ModernTimes
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Posts posted by ModernTimes
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14 hours ago, B4by_Dr1v3r said:
Thanks for this, I'll check it out.
12 hours ago, Colin Allen said:310 fps on a 0.23 is 1.02J
How is the Joules calculated in the chronos? Does it use the weight to calculate this? I was under the assumption that weight of BBs was only used in calculating the FPS.
My chrono is set to 0.2g BBs and I am testing with 0.23g BBs. Getting a reading of 310 FPS. And before you ask, I can't change the weight because its a chinese cheap model.
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58 minutes ago, Colin Allen said:
Cycling a V2 gearbox without securing the spring guide being secured can be disastrous; don't ask me how I know! It can also make a not insignificant difference to the power.
It is quite easy to make up a collar that you can use to secure it with the screw.1 hour ago, Shamal said:I see what you mean but as @Rogerborgsaid the buffer tube needs to be attached because the screw that attached it also screws into the spring guide which helps to hold it rigid.
So has the gearbox shit itself?
I put the tube back on and this time the spring was fine.
304 - 316 FPS with 0.23g bbs and M115 spring.
Update:
310 FPS average. 0.91J
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1 hour ago, Shamal said:
When you say that the spring bends mid shot what do you mean and how do you know?
I assemble the gun in its core parts. Motor, grip, barrel, battery, spring, everything. Then I test. Its the entire gun without the cosmetics like stock, outer barrel, etc attached. Everything else is there.
Then I fire it auto/semi and it shoots but then the spring inside bends and I can't shoot anymore. I look at the back part which you use to push the spring into the gearbox and this thing is slightly sideways. I take out the spring, the spring is bent slightly sideways, it also has wear marks on the bend.
23 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:If you're testing it before screwing the buffer tube back on, the spring guide won't be secure and the spring might weeble-wobble a bit.
You need that thing? I tested it without. But it doesn't weeble-wobble, it more kabooms and no longer works.
For context the spring I have is the M90 stock. The replacement which bends is the M115. -
On 13/05/2024 at 16:30, Lozart said:
Just the o-ring inside the nozzle (or the tip of the cylinder head tube bit). If it's not mating properly with the lips on the hop rubber, your nozzle is the wrong length.
Update 1:
The lubing worked great. The results for the air seal are now very consistent. Its now a solid 0.770J. With a variantion of each shot of 6+- FPS.
I replaced the spring to the more powerful spring and this took me to a whopping 320 FPS with 0.961J however problem is that the spring bends mid shots.
Any idea on how to solve this? Its clear I need a better spring now. Should I just go for a spring below the one I have now?
Actually, reading back now. I might opt to improve the air seal more and work on that.
Update 2:
Lubed up the piston. Found out through another video that piston is actually losing a decent amount of air. Going to buy a new piston set. I can hear air escaping through this when I do a seal test. It also moves way too much around to maintain good seal even with the lubricant.
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On 02/05/2024 at 09:51, SSPKali said:
cylinder head to air nozzle (always bad with those plastic ones!)
I noticed the original air nozzle is quite bad with no rubber rings inside so I bought a replacement. The issue looks to be the connection between the air nozzle, cylinder head and hop up rubber so I'll just replace this, grease up parts of hop rubber area and do some more testing.
Is there any areas in particular I should ensure I grease?
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On 21/04/2024 at 10:49, Rogerborg said:
This is how to test for end-to-end airseal
Airseal is horrific. Its almost non-existent so will debug this further. Thanks for the tip. My idea thus far is maybe the piston is causing the issues.
Update (17:00)
Join between piston and the barrel itself is the cause.
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On 15/04/2024 at 13:49, Badgerlicious said:
row (5-10) to give an idea on variance, that'd help
After replacing the spring from the default M90 to the M105 the past 8 readings are:
295.8
302.9
300.2
306.4
303.3
308.4
446.5
303.3
On 15/04/2024 at 15:54, Lozart said:the hop rubber might not be sitting quite properly
I'm pretty certain I have put it on properly, I verified multiple times and its aligned with the line on the barrel and placed the correct way up. I've not ordered a new barrel yet no. Was hoping to avoid this.
To add onto this, the bb weight is 0.23g so for outdoor play, an ideal 0.28g is giving me 274FPS. I want to reach 350FPS as much as possible.
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Update:
Added bucking and nub but not much difference.
Measured 0.23g BBs 284 FPS. Any idea what the issue could be? It is also with the dragon motor and a MOSFET now installed.
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18 minutes ago, Cannonfodder said:
rof and speed up trigger response is to simply use an 11.1v lipo battery
Will purchase one later today. Currently have 7.4v's.
23 minutes ago, Cannonfodder said:best option is to change your hop unit
Aren't they expensive? I have also read online that the stock one is good and the upgrade would be as minimal as changing the barrel.
13 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:Something like a Perun AB++ gives you far more features.
I already made the purchase years ago so I will try it out anyways. Perun AB++ is £48.00 so want to avoid if I can to keep costs low.
14 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:fit a Maple Leaf bucking (e.g. 60 yellow)
Ordered. On its way already.
14 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:buying a chrono first
Ordered. On its way already too.
15 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:Big Dragon M140 as a decent improvement over stock motors
You recommended me this 2 years ago haha. I'll do some testing to see the difference once the chrono arrives.
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After changing my motor and spring I realised I messed up and did some stupid upgrades because I thought bigger spring bigger motor means better but it doesn't. I'm back to correct the problems now that summer is coming but I need some advice first.
I have a SA-C08 CORE and I am in the process of installing a X-ASR MOSFET. This is ongoing right now so this is where I am.
I'm looking for a higher rate of fire, faster trigger response time and further distance shooting within limits. What are upgrades I can do that would give me the best bang for the buck to get what I want?
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3 hours ago, Cannonfodder said:
As above. It might be worth having a chat with the neighbours who might see you to stop any possible misunderstandings.
The defence is for buying, importing and manufacturing rifs, not ownership
Really good idea. I didn't call the police to inform them because even though that sounds like a good idea, you know how the police is and if you mention anything related to a gun they'd probably start panicking and send a unit just in case.
I'll just do this and tell my closest neighbours either side of my house.
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I need a place to test shoot my gun for some modifications I am making and I don't want to damage anything in the house so the best area to do the testing is the garden however I'm unsure of how my neighbours would respond.
Last thing I want is a armed unit called to my address. I thought about wrapping the RIF in a bag or hiding it in a bunker style thing but I feel like it would just cause even more suspicion that I'm doing something illegal/bad or shooting an actual gun.
What is the law like in the UK? My RIF is fully blacked out and I do not have a defence at the moment since I have not been enough times. Do I inform the police of it? Do I go ahead and just shoot it in the garden like a normal daily activity?
My initial idea was to call the cops and tell them so that if anyone calls they know what's going on.
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I just recently swapped my stock motor out from my Specna Arms SA-C08 CORE™ Carbine AEG for a Big Dragon M140 and it has given me an increased rate of fire along with what feels like slightly more power. I am still learning and researching into installing a MOSFET since it requires soldering work but that is an upgrade I will also be doing. Both of these upgrades along with getting 11.1v batteries were suggested in a past post from @Rogerborg so thank you for the advice.
As for these upgrades I am doing, is there anything I should be aware of?
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On 13/05/2022 at 15:41, Rogerborg said:
There are no guarantees in airsoft, and little quality control. Everything is a gamble.
Here's what I've found:
11.1V is the cheapest way to make your motor spin faster. Dumb brushed motors aren't complicated: the more voltage you put across the terminals, the quicker they'll spin. They'll also heat faster and wear out faster, but, meh, airsoft, pretty much everything is a consumable. Whatever voltage you're using, you'll want a battery capable of delivering the highest possible amperage (i.e. capacity * C rating). The one thing I am certain of is that you should never let the battery be the limiting factor or you'll put the heat there, and cook it.
11.1V and a £30 Big Dragon M140 motor from AlieExpress with an M100-ish spring (i.e. ~1.1J) gets me an auto fire rate that I wouldn't want to push any higher because of the risk of premature engagement, plus a decent semi auto response.
However, if you make your motor spin faster by whatever means, you can then get overspin and double-shots on semi. This may or may not be an issue for you depending on your site and intended usage, especially if you can pop in a weedier battery just for chrono then restrain yourself on the field.
Adding a mosfet with a pre-cock setting, e.g. a Perun AB++ takes care of the double-tap and improves the semi-auto even further. It also adds the option of bursts, and even of reducing the fire rate if you're over-cooked it. Some Specna COREs have an X-ASR mosfet, some don't, but it's only there for trigger protection, and mine gets in a sulk over current if I put even a Big Dragon M140 or M160 in, even on 7.4V.
Sorry, I've no experience with motors in your price range.
3 hours ago, Sneaky said:As above 11.1V and a mosfet.
Appreciate the response.
From the responses I have got I understand I need to look into getting a new motor, a mosfet and a higher voltage battery. As for the motor, how do I tell whether the motor I chose is better or worse than the Big Dragon?
I'm using this video as a guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bc4IUdgeW4E and it's the reason I chose the Inifinity CNC motor. I'll probably get a battery that's suggested in the video too unless you guys could maybe give me some starting points for each?
So far I have the option of the infinity CNC or the Big Dragon for the motor but I have no clue what to look into in regards to mosfets or batteries.
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I had a look into what I can upgrade on my gun and what I have settled with is trying to increase it's trigger response and fire rate. Problem is I have no clue if what I am about to do will harm any other components and I want to be sure it won't mess up my gun before I do it.
The gun I own is a Specna Arms SA-C08 CORE™ Carbine AEG. The current upgrade it has is a replaced spring which is now a M105.
The motor I want to buy is this ASG Infinity CNC, specifically the U-45000 (as I read that the number corresponds to the motor RPM and I want the highest fire rate possible without breaking things).
https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/asg-infinity-cnc-motor
I also want to decrease trigger response time but I'm unsure exactly what I would need to buy for that.
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On 01/04/2022 at 09:33, Adolf Hamster said:
to echo above the first thing you're gonna want is a chrono if you're going to be messing around with springs etc.
not only can it check the power is correct, but it's a good measurement for consistency and wether or not any remedial work done to the air seal has actually helped.
on the subject of which for range/accuracy you're gonna want to look at the following (in order of difficulty-performance ratio):
1. clean the barrel, and get into the habit of cleaning it regularly. a good rule of thumb is before every game day although sometimes even during a game day might be necessary (especially with a tighter bore)
2. feed it good quality heavier ammo, even the best gun in the world will shoot like shit if you stuff some bulldog 0.12's in it. how heavy is a toss up between your usual round count and your bank balance but generally the 0.28-0.32g range tends to be a good compromise for assault style play.
3. tying into 2 is to look at the hop, doesn't need to be difficult just a drop-in setup like the maple leaf macaron+omega nub combo when installed properly will help spin up the heavies. the longer feedlips can occasionally cause feeding issues in some guns and for those i'm a fan of the pdi w-hop with standard nub (although that'll struggle with really heavy ammo).
4. consistency- you'll need a chrono for this. you want to be addressing any potential leak so that every last molecule in the cylinder is going nowhere but down the barrel propelling the bb. the way to check this is to chrono a few shots and semi and see what sort of range of values you get, the smaller this range the better. this involves cracking open the gearbox too so a big step up in the difficulty.
5. energy- this is where you've jumped ahead to already, but the reason to wait until you're sure the air seal is good is you want to be sure the spring your using is only as strong as it needs to be to get the energy you need. if you have a bad leak and compensate with an overpowered spring you're just loading the box unnecessarily and with less resistance the piston slapping home isn't going to be happy. you don't need to be too exact, being a few fps under the limit won't be a massive loss in range but it might make the difference if the battered to crap filled with shattered nuprol bb's and soaked in mildew from sitting in a shed site chrono doesn't read so precise any more.
6. barrel- at this point the rest of the system should be getting good enough to justify a better barrel, gains aren't likely to be massive here (we're getting to the steep bit of the diminishing returns curve) but something like the ZCI 6.02 stainless barrels are cracking value for money. length wise just stick with the same length as stock, extending the barrel length won't help performance and indeed can actually make things worse if it starts under-voluming the system.
worth noting whilst i'm using the conventional "fps" terminology, that's actually "fps equivalent for a 0.2g bb", when using heavier ammo the raw fps number the chrono spits out will be lower, but don't be fooled into thinking that means less range, the energy (aka joules) is what matters (for site compliance) and even if it's travelling slower heavier ammo at the same energy does travel further (among other advantages).
as for semi-auto response, these days that's easier than ever thanks to the abundance of mosfets with precocking. that'll take a lot of the perceived delay out of the equation without messing with rate of fire in auto (and the potential problems driving a gearbox too fast can have). pair that with a decent motor (warhead brushless being the current kings for pickup speed, although they're not exactly cheap) and you're pretty much there already.
Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely be getting a chrono before I change anything then.
0.28 - 0.33 BBs? I always figured 0.25s were the hottest single in the area. A good mixture of range and speed but I'll have a look more into that.
Thanks for clarifying in regards to the barrel length. That was something I was premptively going to upgrade thinking extending it would increase my range.
So to sum up your advice.
Clean your barrel.
Buy a chrono.
Don't upgrade the barrel is necessarily but you can replace it.
Use good heavier BBs.
Maybe upgrade your hopper.
Is there a step by step way you think I should go about upgrading then? I appreciate you going into detail but this is a lot for some who knows basically nothing about this stuff.
On 01/04/2022 at 10:07, Rogerborg said:Why on earth you'd put an M115 in it without a chrono boggles the mind
Spoke to a few sellers in Airsoft shops and people from different sources who all were telling me that getting an M115 would be fine. They said not to get M120 though.
I also went to a site after this upgrade and the gun fell within restrictions.
On 01/04/2022 at 10:07, Rogerborg said:Big Dragon M140 motors (or "mortors") from AliExpress can come in a bit cheaper and are pretty meaty.
I was told some things are dependent on others so for example if I were to use a M140 spring on a stock motor it would lower its life due to the much increased resistance right? So if I replace the motor would I need to replace anything else? Also what would upgrading the motor do exactly? More power or would it just shoot faster?
Also I'll have a look into all the stuff you mentioned. Thanks for the advice. 👍
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On 01/04/2022 at 07:40, ak2m4 said:
My advice is put the M90 back in and just play with it for a few games. Go and watch some upgrade video's on YT, so many great resources out there. Lot of people rush into upgrades but only end up breaking their only AEG.
You say you want a DMR, would this be a 2nd AEG or are you planning on converting the CORE?
That's the thing, I haven't properly made my mind up yet so I'm still considering my options. I want a mixture of both. A gun that can be tuned to hit those ranges for a DMR setup but also a gun I can use close range CQB encounters.
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I currently have a Specna Arms SA-C08 CORE™ Carbine AEG and I have replaced the stock M90 spring with a M115 spring.
I don't have a chronometer to test the improvement that was made but I was told by multiple people that this was a good quick way to upgrade the gun so I decided to go ahead and pick up a spring since it was cheap anyways.
From this point on I have no clue as to what I should upgrade next or buy. I'm not overly interested in cosmetic stuff I just want to focus on getting together the upgrades necessary for the gun to be an absolute beast on the field and focus the specs into range, super fast semi-auto fire (since I am considering a DMR build) and reliability (so the gun doesn't end up breaking after a year due to wear and tear on the components).
If anyone could give me some hints or pointers on what you think I should do next or how you think I should proceed it'd be greatly appreciated!
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On 05/02/2022 at 22:10, Druid799 said:
From the VERY minimal amount we can see I’d hazard a guess it’s one of these type vests , with one of these type pouches stuck on the front .
I have that one and another from that brand set up and I'm watching it with some software I have set up to track when it's back in stock. Thanks for the suggestion!
On 05/02/2022 at 20:55, TheFull9 said:I presume you never want to go prone by the way? Because you can't with the setup you're suggesting.. at all.
BULLE on flecktarn.co.uk is the best value kit I know of. A 'multicam' PC that costs about £40 new on eBay will most likely be the hottest of hot garbage.
Yeah not planning to really. Thanks for that website link though it looks like a pretty good quality source I'll have a browse around.
On 05/02/2022 at 19:38, Emergencychimps said:Check out weapon762, based in Spain but they stock some good airsoft versions of the expensive kit.
Very hard to tell the exact vest, would agree it looks similar to a jpc and even if it's not, it's great carrier and likely to do you well (it does pretty much everything well).The real ones are more expensive but airsoft clones are generally fine. There is an argument for real versions, but I'd suggest sticking to airsoft ones and the quality of TMC has improved massively and the price is easier.
Some sites like shooter cb gear can be worth looking at too.
Thank you for the link! I have had a brief look and it's a bit expensive for my current budget but nevertheless some of the vests there look very well-made and also cheap. I'll have a deeper look into some.
On 05/02/2022 at 16:37, Alpha.s1 said:From the bit of it you can see, it looks to be one of the various jpc style clone cheapo airsoft rigs. That'll get you started on google at least,
I doubt your looking for crye level, but Warrior assault systems stuff is decent enough for the price, or tmc repro stuff on aliexpress is good, don't bother with ebay, unless your looking for real steel secondhand kit, the ebay sellers only ship it from the same factories anyway for a healthy premium most of the time, just be prepared for some kit to be disappointing at those prices, either that or youll think its the best thing ever until you try the more expensive brands of kit ala crye, c2r, ferro
I have had a look at the sources you mentioned and the brands and they are too expensive for my budget however I appreciate the suggestion.
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25 minutes ago, TheFull9 said:
Like to make it too easy eh...
No idea on the plate carrier, but it's got a triple rifle mag pouch on the front (or kangaroo pocket) with a wide GP pouch stacked on top of that by the looks of it. Isn't just one piece of kit and hundreds of companies make mag and GP pouches in multicam.
Do you know a good place for stuff like that? I have been looking through quite a few websites and a majority charge around £200 for something of good quality. Majority of the eBay ones seem very badly made and the material looks horrible although I have found a plate carrier on eBay and a pouch similar to this for around £55 total.
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I am looking to find the vest in the picture, exact colour and exact style. If anyone can point me in the right direction or anyone knows of something similar even please let me know. I am currently in the process of choosing my loadout and this is exactly what I had been looking for except I just don't know where to buy it.
It seemed to me initially that it's just a camo backpack but worn on the torso but I have no idea.
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On 01/12/2021 at 12:40, Rogerborg said:
Yup, Specnas ship with an M120 and an M90 spring for different markets. The M120 isn't much use for the UK, being too hot for an auto-gun, but not quite enough to run it as a semi-auto DMR. The M90 should notionally give you about 295fps on a 0.2g BB, although you may see a bit more. Like a lot of airsoft, "M" numbers aren't well defined but are generally interpreted as meaning metres-per-second with a 0.2g BB, all highly dependent on air seal, barrel and so on. The M90 should be spot on for indoor CQB, but you might want a bit more for woodland.
If you do, all Specnas come with a quick change spring system which lets you change the spring... well, quickly. You'll need a long screwdriver, a chonky hex key, and a bit of patience the first time, but it's easy enough to do, and an M95 or M100 spring will run you £6.50 delivered.
Thanks. I'll pick that up but how does that help exactly? Doesn't the spring just make it more powerful? Can't I just adjust that gear thing inside the gun when you cock it back? I saw the marshalls doing that when they were chrono'ing the guns before the matches and I figured since you can adjust the power that way can't I just do that instead of getting a new spring?
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On 29/11/2021 at 17:39, TheFull9 said:
As you say above, you can get lots of likes but putting together a smart loadout and still be comfortable and not hate your life as soon you stop standing in the safe zone and step on to the actual field, 100% doable. I just wouldn't recommend any emulating of guys who are doing full on balls-out cosplay for photoshoots if you do actually want something that's good looking but is also genuinely practical. I also do disagree with your sentiment that practicality and efficiency are mutually exclusive to be honest.
The main thing I'd say is, if you put on a PC and helmet then a ghillie jacket with hood, you'll have covered up 80% of the PC and helmet anyway and you'll sweat your tittays off, not to mention being slow, uncomfortable and getting snagged by both foliage and structures - ergo you won't actually look cool. Oh and the helmet will potentially snag inside the ghillie hood too and restrict your head. Personally I own one of these but I'd only wear it with a chest rig, if I go for PC and helmet it'll probably be for indoors and hence no fake trees on me.
Just some experience I've gained having spent a fuck ton of money on gear over the past 15 years, as I always say how you wanna spend your cash is up to you.
Good points and I appreciate the advice. I wasn't referring to having the kit be Instagram worthy in that way I just meant more in a sense that it looks good I just used that wording because the other poster mentioned it in that way. I should have put quotes around it to emphasize that though.
I'm not interested in likes, in fact I don't post much on Instagram at all or any social media as I just don't have an interest in it. I just want to like the way my kit looks regardless of what anyone on the field thinks of it however my main point was that I don't want to go full practical and have a kit just full of pockets or like some cheap low quality gear that is only there for the purpose of storage and being accessible and looks hideous.
16 hours ago, WinterSniper said:I am the pinnacle of a tacticool player, and I ain’t scared to admit it.
Black SWAT load out in all weather, even snow, and a two-tone sniper rifle.
Not practical at all, I get shot loads, but I don’t care. I look cool and I feel good and that’s that.
If you actually have a brain-unlike myself- you would choose DPM or MTP. I’d advise DPM due to being in the UK, as it camouflages a lot better than MTP does
Hell yeah dude. Black SWAT is sick as shit. I was considering it when I saw a picture of someone wearing it but I just like the look of the goggles and the ghillie cloak slightly more than just full black.
21 hours ago, Cannonfodder said:The thing is whether or not something looks good is personal. To use your example of cars, some might think this looks good but personally I think it looks like a polished turd
Pick your kit based on what YOU like, not what others think is "cool". If others don't like your kit then that's their problem
Yes we are. My point is that, when it comes to loadouts, the only person who's opinion matters is the person wearing it. Chasing likes on social media is going to leave you with an impractical loadout which will affect your enjoyment of the game
Amen and I totally agree. As I mentioned to another poster perhaps saying "Instagram" look was a bit misleading as to what I meant. I just meant a look that looks good aesthetically to me. I don't use social media to that point where I would care. The only thing I care about is having a loadout that looks great and cool to me.
I need some ideas for upgrades
in Electric Guns
Posted
It seems even if I change the BB weight on the chrono, the Joules changes but the FPS remains the same.
Seems a reading of 310 - 317 FPS with 0.23g BB.
Is there any other precautions I should take or anything I should add? I'm pretty happy with it. Just maintenance left now.