MistakenMexican

“Unsure of make…” *includes photo that clearly says ARES in the part number*

Nothing illegal about it. I used to have a Hong Kong school friend who brought his rig over in his hold luggage. theoretically you could bring it in your carry on, but it would raise eyebrows and not be worth the hassle.

This ☝? Burn down your workplace, not your house.

thanks! I’ll start using that instead of relying on the AF-UK system.

Has anyone else noticed their “my attachments” section is broken? whenever I click on attachments from the account menu, I get this error: I have contacted AF-UK about this however I thought I’d ask and see if I’m the only one or if it’s a wider problem? I’ve tried a few things with my web browser but none of it has fixed it, which makes me think the problem isn’t on my end.

Get the bomber or the angry gun ACRO plate. Boomarms and JKarmy have them. WGC also do the angry gun one and shipping is only £7 for orders under £90.

so I’ve now got two of these. The one below with aluminium slide, steel barrel and ACRO. I’ve built an identical one with steel slide and micro pro sight. Despite its bulk, the gen5 doesn’t seem to struggle shifting the ACRO and it’s pretty easy to aim.

I haven’t had the issue on the GHM9 but it’s common on glocks. Typically due to over travel on the hammer blocking the valve. Not sure about the GHM9. Mine doesn’t do it, but I run Marui spec mags. I assume the hammer has some way of rotating up and out of the way when a magazine has been inserted, so I’d look at whether the knocker has any upwards movement. if that’s all fine, You could try different output valves?

personally I’d avoid any NPAS. Stick to a fixed valve design. Maybe NPAS have come a long way since I last used them, but fundamentally they were less stable and consistent than a regular valve. for the AKX it’s quite simple - you just search AKX on a site like JKArmy or Firesupport. Everything explicitly compatible will reference the AKX. Some of the AKM stuff will fit, but it requires more research. The 130% recoil spring is fine on its own. But if you’re going to open it up, why not change the piston head as well for a better experience. The heavy weight piston heads aren’t expensive and add to the recoil.

I think online retailing and small site shops are the way it’s going. Lots of upgrades are specifically spec’d for TM. So selling Vorsk (for example) makes for a headache in terms of after sales. Theres a few shops around to who sell Vorsk and then TM spec upgrades… but don’t want anything to do with the problems that arise when they’ve sold both to one of their customers ? You’ve also got retailers such as Empire who get stuff in far cheaper than Zero one or FS can get. That might be because they have lower running costs due to having no physical shop. My local shop in Cardiff closed down and merged with their CQB site. It makes a lot of sense as most of their sales are on game days.

the danger makes it more exciting ?

So I’ve had an AKX since the week it was released. As of yet, it hasn’t skipped a beat. The only “reliability” issues I’ve seen are so infrequent that it’s likely just bad luck. my trigger box arrived in a non-working condition. But it was just a spring that hasn’t been fitted properly. Took 5 minutes to fix. But I’m the only AKX owner I know of who’s actually had issues of any sort that aren’t related to modifications. I’m hopping 0.28s out to 45m and getting headshots. The hop dial is still down at below 50%. I reckon I could run far heavier bbs at longer range if need be. Upgrades that are absolutely necessary: - Bavtac/bowmaster/jaeger power down valve. upgrades I’d highly recommend - jaeger hop arm - pink flamingo hop rubber - Bowmaster 130% recoil spring - Magpul MOE+ AK grip Other upgrades I’ve gone with: - bowmaster full steel trigger mechanism - tight bore SS barrel - AB-8R stock - Hephaestus steel selector - Hephaestus steel trigger - Hephaestus heavy weight piston Maintenance wise: - Clean the inner barrel out after every game day. If bought brand new, it comes with a barrel cleaning rod. Use strips of dry microfibre cloth or microfibre cloth soaked in IPA. - I always wipe din the bolt and brush out the lower receiver after a game day. - use a decent metal on metal lubricant for the lower receiver and bolt. I use white lithium, but I don’t recommend it as it’s quite easy to over apply and make worse. - use a decent silicone oil for plastic on metal surfaces. - spend some time learning how to strip and disassemble the bolt/nozzle unit and the trigger mechanism. Hopefully you never need to open the trigger mechanism… but you’ll definitely need to learn about the nozzle as you’ll need to fit the power down nozzle valve. Jaeger precision and commie bear Airsoft do some good videos that taught me a lot.

Agreed, a decent battery charger is no more than £50. years ago, a legit iMax B6 was only £30, I imagine 10 years later with inflation it’s a lot more expensive… but still a drop in the ocean compared to an AEG that cost £1000 or more!

I have fitted two of the solid grips and 3 of the skeleton grips. The magazine fit isn’t tight, the magazine “tightness” is about the same as an OEM grip. The solid and skeleton grips are reasonably robust. I’ve only managed to break one of them, and that was the skeleton grip by over tightening the grip screws. i imagine if you drop the skeleton grip, without a magazine, it might be liable to crack. But the regular solid grip is far more robust. I havent needed to do much sanding, it’s been a drop in fitment with most of the parts on the market. i only found you needed to sand the magazine release area a bit if you’re using the oversized extended magazine releases.

Airtac, AT and FC all do Odin M12 adapters. you should be fine loading the AKM mags using a genuine M12 and a decent adapter.

I’m a bit late to this thread. So hopefully you’ve not bought just yet. if you’re going to run a pistol only as your first gun, I’d recommend something simple, reliable and easy to upgrade/repair. That narrows it down to the TM Hicapa in my opinion. It’s very reliable, plentiful, easy to use and a wealth of parts to repair if it breaks. the HK45 is a great pistol but isn’t the easiest for repairing if it breaks. I’d also ask you to consider they Tokyo Marui Gen5 MOS. It’s fantastic out of the box. Theres a few options for spares and repairs, but there will be a flood of new parts in the foreseeable future. It’s less simple to work on. But works so well that you shouldn’t need to upgrade much.

Taken from a WhatsApp group I’m part of ?

When I was at university, my housemates girlfriend used to visit on Tuesdays. For bit of fun, I used to do Taco Tuesdays for the house. As she only ever saw me cook Tacos… She assumed I was Mexican…

I don’t “need” 20 glocks… but here we are… I have 5 Gen5 MOS slides and not enough glocks to put them on ?

They have the V2 mags at AW if you’re already buying a G17.5

Must… not… buy… another one ???

Currently those cases are on offer for £52 which means they’re about £67 after taxes are added. Which is a great price ? just consider, IF they were to sell them at full price for £90 (plus taxes), there’s a British shop that sells pre-cut pistol hard cases for £85. The case shop do MAX cases with pre cut foam for £85 and I think shipping is free (?) at least it was when I bought one

This is me as well. If I don’t get email notifications about it, I don’t check it for a week. Personally, I reckon it’s down to level of effort and quality of the goods. The sellers ignoring questions want your money and that’s it… if you’re inclined to ask questions, you’re probably already too much effort for them. The chances are you’d contact them once you received the goods and realised it’s not as good as you expected. Dealt with a few people over the years who sell dodgy kit and then block you once they’ve got your money and thrown it in the post.

Are you using the purple nineball airseal hop rubber? If so, nineball purple hop rubber is a soft rubber (it’s something like a 50 degree), so it’s only really good for .3g and lighter. if you want to be hopping .36s, try their “hard” compound bucking (red). Also, at .36, you might need a tensioner in the hop arm. I use a Hadron hang cut down into a T shape to complement the unbridged section of the inner barrel. alternatively the Pink flamingo and noir 60s are good and have a large contact surface for heavier bbs. how are you getting on with the detonator threaded barrel?