Help- can you identify these airsoft trip mines

[1967PF44]

Hi, 

 

Can anyone identify the airsoft trip wire mine on the right and explain how they work- or confirm my thoughts that there are parts missing 

 

unlike the one on the left there is no plungers to reset the spring on the firing pin and no safety pin hole 

 

google has failed me   
 

any help appreciated 

 

EDIT : PS I know the left one is a dynatex scaremonger 

 

Edited October 26, 2023 by 1967PF44

[Tommikka]

17 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:

Hi, 

 

xan anyone identify the airsoft trip wire mine on the right and explain how they work- or confirm my thoughts that there are parts missing 

 

unlike the one on the left there is no plungers to reset the spring on the firing pin and no safety pin hole 

 

google has failed me   
 

any help appreciated 

 

Can you give more pictures in other angles?

 

Are there signs of equivalent parts being missing or that the design does not appear to account for such parts ?

[Tommikka]

Going in blind, I’m assuming that it’s a blank firer which sets off by a striker pin on the the plunger 

 

But devices can be many things, blanks, crow scarers, 12gram co2 cartridges etc

the holes look like the safety side vent of a blank firer.

 

More information is needed 
 

[Cannonfodder]

It's a Dynatex Scaremonger Blank Firing Trip Mine according to google, they come in .209, 9mm and 12g flavours. Unfortunately I can't find much more than that. If you get it working please let us know what they're like as I'm always interested in stuff that goes boom

Edited October 26, 2023 by Cannonfodder
Spag

[1967PF44]

So to answer some of the questions raised, -rest I know that the one on the left is a dynatex scaremonger - I have owned that for years and know exactly how it works. For the benefit of @Tommikkaand his helpful images, they both take 9mm blanks placed in the screw in top (vented section) the left one is set by pulling the plunger outwards and pushing in on the central pin that passes through the plunger to lock the firing pin in the primed position (which has the effect of priming a spring loaded firing pin) the central rod going through the plunger can be very easily pulled out and this action releases the firing pin to fire the blank.

 

fishing line (normally) is then tied to both half’s via the rings, and secured to a fixed point with the line crossing a trail or doorway, contact with the line pulls the in and bang ‼️ grenade kills for all those with whatever blast range your site sets (10m in my case) 

 

it’s the one on the right I am interested in identifying, it appears to work on the same principle, but I cannot see how to prime it, if I can identify it I can find out if parts are missing or broken off, such as the plunger shaped priming device.  For those asking for different angles there is nothing else to see, it’s a plain blue metallic cylinder- unlike the dynatec scaremonger it does not have a central safety pin hole, it has an almost identical spring loaded firing pin, which I can press down on, but there is no way to lock it in the primed position. 
 

any help to identity it is great, PS I’ve searched bird scarers, security trip wires, and many other terms, involving blank firing devices lol, lots of similar things but nothing the same 

49 minutes ago, Cannonfodder said:

It's a Dynatex Scaremonger Blank Firing Trip Mine according to google, they come in .209, 9mm and 12g flavours. Unfortunately I can't find much more than that. If you get it working please let us know what they're like as I'm always interested in stuff that goes boom

The one on the left is a scaremonger, the one on the right isn’t, it’s the right one I’m interested in 

[Tommikka]

31 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:

 

 

it’s the one on the right I am interested in identifying, it appears to work on the same principle, but I cannot see how to prime it, if I can identify it I can find out if parts are missing or broken off, such as the plunger shaped priming device.  

 

……

 

 unlike the dynatec scaremonger it does not have a central safety pin hole, it has an almost identical spring loaded firing pin, which I can press down on, but there is no way to lock it in the primed position. 
 

 

I keep having thoughts that it’s a pressure mine, which would reflect you not having something to lock it as primed, but that would only work if the pin / blank can be impacted properly when stood on etc

 

So I think that you are right that mystery object which needs to be recognised to establish if something is missing or the priming method needs to be identified 

 

Dynatex have made many products based on the same principles, some of which have a sleeve / enclosure as a grenade - but I would have still expected somewhere for a safety pin

[Tommikka]

50 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:

 

 

fishing line (normally)

 

I’ll comment on fishing line as a trip line.

 

There are of course many factors to consider with a trip line, we haven’t liked fishing line.   It has some stretch to it

(Which is a good and a bad thing depending on placement and intent)

 

If you are giving careful people a small chance to notice that they have caught a trip wire then the stretch and tension gives them that moment.

 

It also depends on the force required.  Physical devices such as these have the plunger spring tension against the safety pin, and that gives some friction against the sideways pull of the pin.  You therefore need a ‘strong’ enough line to pull against the friction 

Add this friction with some stretch and that is the chance you are giving the player to detect - if they are running then it’s too late, if carefully walking then they have a chance.  If opening a door they may or may not detect ‘tension’

 

 

We primarily go for pyro based systems, and have devices with electric trigger systems which means we don’t need the physical force of an impact for a blanks percussion cap, therefore less need for a ‘strong’ line

 

I don’t like to discuss specifics on our device designs (and I also work with those of an Army engineers background including some of EOD experience which also influences how much I’d publicly say about our designs!)

 

For trip devices we’ve had two core designs.

Mk1 had some ‘physics’ and needed a level of tension to pull it.  Similarly to blank devices a fishing line or cord would be needed but would have a level a stretch before ‘popping’. Wire doesn’t stretch, but can be too obvious when strong enough.

Mk2 designs are very sensitive, only needing a light touch which would enable something more fine, or any ‘stretch’ in the line would trigger 

 

 

 

[1967PF44]

The pressure required to “detonate” the dyntatec one (left) is very low, no more than a few pounds of pressure, and less than a centimetre of movement in the release pin to pull it out.

 

the other is on the same principal - spring loaded firing pin, it must be missing parts to set - which is why I need to identify it, lol 😂 

[Tommikka]

12 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:

The pressure required to “detonate” the dyntatec one (left) is very low, no more than a few pounds of pressure, and less than a centimetre of movement in the release pin to pull it out.

 

‘Low’ is of course relative 

A few pounds and under a centimeter go with our Mk1 but are a lot of pressure for the mk2

A (very) careful player can notice and step back from low pressure, and that of course is also a successful device  - once players know that there are trip wires around they slow down and avoid obvious routes 

12 minutes ago, 1967PF44 said:

 

the other is on the same principal - spring loaded firing pin, it must be missing parts to set - which is why I need to identify it, lol 😂 

👍

[Tactical Pith Helmet]

7 hours ago, Tommikka said:

I’ll comment on fishing line as a trip line.

 

There are of course many factors to consider with a trip line, we haven’t liked fishing line.   It has some stretch to it

Monofilament line has stretch. 

 

Fluorocarbon has less stretch and is stiffer, pound for pound.  Can be shiny though. 

 

Braided line is no stretch and thinnest pound for pound.   It is also available in matt green,  brown and camo.  Green Berkeley is very thin, very strong and lasts years.  It also tends to be the cheapest brand.   

 

Not sure why anyone would use standard mono for tripwire these days.   

[Tackle]

Or there's your poor mans option, dental floss, get about 30 metres for a couple of quid, barely visible to the eye, & super strong (ever tried to break it without some kinda cutting device, always cuts in to your fingers) 

 

[Cannonfodder]

I found fishing line was perfect for my home made trip wires, but then again it only had to pull a bit of card out from a clothes peg

 

Before anyone gets their panties knotted it was only the trip wire part which was homemade, the bangy bit was a shop bought mk5 maroon