G36 Not Full Selecting Full Auto

[FirsthandSnow]

Hi, I've been teching my Dad's Specna Arms G36 and once finished with the gearbox I popped the gearbox back in the lower receiver part. Testing it in semi is fine, but full auto doesn't work. I know this isn't a cut off lever issue as its a brand new lever, and I'm certain its either the selector plate or fire selector switch. 

 

If I push and hold the fire selector as far as it will go full auto works fine, its only when I let go that the small amount of play in the switch slackens, thus lowering the cut off lever just enough for the sector gear to begin to catch it.

 

Anybody else had any trouble like that at all? 

 

Many thanks

[Leonine]

My G36 requires me to have to fully pull back the trigger in full auto to fire. It’s like it’s asking me if I’m sure I want to unleash hell on someone 😂 I got told that if it jams to

switch back into semi and hold the battery handle then fire. 🙂 I also have a Specna Arms.

Note. Thats my partner holding my gun 😂

[Rogerborg]

4 hours ago, FirsthandSnow said:

I know this isn't a cut off lever issue as its a brand new lever

 

Which is exactly why I'd suspect it is a cut off lever issue.

 

Parts aren't necessarily 100% compatible even within a brand, let alone aftermarket.

 

Why did you change the cut-off lever?  Did you change the selector plate?  Did you change any of the springs?  Did you change the gears?  Did you change anything else?

[Sitting Duck]

11 hours ago, FirsthandSnow said:

Hi, I've been teching my Dad's Specna Arms G36 and once finished with the gearbox I popped the gearbox back in the lower receiver part. Testing it in semi is fine, but full auto doesn't work. I know this isn't a cut off lever issue as its a brand new lever, and I'm certain its either the selector plate or fire selector switch. 

 

If I push and hold the fire selector as far as it will go full auto works fine, its only when I let go that the small amount of play in the switch slackens, thus lowering the cut off lever just enough for the sector gear to begin to catch it.

 

Anybody else had any trouble like that at all? 

 

Many thanks

 

Did you make VERY CLOSE COMPARISONS between old/new COL

coz on silver alloy JG G36, a SHS COL will fuck stuff up

The black steel SHS COL has more of a "lug" than the alloy JG one

so suffice to say, the operation of COL at rest/raised will be affected

 

 

Cyma G36's - their COL's & selector plates are different to JG's

and a SHS COL in a JG, even when modded with smaller lug, can catch on trigger trolley

(so it struggles to reset each time in semi - more slight modding req)

 

a bit more info demonstrating TM compatibility is a bit of a myth (sometimes pure bollox)

on another site but you get the gist that some COL's & selectors don't work too good if you mix/match...

 

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/axis-mp5k-revival-build-thread.149010/#post-1726336

 

What you likely got is either a not so compatible COL in there

(check/compare old/new parts - ALWAYS prior to fitting)

or

you fucked up the selector gear mechanism alignment when refitting it back together

(so you can't shift the selector all the way to fully raise COL to fire in auto)

[Zarrin]

G36 lowers / have a little cam system that syncs up the ambi fire selectors, if you move either side while holding the other side still they go out of sync - it's easy enough to re-sync them but the teeth on the little gears attached to either side of the selector need to join the central cam gears at exactly the same point, so it's a symmetrical sync up.

So, If one side (specifically the one with the dowel that slots into the groove on the selector plate) is not synced correctly, you might not be allowing the selector plate enough travel to fully go into auto. 

 

I would definitely check this first seeing as you don't even need to fully disassemble the gun - just remove the lower from the upper and then pull the gearbox out of the lower.