Lex Dangler
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Posts posted by Lex Dangler
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44 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:
We seem to be going a tad off topic (nothing new there), so with that spirit in mind, I did see this gun in action and passed judgement on it..
It was bloody awesome!. As soon as that trigger was pulled about 2000 bb's just spewed out in a torrent of plastic barrage... I believe the chap that owned it was using propane to fill it up as I remember the smell of the gas reminded me of my BBQ!
I believe it was stock as I asked him if he'd done any changes to it and he said nothing but an adapter was needed for the propane... one thing I did notice though, it kept stopping intermittently... no ides why but he knew how to resolve the 'jams' pretty quick.
Ooh, ol' painless! 😍 Looks perfect for cqb!
Wonder if you could dual wield 🤔
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3 minutes ago, Davegolf said:
Superfluous... that’s a big word for Friday evening @alxndrhll
Yeah, a bit excessive 😁
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22 minutes ago, Skara said:
You make a point, but between having a hose and fighting temperamental mags, I'd go hose all day
Not saying that every GBB mag is shit, but HPA has a clear advantage over gas/co2:
it's constant pressure output, no matter any external factor
With that being said, I'm still a fan of function over form and I still think that HPA tapped pistols are among the best things you can have in tight CQB fields
I see your point re hpa vs gbb but I'd opt for an electric smg over both, for a primary anyway
Ahh, all this talk is making me itch for some action!
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1 minute ago, AlphaBear said:
Acceptable if you think you're a Ghostbuster 😂
Only difference is that the proton packs are cool! 👻
Ooh, that's an idea! Make an airsoft proton pack! 🤔
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15 minutes ago, Skara said:
Definitely acceptable.
Why you wouldn't want the best tool for the job is beyond me.
Each to their own I guess. In my mind it's making a pistol, that's not supposed to be cumbersome, cumbersome. Being tethered by the hose and with that fat mag it alters the balance and freedom of movement somewhat. Plus it looks like shite 💩
I suppose it depends on your play style and the situation but personally it's not for me
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43 minutes ago, rocketdogbert said:
Yes, Umarex are utter, utter shite pistols, made by VFC.
They look pretty, make great door stops, that’s it.
Ha! Okay, duly noted 👍
11 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:Although some people think this apparatus is acceptable as weapon of choice. I just don’t get it! It looks pants. Of course I’m not just talking about the gold trigger!
It does look f@cking ridiculous! I've seen so many god awful looking hicapas that the owners seem to be proud of for some reason 🤷♂️
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10 minutes ago, Cr0-Magnon said:
Again "in my experience" but I found that the AA mags worked best in the AAP and using Umarex or TM mags, I sacrificed FPS. So no, this was with AA mag in the AAP and Umarex mag in the G19X. The only thing I can think is it's possibly just a good system. Negative airsoft has stated that the best GBBP is the VFC HK45CT (from memory he was getting over 100 shots from one mag) and of course the Umarex G19X is also made by VFC. I know indoors I was getting 4 - 5 mags worth of BB's from one gas charge, so that matches the HK45CT.
Yeah I watched negs vid on hk45ct too. So maybe tm isn't the most gas efficient platform after all!? 🤷♂️
Anyone else have good things to say about umarex pistols? Or comparisons vs tm etc?
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1 hour ago, Cr0-Magnon said:
The AAP is definitely fun and having a small bolt rather than full slide of course helps massively with efficiency. However I was surprised to find my Umarex Glock 19X to outperform it in that regard. Of course that's just the experience I had under the conditions I was in, I couldn't guarantee it to anyone else as it doesn't seem to make sense to me.
Yeah that seems odd, did you use the same mag in both?
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1 hour ago, Skara said:
The AAPs against the TM G17?
Roughly the same performance, 55/60 metres on 0.3s with a good degree of consistency.
Mind you, I have replaced the hop rubbers on all 3 guns (running 50/60° ML decepticons). Stock none could reliably lift 0.3s (you'd get 1 in 5/6 shots properly hopped and the rest was diving down at about 20/25 metres).
Efficiency wise, they're similar, they go through the full magazine with enough gas left to go through almost a second one (haven't really tested, I top up gas anyway when reloading).
I run the glock on TM and AA mags because it light strikes on WEs (in summer), I run the AAPs on WE and AW mags (it sounds stupid to run "inverted" mags but I found the AA mags to not be as efficient as the WE ones)
Nifty little guns for the price, if it's your first GBB I'd go TM though, as plug&play as it gets for everything airsoft really and there are tons of upgrades available as they are the benchmark when it comes to airsoft guns (all the gearboxes are TM clones, all the GBBs are TM clones, all the VSRs are TM clones, you get the idea
)
Cheers for the info 👍
I'm not so keen on the aesthetics of the aap.
It won't be my first pistol, I've had several over the years but I've been out of the sport for a while, it must be 20 years since I last skirmished! TM was always king back then and I wondered whether that was still the case as there have been a lot of developments and new brands since... Apparently so! 👑
36 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:Good man 😂
.
Talking of AA-P01’s I joined the Facebook group and saw this. Seems like the platform is beginning to get a huge following similar to the MK23. I have no HPA equipment myself so can’t really speak about the platform. However a drum mag with loaded up with MAPP gas is something else.
I said I wasn't keen on the aesthetics but now I'm not so sure!
Out of curiosity, what other brands make plastic pistols?
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On 14/12/2020 at 19:12, AlphaBear said:
For me it was a toss up between a TM FNX45 and the TM HK45. Then @Lex Danglercame along dangling he's HK45 at me which frankly was a great deal (thank you sir) and I couldn't resist. I blame @herosharkfor swaying me towards HK porn
If I could grab a FNX45 in black (with a suppressor I'd have pondered that as I've just heard such good things about them ....@Lex Danglergrab one dude and then when you get bored of it, I'll have it off you.... but in black not that Hasbro tan colour <insert throwing up emoji>
((As they say in Star Wars..... That's no moon its a TM .... Move along nothing to see its a TM, look sir it's a TM (not a droid... ))
I'm on it dude! I think my decision has been made, just got to sell a few bits and bobs and I'll be getting one, in black of course, that's a no brainer 🤷♂️ I'm with you on that awful tan colour! I will report back with my thoughts on it and I'll let you know IF I get bored of it 👍
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On 14/12/2020 at 11:45, Skara said:
The only other GBBs with similar efficiency are my two AAP-01s
How do they compare otherwise?
On 20/01/2021 at 19:42, emilianoksa said:Well somebody had to say it so I suppose it falls to me:
TM hi capa.
Simple single action mechanism means there isn't much to go wrong.
And it is easy to fix if it does.
Ha, I'm surprised no one mentioned sooner!
On 07/01/2021 at 21:32, MadMole said:TM MK23. As its non Blow back doesn't even waste gas pushing the slide back
That trigger pull though!
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7 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:
But when you swapped the 13:1 for the 12:1 set...
if you short stroked the sector in 13:1 - did you do the same for the 12:1
coz if not then you will compressing the spring more etc...
and thus lose a bit on ya rof etc...
I didnt shortstroke on the 13:1 or 12:1, I checked all teeth are present and correct which is more than can be said for my own!
7 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:Silly question but thought I'd ask just in case...
Also if your 12:1 set has a 9 tooth bevel as opposed to a 10t one,
(if you use a 9t bevel on a set that came with a 10t bevel then the ratio
increases by 10% so a 12.65:1 becomes 13.91:1 or slower than the 13:1 set)
Your motor could be mislabelled - try the JG or something ???
Checked bevel teeth too, both have 10.
I considered that maybe could be an issue with the u22000, it looks legit unless guts had been swapped so also tried the jg blue with the 12:1 for comparison and got the same rof.
7 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:The difference on 12:1 & 13:1 is fuck all as I said previously
me personally I'd say the 12:1 is 12.75:1 & 13:1 is like 13.5:1
according to brill armoury/armory (damn yanks & their own English)
according to them they are 12.65:1 & 13.65:1 - well whatever...
like the 16:1 (17.25:1) to 18:1 (18.65:1)
the difference in ratio is about 8% (13.65/12.65 or 18.65/17.25 = about 1.08)
this 8% difference in ratio will not yeild 8% in rps as the slight increase in load from ratio
so realistically expect only about 5% increase to the final rps
which if you are hitting say 16~17rps on 13:1, or say 13rps on 18:1...
then switching to slightly faster gear set won't even gain 1 single round per second
(again the difference is really fuck all)
I wasn't expecting a dramatic gain in rps but a gain nonetheless. Certainly not a drop! It was as much to experiment and learn than anything else.
7 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:with regards to amp draw & stuff...
amp draw on Leviathan/Titan's differ to what power meters say
so I personally stick with a meter that I test all guns with
the fancy bollox mosfets can tell the exchange rate, sunrise in Mongolia, the latest share prices
but it is fucking useless at informing me the amp draw of another gun or stock gun with no Titan in it
plus with all them gubbings n shit, I tend to think it reports the amp draw differently to a meter
so I take what them fancy mosfets say about the amp draw with a pinch of salt
simply because I don't think you can compare what a Titan says the amps are Vs a power meter
(same power meter used on all guns when checking/benchmarking)
so nah soz, I reckon a meter will say the amp draw on say 5 sec auto is about 13 amp max
& if it reported the draw being over 20a then the shimming is shit or spring is way overpowered
The other issue is that these fancy bollox mosfets do skim a little off the max possible rof
It isn't their fault, you can't help it - every diode has a forwarding voltage
which basically means it needs a small voltage to turn on - about 0.5v
plus all the other gubbings in that board & reporting what time sunrise is etc...
you are having the voltage availbe to the motor terminals slightly reduced
not a mega amount like 7.4v out of a 11.1v, but you are going to have the full capacity slightly skimmed
So what the Titans report on, the overal rof even with 100% rof is going to vary slightly
to what say an old school aeg might achieve or state with a seperate meter on it
(another daft question: you have got rof set to 100% not say 90% - just asking)
I appreciate that the fet might skim a little but then it would have done the same with the 13:1, so I still would have expected a slight climb in rps.
One thing I had considered was the motor is struggling more to pull the spring (pdi 150) with the 12s than with the 13s? But had read that the u22000, and the jg blue for that matter are more than capable of pulling that load with both set ups?
And yes, rof is set to 100%, that was one of the first things I checked when I was trouble shooting.
Is there a particular affordable amp meter you would recommend?
7 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:The weird thing about shimming is to ensure you tighten the box up the same as previously...
The urge to clenched fist tighten the screws up - just to be safe...
Nope - finger & thumb on the screwdriver - nipped up moderately tightly
just like you did when shimming....
you tighten the box EXACTLY or with the EXACT same force/torque as previously for shimming
When you try to mega tighten the box you do throw the shimming out a smidge
and if you had very slight play when you shimmed it nicely...
Then expect that slight play to begin to disappear when you clenched ya fist to tighten the box up
So consistancy really matters like most things on reassembly
I'm confident that the shimming is good, I used half shell to perfect bevel to pinion/get motor height bang on then went from there. I tightened the gearbox properly (finger tight then just a tweak more every time on every screw) and ensured movement was still fluid and still some play, then checked there was still some play after greased (superlube silicon grease, not too much or little) and fully built with cylinder set etc. In fact, when I shimmed originally with 13:1 there was NO play yet that build achieved higher rof than 12:1 with play 🤷♂️
I also checked bevel and pinion meshed well with both motors and they both did perfectly at 90degrees.
I shimmed several times in fact, varying my method each time in case I was at fault but rps was the same each time.
7 hours ago, Sitting Duck said:Wiring = wiring can make a slight difference
not saying totally rewire a gun, but for sure ensure the motor connectors are snug
and make good firm contact with motor terminals
as you try different motors and/or reopen the box, them connectors do tend to loosen slightly
so check & if required crimp the contacts with thin nose pliers to ensure a sound connection
This is one thing I have noticed! The motor terminals have become slightly loose since everything has been taken apart and rebuilt so many times now, so I will crimp the connections a bit and give it a whirl, hopefully that's the problem, I can't think of anything else it could be. I will post results when I've done it.
Just to note, all the wiring is in very good condition otherwise and I have ground down the nubs on the gearbox so there are no pinch points.
Thank you for your suggestions duck, you've been a great help 👍
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15.6 rps now 🤷♂️ I'm giving up for the night. I think I might revert back to 13:1 🙄
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Okay, I think I've found the culprit! Shimming seems bang on until I pop the cylinder set in, the Tappet plate presses against the sector gear, I'm assuming that with the gearbox closed it's squeezing against the sector and creating drag, there are marks on the Tappet to suggest this. It also explains why there is some deliberate play in the sector gear until I complete the gearbox fully then none at all. I've tweaked the shimming all round to allow the tiniest amount of clearance and still maintain good meshing, sector and spur are as close as can be without touching and bevel is still bang on for pinion height. Gears have .05mm of play except sector which has a minute amount if any, it can't move in either direction or it will bind against either the Tappet or the spur 😬
If you hear loud shrieking hopefully it's me with joy rather than my gearbox imploding!🤞
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36 minutes ago, Davegolf said:
You should have clearance on all your shimming, to allow for lubricant ingress, heat expansion etc.
Typically 0.04 - 0.10mm.
And you need to do this with the shell halves bolted up properly.
Once all gears are fitted, shimmed up, you should be able to whiz them round with your finger driving the sector gear.
Driving from the bevel gives you great mechanical advantage, in your case 12x as much
Aaaand check for tight spots during rotation, which could point to tooth profile faults, casting marks, burrs etc
Thanks, I'm opening it back up! I'll take another .05 off each gear and give it a whirl 😬
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Since the screen shot, temps have risen to mid 20s
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When I shimmed I had the tiniest amount of play on each gear, less than .05mm (I thought it would allow for them to roll a little better) I noticed that after putting the gearbox together completely, there was zero play with the sector. I don't know if that might flag anything?
Okay, update, freshly charged 1450mah 30c 7.4. Rps up to 16, still not as much as I was getting with 13.1 and the jg blue 🤷♂️
Amp draw seems quite high? I've attached a screenshot with the details...
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Thanks for your response dude. The battery seemed good, around 7.9v but I'm charging it fully as we speak, I did try two, both almost full and got the same result. Spring is the same, I've not checked fps, the gearbox is only in the lower at the moment.
I didn't count all teeth, the bevel has 10 and sector has 16
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Good afternoon fabulous people!
So, I have just finished finished tweaking my gun, I changed out the jg blue for the usg 22000 and shs 13:1 for shs 12:1, I was expecting a very slight increase in rof however it's actually dropped from around 17 to 13rps!? I have carefully reshimmed, everything else is as it was, no aeo correction was needed, im using a decent spec 7.4. My mosfet is telling me the amp draw on semi is around 22 and auto around 16 which seems okay? I can't for the life of me figure out what might have gone wrong. Might anyone have any ideas?
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1 hour ago, AlphaBear said:
I was playing around with a TM HK45 yesterday. Goodness. Incredible to hold and the blow back was strong. But more importantly the range was exceptional. And that’s just stock. I may chuck in a flamingo 50deg bucking and see what it does.
Pleased to hear that you're enjoying it 👍
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3 minutes ago, rocketdogbert said:
Conversly, every standard TM except the 1911. Never had anything but trouble with them. The more modern TM’s with 15mm nozzle are the bestMy current favourite is the FNX, huge range, consistent grouping, 29 round magazine that will fire 87 rounds before you need a refil, optic ready, cheap mags
So which have the 15mm nozzle? The FNX looks pretty sweet as well!
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53 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:
that's like asking which formula 1 car uses the least amount of fuel, but also is the fastest in a straight line and costs the least to build.
at some point certain design goals can become mutually exclusive.
however as a less facetious answer would be the tm range, in this case the objectives of good accuracy, gas efficiency and cold weather resistance have been traded for the somewhat more subjective "feel" of a lightweight pistol with a plastic slide.
or you could argue many co2 pistols, which trade their performance for long term reliability (or lack thereof)
Interesting analogy 🤷♂️
I expected TM to come out on top for most.
11 minutes ago, Impulse said:Anything TM...
Honestly though? TM 1911. Magazine gas reservoir is tiny, but I've used it in all weathers and it continously cycles flawlessly. I love it.
I didn't consider that there might be differences in size of the reservoirs 🤔
Posting to Poland 🇵🇱
in General Discussion
Posted
Hello peops, I have someone in Poland who would like me to send them some parts, m4 receiver set, outer barrel, handguard, mags and a couple of less conspicuous parts. I wondered whether anybody had any experience or information about whether I can do this and if so, how I should go about doing it. Legality, risks, services to use etc? I'm struggling to find any information about it online. I hope someone can help. Many thanks in advance 🙏