ajumma

If you tried your friends bolt and it works fine, then maybe buy a new bolt? ? Try following a YouTube guide and disassembling the bolt, then you can check to see if anything is out of place. What exactly is going wrong?

I’ve been testing the G&P 46rd PMAGs for a few days now and thought I’d give a quick write up on here. I got a chance to use them all day in CQB so I feel confident in their capabilities in the short term. First impression: “boy this thing sure is long”. The magazine locks positively into the MTR16 lower, however it does not fall freely every time and likely needs wearing in. I’m able to load 46 rounds consistently using an Odin and the Airsoft Tailoring MWS adapter, however it is a little more finicky than the stanags and does not load as easily. I’ll need to pre-emptively pick up a rebuild kit for my Odin just in case… I loaded them up with a 12-15 second fill of Ultrair green gas but didn’t bother weighing them since I don’t carry a scale around with me. I was easily able to rattle off the full 46 rounds at 20°C ambient temps in semi only, which is no huge feat but is a minimum requirement for me since I primarily play semi-only CQB. My CQB games tend to be fairly short form, lasting roughly 15-30 minutes, and I honestly found myself struggling to get through even two of these 46rd mags in one game. The main question people ask seems to be if having a long ass magazine causes any issues in game, and I can say that for my use case, which is really tight CQB with obstacles everywhere, it did not feel any different to the stanags. The only time I noticed the extra length was when putting them into my dump pouch as they would nearly protrude from the top. As far as I am concerned, I am more than happy to accept this in return for a 30% increase in round capacity. So for now, I can recommend these if you can get over the look. Once I’ve had more time with them, I’ll be able to vouch for their longevity too I’m sure.

SSPKali pretty much answered this already. I can say that if you want to use a tracer unit, this kind of build can be really effective as you can tuck the tracer into the handguard and avoid that extra 3-4 inches of length. I’ve done that with my Angrygun mcmr and acetech blaster.

Yeah I literally knew this, but some other guys were claiming that silicon oil in their trigger box worked really well so I went with that, but luckily in the end it was just 15 minutes of work to clean it out, apply lt2 grease and problem solved! Definitely keeping silicon oil WELL away from my trigger box.

I started having this issue as soon as I put a single drop of silicon oil into my g&p/RiW trigger box lol. Literally a single drop of silicon oil onto the semi/full auto sear and it completely stopped working. My stock trigger box had the same issue. As soon as I started using silicon oil to lube the sears, it started failing to reset after firing on semi. So I ordered the g&p/RuninWorkshop box thinking that the stock one was just too worn down. I was happy with the RiW one but I felt it become a little gritty after a few weeks so I took it apart, applied silicon oil thinking that would help, but instead it made the parts lock up and feel extremely gritty. Eventually I decided to strip it again, clean alllll the silicon oil from the box itself and clean all the different sears individually, then I very lightly lubed all the contact surfaces with abbey lt2 grease, and by lightly I mean extreeemely lightly- it almost looked like there was no lube at all. This completely fixed my issues, and now it runs like a charm! So I would recommend staying far away from silicon oil when dealing with the mws trigger box.

Red gas runs at higher pressure than green/nuprol 2.0, so I would be wary of accelerated wear on weak parts like the nozzle spring and buffer. Aside from those though, it’s perfectly safe to use red gas depending on the ambient temperature. I used Nuprol 3.0 between 4 and 12°C with great success. I stuck to nuprol 2.0 between 12-20 though with no problems!

Like I said, there is a use case here where it is too cold for any kind of propane based gas and you really want to use your MWS, HPA is the only option ? It’ll be clunky to operate but you’ll get an awesome and consistent fps even in the coldest environments.

I mean don't get me wrong, I totally agree with you on the negatives here. Apparently Gunsmodify will make CO2 (Devil Hunter maybe?) version of their PMAGs, which will be perfect for when there's temperatures low enough that green gas/propane completely fails. Tapping your GBBR mags should only really be an absolute worst case scenario/last resort situation. My MWS was completely unusable with black gas at -1°C. If I had to decide between being not being able to play at all vs spending 3 minutes tapping mags and dealing with a line temporarily, I would rather play and use the taps, especially if I already had the taps and the HPA setup. This also doesn't take into consideration that in Sweden the price of Nuprol 4.0 was more than double that of regular ol' green gas, meaning you could end up spending $30-40 in gas over the course of just one day, which is pretty steep imo. Yeah, adding disconnecting+reconnecting lines when reloading, and having to lug around a tank on your bank sucks major ass, but is it worse than not being able to play at all because your gun doesn't work?

HPA tapping your MWS mags when it gets really cold shouldn’t be such heresy lol. I’ve run my MWS at 3-4°C on Coleman propane with fairly good results, but I was semi only and purposely firing more sparingly that usual. I tried running it at -1°C with black gas and it was not useable at all, although at that time I didn’t have Coleman propane and had to use Nuprol 4.0. Given that hotter gas is kind of pricey compared to something like abbey ultraair (£5 a can in the UK), and if you already have hpa taps lying about, I don’t see a problem with tapping the mags for a couple games. It’ll be way cheaper (or free if you have a bicycle pump/refill station), and you’ll get perfect consistency deep into the negative temps.

I'd recommend messaging RuninWorkshop on Facebook. They usually reply extremely quickly and they know this trigger box inside and out. It's likely that you haven't adjusted the grub screws properly yet. I think someone once told me that straight out of the factory the trigger boxes are shipped with the grub screws not adjusted at all or something which makes the trigger not reset, and you need to adjust one of the grub screws to get it to start working.

Interestingly, the dead trigger issue started happening after I took my trigger box apart, cleaned out all the gun and old grease, then reassembled with a little silicon oil on the contact areas around the different sears. I thought I had over-lubed it, so I took it apart again and cleared out as much oil as I could, leaving behind an almost non-visible layer, and I still had a very weak reset. Although, the grittiness was improved after cleaning. I didn't try deburring or polishing the parts yet though, I might do that since I have the stock trigger box as a spare! I intend on trying to break in the RiW G&P trigger box for a few weeks/months since it's still very new, apparently the slight resistance/grittiness on the take-up to the wall (when cocking the gun without the trigger depressed) disappears after the trigger box is worn in. But even if it doesn't go away, I'm extremely happy with the feel of this trigger vs the stock one.

My long awaited (I say long, it literally arrived in 3 business days- posted Wednesday, arrived Monday) new trigger box. My stock trigger developed issues and I was always unhappy with how it felt. First impressions were wow, the construction is SO much cleaner than the stock trigger box. I guess that's what you get with CNC'ing! I dropped the trigger box straight into my MTR16. I needed to very gently mallet the safety to get it seated since it seemed to be ever so slightly misaligned with the right hand side of the lower when being reinserted. I made a very, very short video showing how it performs vs. my stock trigger. All in all, I'm extremely happy with it! I expect the trigger to work even better in a few weeks once it's properly broken in. I will likely take it apart at some point to clean it out and apply a little lube, but it seems to work great ootb.

Hmmm that's really strange. Definitely never heard of it happening with a stock bolt. I can't imagine a different bucking/nub or buffer would have any effect here. You could try putting the stock buffer in and seeing if works?

I had this problem once however it was the opposite, hop was being reduced with each shot. I had this problem when using the first generation AngryGun high speed bolt set (uses their nozzle and stuff). I ended up returning it after being in contact directly with Angrygun, who were unable to reproduce the issue with a fresh bolt from their production line (they literally went out and bought a brand new MTR16 to try and test the problem). Are you using the stock bolt or something aftermarket?

Angrygun 10” mcmr is finally on! I think I prefer this look over the 8” mcmr, although I did really like the feel of the 8” handguard... At least they both use the same barrel nut so I can swap between easily, and I’m using outer barrel extensions to accommodate the extra length which makes it doubly easy. I also tried installing the RiW flat hop chamber. Initial impressions were good, the CNC chamber is well made and the concave buckings have a really good fit against the indentation in the arm. However I was unable to use the buckings they provided with my edgi barrel, it was too thick to fully close the hop chamber. I went back to an Autobot which was also very tight but was able to shut which some fiddling. In terms of adjustment with the hop wheel, there are definitely fewer clicks available, however I was able to sufficiently hop 0.32s. Visually when looking down the barrel, I don’t see any difference between this hop chamber and the stock one with an omega nub, so I have my doubts about the usefulness of this upgrade.