pyromancer6
-
Posts
81 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Buy a Patch
Classifieds
Posts posted by pyromancer6
-
-
-
Hi all,
Recently been taking on this M733 CYMA as my first real forray into 'fixing something' that was previously fucked - it was working great until on a game day it decided to get locked into safe on every position (safety catch, new one is going in as we speak to hopefully fix it) but with me being me I also decided to order a set of SHS 13:1s from ak2m4 while I was there - only to notice that the stock CYMA gears have what I'm guessing is a magnet in one of the holes that the SHS lacks - where do I source these for the SHS gears? I'm assuming it's how the CYMA mosfet reads gear cycling and I fear that just slapping the SHS ones in without replacing it will cause it to burst on semi or do other fucky shit.
Am I just being paranoid, or does that magnet need to be replaced to have the mosfet not freak out? If so - where would I source one for the SHS gear? Cheers -
12 hours ago, JinxDuh said:
To be honest, the S&T isn't bad - Unless you want to modify it. The hop is annoying and only one really works with it (Begadi, so big bucks). Both of my stock S&T's do run lovely though, and the EBB is quite fun on the MG36 🤤 Most of the issues I ran into was because I was changing brand parts over and trying to make them work, which ultimately didn't.
Sadly, the best feeling one (Imho) is the Umarex/Ares G36X - However, internally it's Ares. Closely followed by the new generation S&T.
Out of the 11 G36's I've had, I would personally put them in this order from best to worst:
- JG - Works great, dirt cheap and takes the most upgradeable parts just don't snap the selector plate.
- Umarex/Ares (Although currently mine has an S&T stock gearbox in it) - Mainly biased because it takes the Ultima industries handguard so I can have a legit G36KA4.
- S&T - I've had 4, and all of them have ran great out of the box with no issues at all.
- Cyma - Surprisingly, being cyma they're not as great as I would have hoped.
- Specna - Feels awful, like... really plasticy. Shot alright but I would definitely not buy another. Also really picky with what mags it will feed.
The WE GBBR is undoubtedly on the top, but that's kind of to be expected.
I would've thought the spenca would've been decently solid externals wise - I bought a KV stock and Hensoldt style carryhandle dot/scope from a regular at the site I play at and it's distinctly nylon-y non shiny plastic. Appreciate the insight though - strange to hear your thoughts on the S&T from the horse's mouth considering the nightmare fuel that was your KA4 build...
10 hours ago, mp5a4 said:Classic Army is probably the best TM spec G36, great externals and mostly in spec, gears are a little cheese metal and can strip but easily replaced. Fits a real steel handguard with no mods too, JG always seemed a little different shape and needs some persuasion for it to fit.
Sportline? Proline? I'm exclusively after external quality as all the internals from my current JG (13:1s, perun hybrid etc) are going in so if there's no difference between the bodies quality wise I'll go with what's cheaper.
Do they only do G36Cs? Or do they do the longer variants too? Can't seem to find much information on them to be honest, considering the age of them. -
Hi all,
I'm an owner of a JG G36K that I've had for a little while now - we've had our ups and downs, and it's had plenty of money thrown at it to make it good. One thing that's always bugged me was how creaky and plastic-y it's always felt so after deliberating on ordering replacement parts to hopefully fix all the creaking I just realised I had a ship of theseus situation on my hands and that it'd probably be a better idea to purchase a brand new base gun and just simply swap all the fancy bits over, leaving the original as a nice little spare backup of sorts.
That leaves the question - which one? I've heard nightmare stories about the S&T (@JinxDuh...) and I'd need one that is ideally fully compatible with the JG so I can swap over parts interchangably so I still have a spare backup gun when it's said and done. -
33 minutes ago, Matt1983 said:
Tokyo Marui Glock 17 gen4
2 spare g17 mags
Cow cow hop unit
Cow cow blowback housing
cow cow nozzle spring
flamingo 50 bucking
ZCI 97mm barrel
9ball Glock gas routers
Where about did you source all this from? Was looking for some parts for my WE too as I need a new mag valve and thought I might as well get posh ones + the fancy routers to see if they make much of a difference at all
-
4 hours ago, hitmanNo2 said:
The best deals have all gone now I'm afraid. £200 is likely the best price you'll find XPIs with comms.
Thanks for the heads-up - I'm not too upset as I can't afford the things at the minute anyway lmao
-
1 hour ago, hitmanNo2 said:
Recently, a load of new in box Comtac XP and XPIs were dumped on eBay for very cheap. I picked up some XPIs with mic and downlead for £160. I need to change the connector on the downlead to work with my PTT but still a bargain. So take an look, maybe make an offer on one that is on best offer and you'll get a pair of excellent ear pro for pretty cheap.
Understandably, this has kind of tanked the market, even if only briefly so you might be able to get some used XPs for sub £100.
Any idea where the listing for the XPIs are? The only one I can find w/ microphone is around the £200 mark on eBay atm
-
1 hour ago, Shamal said:
I think that's the nature of the beast bud ☹️
My g&g gc4 g26 has the same issue.
I can get the inner barrel real tight but the movement is in the plastic hand guard. A spot of hot glue may help.
Unfortunately I need to get the front handguards off as it's front wired 😅, appreciate the input anway though
1 hour ago, johnnyj said:Your delta is lose , front sight off with the gas tube and tighten it up making sure the gas tube can go back in , you might need barrel shims but most times they arnt needed.
Yeah this seems to be the case, just learnt how to take the front sight + gas block etc off alongside the delta ring so I'll be borrowing a armourer's wrench soon to get it tight as I just didn't have anything to grasp it properly
1 hour ago, johnnyj said:Edit- how liverpool ish are you ? I'm south wirral ( ellesmere port )
Skem 😜, easier to just say it's close rather than try and explain lol -
Hi all,
I've been blabbering on my profile about a 'works proper good' CYMA that a friend picked up second hand a while ago to do some sort of counter-strike style build (it was broken when recieved, and has sat in a gun roll for the best part of a year now) and I've spent the last few weeks using my sudden confidence and milk-bottle tech skills to get it back on the road after the CYMA mosfet did a CYMA mosfet and died.
It's firing nice, even though it overspins a little on 11.1v (but is a little sluggish on 7.4v, and just perfect on 9.9v even though it's the only battery that doesn't fit the front handguard, typical airsoft) I've noticed today that it seems to be a little wobbly in the front, to the point where the removable handguard, front sight/gas block and outer barrel move/rotates. It's bugging the piss out of me and I was wondering what I could do to tighten it up and if I need to seperate the upper and lower to do so (because getting those bullet connectors through the little slot in the outer barrel is a nightmare and I don't want to if I don't have to)
Video below - is it just a nuance of these front wired CYMAs or is there something loose I should tighten?
Cheers in advance.
-
My JG G36 was originally built in 2021 by them, apparently - and it had a slough of issues [pun unintended] too. Maybe they just really hate G36s?
-
Was moseying around on Ali taking a look at random things and found a listing for SHS HT/HS motors that are stupidly cheap - anybody have any experience with these? They've got to be offbrand or clones considering the price. Still - might be worth a shot considering your average SHS HT is more than double the cost if you're in desperate need of a motor or such.
-
I think it's just a problem of the sliding AK/MP5 hops being a pain in the ass - I had to shave down my XT nub to stop my MP5 overhopping 0.28s with no hop applied as it was just a little too wide to fit the tract properly and was getting forced in when the arm went back in place [and the one I cut on the game day on a bench outside fixed this, just it was a little pissed so it was shooting to the left 😅], a fresh XT nub same as the one you linked went in fine after some sanding and a little trimming, same ML macaron rubber too - just in a CYMA MP5 instead of an AK [the hops are pretty similar or at least I'm assuming so]
-
8 hours ago, Gryph said:
I'm just a fan of the ARVO look on the G36. Granted that's becoming less common as more forces are moving away from the 36, but it looks slick AF
Always wondered what that optics rail was called as I wanted to recreate this sick ass G36 I saw on YT shorts a while back
Bet you'd have a great time trying to get a ACR stock to fit on a G36 though..
-
On 07/06/2024 at 17:50, Gryph said:
Honestly I think it should be a crime. Straight to jail if your G36 doesn't have a carry handle
There's some potential and some setups really suit the KAC irons, but yeah - hensoldt all the way.
Pictured, a poor bundeswehr soldier struggling to see absolutely fucking anything through it 😂
-
5 hours ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:
Ok, E&C Glock 34 turned up from 18airsoft at the weekend - just two weeks from placing the order (albeit it was at customs for a chunk of that time). UKARA number very nicely written in brackets after my name on the address - useful as when Royal Mail emailed me to mention that they had been advised of a parcel being posted to me, I had written evidence from that email that the UKARA number was on the package should I later have an issue with customs (I didn't - it wasn't even opened by them, and no additional charges to pay).
The actual RIF is really nice. It has a slightly stronger recoil than all of my WE G17, WE G19, and Army Armament G34. Build quality is good - feels great in the hand - I'd say comparable to a WE glock, and better than the AA. Full trades on the slide and lower, including the Taran Tactical stuff too. No misfeeds on the 5 mags that I've put through it, and seems to like WE mags and AAP mags (although FPS seems a touch higher on the WE mags). Shooting at about 310 FPS on red gas at about room temperature. Body size accurate at 35m, useful range probably ends at about 40m on the stock hop with 0.2s. Only negative being that the slide has about 1mm side to side play in it when wiggled - I might be able to tighten that up somehow - but irrespective, performance seems decent.
Looks like I'll be adding a E&C glock to the lineup when I can, then - thanks for all your info!
-
11 hours ago, JVacation said:
@pyromancer6 regarding the hop unit and maple leaf. Barrels have a tiny amount of deviation in dimensions around the window. Some barrels go into the hop unit a tiny bit further than others, not much at all but means that the bottom lip of the maple leaf bucking goes too far into the unit meaning it blocks the feeding tube of the hop unit.
To test this assemble the barrel, unit and the bucking as you would and flip it over so the tube which makes contact with your magazine is pointing up. Drop a bb down it and see if it goes all the way into the unit. If it does then it's all good however if it gets stuck halfway use something to test the resistance to push the bb into the unit completely.
If you feel any resistance at all you will need to shave the bottom lip of the bucking a tiny bit just to give more space for it to drop.
Interesting, I'll give it a little go because I'm sure the plastic ZCI with a dedicated nub's much better than the standard DE hop with an internal one. It was previously mis-feeding every-other shot rather than every single one if that's any indication? Ever since going back to the standard one it's fed flawlessly.
EDIT:
Had a good fuck around for an hour or two, it feeds a little better on the plastic ZCI unit with a different barrel [CYMA] but it still has feeding inconsistencies - the units are proportioned a little differently from eachother so the next one I get I'll give it a go of filing down to try and match the profile. -
2 hours ago, MrTea said:
Great news that you've identified and fixed your issue and it sounds good too! Is that stock outside of remedial work you've done?
It's running a XT High Torque 22TPA that was in there previously (formally a SHS high torque but it died of death because the pistol grip slipped at some point) and the aforementioned compression kit but excluding that it's completely standard on the inside parts wise, just a reshim.
2 hours ago, MrTea said:Nice work getting it running on the edge of the limit.
I might have flubbed the hop amount for the picture when I took it to get it perfect 😅, turns out it was sending 0.28s to outer-space and when adjusted properly at the site it was a little too hot at 1.23~ or around about, so I popped the standard spring back inside which has got it shooting around the 1.01J mark with the hop set correctly - I might look into getting a goldilocks spring that's just right when I order a nice little XT tightbore for it [as the accuracy isn't the best from the random 6.03 barrel I stuffed inside] but I'll cross that bridge when we come to it - I'm just happy to have a pew that works again, especially one that my hands have been on and inside! -
Thought I'd reply to this thread with a little update - it ended up being the air seal components as mentioned previously, it was leaking a bunch of air through the cylinder head hence the low power. Replaced the air seal stuff with ak2m4's lovely compression kit and the power jumped all the way up from 0.73J to 1.26J. Used it for most of Friday's game just went with absolutely no problems, ran like a trooper.
Considering it's the first time I've ever cracked a gearbox, changed things and even attempted my own shimming it didn't end up too bad. Pretty chuffed with it, actually.
-
I had a little plink on the Friday just gone with one somebody had at the site. It's suprisingly pretty zippy and satisfying to use - I'd imagine it'd be a great alternative to your average GBB pistol during the colder months or if you just want 'a pistol that works' but with a little more soul than your average NBB/AEP, plus it's a grach which is extra bonus points
-
Spoiler
Spoiler
My SR-25 came back from getting the works over at Negative Airsoft and he was kind enough to sell me this lovely PTS Magpul PRS to go alongside so battery changes aren't as much of a pain in the ass. Fires lovely, the perun clicker is awesome and I just can't wait to use the thing!
- gavinkempsell and Impulse
-
2
-
15 hours ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:
I'll let you know just as soon as my 18airsoft order arrives from Hong Kong! All being well a shiney combat master style G34 should be arriving at some point....
I've had my eyes on 18airsoft for ages now but was just too nervous to pull the trigger - do let me know how you get on! I've wanted one of the E&C glocks from there for ages because the prices just seem insane and honestly way too good to be true
-
I wonder if their 17/18s are modern TM spec or if it's still .45 glock sized so 17 holsters won't fit - if they were properly to scale so they fit holsters I'd get a 17 in a heartbeat, love me some cheap metal slide trades.
-
https://projectairsoft.co.uk/products/utr45-m917g-drum-magazine
As far as I know this is the only 'other' UTR magazine I've seen, although apparently it takes G&G PCG45 mags too? Haven't tried anything apart from the stock magazines and while they've been fine for me I'm not exactly running fast RPS or anything.
This video from JHQ has a pretty spicy DSG setup that's still running the standard mags and they seem to be keeping up okay?
-
Me and a mate have been using this for our CYMA and Arcturus AKs for the past 8 or so months with no issues:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223829128666?var=522572967163
Seeing as an E&L I took in for a friend's magazines fit in my CYMA fine, I'm assuming this'll work with E&L mags too?
Super noob SHS gear question
in Electric Guns
Posted
Appreciate the info lads. Now that I'm looking at it properly instead of just seeing the silver metal and assuming 'magnet' it's very obvious what it actually does 😅
Me thinking it was a magnet led me to a reddit thread talking about needing to replace the magnet in a new set of gears and lo and behold - it was for an amoeba with the EFCS 🤦♂️
Now just need to order some bearings as the CYMA bushings that are in there are a bit too shonky to fit any shims with the SHS gears.. [pretty sure they're taller than the stock ones]