Help on sniper rifles

[NickM]

Barrel spacers... mm, well as said before I've simply wrapped the barrel in A4 paper, it fills the void between the inner and outer perfectly.

 

As for what brand of upgrades are better. Many people swear by Laylax, others PDI however ASPUK has a pretty good reputation as one of the best upgraders in the UK if they stock it I'm pretty happy they have vetted it as reliable. Some of the parts are even made to their design. So some are own brand.

 

Washing bb's- I've tried washed and unwashed in mine and I have to whole heartedly go with washed in the sniper. Here are the benefits.

 

1) BB's come with a release agent they use in the moulds it is designed to make the surface slide out of the mould easier, it is not washed off in the process or if it does it isn't done well so they will arrive with varying degrees of coating. This means each bb will move past the hop in different ways. In a sniper the whole idea is consistency. By washing them they are all the same. Its actually not hard. You can wash them in diet coke followed by a warm water and dish soap, a rinse then dry on a baking sheet. I swap the diet coke for 7up Zero, its the acid content that seems to be doing the trick and the sugar is unwanted.

 

2) It reduces the crap on the bbs which means that there is less cleaning involved of the barrel and especially of the hop rubber. Which when gummed up will mean it releases at different times in different ways.

 

3) My accuracy has improved with the washed BB's over the unwashed.

 

Check out www.airsoftsniperforum.com there is a whole section on VSR's and a step by step of all the free upgrades. Most of the guys there have done extensive testing of everything they have done to their guns and there is a distillation of all that is good into their guides.

[M_P]

If you want a 90* system go for ASPUK EZ trigger, or the S trigger,much more reliable than the V trigger and Z trigger because they have less springs and moving parts and so on,also you support small custom works.

 

One of the benefits of PDIs stuff is that you can get spares for everything, down to the trigger components and springs- that's something that I think is a big enough advantage to go for one- assuming you have the money to do so which the op does. You don't often hear of zero or V triggers breaking (unless adjusted too far) so it's not like the others are weak or anything.

As the OP says it's going to be a project and is willing to put a lot of money into it, then he may as well go for the expensive stuff rather than doing it on the cheap.

 

They work well with lower FPS but if you can go higher you might as well, what you lose in terms of volume you gain in performance.

[DazMK5]

Cheers guys. I thought a 6.01 mm was more accurate and more FPS??

- more air behind the bb

- tighter guide for the bb so it doesn't move round in the barrel, and just flys straight?

 

This is the barrel I was thinking off,

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/01+.html

Might have to scroll down a bit to find the VSR-10. It's 3000 yen or something?

 

Is this a good barrel? Cheers !

[M_P]

Cheers guys. I thought a 6.01 mm was more accurate and more FPS??

- more air behind the bb

- tighter guide for the bb so it doesn't move round in the barrel, and just flys straight?

 

This is the barrel I was thinking off,

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/01+.html

Might have to scroll down a bit to find the VSR-10. It's 3000 yen or something?

 

Is this a good barrel? Cheers !

More fps but not necessarily more accurate, PDI's 6.05s have a great reputation. Generally a 430mm length is regarded as the best for a VSR in 6.03-6.05 diameter.

 

They also do these 6.04s with wider outer circumference meant to increase accuracy too

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/04.html

[DazMK5]

I'm gunna wrap this up guys,

If I post some things I'm gunna buy, please tell me what you would

Change for something else, or anything I've forgotten!

 

http://www.x-fire.org/etop/01+.html

http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/e.vsr_cylinder_vc_pal.html

http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/chamber_ver2/e.vsr_chamber_ver2.html

Plus spring?

 

Please supply web addresses if you can guys!

[M_P]

Go for the HD cylinder set- the VC is made for longer barrels and higher FPS figures.

Also, dont bother with the PDI hop chamber, it forces you to use AEG hop rubber and barrels- keep the tm original, it's better.

 

You'll need a spring yes- make sure it's a PDI one of the correct diameter, and you will need to upgrade the sears or buy a new trigger set, as the rest of your list is PDI, you'll want to get the PDI v trigger, mixing up different brand parts tends not to work out well.

That's about it I think

[DazMK5]

Go for the HD cylinder set- the VC is made for longer barrels and higher FPS figures.

Also, dont bother with the PDI hop chamber, it forces you to use AEG hop rubber and barrels- keep the tm original, it's better.

 

You'll need a spring yes- make sure it's a PDI one of the correct diameter, and you will need to upgrade the sears or buy a new trigger set, as the rest of your list is PDI, you'll want to get the PDI v trigger, mixing up different brand parts tends not to work out well.

That's about it I think

Ok, so what I got above, but HD rather than VC, spring, .01 barrel, spring, sears and a trigger?

[M_P]

You won't need sears and a trigger, it's either or, however with everything else you'll have upgraded, you're better off with the complete trigger unit.

[Ian_Gere]

Bear in mind that a 6.01mm barrel will boost FPS noticeably - you may want to recalculate your spring power to stay under 500FPS.

[DazMK5]

Ok so trigger like this?

 

http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/e.vsr_triggerset.html

 

Ian, will I be able to get a spring but if I'm shooting too hot, can I cut the spring, or is it better to just get a smaller one?

 

P.s congrats Ian on becoming mod

[Ian_Gere]

Thanks Daz. They had to pester me a bit, but it's turned out to be less onerous than i feared it would be

 

The wisdom seems to be that cutting down springs is not a good idea. I imagine because you'd have to bend the cut end to get a flatter end, which still would not be properly flat, so would behave differently to a factory made one. If you think about how the coils of the spring are not all the same distance apart too, so each of the 5 main parts of the spring behave differently, which I imagine helps keep the thing centred on the spring guide and down the piston, rather than putting a lot of pressure on one side or another in a bid for freedom - if you mess with that, the consequences could be ugly - I mean there's enough power in a spring to break metal parts...

[M_P]

Ok so trigger like this?

 

http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/e.vsr_triggerset.html

Exactly

[Liam Porter]

Ok so trigger like this?

 

http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/e.vsr_triggerset.html

 

Ian, will I be able to get a spring but if I'm shooting too hot, can I cut the spring, or is it better to just get a smaller one?

 

P.s congrats Ian on becoming mod

 

 

Personally, I get a spring that is rated for 500 FPS, and then cut a few coils off. There's no problem with doing that, quite a lot of people do it, Daz at ASPUK suggests it if people are a little over their target FPS. If you do that, only cut 1, maybe two coils (if you're a lot over your target FPS) at a time, and make sure it's filed down as much as you can. I don't bother making the cut end 'flat', as it's not going to happen, I use a bearing spring guide, so the plate of it can twist as the spring compresses and decompresses, and I put the cut end in the piston, otherwise it can slip over the base of the spring guide. Never had any problems with doing that.

Something to watch out for though, is if you cut a lot of coils off (like I did, cut 6 or 7 off as had to drop 100 FPS), the spring becomes considerably shorter. This means that the piston hits against the back of the cylinder head with less force, meaning a quieter rifle, but it also means the spring guide stopper can come out easier (at least, in an L96, not sure if this is a problem in VSRs, never had one to look at properly), as it's held in with spring tension.

 

 

Again, I'd suggest a wider-bored barrel, the majority of people who have snipers use 6.03-6.05 in them claiming better accuracy at range.

[DazMK5]

Personally, I get a spring that is rated for 500 FPS, and then cut a few coils off. There's no problem with doing that, quite a lot of people do it, Daz at ASPUK suggests it if people are a little over their target FPS. If you do that, only cut 1, maybe two coils (if you're a lot over your target FPS) at a time, and make sure it's filed down as much as you can. I don't bother making the cut end 'flat', as it's not going to happen, I use a bearing spring guide, so the plate of it can twist as the spring compresses and decompresses, and I put the cut end in the piston, otherwise it can slip over the base of the spring guide. Never had any problems with doing that.

Something to watch out for though, is if you cut a lot of coils off (like I did, cut 6 or 7 off as had to drop 100 FPS), the spring becomes considerably shorter. This means that the piston hits against the back of the cylinder head with less force, meaning a quieter rifle, but it also means the spring guide stopper can come out easier (at least, in an L96, not sure if this is a problem in VSRs, never had one to look at properly), as it's held in with spring tension.

 

 

Again, I'd suggest a wider-bored barrel, the majority of people who have snipers use 6.03-6.05 in them claiming better accuracy at range.

Ok, I'll have a look through barrels, so I need to buy, a trigger, barrel, spring, HD cylinder set, and shall I buy a dangerwerx arm to lift heavier BBs fr. Aspuk ?

[M_P]

Yeah, get the B type.

[Sam_G]

I have just started to upgrade my sniper rifle. I'm doing it on a small budget so laylax and PDi stuff was just too expensive.

 

Mine is a JG BAR-10 which is the china clone of a VSR.

 

I bought the upgrade set from ASPUK.co.uk for £52:

http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2534621.

 

That also came with a free set of shs sears.

 

Bought a cylinder head (currently unfitted due to clearance issues)

http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2953066

 

I had a few fitment issues but these were explained on the ASPUK website with step ny step guides on how to fix them. After few hours of playing around with it i have it firing at 495FPS. That's a jump of 100FPS for 60 quid!

 

My next purchase will be a new hoprubber, either a TM of 9ball, and then when i have the spare money a new barrel.

 

At the moment i have zero'd it to be accurate over 65 feet (length of the path running down the side of my house - yes its private)

 

So for £130 i have a near on 500FPS sniper rifle that is pretty dam accurate!

[CaptainSwoop]

I like this thread, it reminds me of the Archery Forum threads where they endlessly obsess about their bow tuning and upgrades.

When your rifle is shooting reliably and consistently stop messing around and do lots of shooting until you are equally reliable and consistent.

When you are then look at upgrades.

Upgrade one thing at a time so you can see if it makes a difference, just because you think something is an upgrade doesn't mean it will improve anything and sometimes may be a retrograde step.

Think about what you are going to change and why you are doing it and what your result will be.

[Ian_Gere]

Well yeah, Cap'n, but let's not discount the value of other ppl's experience. If a whole raft of ppl say that a new trigger is an upgrade, I'm not interested particularly. If 4 out of 5 ppl tell me their trigger failed in XYZ way, I believe I needn't wait to be No.5...

 

I think getting the basics in place is a good plan, then go 1 step @time to evaluate their effectiveness.

[M_P]

I like this thread, it reminds me of the Archery Forum threads where they endlessly obsess about their bow tuning and upgrades.

When your rifle is shooting reliably and consistently stop messing around and do lots of shooting until you are equally reliable and consistent.

When you are then look at upgrades.

Upgrade one thing at a time so you can see if it makes a difference, just because you think something is an upgrade doesn't mean it will improve anything and sometimes may be a retrograde step.

Think about what you are going to change and why you are doing it and what your result will be.

As a sniper rifle is a precision rifle it's pretty much a need to have well made and well constructed parts. You can use a stock one but it's pretty common knowledge that any sniper rifle needs to be well upgraded before performing at a level that is useful. Add to the fact that various parts can easily break under high fps levels there isnt a huge amount of choice in it.

In a normal AEG you'd be right but a sniper rifle is all about precision.