work on holograms to give a supposedly more accurate sight picture and reduce parallax (the problem of having two eyes in two different places), they are very accurate for real steal fire arms but not that necessary for airsoft as an airsoft gun does not give real accuracy comparable to a real M4. The sight you are viewing is probably a reflex sight as sights are classified by how they work and although it looks like a holographic sight from video games it is just visually the same and is scientifically no different to the standard to another reflex sight. Scopes - These are quite simply for your long range shooting and are good due to their magnification. They will have numbers in the title and this is how they work: for example a 3-9x50E sight means it has magnification levels from 3-9 (A single number means fixed magnification). The 50 refers to the object lens size (in mm) which refers to how much light is let in. Some sights have an E at the end and some do not, the E refers to whether the sight has electric illumination of the cross-hair (which again requires batteries). As far as my recommendation goes I would say for your average M4 your iron sights are more than sufficient, however, if you plan to go for an expensive scope/reflex sight that can break (which is basically everything except iron sights) get a speed BB shield as they will protect your investment (do not get a cheap chinese clone as they will give up after 1-2 shots in cqb). Hope I helped and just remember to zero any sight you get in your garden before you skirmish with it!