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About Alunduk

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    AF-UK Newbie

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  • Guns
    AM013 - Honeybadger <br />
    WE27 - Baby Glock<br />
    APS UAR <br />
    PPS M870
  • Location

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  1. Don't forget the foundry at Leeds Airsoft. It's close to kill house and the layout constantly evolves. It's on the site of Johnsons surplus supplies which is not a bad place for some gear if you starting. Link The Foundry Just remembered, Cerberus airsoft hold events at various sites there is one coming up soonish at Bawtrey paintball fields in Bawtry Forest, Great N Rd, Bawtry, Doncaster DN10 6DG, right on your door step. Our "squad" is bringing about 10 down in april
  2. I agree keep away from backpacks! I have managed to get everything in the top box before but I had to split my honey badger in half to do it. It wasn't worth it and after a fast paced cqb day I struggled to get my leg over the damn thing to get home. Everyone laughed
  3. Hey guys I've got one of these bad boys installed in a v3 gearbox I agree with the general consensus, it's awesome. I keep hearing people thinking about the programming card. For some reason probably to get you to spend more they don't advertise the fact they have an app for your phone. use the usb module with a micro usb to micro usb cable. You can do everything you can on a pc.
  4. it's more the output valve but yes as long as they function the same UPDATE : added guide to top post
  5. Or is your anywhere near me (Leeds) I've got a box of mystery springs your welcome to try out
  6. I would check it on a chrono and put a few rounds through to allow the spring to settle. If it tested 350 at the factory chances are after a few mags through it will drop to 335-345. I would warn against cutting springs down, yes it works in the short term but they have ground flat ends for a reason it will cause premature spring guide wear. If it's a quick change just throw a new one in for a £10
  7. As for hop, bucking, barrel combos it really does seem to be personal preference. The only way to really find something you want is trial and error I know that's not what you want to hear but the old logic of "you get what you pay for" still rings true mostly. Search the forum for loads of info. As for trigger response and ROF a mosfet and 11.1v lipo should sort that out. then depending on budget. A new motor I swear by Lonex A1's.
  8. For anyone that has been having problems with WE Co2 mags I have found a solution that I've been running for 8 months no problems at all. This will work for pistol and rifle mags as the modification is to the valve. I have had ongoing problems from new with these valves either a slow leak when filled or a large leak after a shot draining the remaining bulb. When buying new seal kits I have found the quality of the replacements varies wildly on the green lip seal, but I would say from the many many I have bought 2/10 are usable I've tried new o-rings and seal kits to no avail, soaked them in grenade weight oil over a day to get them to swell. Measured and cleaned everything and still nothing. I can get them to seal until you start firing then the leak comes back. When I do get one to seal correctly the life span of the seals is terrible and there seems to be a tiny leak with them. My biggest issue with this is when you draw a mag later on in the day...click..nothing. I have made some custom valves for my pistol mags (don't try this at home) but stumbled on this method on another forum in a very sketchy post, almost anyone can do this at home with minimal tooling.Co2 capsules can be dangerous! injection injuries are not a joke, make sure the mag is empty before continuing. Seriously if there is any doubt in your ability to do this safely DO NOT CONTINUE! When testing wear goggles and keep your hands away from the valve, if something goes wrong those little 25g co2 bulbs contain 60bar or 900psi This solution requires modifying your valve. If you are not confident in your ability don't try this without at least other mags or a spare valve. If you balls it up its not my problem.remove the valve from the mag remove the green o-ring and throw it away, whoever designed them was not on point that day.remove the step from the bottom of the valve body (that the green o-ring sat over) - I used a file then fine grade wet and dry then scotchbrite to polish the surface.Place an o-ring 4mm ID and as thick a cross section as you can find 2mm C/S works imperial o-rings @ ID 3.5mm c/s 2.6mm are even better (use EPDM rubber it performs down to -50 degrees)- I have also found the red o-rings for the top of the valve work if you have spares. always soak new o-rings in silicone oil before assembling preferably overnight.Drop your o-ring into the valve well and sit the modified valve body on topReassemble the valve Enjoy 60-90 shots depending on FPS and efficiency with a mag that will hold a fully charged capsule overnight easily You can get a pack of 50 o-rings fro ebay for £8, so far after the mods my mags will cope with 60 shots through by big ass heavy scar. lasted 2 full days with just a drop of oil pre-game day as you should be doing anyway. By that I mean I have tested a mag 2.5 days after the bulb being installed and got 2.5 full mags aprox 70 roundsGuide if anyone is interested LINKAdam
  9. Having been around still selling without changes for along time, while still producing enough stock that they are not rare. Pretty sure your answering your own question. PS I also enjoy free money. If this is legit and not a scam your best way to have a functional gun is to repair the g&g correctly I have uprated the gearbox in a friends and it's the most reliable gun in our group, you could pour sand down the barrel and it would continue to chug through mags. I would love stranger to give me money to buy new kit but it's not going to happen.
  10. It will run on anything between 5v-20v so there are a few options for testing I've been using a 9v and it lasts for a 4 hours. It's pretty sturdy as it's 90% hot glue! the aduino unit is pretty well protected but we'll see. I do like the bluetooth idea for changing parameters on the fly but, I am working on a version with buttons for changing the time and game type on the unit itself. I understand that any out put could be used in conjunction with a detonator, but this is also true for any electrical device. The main problem with making a prop bomb is it looks like a bomb, Hence why it is heavily marked as a prop
  11. Hello all, I've been playing around with some objective based game ideas and have seen the prop bombs about, either on instructables or for sale on a few sites. I'm pretty good at things like this so I thought I'd have a go myself. It is built with bits I had laying around and an arduino uno total cost is around £20. The code is available online in various versions but mine is heavily edited to remove some bugs and update some functions I wanted. The brief was :- Arming code that can be set (for a find the intelligence in X building and use to diffuse the bomb in Y building type scenario) Portable but with a tether that can be activated (so that the bomb can only be activated in certain areas) Adjustable countdown (for game length) Looks real enough that when you first see it you think twice (but not to much so my door gets kicked in by a government agency) Simple to use and reset Incorrect code triggers a 2 min penalty deducted from the timer. It has a built in siren that is rated at 120Db (you know when it has exploded take it from me). and a relay switch designed to detonate a smoke grenade on detonation through an electronic fuse. This one is finished just need to test it in the field. I was tempted to put a series of wires that can be removed in order to disarm the timer but thought it would be a nightmare to reset. Any ideas/thoughts to improve??? DISCLAIMER - THIS IS NOT REAL AND WAS HEAVILY MARKED AS A PROP AFTER THESE PICTURES WERE TAKEN. IT WAS CREATED FOR AIRSOFT GAMES ONLY.
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