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FirsthandSnow

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About FirsthandSnow

  • Rank
    AF-UK Newbie

Profile Information

  • Guns
    Classic Army ISSC MK22, WE Europe Sig P226, Nuprol Raven Glock 17, ASG Armalite M15 Operator
  • Loadouts
    British Army Surplus MTP Gear
    8Fields tactical vest, Kombat UK battlebelt
  • Sites
    Halo Mill Huddersfield
    FAO The Mill

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  1. Hi all, a little update. I went to a local airsoft store and took the rifle with me. They said with all the parts new, off the tops of their heads they couldn't pin point anything, but if I leave it with them its a charge of £40 and they may never get to the bottom of it, an electrical gremlin as they called it. So I decided to be a stubborn bastard and take a used V2 gearbox from them, as a last resort. Got home and swapped everything over to the used gearbox and IT ONLY GOD DAMN WORKS! I could only put it down to the stripped cut off lever screw hole 🤷‍♂️ Thanks for the help guys
  2. Hi, okay, will try that this evening. But does that explain how changing the trigger contact position makes things worse? When I make them narrow with a 1mm or 2mm gap I only have to pull the trigger a little and the gearbox starts cycling full auto, as if the trigger hasn't pushed the trolley far enough in for the cut off lever to catch, but the electrical connection is made. I'm a novice as you can tell so apologies. Many thanks, I will try what you said and report back this evening
  3. Hi, I see, how would I go about checking it properly kicks the trolley? Pull the trigger and move the cut off lever? Many thanks
  4. Hi, the selector plate, spring and cut off lever are all new. The lever is a V2 one from AK2M4, identical to the original and moves as the selector plate moves, so I am assuming they are working correctly together. I changed the trigger trolley but not the contacts, that was going to be my next bit of troubleshooting. It seems to be the closer the contacts are together and slowly squeezing the trigger the more it fires full auto, the further apart, at a point where I'm having to really squeeze the trigger HARD, is when I can make a semi auto shot, there is no in-between... Many thanks
  5. So i got this M15 second hand and with a day it had malfunctioned and the gun was firing in full auto on semi. As a complete novice at teching, I decided to give it a go. I replaced the cut off lever, piston head, nozzle, gears, shimmed the gear box and can disassemble and reassemble the gear box with ease now. I separated the trigger contacts a little and used a new trigger trolley and trigger. I fixed the problem, for a time, then it started again and no matter how the trigger contacts are positioned, the gun won't fire in semi. I'm only using a 9.6v NiMh and even with and 8.4v NiMh its the same story. Before I bother doing a solder job and replacing the contacts, is there a simple easy fix I'm missing? Many thanks guys
  6. Hi thanks for the help. The 21.4mm nozzle fits brilliantly with no feeding issues in semi or auto. Hopefully the little extra length creates a better air seal with the hop unit Many thanks guys
  7. HI guys, would any of you know how to disassemble the Ares stubby mags? They are not like other mags in that there is no hex screw on the bottom holding the units to the outer. There are however two tabs at the top, front and back, but even depressing both the unit wont shift. I feel if I were to prise it much further I could damage it. Any advice would be great Thanks and stay safe
  8. Hi, I'm doing my first bit of teching and upgrading. I'm working on a V2 gearbox inside an ASG Amralite M15. The cylinder and cylinder head had a very poor seal so I'm replacing the head and nozzle. The current plastic nozzle, measured with calipers, is 20.5mm though the replacement aluminium nozzle is 21.4mm. Is the 0.9mm difference likely to have any negative effect to loading the bb into the hop chamber? Many thanks 😊
  9. A Classic Army ISSC MK22, almost 100% sure it uses a V2 gearbox. Thanks
  10. I was out at a CQB site on saturday, when I noticed my selector switch on the right side was a bit loose and the left was fine. When I got home I removed the selector switch from the post and at that point the left selector was not engaging the right at all and the right post spins freely. Is this an easy fix or does it need to be tech'd? I'm due to be having it serviced soon anyhow, but if I can fix it myself I'm willing to try many thanks
  11. Hi. Yeah, I was swapping for swapping sake aha I had changed out the barrel and hop rubber so thought about giving it a new hop unit. I just returned the unit to the seller, and will now go by the old saying "if it ain't broke, dont fix it" Thanks for the links and info, it's really helpful regards
  12. Hi, I have just come to replace my hop up unit with a ZCI CNC M4 Style hop unit, and its too short and too wide at the top where the arm sits. So being too short the magazine feeds infront of the unit, and being too wide I can actuall get the outerbarrel back onto the frame of the gun. The ZCI is a ProWin copy, and looking and most others hops, theyre all the same size, am I just being a noob or am I missing something? I have copied in a picture for reference, the red hop being the new ZCI. Are there any decent upgrade hops the same size as the CA one I already have? Thanks a lot guys
  13. Sorry to restart an old thread. I actually use ESS V12's myself, I figured what was good enough for the British Army was probably good enough for me. However, unlike what you have mentioned, I havent had much fogging, more just the odd run of sweat on the lens. I too took the foam out and always fully open the lens to allow for as much airflow as possible. I also use Nuprol anti fog which I apply through the course of an event day and find generally my vision to be okay.
  14. Hi, thanks for the help, I'll leave it as is at the moment thanks again
  15. Hi, I'm just a little intriguied at what point it is okay to take the paint off of my two tone. I bought my first weapon in July, Classic Army ISSC Mk.II, and as I wasnt a member of any particular site at that time I had to purchase a two tone. Still yet am I to become a member anywhere as I have visited a few sites rather than just one particular site multiple times. However, with regards to UKARA, does anyone know if that is only required for the purchase of RIF's or is that needed in order to strip the paint from a two tone? What I'm trying to ask is, do I need to have UKARA registration before I strip the paint from my rifle? And if I can, what is the best thing to remove it? Many thanks and warm regards Snow.
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