frontsight

@Steveocee Hey bud, is this some sort of teaser? I can't seem to see any of the images you uploaded😅

Honored! Glad that there's people who enjoy the content. Please feel free to show off your own pistols as well! Really looking forward to some inspiration from other users too

Airsoft as a hobby is like amateur stock trading - impulsively buying and regrettably selling stuff.

Thats sick. Are Western Arms still manufacturing stuff? Many many moons ago I used to have a heavyweight LAPD swat 1911 from them and remember it kicked even harder than Marui's with guarder kits.. Never should have sold it

Heard she got a... PSA : Clean steel parts before you put them on. I've noticed a lot of people just open the packaging and assemble without any cleaning. Steel airsoft parts tend to have a lot of rust caked on the finish right out of the box. Guarder seems to be the worst with this as they usually sit in warehouses for ages before selling; but I'm seeing this happen with a lot of other brands as well. Pic is after a second pass with Ballistol.

Yes! I use 242 but 243 seems to be pretty much the same strength but just with better oil tolerance.

Don't forget to show off some pics when you're done! Also, do the AM hi capa slides come with a notch inside the slide for a 1911 style barrel bushing? Been contemplating buying one for a while..

Agree with the replies above. Any TM in plastic stock form is generally pretty good. I've owned stock and metal-kitted versions of the TM Deagle and 1911 and they're great fun to plink with. But I would also add that both the Marui deagle and 1911/meu are older designs (decades I believe?) there have been many "updates" to TM's designs over the years and some of the newer models like the M45A1 or FNX have improvements such as larger & more efficient cylinders, reinforcements on fail-prone parts etc. Also depending on how you like to shoot you could find the gas capacity of single stack pistols to be not enough. I've never tried WE deagles but heard they were pretty good if you're really jet-set on getting one. They're metal too if you're into that sort of thing

Guarder has improved a lot in quality from their earlier productions, but I really would emphasize this 👇 There's a big "luck of the draw" component when it comes to Guarder. You could get lucky and get perfect fitting parts, but sometimes guarder parts don't even jibe with other guarder parts. Generally speaking it should be okay, but I've also seen some tolerance issues with guarder glock frames.

TRP in it's final form. Unfortunately had to sell it to balance out funds from a recent purchase. Took some pictures to remember it by before saying farewell😢 ------------------------------------------------------------------ Had stainless fever for a while and went buck-wild on creating an all stainless look. The full stainless furniture along with the TACTICAL billboard in all caps shows you mean business. The ambidextrous Tactical Response Pistol lettering jumps in your face just in case you missed what type of gun this is. Even the aluminum slide and frame are posing as stainless with Cerakote. You know you need the extra corrosion resistance - that salty grease from your chip butty lunch is severely corrosive on raw metal. TACTICAL brass checks. The chamber says something about reading a manual. Who are they kidding? Real operators don't read books Safeties blended & Cerakoted. Slide and Frame are H152 savage stainless, safeties and mainspring housing are H150 stainless. The safeties are slightly darker as per the real thing, but doesn't show up as well in pics. Real-steel example of the TRP color scheme. Note the darker tone safeties and unfinished slide stop

Yeah loctite is pretty amazing stuff! Don't use it on really small screws with small screwheads (don't ask me how I know🤦‍♂️). But I use it on all my 1911 / hi capa metal slides with loose sights. As loctite cures it expands a bit and sort of fills in the gaps. It's somewhat "flexible" too, so stands up to impacts a lot better than glue. This is a guarder slide and AM sight, you can see the gap the tolerances are quite loose. With the loctite method I can't get it out if I tried

Get a small tube of Loctite blue (NOT red) threadlocker. It comes quite handy for a variety of purposes including setting sights. Clean the sight notch and the sight, put a tiny dab of loctite, install the sight and then let it sit for 24 hours. you can set the slide upside down on the sights to apply some pressure. Once it sets in it's almost permanent. To remove you just need to heat it for a bit using a hair dryer and tap it out. Superglue is ok, but loctite seems to have better longevity and resistance to impact.

made-to-order set of magwell-cut grips for a Springfield Pro build. Closest to the real thing I could get here in the UK. Should darken up nicely to a deep reddish brown like cocobolo once it gets a few coats of tung oil Real-steel reference I'm going for. Still waiting on the magwell to get here

My Tactical and Practical setup. Which one's your choice? And by practical I mean practical shooting; which makes it completely unwieldy and unpractical. Both weigh in at around 1kg💪 Olight courtesy of a fellow forum member Glock has been short-stroked with the slide stop filed back 14mm so it can still lock back when dry "brass" checks - I can't be the only one who LARPs this with an airsoft gun Added a 150mm crazyjet inner barrel on the 1911 because why not. Ends right before the last baffle on the comp

How about a comp? I think it would look extra race-y with a comp sticking out😁 Especially with the 6 second mount. The TM hammer assembly is pretty durable, so why not spend that money on a threaded barrel (~20 ish) and a comp (~10) I have a similar issue and was looking for an answer on this as well. The trigger stays back by catching on the disconnector, and this is basically held in by friction. When something pushes the trigger bar down (like the BBU when the slide goes back if it's working as intended, or you manually pushing it like you mentioned) this releases this friction hold and the trigger goes forward. I think that the slide is pushing the trigger bar down too much even when in battery, or the friction between the disconnector and trigger bar is not great enough to hold it in place. My theory is that as the trigger bar wears down where it sticks out, it should decrease this issue (less pressure pushing down the trigger bar) But unfortunately I'm not that familiar with Glock internals so kinda hoping someone who's more knowledgeable has an answer. Just FYI mine had the same issue with both stock and upgrade parts; so don't buy a replacement trigger bar as it probably won't fix the issue.

Don't be like me... Be patient and think it over twice, thrice, four times😔 If I recover from this damage I might go for a full Vincent Hanna loadout haha.. Has anyone shown up to game day with a suit before?

What are the chances of this...? About a month or so ago I wanted to start a new project build of Al Pacino's 1991 in heat, then Nova comes out with the EXACT same kit for 3 times what I had in mind It has to be some glitch in the matrix or some sick joke. Contemplated all day and just went ahead with it.. Do you guys have any tips on how one can stop spending money on their toy guns?🤦‍♂️

Ah 🤦‍♂️ that makes perfect sense. (Very shitty educational diagram by the way, helped it make sense a lot)

Thanks for confirming! I figured that would be an issue.. Just being picky I guess. A tighter fit slide somehow equates to quality in my mind, but like you said really doesn't improve much performance wise.

Hello, I'm looking for some advice from you tech savvy gentlemen on a question that I can't seem to find answers here or any other airsoft related forum. Despite the provocatively named thread, unfortunately the question is completely PG. The particular issue is with a TM 1911 with a Guarder kit but I assume this could apply to most metal GBBP's. I would like to increase the tightness of the slide to frame fit on my handgun, as Guarder kits being cast-alloys the slide has a bit of play when there's no mag inserted. While this doesn't affect performance it just eggs my OCD a bit and makes me want to tinker with it. I've done some research on what people do to improve slide to frame wobble on real steel handguns, and it seems like "peening" (?) and "squeezing" (???) are options I could consider. I've attached some example pics I found below, but basically it entails reshaping/bending some material on either the slide or frame rails to tighten up the fit. As crude as it seems this method does seem to have some history and people who swear by it. I have some idea on how I could go about doing this, now the question is how different the typical alloys used on airsoft are compared to steel used on real firearms. Am I asking for trouble here? How malleable are the zinc alloys (the typical pot-metal you see in TM or WE guns) or low-grade aluminum (from guarder kits)? My main concern is that the pot-metal would probably crack/shatter instead of bending when hammered/squeezed; costing £150 as the frame rails are the only "unreplaceable" part on TM 1911's. I've seen some posts of people here with legit workshop setups in their shed, machining zamak receivers and such; and am curious if any of you have any insight to working with pot-metal. Peening a 1911 frame : hammering the frame rails to widen them Squeezing a 1911 slide : squeezing the slide rails to make them grip the frame tighter Similar example of manipulating slide rails, done to a Glock using a hammer:

redditsave.com_greetings_citizen_do_you_have_seditious-g6dfjbg3k4x81-480.mp4

You're telling me I read the situation wrong? How dare you. I have exceptional situational awareness and that never happens

Might be me as a new user not understanding the culture here but why is there so much passive aggressive drama on these forums? I get disagreeing on stuff since it's all personal taste after all, but these weird passive aggressive posts kinda makes me cringe. Makes me think that it might draw away users on an already pretty small community. End of the day we're just a bunch of dumbasses playing with toy guns. I mean there's a pink p90 just a few pages back ffs... 🤷‍♂️ And don't anyone dare disagree with me, I know what I'm talking about. TIER ONE BABY

Hi @july_pi, really enjoying seeing your custom work! Can I ask how you fitted the dovetail front/rear sight on a standard 1911a1 slide (image below)?

Getting good 1911 grips in the UK seems near impossible to be honest. Even more so for non-government sized models. I've seen some officer sizes for sale on Brownells (example), and I'm also currently working with Navidrex (homepage - US based; supplies grips to Brownells UK) on a set of custom made-to-order wood grips. Its around $20 for a custom set of hand checkered grips so pretty affordable. Shipping costs more than the grips though.. Fingers crossed that UPS doesn't muck up the shipping but otherwise Navidrex was really good with accommodating custom options so check them out. This is a standard Navidrex set sold on Brownells (colour is a bit darker with ~10 coats of tung oil). I'm pretty sure they can make something like this in officer size from scratch.