HPA setup questions

[LordGeorge]

Hey all

 

After a fruitfull year shooting and getting shot with AEG's im planning on moving to HPA.

More specifically a Daytona HPA. Personally the best by far when it comes to "Realism","please note the abreviation" in airsoft.

Polarstars are a heap of fun but create too much stigma between players regarding the RPS and the pain caused by naughty boys cheating the system.

Appart from the smp/wolverine type systems i really wanted a working botl carrier etc..

End of rant..

 

I am drawing the inital plans on kit which include the following.

 

Gun: Undecided

HPA: TNKGUN "Daytona"

Tank:Guerrilla Air MYTH PRO 62ci / 3000psi

Regulator: Redline firebase

Backpack: Undecided

 

I would really like anyone with the experience of the HPA enviroment to give their ideas and thoughts as it is quite a pricey investment.

This is the initial plan and have no plans to upgrade gun internals like r-hop,wide bore untill settled.

 

I have been looking at the camelbak packs but simply cant justify the cost for a bag, any recemdations would be awsome!

 

Would be ace to hear from you guys as i embark on this mamoth of a quest.

 

Cheers

George

[proffrink]

I know you've probably been told this, but Daytona Gun kits are very expensive and can require a fair bit of expertise to install depending on the kit you buy. If this is your first HPA build then you're going to incur more costs for the line, refill tank etc. that you may not have considered. Just worth bearing in mind before you dive in - hell of a lot of fun though.

My accumulation of knowledge for the DG stuff thus far. Going from their discussion forum on Facebook, advice from Tony Rizzo (who builds and distributes them) and others:

• Get a 4500psi for a DG - they eat a lot of air (especially during the break in where you're going to need to be shooting it a lot to get through those 8000rds). Would also recommend bigger than 62cl if you go for the M249 or M240 kits - Guerilla do a 88cl/4500psi too but I think it may have been discontinued
• Do not try to import a tank from the US - pressured containers cannot be transported by Royal Mail or Parcelforce and the hydro testing standards can be different (explained later)
• Consider a 300bar (for the 4500psi) or 232bar (for the 3000psi) scuba tank for refills or you're going to be doing a lot of driving if your site doesn't offer refills. Check eBay - I got mine for just shy of £100 and they're about £200+ new, so there are good deals out there
• Be aware of what 'hydro testing' is when it comes to both your tank and possibly your scuba cylinder. The majority of pressured air containers are hydro tested every 5 years and expire after 20 - so if you buy something second hand then find out its 'born date' (when it was made) and when it was last serviced
• Remember to buy a refilling station if you go for a scuba tank. Get one that fits DIN if you go with a 300 bar cylinder or Yoke if you go for a 232 bar (again though, would not recommend 232 bar as that would mean a 3000psi tank)
• Make sure you have a single quick detach Redline - order direct from TNK Guns if you need to. Amped Airsoft also do customer Firebases for DG, but in the UK they are double QDs which will require slight modding. Double QD restricts the air flow - this is fine for other HPA setups, but the DG needs a lot of air
• Consider a Ninja regulator over the Guerilla. Even the G3 isn't that brilliant from what I've been told on the DG group and they all swear by the Ninja Pro (and Pro V2) regs
• If you want to remove the G3 reg that comes with your bottle, then you will need an anti-slip mat, big spanner and a heat gun. If not, you need a big spanner and a clamp. Honestly this is more of a problem than it seems. Ask the retailer to provide the tank with the regulator pre-removed if at all possible as adding it back on is super easy
• Backpack wise, I'd consider a small pack like the WAS Cargo Pack - anything that size will hold a tank fine. Anything bigger you won't need for a tank but that's of course up to you if you want it for mags and stuff. I got my pack second hand for £35, which is still quite a bit but it's really very good. It can attach to molle or you can use the straps. It has an elasticated interior too which stops the tank rattling when you run
• Hydration/bladder carrier are also a good idea as you say. Sizes are fairly uniform and you'll be fine if you stick wit ha 62cl, but if you go any higher than you may need a backpack instead
• Wide bore is a good idea. Problem is it's expensive. Prometheus do a 6.20mm barrel for an affordable price, but the plastic hop up window will get smashed to pieces by a DG during the break in. The ORGA Magnus 6.23mm barrels are the only other real choice. I can point you at a good retailer as they're hard to source in the UK, but they're still a lot of money (£50-90 depending on length)
• R-Hop as well if you're going wide bore. You'll get 75m+ out of a broken-in and tuned DG so it's a good idea to do so. I'd recommend the cold weather patches as they are slightly easier to install due to being translucent - also, you can make your own R-Hop material if you don't feel like spending a lot of money
• R-Hop patches can sell out frequently on Airlab and are considerably marked up in price. I'd recommend ordering directly from Hunter Seeker Armouries in the US. You won't pay import duty as they come in an envelope and you can get the installation aid.
• Buy lots of GetSome 1000 when you buy your DG (2-3 bottles). There's no retailer in Europe yet (though that may change soon) and get the needle dropper bottles - trust me
• You will end up paying 20% VAT and import duty unless you were to er, umm... ask Tony to mark the value of your DG differently on the invoice
• Buy a spare DG bucking when you buy your gun. Most people tear theirs during the break-in
• Don't lube your fill nipple as you will quite possibly blow your f*cking arm off when the sheer pressure of the tank ignites the petroleum derivative in your lubricant like a diesel engine. Do not lube the output on the scuba tank (if you get one) as you'll blow this into the tank as well (resulting in the aforementioned issue)

Also with regards to RPS: Daytona Guns will get up to 25-30rps on some builds so the stigma is still there when it comes to overkill in CQB. The recoil makes them a billion times better than other HPA setups though as far as I'm concerned.

Edit
Updated bit about VAT, exploding tanks, tank regulator and removal

[Qlimax]

Is Daytona back in business now ? I know last year they closed. I ask because if they are still closed and something goes wrong don't know if parts would be easily available to fix.

 

HPA is a expensive setup. My first HPA ran me to £1000 and that was before then spending money on the furniture for the base weapon.

 

Personally I'd say for your first HPA start small price wise to see if you actually like it. I know a few guys who went big and ended hating HPA to which when selling there HPA kit they lost a lot of money, Tippmann have recoil and I've had one, brilliant piece of kit for the money.

 

I have a 62/3000 which lasts me half to three quarters of the day. Internal upgrade wise sometimes it's a given. Not all the time but sometimes the standard inner barrel and hop simply won't cut it for HPA, example G&G hop is shocking for HPA it has two small holes either side of the adjuster arm which makes the air seal shocking thus making the performance worse. I've heard hat the best brands to use to HPA is VFC OR G&P.

 

I'd get on some of the Facebook pages there's a wealth of information on them.

[proffrink]

TNK Guns has been around for years now fortunately. They never closed, but the old distributor in the US had a falling out with the manufacturers - Tony assembles them himself though from the milled parts from Asia now AFAIK. It's also worth noting that as it's made of steel, aluminium and brass that they have not been known to break anywhere but the o-rings, crush rings and bucking (which can be obtained easily).

 

Your 62/3000 won't last anywhere near as long on a DG unfortunately. Lots of air is needed to cycle the bolt even on just the rifle kits - you need to be running at about 100-110psi on most kits to put out 350fps. On a typical Polarstar/SMP that would give you over 400 if I'm correct?

 

Here's the FB page.

[LordGeorge]

Wow thanks for your input proffrink !!

Fortunately i have given this much thought as the scuba tank and filler are already sorted for me.

I have had a little cry at the setup costs and have pre taped my rear up, ready for day 1.

I will certainly look at the larger tanks, i did see the larger gurilla tank but the price sky rockets when you hit 4.5k psi on a 88ci tank.

I have sourcd the tank from a UK retailer so no issues with delivery

 

My plan was to take it easy with the tank and use the skuba tank to refill between games, later on i would then look at a beefy tank.

I am actually waiting for my first Z-kit from airlab to come monday for my mk17 AEG, cant wait !

 

The high to low regulator i have been looking at getting from the grangeairsoft which has the QD on it already by the looks of it.

http://www.grangeairsoft.com/hpa-airsoft-accessories-redline-airsoft-fire-base-air-rig-rig-rlfb/dp/225

Thanks for the advice on the tank regulator, something to add to the list

Luckily my boss does diving quite allot so his experience has come in handy.

 

I did stumble across the orga barrels while looking into what setups people go for and was one on my list but not straight away

I have been chatting to tony via email regarding the kits and has been great help, i may very well discuss the import charge .

 

I am pretty handy when it comes to mechanics so the installation shouldnt be too bumpy

 

Cheers for the advice !

 

George

[proffrink]

You're welcome. Only issue I can spot is that Firebase is a double QD - like I said, you want a single QD (i.e. no QD on the regulator; just on the line that goes into your grip/stock etc.). Ask them if they can fit a single QD and remove the one on the regulator itself if you're going for a DG.

[sp00n]

You're welcome. Only issue I can spot is that Firebase is a double QD - like I said, you want a single QD (i.e. no QD on the regulator; just on the line that goes into your grip/stock etc.). Ask them if they can fit a single QD and remove the one on the regulator itself if you're going for a DG.

Just out of interest, what issues can having double QD's cause?

[proffrink]

None with your usual HPA rig, but DGs need much better airflow and the bore of the line is decreased significantly at any quick detach point. It'll knock down your RPS and FPS (probably trigger response as well). It's recommended strongly by the distributor to get a single QD.

[LordGeorge]

Update 1

Got a We Hk416 D donor, should have some fun before hand.
Planned order from TNK guns. Cheers to tony over there, been a great help.

Will most likely order the daytona kit in roughly a month.

Just wanted to query the tank, while browsing on grange airsoft. Found the 100ci 4.5k fibre tanks.

They are clearly strong enough but how do people find them ?
Also as proffrink quoted

 

"Consider a Ninja regulator over the Guerilla. Even the G3 isn't that brilliant from what I've been told on the DG group and they all swear by the Ninja Pro (and Pro V2) regs"

 

I dont know much about regulators, pros/cons besides what they do. Could anyone explain why one regulator is any different from another ?
Excuse my ignorance, early days

Next is does anyone how long the wide bore hose is on the firebase regulator kit ?

Demonstrated : http://www.grangeairsoft.com/hpa-airsoft-accessories-redline-airsoft-fire-base-air-rig-rig-rlfb/dp/225

 

And finaly regarding, having as little QD's on the airline due to the resisance. Wouldnt really cause any problems having a single QD to the gun.
But considering from the tank you woul have 2 points of resisance then two more on the QD's. Would it really make that much of a difference ?
If its the matter of a few rps then no biggy.

 

Cheers

George

[proffrink]

There's the tank regulator (goes right on the tank and doesn't come off very frequently at all) - this is basically just a big old valve with a pressure gauge to tell you what's left in the tank. This is the one I'm talking about when I say get the Ninja Pro V2 - frankly you'd have to ask the DG group about Ninja vs Guerilla - I was new to HPA at the time and simply went with the advice of people who've been doing it for years. They all say to do it with the DG system. My lazy ethos is that if you're buying an HPA rig and gun that's going to be costing you around £850 or more, then you want the absolute best possible as it's going to be stuff you use for ages - that's why I spend an extra £40 to get the Ninja reg on my Guerilla bottle (the bottles being very similar you see). It was a bit of a pain, but it can be done.

 

Then there's the actual regulator that steps down that 4500 or 3000psi to something you can use. It's strongly recommended by the DG guys to go with the Redline firebase that Tony has modified, or the Amped Firebase (again modified with that single QD point for DG). This goes ontop of the bottle's regulator.

 

I think I covered the bit about QDs - ideally zero is best, but that's not going to happen. And yes, it makes a noticeable difference given the bore at the QD points is tiny - this is covered by the FAQ on the Facebook page. You can use an IGL and wide bore line to absolutely maximise airflow, and that's something you should be able to do with the 416.

 

It's a matter of air efficiency too - no one with a proper DG setup uses a dual QD reg and line. It's been tried and tested and you'll get the same answer if you were to ask on the FB page. You cannot cut corners on any part of the DG or you'll be getting a significantly worse product - it must be approached with the knowledge that you're buying basically the most demanding HPA setup around, unfortunately.

 

Edit

Forgot to answer the bit about the tank - that looks good though. Grab it. My tank is a Guerilla 88/4500 - the difference between the tank brands is negligible as the technology isn't really that advanced and they all need to pass the same hydrotesting so they're all the same. Very big that tank though so be aware that it may not fit in some hydration pouches. It looks about the same circumference as mine, but maybe a little taller. If you like I can measure my one so you buy something that will fit it.

 

That should still fit into something like the WAS cargo pack, though the regulator may stick out the top a bit unless you adjust it to sit horizontally (which can be done).

[LordGeorge]

There's the tank regulator (goes right on the tank and doesn't come off very frequently at all) - this is basically just a big old valve with a pressure gauge to tell you what's left in the tank. This is the one I'm talking about when I say get the Ninja Pro V2 - frankly you'd have to ask the DG group about Ninja vs Guerilla - I was new to HPA at the time and simply went with the advice of people who've been doing it for years. They all say to do it with the DG system. My lazy ethos is that if you're buying an HPA rig and gun that's going to be costing you around £850 or more, then you want the absolute best possible as it's going to be stuff you use for ages - that's why I spend an extra £40 to get the Ninja reg on my Guerilla bottle (the bottles being very similar you see). It was a bit of a pain, but it can be done.

 

Then there's the actual regulator that steps down that 4500 or 3000psi to something you can use. It's strongly recommended by the DG guys to go with the Redline firebase that Tony has modified, or the Amped Firebase (again modified with that single QD point for DG). This goes ontop of the bottle's regulator.

 

I think I covered the bit about QDs - ideally zero is best, but that's not going to happen. And yes, it makes a noticeable difference given the bore at the QD points is tiny - this is covered by the FAQ on the Facebook page. You can use an IGL and wide bore line to absolutely maximise airflow, and that's something you should be able to do with the 416.

 

It's a matter of air efficiency too - no one with a proper DG setup uses a dual QD reg and line. It's been tried and tested and you'll get the same answer if you were to ask on the FB page. You cannot cut corners on any part of the DG or you'll be getting a significantly worse product - it must be approached with the knowledge that you're buying basically the most demanding HPA setup around, unfortunately.

 

Edit

Forgot to answer the bit about the tank - that looks good though. Grab it. My tank is a Guerilla 88/4500 - the difference between the tank brands is negligible as the technology isn't really that advanced and they all need to pass the same hydrotesting so they're all the same. Very big that tank though so be aware that it may not fit in some hydration pouches. It looks about the same circumference as mine, but maybe a little taller. If you like I can measure my one so you buy something that will fit it.

 

That should still fit into something like the WAS cargo pack, though the regulator may stick out the top a bit unless you adjust it to sit horizontally (which can be done).

Cheers dude

 

Update 2

 

• HK416 is sitting happily at home and will have its first and most likely only outing this sunday before its broken down for TNK day.
• 7 litre 232 bar tank at home "Still needs hydrotesting" Plan to go to 300bar at a later date.

EDIT

• Actually a 12 litre cylinder not a 7L
• 2.5 litre hydration pack also home "Should fit the momma tank and reg"
• Queued Tony@TNK ready for order of the kit and spares.
• Finalising order with uk seller for 100ci 4500psi guerrilla tank, fill station,wide bore line and firestorm reg.

As i am planning to split the orders into two parts to lessen the blow acorss a few months.

I will go with the single QD plan, my only issue is that i want to order the reg from the UK to help spread the costs, as you said most if not all uk dealers do not sell the redline with a single QD.

Is there much work involded in removing the QD NPT from the reg and hose and installing the threaded NPT ?

I cant imagine there is too much, either way. could anyone shine any light on what i would need ?

 

Also any ideas what input line comes with the DG ? If necisarry and beneficial i can certainly get the IGL.

 

Cheers

George

[proffrink]

Ok, just bear in mind that 232 bar won't give you near to 4500 psi - it'll give you 3300 at most. Take your tank in to the scuba shop with you and see if they can fill that at the same time for you so you at least get one fill at 4500. Did your tank not come with at least a couple of years left on its test?

 

Also, for all Tony's great products he's a terrible communicator. Make it very, very clear what you want as shipping is a lot of money. Get a spare bucking for $20 as these usually cost $20 + $22 shipping (which is insane). He runs a flat rate shipping service, so get everything in one or two goes because if you need to go back you'll have issues. But at least two bottles of GetSome 1000 from him as that's the recommended lube. Ask for the needle bottles as this is easier to apply (I got the spray ones and they're a bit annoying as they can get on the exterior quite easily and it's a pain to wipe off).

 

As for the reg: Ask them to remove the line and preferably just remove the QD that's directly on the reg. If you're buying your wide bore separately then I'm not sure, though recently I've just bought an EU sized QD (which is a larger bore than the crappy US ones) and this may be the better option. They can be had very cheap from HPAirsoft and will go straight on to your Firebase regulator with ease. I had to use two spanners to remove the old hose Tony attached, but it wasn't too much of an issue and I assume the same amount of effort would be required to remove a double QD line - get the wide bore line, the flex fitting (great if you don't plan on buying an IGL from TNK) and a spare EU size QD if you just want to attach to the macro line directly (though it does of course come with one - I just grabbed a spare for an M870 and for repairs as buying in the UK can only be done in sets of 5). I would recommend you not buy the wide bore in the UK as almost all use US QD fittings (surprisingly).

 

Remember when you reattach to preferably have pneumatic sealant (about £8 from eBay) or at the very least some PTFE/Teflon tape. And remember the Techt Gunsav grease for your Firebase. Usual reminder: Don't use oil based lubricants in your HPA setup from tank to end of line to be safe. Using it in your gun is fine but GetSome is very good and not oil based anyway.

 

The input line for the DG is simply a 6mm macro line that all current HPA engines (Polarstar, SMP etc) come with as standard. However, Tony does sell an 'IGL' (grip line) that should fir the 416. This gives better airflow and is harder-wearing plus if you get it from him it'll screw directly onto the engine with no modification - at $20 it's a good idea, but I'm not sure how easy it is to replace the US QD on the end of that with an EU QD if you go with the wide bore line from HPAirsoft. I had no choice with my 249 as it can't fit an IGL anyway. The 6mm macro is weak, and that's why I got the flex fitting from HPAirsoft and was happy with it as an alternative to the IGL that I can't get (which replaces the entire marco line). It fitted in the grip nicely.

 

I've also been told HPAirsoft intend to make their own EU-sized grip line attachments by the end of the year, but that's a while away so hey.

 

Final note: a lot of people recommend a Delrin ball for the hop up or a nylon screw as they don't warp but wear less on the bucking. If you want a 3mm Delrin ball then I'm happy to post you one for nowt as I have a bag of them because I couldn't buy them individually.

[LordGeorge]

Ok, just bear in mind that 232 bar won't give you near to 4500 psi - it'll give you 3300 at most. Take your tank in to the scuba shop with you and see if they can fill that at the same time for you so you at least get one fill at 4500. Did your tank not come with at least a couple of years left on its test?

 

Also, for all Tony's great products he's a terrible communicator. Make it very, very clear what you want as shipping is a lot of money. Get a spare bucking for $20 as these usually cost $20 + $22 shipping (which is insane). He runs a flat rate shipping service, so get everything in one or two goes because if you need to go back you'll have issues. But at least two bottles of GetSome 1000 from him as that's the recommended lube. Ask for the needle bottles as this is easier to apply (I got the spray ones and they're a bit annoying as they can get on the exterior quite easily and it's a pain to wipe off).

 

As for the reg: Ask them to remove the line and preferably just remove the QD that's directly on the reg. If you're buying your wide bore separately then I'm not sure, though recently I've just bought an EU sized QD (which is a larger bore than the crappy US ones) and this may be the better option. They can be had very cheap from HPAirsoft and will go straight on to your Firebase regulator with ease. I had to use two spanners to remove the old hose Tony attached, but it wasn't too much of an issue and I assume the same amount of effort would be required to remove a double QD line - get the wide bore line, the flex fitting (great if you don't plan on buying an IGL from TNK) and a spare EU size QD if you just want to attach to the macro line directly (though it does of course come with one - I just grabbed a spare for an M870 and for repairs as buying in the UK can only be done in sets of 5). I would recommend you not buy the wide bore in the UK as almost all use US QD fittings (surprisingly).

 

Remember when you reattach to preferably have pneumatic sealant (about £8 from eBay) or at the very least some PTFE/Teflon tape. And remember the Techt Gunsav grease for your Firebase. Usual reminder: Don't use oil based lubricants in your HPA setup from tank to end of line to be safe. Using it in your gun is fine but GetSome is very good and not oil based anyway.

 

The input line for the DG is simply a 6mm macro line that all current HPA engines (Polarstar, SMP etc) come with as standard. However, Tony does sell an 'IGL' (grip line) that should fir the 416. This gives better airflow and is harder-wearing plus if you get it from him it'll screw directly onto the engine with no modification - at $20 it's a good idea, but I'm not sure how easy it is to replace the US QD on the end of that with an EU QD if you go with the wide bore line from HPAirsoft. I had no choice with my 249 as it can't fit an IGL anyway. The 6mm macro is weak, and that's why I got the flex fitting from HPAirsoft and was happy with it as an alternative to the IGL that I can't get (which replaces the entire marco line). It fitted in the grip nicely.

 

I've also been told HPAirsoft intend to make their own EU-sized grip line attachments by the end of the year, but that's a while away so hey.

 

Final note: a lot of people recommend a Delrin ball for the hop up or a nylon screw as they don't warp but wear less on the bucking. If you want a 3mm Delrin ball then I'm happy to post you one for nowt as I have a bag of them because I couldn't buy them individually.

Holy moly, quite some reply .

Luckily there are a few things here i have prepped for .

 

I do understand 232 is not the best but while i got a 7 litre for £20 with the gun, with its stand, netting and carry handle.The guy selling knew nothing about it as his dad had given it to him.

Even if the bottle fails a hydro test. Im not really loosing.

I plan to get a 300 bar 7/12 litre at christmas.

Yes as for the postage, i had already been quoted from tony for a spare bucking and two needle type getsome.

 

Ok so next the reg and line..

I have been chatting to the guys at beestingairsoft, they are offering the redline big bore line with their redline reg for a good price.

 

big bore line

http://www.beestingairsoft.com/product/big-bore-braided-hose/

regulator

http://www.beestingairsoft.com/product/redline-firebase-air-system/

 

They are still to reply back to my last enquiry, but from what i can see on the big bore, one end is threaded so straight onto the reg.. "please correct me if thats not the case" and the other also threaded but ready for a npt.

They should be able to remove the QD on the regulator and have a qd on the end of the line quite easily.

 

Would you mind quickly going over the US/UK quick detach standards ? Sounds and looks like a landmine field.

Will certainly get tony to deal with the IGL while ordering the mothership.

I dont want micro lines anywhere in sight.

Also what do you mean about the "Delrin ball" and nylon screw for the hop ?

 

Cheers

George

[proffrink]

Good price on the 232 - as you say, you're not losing anything. I was just surprised by the hydrotesting bit but at that price I can see why 3300 is still enough, and if you have a car you can just fill it up from the tank you bring with you when you get low.

 

Problem with the larger bore is again the US QD fitting - Beesting cater to usual HPA users and not Daytona Gun, so they wouldn't know the difference. The EU fittings are a very new thing (to DG owners) that even Tony hasn't picked up on yet as it maximised airflow. I would not be surprised if DG begins to switch over to EU fittings in a year or so.

 

Also that line has two QD fittings, so I hope they can make one of those just a normal fitting (though as you say they should be able to, and the page states you can choose any 1/8 fitting).

 

So US QD fittings are obviously smaller, but I'll get the exact measurements off the chap from HPAirsoft as Googling will take some time and I'm lazy. I'll also get you a picture of my US one vs my new EU one. Rest assured though, the EU one still fits straight onto the reg. If you're not going for an IGL/DIGL then EU is most certainly the better option. If you do go for an IGL then unless you can un-shrink-wrap the ends of the IGL and fit an EU fitting onto it, it could be a pain. will update the thread with all that later in the day. I'd certainly take something on like that as a small side project, but it depends how confident you are.

 

So the hop unit as it stands is a metal grub screw that pushes down on the bucking - that's cool, but it's metal on plastic and lots of people have switched to a nylon screw or have put a 3mm Delrin ball under the grib screw (Deltrin being an incredibly unreactive plastic that is not corroded or warped by anything your gun can get near) to even the hop. I think the majority of people are doing this for their R-Hops - but you should be getting one of those anyway

[proffrink]

Double post because images.

 

Male ends. EU left; US right. Notice about 1mm bore size difference (pretty significant).

Female ends. EU left; US right. Note, US is a standard Redline bore width, not a wide bore; the EU is a wide bore, but the connectors are obviously the same. Not much to show, but the female EU one is a slightly nicer QD fitting as you don't lose as much air when attaching and detaching it because of its internal design.

[LordGeorge]

Double post because images.

 

 

Male ends. EU left; US right. Notice about 1mm bore size difference (pretty significant).

 

 

Female ends. EU left; US right. Note, US is a standard Redline bore width, not a wide bore; the EU is a wide bore, but the connectors are obviously the same. Not much to show, but the female one is a nicer QD fitting as you don't lose as much air when attaching and detaching it because of its internal design.

Firstly, how in the name of god do you keep that carpet so clean? I only need to breath on my white carpet and it looks like the coal miners strike walked in!

Ok i can see what you mean regarding the internal bore.

Beesting have confirmed that the wide bore redline will have a single QD and is attached to the regulator already, the chance's its a US fitting being a redline is pretty likely.

Im guessing that the firebase reg output has a 1/8" NPT, so would the line to fit. From the looks of the wide bore line you can change the fitting due to it being threaded.

So i can always order the IGL for EU standard and repalce the supplied nozzle on the line accordingly?

 

Cheers

George

[proffrink]

It's a towel. Sorry to disappoint - this flat has a horrible brown carpet and I had to lay a towel down so the nozzles could be seen properly.

 

Yeh, my wide bore was a 1/8" too and fitted straight onto the Redline; wasn't an issue. I'd wager 95% of the lines in the UK right now are US too as Redline and Amped both make theirs to US sizes, and all the big regulator brands are from the US too. Beesting won't be an exception so it'll be US

 

I dunno if they sell IGLs in the EU size though. I know they're shrink wrapped, which would indicate they're maybe modular (i.e. simply threaded together). In which case you could buy a US one and then turn it into an EU one yourself with relative ease. Again though, not something I've done and not something I will bother doing seeing as the M249 can't take a conventional IGL. Perhaps a project for the future. I was looking at the Redline grip line (which attaches straight onto a macro line rather than the DG/Polarstar/SMP engine) and still might buy one to see if I can change it over to an EU spec, but right now I'm happy with the free reinforced spring thingy that HPAirsoft provided with the hose I bought.

[LordGeorge]

It's a towel. Sorry to disappoint - this flat has a horrible brown carpet and I had to lay a towel down so the nozzles could be seen properly.

 

Yeh, my wide bore was a 1/8" too and fitted straight onto the Redline; wasn't an issue. I'd wager 95% of the lines in the UK right now are US too as Redline and Amped both make theirs to US sizes, and all the big regulator brands are from the US too. Beesting won't be an exception so it'll be US

 

I dunno if they sell IGLs in the EU size though. I know they're shrink wrapped, which would indicate they're maybe modular (i.e. simply threaded together). In which case you could buy a US one and then turn it into an EU one yourself with relative ease. Again though, not something I've done and not something I will bother doing seeing as the M249 can't take a conventional IGL. Perhaps a project for the future. I was looking at the Redline grip line (which attaches straight onto a macro line rather than the DG/Polarstar/SMP engine) and still might buy one to see if I can change it over to an EU spec, but right now I'm happy with the free reinforced spring thingy that HPAirsoft provided with the hose I bought.

Dam, worth a try to bring up my carpet fetish .

 

I agree from what i have seen, yeah they definately just supply whats shipped over.

Im not afraid of touching the spanners to get the job done tidy, Either way i will ask tony to ship the IGL.

Besides getting the reg,tank and kit all the small things i can afford to mess with and replace pipes and connectors at a later date. Much eaiser and cheaper.

I really wanted to find a tidy way of having the male connector from the IGL/micro line to be retro fitted into the pistol grip base so it doesnt shake or move.

I have seen these about but im planning on getting a stark one pistol grip so would need to make it myself.

 

Finalising the order with beesting and should have the kit here next week some time.

I will then cry when i look at my ballance before i order the TNK some time after that.

 

Still gotta get hydro testing and 4 flash mags even after i got the tnk, or before depending on how impatient i get watching £800+ worth of gun looking at me with no mags or gas.

[LordGeorge]

Kit part one ordered.

 

Got a amazing bargain.

 

Guerrilla 100ci 4500psi

Redline firebase regulator

widebore 42in single QD line

Tank fill station

Tech-T Gun sav

Postage

 

For a grand total of ..

 

£318

 

Think i have done some good bartering here

 

Part 2

 

Daytona & spares, some time soon

I will start a new thread once all kit is in, sharing my fun as i go from GBB to HPA GBB .

 

George

[proffrink]

That is a pretty good deal. The mark up in the UK is very high compared to the rest of Europe.

[LordGeorge]

That is a pretty good deal. The mark up in the UK is very high compared to the rest of Europe.

 

Yep, hence why i impulse bought the kit.

I can always change the adapters if need be if they arent 100% right on the reg.

That was all from beesting.com

The guys were nice enough and in the end saved me quite a fair chunk, enough to buy 4 high cap flash mags

 

Was toying with the idea of tapping into a spare mag untill i order in the DG. Would anyone recomend it and if so, what psi those mags run ok at ?

[proffrink]

Well, just don't be 'that guy' with the hi-cap maracas HPA setup. The EPMs are very nice and hold 150rds each, feels a lot better than having rattling magazines every time you shoot.

 

Tapping can tricky depending on valve location. Keep the PSI at around 60 then creep it up to 80 (which is around where you need to be). Get a CQB Russian valve, depends on the brand as to which one you need.

[LordGeorge]

Well, just don't be 'that guy' with the hi-cap maracas HPA setup. The EPMs are very nice and hold 150rds each, feels a lot better than having rattling magazines every time you shoot.

 

Tapping can tricky depending on valve location. Keep the PSI at around 60 then creep it up to 80 (which is around where you need to be). Get a CQB Russian valve, depends on the brand as to which one you need.

Haha, i know what you mean. Nothing better than sneaking around with half of mexico following you!

I converted lonex high m4 high caps to fit my we mk17 and they do rattle but not too much.

Cool yes, i was considering the CQB russian valve as its a inplace replacement, just to play.

[proffrink]

Oh and if you're looking for places to get them then Socom Tactical and The Grange stock all three.

[LordGeorge]

Oh and if you're looking for places to get them then Socom Tactical and The Grange stock all three.

Cheers, i have mailed beesting to see if they could drop one in my order as they were waiting for a delivery for the redline beofore they send it, which could be today or tuesday.

Thanks