FirsthandSnow

I was at a gameday on Saturday, there was 4 of us with Comms, all using channel 3 PMR446. There was my dad and I who could speak and hear each other, and 2 friends who could hear and speak to eachother. The issue was my dad and I couldn't speak to our 2 friends, though we could hear them. Is there something I'm missing? Thanks

Ah yes, good idea! Don't know why I immediate thought about buying them haha thank you!

Hi, okay, thank you for the info :] I'll try one of each to see. thank you very much for your help

Been after a 1911 for a while and found a valken one in a clearence without a mag for around £50, but can't source actual valken mags. The seller says the Nuprol Raven 1911 mags fit but the slide lock doesn't work with those mags, so ideally would like to have the correct mags. I've Googled but can't seem to find anywhere in the UK Selling Valken mags. Any ideas chaps? Many thanks

I've seen revision sawfly which are mil-prf-31013 rated so will likely pick them up. Someone is selling them on eBay for £22 a pair with yellow and dark lenses so will give them a whirl I think...

So basically Z87.1 doesn't sound suitable haha The best I can do at the moment is to shoot them with a gun doing 350fps at point blank and see how they hold up. Assuming they hold out, would I need someone with a 500fps gun to shoot them still? Given the distance that snipers tend to play from, a direct hit to the lens will be quite a lot less powerful than when it immediately leaves the barrel? Many thanks

Anybody using these Apache glasses? Wondering how safe they are for airsoft and some reviews from past or.present users of them. They're ANSI Z87.1 rated, is that sufficient for UK Airsoft(?) as seen on some other forums talk of the ANSI Z87.1+. Currently using ESS V12 and Revision WolfSpider goggle both of which are Z87.1+, but want something a little lighter and low profile. I appreciate any replies Many thanks

Hi, so I actually fixed the inconsistency by filing away some plastic from the front of the tappet plate, it's now consistent at 295-300fps on .25g, as that's the only BB's I had spare, without any drops. But will try again with an SHS AK tappet and see if that makes any difference Thanks for the detailed reply

Hi, so I got an E&L AK74u w/ railed handguard, it looks very, very pretty. Out the box it was doing around 333fps with drops down to as low as 112fps. I was a bit pissed about this, but, I'd worked on enough M4's and a G36c umpteen times to feel more than comfortable and confident in taking this apart, assuming it was likely a dodgy seal somewhere in the compression parts. The only slightly poor compression part was the nozzle seal on the cylinder head; it leaked at full extension. E&L have used a machined one piece cylinder and cylinder head, which sure provides a good seal given its one piece, but it's ribbed on the inside and when the piston moves down it sounds like someone sawing through something, it sounds horrific. Not sure for who's pleasure it's ribbed for lol I digress; I had a spare cylinder, piston and piston head, I bought a new double seal cylinder head, and replaced the spare piston's o-ring with a 19.5mm one for that extra little bit of seal. Everything together, the compression was great, no leaks, felt absolutely solid and everything moves great inside the gearbox. Shimming in the gearbox was good, I tweaked it ever so slightly with some 0.01mm shims and got the gearset spinning flawlessly. I also cleaned the hop rubber, and chamber. Whacked it all back together with an m110, expecting the fps would be hot, but it's the only spring I had and bam! 320fps with random drops to 269fps. So still got the same issue as out the box, but the drop isnt as significant and inconsistent. So having spoken to AK2M4, I'm going to try a harder bucking at 70⁰. Failing that, it's a new hop unit I suppose, unless any of you guys have had similar experiences and have any suggestions to help a brother out! Lol Thanks guys.

Brilliant, thanks a lot for the link mate Much appreciated

hey guys, I stripped my CA Mk22 some time ago, before other things took up my time, and I stupidly binned the cheapo plastic nozzle before measuring it for a replacement. I did buy an SHS 28.9mm SCAR type nozzle but given the lack lustre FPS, at 208, with an M100, I'm putting it down to the nozzle being too short, though i am replacing the piston head and cylinder head, just to rule them out. Anything much longer is ridiculously priced with flat rate shipping, around £15 in total. I don't suppose anyone has a spare nozzle, preferably with an O-Ring, around 38mm long (I planned to buy big and file down until its just right) that wouldn't mind selling it on to me? Many thanks

Hi, I've been teching my Dad's Specna Arms G36 and once finished with the gearbox I popped the gearbox back in the lower receiver part. Testing it in semi is fine, but full auto doesn't work. I know this isn't a cut off lever issue as its a brand new lever, and I'm certain its either the selector plate or fire selector switch. If I push and hold the fire selector as far as it will go full auto works fine, its only when I let go that the small amount of play in the switch slackens, thus lowering the cut off lever just enough for the sector gear to begin to catch it. Anybody else had any trouble like that at all? Many thanks

Oh wow! Obviously I wasn't searching for the correct thing on Google 🤣 Thanks for giving me so many choices, might go for the European Seller as I imagine the shipping will be quicker given the ones from Hong Kong arrive between 5th August and 5th October aha Many thanks man

Hi, does anyone know if ANYWHERE stocks a knock off of a CRYE LAP Panel? It's the type Obi Wan Nairobi had attached to his chest rig, quite fancy the "called to action on my way to the shops" operator look so trying to imitate his loadout on a budget. Unfortunately I can't be affording the 200$+ price tag for the real deal 🤣 Many thanks for any info:)

Hi all, a little update. I went to a local airsoft store and took the rifle with me. They said with all the parts new, off the tops of their heads they couldn't pin point anything, but if I leave it with them its a charge of £40 and they may never get to the bottom of it, an electrical gremlin as they called it. So I decided to be a stubborn bastard and take a used V2 gearbox from them, as a last resort. Got home and swapped everything over to the used gearbox and IT ONLY GOD DAMN WORKS! I could only put it down to the stripped cut off lever screw hole 🤷‍♂️ Thanks for the help guys

Hi, okay, will try that this evening. But does that explain how changing the trigger contact position makes things worse? When I make them narrow with a 1mm or 2mm gap I only have to pull the trigger a little and the gearbox starts cycling full auto, as if the trigger hasn't pushed the trolley far enough in for the cut off lever to catch, but the electrical connection is made. I'm a novice as you can tell so apologies. Many thanks, I will try what you said and report back this evening

Hi, I see, how would I go about checking it properly kicks the trolley? Pull the trigger and move the cut off lever? Many thanks

Hi, the selector plate, spring and cut off lever are all new. The lever is a V2 one from AK2M4, identical to the original and moves as the selector plate moves, so I am assuming they are working correctly together. I changed the trigger trolley but not the contacts, that was going to be my next bit of troubleshooting. It seems to be the closer the contacts are together and slowly squeezing the trigger the more it fires full auto, the further apart, at a point where I'm having to really squeeze the trigger HARD, is when I can make a semi auto shot, there is no in-between... Many thanks

So i got this M15 second hand and with a day it had malfunctioned and the gun was firing in full auto on semi. As a complete novice at teching, I decided to give it a go. I replaced the cut off lever, piston head, nozzle, gears, shimmed the gear box and can disassemble and reassemble the gear box with ease now. I separated the trigger contacts a little and used a new trigger trolley and trigger. I fixed the problem, for a time, then it started again and no matter how the trigger contacts are positioned, the gun won't fire in semi. I'm only using a 9.6v NiMh and even with and 8.4v NiMh its the same story. Before I bother doing a solder job and replacing the contacts, is there a simple easy fix I'm missing? Many thanks guys

Hi thanks for the help. The 21.4mm nozzle fits brilliantly with no feeding issues in semi or auto. Hopefully the little extra length creates a better air seal with the hop unit Many thanks guys

HI guys, would any of you know how to disassemble the Ares stubby mags? They are not like other mags in that there is no hex screw on the bottom holding the units to the outer. There are however two tabs at the top, front and back, but even depressing both the unit wont shift. I feel if I were to prise it much further I could damage it. Any advice would be great Thanks and stay safe

Hi, I'm doing my first bit of teching and upgrading. I'm working on a V2 gearbox inside an ASG Amralite M15. The cylinder and cylinder head had a very poor seal so I'm replacing the head and nozzle. The current plastic nozzle, measured with calipers, is 20.5mm though the replacement aluminium nozzle is 21.4mm. Is the 0.9mm difference likely to have any negative effect to loading the bb into the hop chamber? Many thanks 😊