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Classic army motors


Pewpewpetie
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Hi just received my classic army scarab abr, having a slight problem with it. The motor (which Is the high torque version) is becoming very hot within 15 shots (be it on auto or semi). Is this going to be down to poor factory shimming/motor alignment?

IMG_20210805_154134.jpg

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Wild stab in the dark, the mosfet your Scarab is fitted with has active braking. That'll do it.

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2 hours ago, Lozart said:

Wild stab in the dark, the mosfet your Scarab is fitted with has active braking. That'll do it.

Literally just about to write that, I noticed sparking from motor after re shimming it and setting AOE. May sound stupid bit is there a way to remove active breaking or should I just get a mosfet without it.

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I'll be very clear that I don't know the answer to that question, and don't know how well these will play with an active-brake mosfet (which may be very, very badly indeed), but I've fitted Schottky diodes to all my motors now in a ritual act to keep the angry pixies flying in the right direction without escaping in a sparky rage.  I use SB260s rather than the SB160s recommended here because 1) they fit, and 2) that's a whole 100 more Schottkies!

 

 

 

[Edit - I wind the wires the other way, clockwise around the screws, so that they get pulled tighter. I'm not sure why this chap wound them anticlockwise, or whether that's deliberate or not]

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19 hours ago, Pewpewpetie said:

Literally just about to write that, I noticed sparking from motor after re shimming it and setting AOE. May sound stupid bit is there a way to remove active breaking or should I just get a mosfet without it.

 

Unless the mosfet is programmable (which I doubt) then you won't be able to disable it. Better off ditching it for a decent Mosfet (either with or without active braking).

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4 minutes ago, Lozart said:

 

Unless the mosfet is programmable (which I doubt) then you won't be able to disable it. Better off ditching it for a decent Mosfet (either with or without active braking).

 

to add to this, unless it's a fast enough build to be double-firing on semi then you generally don't need active brake unless you're also adding stuff like precocking into the mix.

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3 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

to add to this, unless it's a fast enough build to be double-firing on semi then you generally don't need active brake unless you're also adding stuff like precocking into the mix.

Has basic options i.e burst mode etc. Ill have a look at the peruns. Must be an optical mosfet as the shell has no trigger posts. They modded the v2 shell to house the mosfet. After more in inspection I feel that the active break may be adding to the heat of bad motor allignment. Packed out one side of the grip to straighten motor and heat has dropped dramatically

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