MorganL

I have a Vortex Spitfire and bought the below kill flash just for the honeycomb then 3D printed an adapter for the front to fit in but you could easily just tape it on as you have done. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076PCYS2L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

That ebay link is for perspex and not polycarb, perspex is about as strong as the acrylic that he's broke. I've been using 6mm acrylic as can cut that myself but polycarb is a right pain as its an awkard material to laser cut as it absorbs the laser so you need a special laser source or you can use a CNC router to cut out the discs, I can make you some 6mm thick acrylic discs not had one break yet but don't think anyones been lucky enough to hit them yet. Other than that their is the kill flash as above that works well if you can find the honeycomb in the right size and strength.

Not wanting to Hijack this thread but... Does anyone have a list of ideal distance to zero sights, Red Dot, 3x, 5x, 8x etc... or is there a calculation you can use to work it out?

I've seen those scuba adapters on a youtube video that was the cheapest method I could find if you had an old tank kicking around but even on FB or ebay you can pick them up pretty cheap. The nitrogen bottles have a 5/8" fitting on which then goes off to the regulator, However this that one in question is £800 lol I'll give my supplier a ring on Monday and see if they'll loan me one or chuck me a freebie, that reg is a high pressure the one we use is a High Flow which cost 3x as much and its massive as it has a heat exchanger when cutting full speed even the bottles start freezing up lol. I know these tanks are designed for the pressure but they must be dead thick 1800psi is not to be sniffed at.

Now I just need to work out the best way of getting it from the regulator into the tanks filling nipple, I'm sure google has some sort of adapter :).

this is my tank Got my wording mixed up meant shop air not CO2. From what I can see apart from the risk your life aliexpress compressors HPA compressor are dead expensive.

That was my thinking, nitrogren is actually a non-reactive gas it doesn't interact with anything, you can fill your car tyres up with it infact I'm sure racing car tyres are filled with it. Also as it's innert its safe to vent into the atmosphere unlike propane also in most cases it prevents oxidisation so should in theory be really good for the internals. Mainly I was making sure I wasn't being completely stupid in why we use compressed air apart from the fact its easier to produce with a compressor etc...

I'll start off with I'm a complete HPA noob, I've just bought a conversion kit for my TM MWS CQB Block 1 & hence have a small HPA tank now that I need to fill up, there are a couple local dive clubs near me and obviously I can fill it up at my next game but outside of that I'm thinking what is an easier way to fill it up, I have access to an absolute ton of Nitrogen (I own a Fibre Laser) so on hand I have around 1,000L of 300 bar Nitrogen, what would the implications of using nitrogen instead of CO2 in the HPA tank?

Howdy folks :), I've bought the HPA adapter for the MWS, what uprades would you guys recomend for the platform or should it be fine as is for the most part? I only really do CQB so I don't need it to shoot the other side of the a forest.

Awesome thank you.

Bit of a splurge this week :). Airtac MWS HPA adapter Airtac Mag catch in black Airtac AT200 Tank, reg and line kit PTS EPM1-S x 3 Vortex spitfire hd gen ii Army armament R604 Where did you get the gas block from I need one for my MWS block 1.