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There's one of those defogging things in the bundle, exfog it says on it. There's so much stuff it feels like Christmas. He has a full face mask, but can't wear it with the helmet. I wear glasses so I want it anyway. I'll look for some decent quality goggles before we go shooting next.

Your original photo does not work for me, but from the specification sheet and reference to Lidls it looks like they could be these : https://youtu.be/WcFNrOIzpYs The impact level is very basic at EN166F which is just for general workshop / workplace use - to protect from things thrown up, not from things being shot. They are not even rated for ricochet It’s better than nothing, but the inclusion of your son sends the wrong message Don’t drill them - not just because you don’t know the effect that it has on what you drill into, but you don’t need any (extra) antifog ventilation as you should not be doing any activity to cause fogging in them (I say ‘extra’ because the video references a small element of ventilation, which if that is the right goggle then it indicates that they are designed just for workshops etc and are for just keeping the dust & cuttings etc kicked up away from eyes Assuming you have a safe and legal environment, for home target shooting get some airsoft shooting glasses with EN166B rating, and ideally a strap, even if it is just a surfer’s glasses strap to hold them in place (There’s no point in glasses having impact ratings if they bounce off your head on impact)

The issue that I haven't seen mentioned is that whilst yes your intention was to show a cheap bargain and use them outside of airsoft games - A person could see them posted here, not read the rest of the context, go out to Lidl and buy a set, rock up to airsoft and then their next post is "I bought goggles I saw on an airsoft page and now I have 1 eye - It's all their fault!!!" Extreme? Yes, however stupidity is everywhere 😂 Roughly nine years ago my at the time regular site had a chap rock up with some cheap safety glasses (Think the type that comes with those £20 springer and BB bundles) who assumed as it was bought from an airsoft (More so hobby store where they sell samurai swords etc too, you know the types I'm sure!) store that they would be fine to use. He was walking back to respawn and had got a stray BB hit his glasses, shatter them and LUCKILY the BB hit just under his eye. I saw him again maybe 6 months later and he was still having trouble with where the BB had hit him and it had caused damage still. He tried to sue the site for negligence (It didn't go very far obviously) but it put the site owner at risk, all because he didn't do his due diligence and ensure he had correct safety gear. There's more to it than just you getting hurt. Imagine if you was the player that had shot at someone, not expecting to hit their eye protection (BB's aren't exactly known to go exactly where you want them to 99% of the time) and the next thing you know the dude you've just shot is on the floor screaming in pain because his cheap eye pro broke and now he has plastic splinters in his eye ball - That would be traumatic for everybody I reckon 😂 The site owners would also have to fill out an incident form for their insurance, which then puts that cost up for them. Sadly most sites are struggling financially as it is in this day and age, the last thing they'd need is premiums going up too. One accident from misjudgement or poor decision making from an individual can spiral into a big ordeal. I hope I don't come across as rude or targeting towards you as that's not my intention at all, I genuinely just don't want to see people getting hurt outside of "Ouch the BB hit me and it stung" 😂

EN 166 B is the lowest rating for airsoft, these look to be EN 166 F which would be not airsoft safe If like me you need glasses to be able to see, I've been using these with inserts for the past 7 years: https://www.bztactical.co.uk/nuprol-battle-pro-eye-protection-with-insert-grey-frame-smoke-lens and have taken many a shot to the lenses with them and survived. I would recommend something full seal though honestly. Bloc are highly rated and I am tempted to jump over to them myself however the pricing is a bit off putting - However you can't really replace an eye should it get damaged so 🤷‍♂️ My Dad uses a Dye mask over his glasses (Which are quite a large frame) too which is another good option!

*submits anonymous report to HMRC* A large, asthmatic man called Kevin who wears glasses with dirty lenses and talks entirely through his nose will be knocking on your door shortly.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned. How old is your son? I ask as some sites require under 18s to wear one piece eye and face protection rather than goggles/glasses and a separate face mask.

Eye protection is something you should never cheap out on. I buy loads of stuff from Aliexpress (because it's great), but I will never buy eye protection from there, even though my general experience on the stuff I have bought from Aliexpress has been fantastic. For eyepro, I bought a pair of sawflys, a pair of heroshark's mesh goggles, and will get some Trittech glasses in the future. As I need prescription inserts, all of these options I think went into the triple digits since prescription inserts are pricey (the Trittechs will go into the multiple triple digits...), but 100% worth every penny.

Great reply and suggestions, thanks. I have been using the full face masks at the site I shoot at, although I did buy my son his own mask. I think I will get a full face mask as suggested. We both wear cheapish goggles when target shooting in the garage with paintball and now airsoft as there's no one shooting back at us. That's really what I brought these for. Cheers. Rick. I appreciate the advice mate, thank you. Yep, the garage is safe and I have a padded and secure backstop to reduce ricochets. I do shoot sub 12 ftlb airguns in there without issues. I usually wear a set of Stihl chainsaw goggles over my glasses. (Found em in garage when we moved in.) As I mentioned he has a budget brand, (but the same as my local site hands out) full mask as I quite like the little shit.... But lesson learned thanks guys. I don't want either of us to get hurt. Thanks for the replies.

My plan was a few 4 or 5mm holes on the top and bottom of the frame, not to touch the lenses themselves. Would that be ok? I think I'll shoot them a few times before I rely on them. Id like a better quality set for sure. I also wear glasses which I assume adds an extra layer of safety? But I really know bugger all about airsoft and would never argue with the experts... The leaflet

Lidl find. £4 I think. No vents so I'm gonna take a Dremel to it later and make some holes. Fit nicely over my glasses. Not sure if of interest to anyone. Sorry for double pictures, crap with tech... 😆

I use a combination of shooting glasses and either of these mesh masks https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/nuprol-lower-face-mesh-mask?fv=2031&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21510397159&gbraid=0AAAAAD53li_1hyLhRH_REbXI-uyquQpy8&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwsrFBhD6ARIsAPnUFD2abdLxATTP-k0IJr9lyEuyJRYKT4fS-_9ZNFtNR5mZzDCJQgKX93saAvtZEALw_wcB https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/nuprol-balaclava-mesh-mask?fv=22445&srsltid=AfmBOop4nObosyW_HeQTfDjOYO5gFtiRApoCqNIvT1PDA4x-oy9iCFD74FA Many swear by Dye masks but I wouldn't touch one with the shitty end of a stick as I don't give money to companies run by nonces

As it seems most replies are just going to be "You bought fakes" here is proof they are not: Images of my goggles: Clearly has the Revision logo Lenses have a revision copyright on them, Clearly with the correct ratings The frame also has the Copyright and also the correct rating. Now tell me if im wrong repros wouldnt go to that effort? Revision goggles from Revisions website : Identical except for colour Now let's look at the fake ones that are sold on ebay No R logo on the top, No lense rating and the side is clearly different. I have done over 40+ hours of research on goggles. I wear glasses, and it sucks to find goggles when you have to wear glasses. I have bought and returned over 15 pairs because they didn't fit or were too small. I may be a new player but I am not an idiot who falls for fake items. Does anyone have any advice other than, you bought fakes?

Hello Hello, I remembered I had an account here and asked some questions some time ago related to these projects. I figured I'd do a bit of a project dump on what I've been up to. I'll use this thread for future additions, as I certainly have more planned as funds allow. The BR-55 and M7 SMG are near completion and are fully functional. Both need a few tweaks and some internal parts. I'd stopped both projects until January this year, and started both from scratch with the aid of my new printer, a Prusa XL (single head for now). Due to ill health, I had to stop work on the BR, having completed a lot of but not all of the physical aspects, and instead directed my attention to the design work for the M7. The M7 requires a lot less metal work (only cutting some rods and drilling about 4 holes in a 3x12 stainless bar, and a couple in the alu barrel mounting). Thus both are being worked on in parallel. I'm currently in the process of refining a few things. Needless to say, neither project has been particularly cheap. Credit to Kingdom of Airsoft and Perun for the original idea to use the ETU++ as a "DIY" solution. The BR-55 A bit of a mix of The Halo 2, 3, and H2A designs, I went for a mix of aspects due to preference, and deepened the stock to allow fitment of a V3 gearbox. It weighs around 4.5KG unloaded, and is reinforced with 15mm stainless box section within the upper, and 12x3 stainless bar running down either side of the stock. There are various bits of metal rod where needed. Surprisingly it's pretty well balanced on the (very comfy) grip, and will stand on the grip alone unsupported. It's printed very solidly in eSun's PLA super tough. It feels very sturdy and there are no squeaks or wobbles. (old video where it's basically being held together by me, you can also see my H2A Marine helmet). 1:1 to the "real" size. Guts: It uses a perun ETU++ hooked up to various microswitches for operation, and has a proper 3 position selector with a mechanical safety. This means no bullpup trigger bar and a snappy trigger. The round counter is fully operational, utilising Tachyon's solution with a custom graphics pack and modified sensor layout, removing the need for a "sock" on the end of the barrel. The round counter is reset by pulling back the charging handle. Manually (very, very carefully, I swear) removed the sensor and emitter from the board, applied heatshrink, and superglued to a saddle that straddles the hole I drilled in the barrel. Also contains compass and clock. Quite useful for timed games. The gearbox is a V3 LCT AK, with an airsoft-pro G36 chamber and 450 something-mm ZCI barrel. Sadly the ML bucking I used (60' macaron) has given me some issues, and will not lift a .25 without dropping 70+ FPS. Having attempted the usual fixes and various nubs, I'm at a loss. I have a psionic Tho-R on the way for both the SMG and BR, so touch wood that'll be an improvement. The airsoft pro chamber is nice in that it bolts directly to the gearbox, removing that as a variable for air leakage. The battery compartment is in the foregrip, with an AK dust cover style button for easy access and removal. The space is sizeable, and I can't see much trouble fitting at least a 3000mah 11.1v in there (if only I had one). I intend to include a small toolkit. The magazines are fully custom, with ML superfeed springs (hello midcap syndrome). Not perfect, but I'm working on improvements. Thanks to Igniz for some pointers on dimensions. I intend to try integrating AR mag hi-cap guts at some point for a skirmish mag. The mag release is situated in front of the mag well, and gives a nice satisfying click on seating. The well is intentionally loose for the addition of velcro, giving a secure fit. These feed into a modular feed block that interfaces between the chamber and magazine. I've allowed provision for a built in tracer and a mechanism to prevent BBs from dropping. Takedown: Basic takedown is very simple and tool-less. It involves removing the foregrip, removing a detent pin from in front of the trigger guard, then sliding the upper forward out of the 1/3 rifle length grooves. The braided battery cable should slide free easily. Removing the gearbox requires removing the hop from the gearbox, pulling the squished wires out, unscrewing 5 bolts on the back, and feeding it out through the open hole in the back of the stock, followed by disconnecting the deans and microswitch cable. Somehow both better and worse than the AUG. The pistol grip is held in by 6 M4 bolts and I doubt that'll ever go anywhere. Printed and oriented for maximum strength. The entire upper takes down into sections from around the 15mm tube. Other nifty details and gaffes: -There are 6 QD sling points, 2 rear, front and mid (in front of the receiver). -Rubber (TPU) butt pad and coating for the cheek rest. -The cheek rest is too far forward to comfortably use. Game design moment. -The rail is too far forward for most magnified optic's eye relief to be useful. You can however lift the stock over your shoulder to get close enough. -I neglected to put a ledge on the front of the trigger guard, which the fire select detent mechanism attached to. This meant if you put pressure on the trigger guard (say with your hand), it would move the fire select lever up and down. This has been rectified quite easily, if a little wastefully. -I dropped the whole lower receiver onto a concrete corner from several feet while carrying it to the food dehydrator to cure, after the final coat. I nearly screamed in anguish. Thankfully, PLA-ST is very tough, and it sustained only a minor dent on an edge. This is the first battle damage. Remarkable material for being so cheap and easy to print. -I originally intended the design to keep the hop up chamber with the upper upon disassembly. I found that no matter the spring used, firing would cause the hop up to move forward 5mm with every shot. I suspect this has something to do with the anti double feed mechanism it has. It's now fixed to the gearbox, and is somewhat delicate when unsupported by the upper, hanging by only a grub screw. At some point I'll look at fixing it proper to the lower. -The magazines had to be angled forward to be in an optimal position to feed. -I didn't think my power wiring through very well, and it's a bit of a rat's nest. The excess power wires that give sufficient length for the gearbox to be removed have to be stuffed into a hole to keep them out of the way. Not an easy prospect with thickly insulated 14awg wires. Needs improvement. -The muzzle flash is printed and currently just friction fits on the barrel. I've the means but not the expertise to use a lathe to cut a thread into it. When that happens, I intend to buy Foundry's alu flash hider. -The painting was a bit of a nightmare, and contained a lot of stops, starts and bad farts . Accidentally wiping off paint with unintentionally strong spirits, gray overspray onto black, clear clouding, dropping final piece onto concrete... etc. -The detail lines on the stock were so shallow, sanding and spray putty almost removed them in places. Without thinking I set to with a knife, butchering some grooves into several hundred hours of work. -Much like an old warplane being restored with a few bolts or a nameplate being the "same plane", the foregrip was the only part that made its way over from the original project. Considering the detail lines were so small that they didn't even print, I'm kind of wishing I hadn't. I'd say the (almost) end result is worth it though. M7 SMG Ah, the first proper CAD project I ever worked on, and the first airsoft gun I ever attempted. Frankly, the original I started 5-6 years ago was unsalvageable. Looked pretty, but holy moly, what a mess. It's not wasted though, you learn things. I have to say I'm quite happy with how this one turned out. Far less faff than the BR-55, almost everything worked as intended without much trouble. Printed in much the same fashion and material, but a fair sight simpler. (please excuse the mess, Prusa XL enclosed in the background) The guts: JG Vz.61 AEP innards form the working part of this pew pew. Regrettably, AEP performance isn't always the best, and repairing broken ones can be iffy. You can imagine my disappointment when I finally finished a gun that's been 5-6 years in the making, and it has an effective range of 15 feet. The stock bucking applies no backspin at all. Thankfully everything else works, and I have a Psionic Tho-R on the way to help remedy that. The gearbox unfortunately had an incident where the cut-off switch fell off internally, as evidently no thread lock was applied at manufacture. Awaiting a fine torx set to get at it. The feed route is an interesting one, given it goes around 4 bends and finally ends up vertical. Works just fine though apparently. (Note it's a little more noisy than it would be, as there's no barrel or hop unit, or BB being fired) VID_20240811_210834390.mp4 As a salve for the disappointment that may be gripping some of you upon hearing the acronym "A-E-P", this gun's perfectly sized for a P* F2, and would require minimal design changes to adapt it for such. This gun also uses the Perun ETU++, and this time with some wire management (woo). I've got a very satisfying clicky electronic safety that uses magnets as detents, as I had no room to integrate a mechanical safety in the linear trigger. It's very ergonomic and easy to toggle with the trigger finger within the trigger guard. The ETU was intended for this project originally as a way of getting around the lack of semi cut off present on CMG gearboxes (CQB gun with no semi is as useful as a max joule sniper in CQB), but proved perfect for bullpups. The fire selector isn't in the most ideal of locations (under the magazine well), but it can be easily toggled with the off hand. The battery compartment is in the grip, and a cap comes off with the push of a button at the back. It can hold standard sized lipo batteries, preferably short ~1200mah 7.4v. I'm very pleased with the magazine seating / locking mechanism. It was a problem with the original. This time there's a hook very securely mounted to the back of the receiver. As you slide the magazine forward onto the tray, the hook falls into a groove in the magazine, and as the fore of the magazine seats into the mag well, the hook locks the magazine in the X axis as the mag catch locks it in the Y. You can jerk the gun around by the magazine only without play. Nice click too. Both the stock and foregrip change position. The stock extends by around 95mm, and locks securely with a 5mm stainless pin into a 12x3 stainless bar. The foregrip also locks with a metal pin, but into ABS+. It has no side to side play, but has a little forward and back play when deployed. I've decided it's negligible given it's minor and doesn't make a noise. The ejection port / charging handle also works smoothly, though it's not for thick or gloved fingers. The top iron sights are removable, to be replaced with a pic rail. Side and bottom rails can also be added. Takedown: A little more tool intensive than the BR-55 for basic takedown. 2 bolts allow the removal of the upper "cap", 6 more for the inner "block" which houses the hop up chamber, feed block and outer barrel. This slides forward off the nozzle and up. This allows the gearbox, pressured down by the upper cap, to be removed. Nifty details and gaffes: -The stock detent spring has been a source of frustration and fiddling. I've spent some time trying to get the spring mounted onto the pin block. To be improved. -The stock pad is TPU with ABS encased within to mount the 2 QD fittings (designed for single point slings only, unless the front is wrapped with something). TPU doesn't deal with overhangs well, and the quality leaves something to be desired. I'm hoping a second head for the XL will solve this problem (multi-material integration). -The original Omron SS-5 switch I bought for the trigger sounded *exactly* like a computer mouse. I couldn't stand this and instead bought some of the XSS-5 copies that actually feel more solid and sound better. -Surprisingly ergonomic, though the grip is less comfy than the BR. I didn't want to sacrifice the aesthetic too much. The sights are useful for airsoft even if you can only really look down them when holding the gun out like a pistol. You can still align them while shouldered. Adequate for lobbing small plastic balls at other nerds. -The suppressor seems a little pointless for an electric gun, but I'll likely do it anyway at some point. It's very janky and intended to use an olight key ring torch with a threaded "presser" on the back to turn it on. I'd rather do it when I can thread the barrel. It'd also be more useful for a HPA version. Man I love the aesthetic of this thing. Drawing a blank here, nothing much went wrong. I'd hate you less for wanting me to make you one of these. That's about it for now. You may have noticed a new helmet in one of the pics, with built in forehead / glasses fan. Future projects will be the HPA SMG when I'm not poor (gee I wonder where the money went), Mk23 M6C Socom, and a HPA MA5B. We don't talk about the WE tech Glock I turned into a magnum. Needless to say I don't like WEtech anymore. I'd love to daytona a Halo replica, but alas, money. Ask away, just be aware I'm a little closed on specific details as I do plan to make a little money on these. Cheers for reading.

Good Afternoon Legends! I have recently bought myself some Revision Spider Wolf goggles from ebay. I wear glasses and have obtained the Rx inserts for them. Anyway, I have an odd issue with them, and I wanted to know if all pairs are like this or if I was unlucky with the ones I got from eBay. They are the perfect size and fit well in all but 2 areas. My temples. See, this is where the issues lie, it looks like the rubber seal is bulging outwards. I am not sure how well the picture shows it, but they seem to bulge towards my face, leaving indents in my skin. To start with, I figured it out because they are likely unused or new, and the rubber needs to wear in a bit. Is this normal for these goggles, or have I been super unlucky and bought a dud? I can get another pair as i will be butchering these somewhen to try fit Exfog, but would be nice to know if theres a chance my next pair will be the same? Thanks! Punisher

Cheeky little PMAG which is actually a USB battery pack. Takes up to 3 18650 batteries and powers my fan glasses easily. You can fit a couple of 5.56 rounds in the top as well if you want it to look more legit.

Did a search of the site to see if any news on the pre-order delivery and was surprised these had not been posted. https://trittech-us.com/ Looking at the youtube channel ballistic testing seems good and the antifog look amazing. From someone that can fog a DYE mask I use an ExFOG like system but its just a PITA with the tubes so most of the time I wear my heroshark mesh but I have astigmatism and in low light suffer. Fingers crossed they turn out as advertised.

Heres mine so far, I have just got the PC so its not adjusted properly and is sitting a bit high and I am still wating for a belt to holster my pistol + mags etc. Still undecided on if i want to go helmet or not. Going by my test today I am 100% going to need Exfog. I am also in the "wears Glasses" group too haha I was just worried them being baggy was odd but perhaps them are meant to be like this the top isnt too bad but i feel the trouser may impede my movement a bit perhaps knee pads is a good idea like you guys have mentioned

In what seems to be a right of passage in the airsoft world, I have grown to hate with a passion the spectre of fogging. Being a little unfit, quite fat and therefore prone to producing vast quantities of heat and moisture, it has driven me to try and find my own solution much as I imagine many others have too. My somewhat unique difference is that I wear glasses as in ESS ICE ballistic glasses and not goggles as many others do, this has meant that all the solutions that I've seen are tailored to those and not glasses. I also don't run a helmet of any kind just a DPM bucket hat so I found myself even farther from convention. Many things got an audition, from the 50p antifog wipes in the shop at AP (not terrible but very short lasting) to buying a battery powered fish tank pump and some tubing (chinesium crap and failed badly). Now, many will no doubt recognise Novritsch as a marmite figure but I noticed he had the catchily named 'anti fog unit' available, this seemed to offfer an attachment that was usually placed on goggles and magnetically snapped into the tube allowing the hat to come off but the eye pro stays on. It was at that moment I had a bit of an A-TEAM moment, if this piece could be bonded in the right place maybe it could be adapted for glasses? The pictures below will hopefully demonstrate where I went with this, the velcro is simply stapled and double sided taped into place while the adapter got bonded onto the glasses with a smidge of 2 part 3M Scotchweld that definitely didn't come from work at all. Ever. The upshot is that as I place the hat on my head the tubes and the adaptor 'finds' the one on the glasses and very satisfyingly snaps into them. It looked and felt ok but did it work? Yes, surprisingly, my recent visit to Apocalypse with their marathons games was a good test and the battery lasted all day even though the indicator light showed red it kept going. Even if it didn't I could have used a power bank to top it up. Just a little bit of hopefully useful info for you all if you use glasses like me. Cheers!

Nowhere near as expensive as the NVGs there, but I've finally put myself a CQB kit together for if I ever go to events where I can't do my scout sniper / recon role and have to do CQB instead. Already got the guns as I have a KWA mp9, or a CQB MWS with two uppers; one as a more modern mk18, one as a more retro car-15 style. Also already have the plate carrier with weighted training plates to simulate actual armour plates, plus placards for AR/AK, .308 and SMG mags. That left head and face protection that needed doing, as getting shot in the face up close sucks and I don't want expensive dental bills! Also, I am a tall fellow at 6'5" and don't want to scalp myself on any door frames, which someone did actually do at my local site a month or so ago; he's fine now but seeing what he did would make anyone at least a little squeamish. Bought a "ballistic" helmet from Aliexpress for £35, fully expecting that it wouldn't be the IIIA ballistic rating that was advertised because it was a £35 helmet from Aliexpress, and found some Americans who did in fact prove that they are not IIIA ballistic rated. However, what I wanted was a helmet that was big enough for my 62cm head, and also had a nice weight to it to simulate that armour in the same way the weighted plates in my carrier have no ballistic protection but sure make it feel like I'm wearing the real thing! To finish up, I also bought: a helmet cover, pair of earmor m32s and mounts, an Aliexpress anti-fog unit (bought the Nov one too, but thought that £15 was worth trying an Aliexpress one so will use that one first until it dies), a face mask balaclava combo, and then a pair of over-glasses goggles from Novritsch, since I know a lot of opticians are getting difficult when it comes to having inserts glazed, as well as some arc rail anti-fog hose clips to keep it all nice and tidy. Overall, I am pleased. It feels great, fits great and the whole setup came in at under £150 for absolutely everything; I didn't want to spend too much because at the end of the day, I won't be using this setup all that much as I way prefer my scout sniper / recon style of play, but it's nice to have options

I’m not the right person to help with glasses type such as the Blocs as I hate them as a protection - impact is fine with glasses, (as long as they are designed for inpact). But they have to fit, be worn properly and securely (I’ve seen so many BBs get in via the side etc - which seems OK when the energy is lost on the way, but that’s a failure) Glasses types should not be fogging internally (If it was just with that type I’d be suggesting to consider also whether it is external - try them then do a finger wipe) The cause will be air flow due to all the additional factors of mesh guards etc Try wearing your different options in different conditions. Eg if you just sit down inside in ambient conditions, not being active - you should have zero fogging with glasses alone as you aren’t generating extra & trapping your breath Then move on to moving around and heavier breathing. If you have fogging without excess breathing then you’re either a very heavy breather or a heat source Once you’ve ideally cracked getting fog free glasses try again with your mesh - again with no activity, moving to mild and stronger activity - the difference would be the extra air flow problems / air being forced into the glasses/goggles

Hard to really say it's worth it when you could build out a VFC AK74M pretty close to that for about the same or slightly more. And it wouldn't be a ten year old design pretending to be a lost relic. GHK AKs were great in their day but the V2s especially have a number of really annoying flaws, and aftermarket doesn't really fix a few of them. This would be half the price if the V3s weren't so dogshit that everyone got rose tinted glasses for the V2s.

Ventilation, ventilation, ventilation! (and some anti fog). On my mesh masks I trim some of the vertical (or horizontal) bits of wire out, it just reduces the amount of wire giving protection and increases the size of the holes for the moisture to escape through. I have had some face shots still "hit me", but nothing compared with not wearing a mask. I also glued a bit of rubbery type material to the inside of it at the top so it causes a "seal" against my face, this way the hot, moist air from my breath goes forward and out, not up to the inside of my glasses. I then don't wear any scarfs/neck buff things, everything I can to get sweat to evaporate. If I am wearing a helmet, a couple of buffs cut in half to absorb the sweat, I say a couple because I keep the spare dry ones in my pockets and I then change these when respawning or between games if I am very sweaty. This also stops any sweat from my head etc running down and adding to my problems. Always use anti fog coating on the inside of my glasses. I use the Bob hopes visor spray for motor bike riders, I have heard some people say they felt it damaged their glasses, but I run cheap Bolle Siliums from screwfix which I generally replace every 6 months or so (so I am not bothered, works for me). I reapply at lunch and religious about doing it before the game starts. If it still fogs, I find just moving the glasses a couple of mms away from my face helps with the air flow around them too (this is rare and isn't enough to cause a safety issue).