JG G36c

[emilianoksa]

I learned on the web that at some time in the past JG were in trouble, and scaled back on the guns they were producing.

 

Apparently ASG started to use the JG sourced guns to produce their own G36c. However the ASG badged guns were made with an inferior plastic which cracked easily, and had other problems.

 

So, since the original JG G36c seems to be widely available again, I wondered if the current version of the gun is made to the same specs as the original. Does it have the same reliability and build quality? I understand the first guns were made with a very solid plastic that was made to last..

[Samurai]

Current JG G63s are good.

[emilianoksa]

Thanks. That's reassuring to know.

[Sitting Duck]

On 2/11/2018 at 6:17 PM, emilianoksa said:

I learned on the web that at some time in the past JG were in trouble, and scaled back on the guns they were producing.

 

Apparently ASG started to use the JG sourced guns to produce their own G36c. However the ASG badged guns were made with an inferior plastic which cracked easily, and had other problems.

 

So, since the original JG G36c seems to be widely available again, I wondered if the current version of the gun is made to the same specs as the original. Does it have the same reliability and build quality? I understand the first guns were made with a very solid plastic that was made to last..

 

in 2013 the JG G36 was discontinued in USA due to to trademarks which Umarex have monopoly on

THAT is why JG G36's & some others are not sold new by major US retailers

In fact due to this US G36's are a lot more expensive as they have to sell licensed ones

 

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/mk-g36s-discontinued.68179/

 

In the last few years JG have added a unique spring guide (no ball bearing) with a grub screw in it

this basically can compress the spring a smidge more altering the final spring compression/fps slightly

 

 

Cyma have recently entered the market in this gun - not played with one but I'd still give JG G36 the edge

However the JG & Cyma COL & selector plates are slightly different

and in this area JG G36's may require a little modding if/when tweaking but nowt major

Also JG v3's can accept g36 cylinder heads with "lug" 

 

 

where as the Cyma v3's can not I'm pretty sure Cyma's have to use "regular" heads without lug like on most boxes

 

As far as I can tell Cyma have tried to make their G36 a little more universal with certain parts

But I'd still give JG the edge due to better stock parts:

Cylinder head & piston head - deffo JG

Gears - impressed how strong & smooth JG gears run

Motor - perhaps JG is rated better as it is likely a 22tpa vs a 28 Cyma tpa

 

There are a few niggles - the JG G36 might still have a "pronged" trigger switch which needs bridging if issues arise

(also common problem on other guns too - bridge is ok for mosfet but thicker bridge required for non-mosfet guns)

 

 

The pic is a HPA conversion but you get the idea

As long as you know most of each gun's qwirks (and most/nearly all guns have qwirks)

then you can overcome most of these qwirks - forewarned is forearmed as they say

 

The US restriction on G36's must have hurt JG as it was one of their better selling models with US being a large market

& the yanks were a bit miffed to be fair with s/hand JG G36's still holding their money over there

We have similar issues in US/EU with 416 trades - Umarex again, but can still buy D-Boy 614's (no trades)

(unsure why numerous non trade G36's were pulled in US but hey ho....)

and more recently Glock being ar$ey that AEP Cyma glocks CM030 or whatever being revised to CM127

 

Think it was more to do with trades & wotnot that some JG sales suffered - well in USA at least

[Rogerborg]

Since the thread has been necroed, I might as well fire in and opine that the stock performance of my JG G36 isn't quite as good as my cheaper CYMA M4.  I mean, before I "over optimised" the M4, which is why I have the JG.

 

It's not bad, but the motor is whiny and sounds like it's struggling (the RoF is about 8 rps), the hop is rather fussy and doesn't seem to want to stay dialled in, and the grouping is fairly poor.  Yes, I've cleaned the barrel.

 

It's usable and I prefer its ergonomics.  The folding stock is ace, the integral iron sights are superior, and the windy-tensioner (which doesn't seem to be mentioned in the owner's manual) is interesting.  But the performance is no better than the CYMA, based on a sample set of two guns.

[Sitting Duck]

Reason for necro-ing a bit was coz I was searching for stuff on G36's due to COL & selector plate

had discovered recently about the US G36's a few days ago after seeing very little recent US JG's

 

Then there was the difference between the Cyma/JG G36's COL after replacing with SHS steel one

See there are two types of v3 COL's and JG uses the silver type in their G36 - no extra material

Where as the SHS & other general v3 COL's come with an extra 3mm underneath

This is fine for say AK's as semi position is cut really low on AK selectors so it drops into position for semi

However Cyma use the re-enforced or extra COL and have their G36 plate cut really low to drop into semi

JG however use their silver non re-enforced COL and higher cut selector plate

 

pics say 1,000 words......

 

 

see the extra material on the black SHS steel COL

 

NOW the Cyma G36 box - look at COL and how low the selector plate is cut....

 

 

now you may not see that clearly and not a load of Cyma pics about but here is another from Begadi

 

 

Oddly enough if you buy a SHS COL & a SHS G36 selector plate you are going to need to mod them

The SHS COL has the extra underneath BUT SHS G36 selector is along the JG style cut much higher

So in use will not allow the SHS v3 COL to drop correctly to use semi....

 

 

see how high the selector plate is cut compared to Cyma's clear plate....

 

 

Where as when you look at the usual AK selector plate - the semi "drop" or semi/auto is cut MUCH LOWER

That is coz it is designed to be used with the re-enforced COL or the one with "extra" lug underneath.....

 

 

So I was looking around after discovering the usual WTF TM Compatibility bolloxs we often find

Suffice to say I either mod the SHS COL - dremmel as it is steel not alloy, mod the JG/SHS selector

or most likely a bit of both checking it all operates correctly - bummer but hey there ya go

better to find out sooner rather than later I guess, but SHS COL really works - perhaps too well

(I might even have to reduce the cam or rather the COL follower as it pops asap and pops very high (too high))

 

Back onto the gun itself......

 

Most China £100 guns are not assembled to a high precision std, TWG probably get these for say £50/60 or there abouts

Not uncommon to find some guns missing a nub in hop, even had a Cyma M4 missing a rear receiver bolt but no biggy

(had a spare set of pins, used the receiver pin through box on other gun)

 

Shimming in most guns, like hop assembly is at best meehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

sometimes f*cking dire like a Galaxy MP5k - f*ck me I thought the teeth were chipping off each other

rare moments you get lucky, some shoot really good out of box but often it is average to poor if unlucky

 

I bought 2 x Cyma 028a tactical AK's and one of them was hitting a tin at end of garden say 3 or 4 times out of 5 shots

The other - meeehhhhhhh not so great maybe just one on target & rest close but varying left/right

So like most guns/new cars - no two are exactly identical

 

Both the Cyma & JG barrels are 6.08's but the crown on Cyma's are good for a stock barrel that I will always give credit

 

The motor though, JG's are "supposed" to be usually 22tpa JG Blue - even on oem's neo or ferrite motors

but manufacturers do chop n change stuff from time time to time, but still many say they should be 22tpa

Without doubt though the Cyma stock motor is a slower motor with 27/28tpa like G&G std grey 18k motor in Raiders

 

The noise - well slapped together shimming, plus the motor angle - don't forget on v3's with motor cages

You can loosen and alter the angle a little to help with pinion/bevel meshing - not a great deal but can help

 

The G36c is a great floater gun that doesn't get enough respect/mention at times

The ambi fire for lefties, folding stock for CQB and easily unfold for general mid range assault work

Still loads of others like the Sig or G3's among others get forgotten about too

 

I'm just looking into the box a bit atm, the hop unit is no doubt something a little loose a tighten or say ptfe tape

No £90 gun will be perfect out of the box, but considering some of the crap at JBBG etc...

The odd bit of attention here n there is little to worry about - as I said I had a rear receiver pin missing from a CM517

 

The JG cylinder head should be a double o-ring and

the piston head is best stock one I've come across so far in cheapo/mid range guns I think

 

Gears - they do turn nicely, better than Cyma's and bevel will mesh better with most pinions than Cyma #1 bevel

I'd say shimming or most likely motor angle is out if it is still sounding rough tbh

 

The adjustment on spring guide - it is a two piece metal v3 spring guide and you might need a long allen key

don't ask me what size - could be 2 or 2.5 or maybe 3mm max, but it goes in and winds the grub screw

this pushes the two parts apart and increases the final tension on spring's release upping the fps a smidge

personally I found it a bit hit & miss when I first tried it but was likely turning the wrong way or something

Think I might just replace with v3 bearing spring guide and use the JG one in a cheapo Cyma M4 build maybe

 

But atm it is the steel COL and or selector plate I need to decide which one I attack first

But was shocked JG & others had to pull their G36's in the States - guess we do OK then with cheap G36's in UK/EU

[Rogerborg]

2 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:

the crown on Cyma's are good for a stock barrel that I will always give credit

 

Mine might have been until I hacksawed it off and recrowned it by drilling a Phillips screwdriver bit covered in toothpaste into it.

 

I'm seeing if I can make you flinch.

[MisterG]

I like my G36C, though it's not a JG one, it shape and weight suit me. 

 

Will be using as my first project gun, but will create a new thread rather than a total hijack of a necro thread 😉.

 

Cheers

G

[emilianoksa]

Necro or not, thanks for all the useful information.