Build (a list of parts for) my gun for me!

[Tiercel]

So back when I first started airsofting many years ago, there wasn't really much choice in terms of upgrade parts, now it seems everyone and their mum makes their own brand of parts and I don't know whats what anymore. 

 

I currently have a Specna Arms HK416c, its pretty good, could be better could be worse - and that's what I want to change. I want to to be better. In every way. So what do I put in it? 

Obviously "what am best part 4 gun" is a very vague question, and 10 people will give 12 different answers, but a general consensus of what I need to be looking at doing, and what brands are good/to avoid would be nice. 

 

For instance I can find little to no information on the Guarder 6.02mm barrels, JBU I've never heard of, they look cheap but full of extreme reviews - theyr'e either 11/10 best barrel ever or 1/10 waste of money. There's hundreds of different types, styles, materials etc of hop rubbers now and I don't even know what the differences are between 50/60/70 degrees etc are.

 

My plan for it is to use it for my dedicated woodland gun, so running it as close to 350fps as possible and with the absolute maximum consistency, range & accuracy. I'm happy to replace pretty much everything and anything, and know what I'm doing inside a gearbox. Just the sheer availability of parts and what-does-what now is blowing my mind. When I started your choice for upgrades was a madbull barrel, or a prometheus if you could afford it. And a guarder clear hop rubber. And that was about it. So my chief requirements are range, accuracy and consistency. I'd also like to increase the rate of fire and trigger response as I feel it's a little bit lethargic and could be quicker, so probably looking at fitting a mosfet too and uprated motor. I mostly use semi-auto and very short bursts of full auto when needed, so I don't need a BRRRRRRRRRRT 70RPS monster, but I would like a nice snappy crisp trigger response and slightly faster ROF. Its currently totally stock, and running it on 7.4v Lipo. 

[Alunduk]

As for hop, bucking, barrel combos it really does seem to be personal preference. The only way to really find something you want is trial and error I know that's not what you want to hear but the old logic of "you get what you pay for" still rings true mostly. Search the forum for loads of info. As for trigger response and ROF a mosfet and 11.1v lipo should sort that out. then depending on budget. A new motor I swear by Lonex A1's.

[Tiercel]

I know a lot of people used to really praise the TM EG1000 "hyper" motors, not sure how they compare for price. Saw Z1 are currently selling Systema motors reduced from £80 to £35 which seems like a bargain, but not sure about them. 

 

11.1v lipos seem a bit overkill! but worth a shot for a laugh, friend has one I can try but not one that will fit in a HK416 stock. Ive had trouble finding replacement batteries small enough to fit in the stock, only the Specna Arms one it came with seems to fit, the normal nunchuck lipos I have for all my other guns are too chunky, I think I need a streamlined one with fairly low mAH to fit. Really not a fan of ugly battery bags on the outside of the stock and untidy wiring, so fitting neatly inside is an absolute must.

[Sitting Duck]

Pete - AK2M4 on here got these in early Feb - all gone it seems

but one of best motors under £30 (when they are in stock)

 

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/ra-high-torque-motor-long

 

With one of those you could get 18 to 20rps on just 7.4v lipo on std 18:1 gears

Or up to say 24rps on higher speed gears on 7.4v (with a good rewire/mosfet/deans etc...)

 

With a "balanced" motor like the RA/oem SHS torque (it isn't a slow ultra torque motor)

With one of those you do not need 11.1v in most cases to get some snappy response

a 28k-30k is what most refer to as a balanced motor and will put some zest in your gun

(without the need for bigger 11.1v lipo's)

 

DO NOT BUY A HIGH SPEED MOTOR if you can help it

they just draw more amps which zaps your battery quicker and runs warmer

 

not the absolute gospel but just imho you want a 30k-ish motor

not a 20k or a crazy 40k, the 30k balanced motor is just about right for most builds

 

PM Pete on here, or FaceBook or whatever and ask when he is getting some more in

They sell out quickly, even got people from EU ordering good stuff like these from him

Seriously doubt if you will find a better bang for your buck on motors

Sure there are others like the Infinity motors but they are about 50% more

 

Just my take on motors - avoid Big Dragon M160 or oem red deal extreme motors

(they run so damn warm you can cook eggs on your pistol grip)

 

happy shooting

[Hangtight]

First thing is to decide on what you actually want out of the gun. Trigger response? What rate of fire? Mainly semi auto, full auto or burst fire?

[Tiercel]

1 hour ago, Hangtight said:

First thing is to decide on what you actually want out of the gun. Trigger response? What rate of fire? Mainly semi auto, full auto or burst fire?

 

 

All of which I answered in the original post  except specifying an exact RoF I guess, because I dont really have one in mind. All I know is the current one is somewhat sluggish, dont really have any way of measuring it. One of my mates has a chrono Ill try and pinch to see what its RPS is. 

 

Basically I want a nice snappy trigger action, with accurate mostly semi woodland shooting. 

 

 

[Hangtight]

In which case, if you want to stick with 7.4v then a 16TPA motor, 13:1 gears and a Mosfet. That will give you good trigger response and around 20rps.

Starting at the budget end you could choose either a Rocket Airsoft or SHS high torque motor, with SHS gears and a Sparklabs Basic mosfet. The Specna Arms wiring is already pretty good, but soldering short, flexible wires to the motor contacts and using RC 4mm bullet connectors lowers resistance a bit and makes for a more reliable motor connection. A Cyma metal rack piston, angle of engagement adjustment, shimming and decent lubrication ensure longevity.

At the other end of the scale the SHS gears hold up, but the motor is an ASG CNC U30000. Mosfet is a Gate Titan which offers you programmable fire control settings, so your full auto setting gives you a X round burst with a trigger tap or full auto if you hold the trigger down.Or perhaps you fancy a AUG style two stage trigger with single shot at a half trigger pull and full auto as the trigger is pulled right back. Or a hair trigger....Then there's the pre cocking for instant trigger response, and if you want to change any settings you plug your phone in and use the app, which takes seconds.

There's nothing wrong with the stock SA hop up or barrel. Your budget option is a clean and polish, together with a Modify Flat Hop and nub used with decent 0.28g BBs. If you want to step it up a notch then a Prometheus barrel with Rhop works well. Either way porting a new cylinder to match the air volume with the barrel length and BB weight gets you the best shot to shot consistency.

[Davegolf]

Alot of good info right there, to the OP think about how you play and then you can tailor the gun characteristics benefit you whilst not burning your wallet if there is no need.

 

Are you a running Rambo burst and auto'ing?

Do you play tactically on semi only going auto for assualt or SHTF situations?

Do you recon around picking of players?

How much tech'ing have you done?

 

I always start with a decent battery, re wire and 'FET.

That shows the true colours of your standard gearbox / motor / trigger etc

 

A typical woodland build for me is on the cheaper side of Hangtights advice;

Decent barrel; standard TM, Prommy or PDI

Get a chrono

Get a couple of bucking and nub options

Before going inside the gearbox spend some time testing and trying different combos to achieve best fps consitency and target accuracy.

 

Do one section at a time, youll get results faster with your efforts focused.

 

Then think about the gearbox

 

 

 

[Tiercel]

Thats all a very good start and tonnes of reading to do! 

 

Tactical sneaky semi auto is very much my thing, I've cut my loadout down from 10 hicap mags when I first started playing years ago, to 3 midcaps and that normally lasts me most of the day! 

Problem is living in a flat in London, finding somewhere I can privately test a guns accuracy and range is difficult at the best of times, without armed police knocking my door down  

 

Tech-wise Ive done a lot of simple repair work, and direct replacements for GB internals, I'm quite happy opening up and going inside GBs but I've not really dabbled in the upgrade side of things like different gear ratios, AoE etc I've never really bothered with as a I dont quite understand what I'm doing and that seems like a recipe for a broken gun!  I've always been reluctant to put a Fet in myself, as whilst I can solder to an acceptable standard, Im worried of melting the trigger plate as it looks like thin flimsy easily melted plastic, but after buying a gun with a Fet fitted 2nd hand and seeing how incredible it is, I need one in all my guns now. 

 

Porting cylinders is something Ive heard a lot about but dont really know much about either, same with R/flat hop etc, it looks like something thats easy to balls up and break! Are there any particularly good, well explained idiot-proof guides to the above? 

[Prisce]

YouTube is your friend. Have a search and learn a little about everything your interested in. I have been recommended the Airsoft Tech videos on Youtube(he’s a yank), he is informative, and explains simply why you do everything and how.

[Davegolf]

Well you wanted a list so... with your gamplay, aformentioned requirements and assumed skill i would;

 

INNER BARREL: http://wolfarmouries.co.uk/prometheus-eg-6-03mm-inner-barrel-275-5mm-hk416d.html

 

SPRING: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/guarder-aeg-tuneup-spring-sp100

 

CYLINDER: Polish the inside of your existing one if in good condition.

 

CYLINDER HEAD: https://airlab.parts/products/cylinder-head

 

NOZZLE:https://airlab.parts/products/lonex-air-seal-nozzle?variant=739256235

 

TAPPET: https://airlab.parts/products/lonex-tappet-plate

 

PISTON: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-pom-piston--slice

 

PISTON HEAD: https://www.leesprecision.com/collections/aeg-internal-parts/products/cnc-machined-v2-v3-acetal-airbrake-piston-head-aoe-shims (CUT OFF AIR BRAKE)

 

MOTOR: 16TPA

BUDGET: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/ra-high-torque-motor-long

VERY NICE: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ultimate-infinity-cnc-u30000-long-motor-high-torque

 

GEARS: 18:1

BUDGET: Stock with the addition of https://airlab.parts/products/lonex-sector-clip-delayer

VERY NICE: https://airlab.parts/products/lonex-gears + https://airlab.parts/products/lonex-sector-clip-delayer

 

BATTERY: 7.4V 20-25c discharge Turnigy or equivalent battery

 

LUBE: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI

 

That is a full build but will build up to be a lovely smooth gearbox, with excellent seal, longevity, excellent trigger response and a nice ROF of circa 20 that wont give any grief mag feeding or overspin / pre engagement wise.

And it will launch a 0.28g BB lovely.

 

All of that will drop in, you wont have to file the piston, port the cylinder or any of that faff, the most involved thing you would have to do mechanically would be shimming it, but biggest challenge for you could be wiring it??

 

BUCKING & NUB: Down to you, so varied, do some research decide whats in budget IE get someone to R hop for you or try a conventional bucking nub combo.

 

HOP UNIT: I havnt played with Specna hop units, someone may be able to shed some light on wether thats good out of the box, i know its made of metal so thats a good start. There may be better options for larger hop window access too.

 

MOSFET: Again down to you, want to wire it or get someone to do it?

Cheap Gate PICO AAB all the way to Gate TITAN.

 

Do i get a jamie dodger or something now?

[Tiercel]

Perfect, thats pretty much exactly what I wanted No need to think for myself!