Hudson Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 I'd get an Omega nub too, sometimes the panthera nubs don't work as well, so best to have both. I'd order a lower powered spring too, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 27, 2020 Author Share Posted May 27, 2020 @Hudson Roger add a M130 and a Omega nub to the list of dooooom oh yea something nice happened this afternoon - free packet of bacon fries too NOM NOM!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 I'd go m140 personally, but congratulations! Hope you enjoy it! 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 Cheers @Hudson I no doubt will do once we are all allowed to I am thinking about just doing the inner barrel, hop-up unit and the rubbers first, then do the spring/cylinder/piston once I’ve placated the “Boss who must be obeyed” with a trinket or something that shines, she doesn’t understand taking a brand new item to pieces the second you get it 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 @Steveocee exactly how much persuasive force do I need to use to separate the barrel from the hop-up unit ? i have removed the top cover, spring, pin, large & small screws but by all that is holy the barrel doesn’t want to pull off like it seems to in all the breakdown videos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 4 hours ago, MiK said: Cheers @Hudson I no doubt will do once we are all allowed to I am thinking about just doing the inner barrel, hop-up unit and the rubbers first, then do the spring/cylinder/piston once I’ve placated the “Boss who must be obeyed” with a trinket or something that shines, she doesn’t understand taking a brand new item to pieces the second you get it 🤔 You said you ordered a new hop unit and barrel set up didn't you? If so, there's not really any reason not to replace it. Just don't disassemble the stock hop & barrel set - up and leave it in the box the gun came in. That way you'll be good if you want to compare. You can leave the cylinder set up as it is for now, and see what kind of power & performance you get. The outer barrel on the MK23 should just come off, although it will be a bit tight. A thumbnail or watch screwdriver to start it off and it should come if needed, though you should be able to slide it off by hand. I'd leave the two small screws on until you've done that though, just in case it comes apart & you drop/lose some of the bits inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 I haven’t ordered the rifle parts yet just the bits for the MK and I’ll pop those two screws back on and give some small screwdriver love action to the MK’s outer barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveocee Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 @MiK Quite a bit first time apart. I give mine a bit of top to bottom wiggle as well which normally helps. It'll ease up after a few separations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 @Steveocee Yea definitely needed more loving than any upgrade vid I’ve watched ^^ I have managed to pop that off and got into it, I’ve added the Maple Leaf 150 and Autobot hop rubber with a H-arm (I bought that as I didn’t want to play balancebeam with the I/H-key and hop arm game with phat fingers) and got the TDC on no problems but what now caught me out is that the ASG outer barrel has the same issue that the stock TM does - it’s not wide enough to take a extended inner barrel - looks like it’s the STTI one is the wide-boi when it’s comes to barrel openings and of course I don’t have a 8mm drill bit handy - so it’s off to Toolstation/Screwfix tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Dug mine out, need to make a start on doing a better rifle wrap & paint job for it whilst I have plenty of free time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 @Hudson Nice 👍🏻 a quick extra question is it worth sticking the metal pin back in ? It needed a bit of hammer action to get out or will the barrel be ok with it left out ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Leave it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 Oki doki a little tappy-tap-tap action to get that back in but I think I’ll test hop/feed before I do it - just in case I’ve bodged something up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveocee Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 I'll be super angry if the stti is wide enough. I have a 133 in my stti and drilled my asg to get the 150 in. If I could have swapped I'll be annoyed, not going to try it for my own sanity. 8mm drill bit but you need to give it a bit of a wiggle to make sure, unused the standard barrel to test the gap rather than scratching up my bling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 @Steveocee It’s what’s been mentioned on a few MK23 upgrade vids I’ve watched over the past week or so 😕 I have just ordered a 8mm bit & a needle file set from toolstation for click’n’collect in the morning - only £6.79 in total which should do the jobbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leadly Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 I'll be keeping an eye on this! Payday has struck and I need a silent sidearm! Torn between genuine TM or a copy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 Ok been to collect the bits n bobs and going very very slowly drilling/filing and putting back together - mods are done (admittedly I have to open it all back up to put that pin back in). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 @leadly Gun Cost £55 from PB and £103.83 (including all postage) in parts & .40 BB’s from LongbowBB & Skirmshop NL - excluding green gas/bits needed to mod the gun like a drill bit etc I've just chrono’ed it - And it was 325-345 ave 335 with it untouched but went to 337.8-344.3 ave 341.4 with about half a turn of the TDC nubs - admittedly they really shot out well but by hell they flew up cloud bound I slapped some 0.40’s in and got 229.2-264.8 ave about 240.8 - I was around the 0.98-1.30 ave about 1.08 joules I forgot to reset the chrono for the heavier BB’s /nubcake but the 0.40’s flew like a laser - dead straight at about 40 metres \o/ first shot is from the unit then I remembered I had the Acetech chrono app for my Tracer unit 😗 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveocee Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 3 hours ago, leadly said: I'll be keeping an eye on this! Payday has struck and I need a silent sidearm! Torn between genuine TM or a copy! TM is supposedly "nicer" quality but if you rip most of the internals out then copy all the way. You can use a TM in it's standard form with just a TDC and get superb results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 Oki doki - I’m back!! (‘sorry for disappearing mid build) All the parts have been sat idling for the last two months on my bench but due to serious real life stuff (not the C-19 thang) having to support my Wife and family after Emma’s brother collapsed one Monday morning and ended up in a coma - he is awake now and in a hospital closer to home but we can’t visit (FU C-19) and things have settled down family wise to a point I can turn some of my attention to the T10 that was/is collecting dust. So I actually did buy the following from SkirmshopNL Maple Leaf Omega Nub Tensioner Maple Leaf Autobot Bucking 75° Maple Leaf Autobot Bucking 70° Maple Leaf 430mm Crazy Jet Innenlauf für VSR MARUI VSR-10 FN-SPR Action Army VSR10 / T10 Hopup Chamber Laylax PSS10 High Pressure Piston (Zero Trigger Version) For VSR-10 Bolt Action Rifle Series Action Army Twisted Cylinder For VSR10/T10 - Silver Grey STALKER Panthera Concave Nub Set (3pcs) I'm gonna get on to it this weekend, so I’m gonna hit up the YouTube for some how-to’s and finding out what lubricants is needed where/which parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 Dumb question (spose it isn’t if you know) as most YT vids seem to “gloss” over what they/you should use ..... What lubricant should I use on the Spring guide ? Spring ? Piston ? Cylinder ? oh and with the PSS10 piston do I leave the white “pokey nozzle” on it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leadly Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 I used a small squirt of Wd-40's white lithium grease. A little seemed to go a long way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 @leadly Was that on everything or just the spring or piston ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Samurai Posted September 4, 2020 Supporters Share Posted September 4, 2020 Lithium grease on springs and trigger stuff, silicone oil on O ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiK Posted September 5, 2020 Author Share Posted September 5, 2020 Do I keep this screwed in or take it off ? lots of pistons don’t seem to have that solid peg (it’s not a nozzle) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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