Quick Change Spring

[Mik3F]

How easy is it to change a spring in a gearbox

 

My AEG chronos at 255 on .25 so I'd potentially like to change the spring to get another 40-50 FPS out of it if possible

 

 I think there is a 90 spring in there at the moment, according to the specs from the manufacturer

 

Would a 100 spring achieve this, or is it better to just keep it as it is

 

 

Edited Tuesday at 20:27 by Mik3F

[Tommikka]

How easy is the same as asking how long a piece of string is

 

There’s an example video below, but it depends on what RIF you have, and how practical you are - then what if it goes wrong 

(It’s a good learning experience to do your own maintenance / ‘upgrades’ etc - but the real lessons occur from finding out it doesn’t work any more - it’s useful to have spare RIFs that will work while you have a pile of non working parts) 

 

The specifics of the RIF type/manufacturer systems can vary, but first you’ll have to get to the workings without losing parts and keeping them organised to be able to put them back together 

 

Next get at the workings, without any parts dropping off or springing across the room 

 

Then deal with the ‘quick change’ spring itself 

 

Rebuild everything, see if it works, see if it has improved your situation 

https://youtu.be/cja3LZONbH0

[Galvatron]

It depends on which AEG you have but if you're referring to your LT-32, you should only need to remove the butt stock and buffer tube (with a bolt in the tube) to access the QCS where a hex head should push in the spring guide at the back of your gearbox, where you'd do a quarter turn to release the guide and spring.

 

Whether an M100, M95 or M105, etc, by the same brand would be suitable depends a lot on how good your compression is with the cylinder.

[Rogerborg]

  On 15/04/2025 at 20:46, Galvatron said:

depends a lot on how good your compression is with the cylinder

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Yup, you're at about 0.8J which is pretty poor (unless you're a Tokyo Marui true believer).  You can throw in a stronger spring, although you're putting more stress on the components than by improving the air seal.  If you are going to just up-spring, and if that 0.8J and M90 are accurate, and you have a chrono available, I'd go to an M105 or M110.  If you come out hot, you can cut a coil off, or just heat and flatten a coil with a gas flame.

[Mik3F]

Yep. It’s the LT32

 

I have read that shorter barrels has an effect on FPS. 
 

As it’s primarily going to be used for CQB I may just switch to .2s to get to 300 FPS