GregArm

Yes ,thats true but one way or the other mocking always sucks , especially in sensible parts like hopup ...
In this case I reckon easier to restore the original wheel which is handles properly fine bbs from 0.36g.

@P4radox as a fix you can cut a small square of plastic sheet, the sort that the clear packaging display boxes are made of - that the guns modify hop unit probably can in lol - and superglue it onto one of the hop arm paddles.

Basically increasing the relayed pressure applied from the first (hop wheel driven) lever to the second lever (pushing the nub)

@P4radox stock tm hop unit, bucking and Super Nub will lift 0.36

Same problem, though I love GunsModify actually this wheel not able to lift up to 0.36' ,I use 0.30g and I have to turn up the wheel almost until the "knock" the effective province only the last
5-8 click and have no acceptable/stabile solution for.
    If you wanna use the orginal hopup wheel you should use the origi spring+nub the GM one too strong thats why it breaks the plastic wheel.

I am not sure what size screw is needed but if you measure with some calipers the hole and round up to the nearest whole mm you should be able to Google for it.
 
Eg. If it is 2.78mm hole I would get some 3mm diameter Metric grub screws in a few lengths (6mm / 8mm / 10mm maybe?! Not seeing the original I am guestimating!)
I would love to know this too!
 
TBH the MWS trigger isn't that bad, just has feel unlike AEG switches 🤣
 
I have found that stripping the trigger box and polishing the parts (and clearing out the grit and sand that the previous owner had filled it with!) helped a lot. Some 0.1mm shims (M4 and M6 size) to get rid of any excessive play / twist on parts can help but too many and it jams up...you need patience for that! I spent a previous life servicing and tuning MTB suspension so I love this sort of thing 🤓
 
I have a Wii Tech hammer and spring on order as my trigger set would not play nice with the Wii Tech marksman sear (maybe due to worn parts?) so I will report on that once I have fitted it all. The Wii Tech parts are really well finished but replacing the entire trigger box contents is about $200 😖😱 
 
TL;DR: Don't let the trigger put you off.
 

Probably just a Metric thread grub screw, easy to get a packet of them from Ebay or Amazon. Maybe throw a bottle of blue (mid strength) LocTite in the basket too!

@Marroksteel $$$$$ Are you the guy selling COVID masks and hand sanitiser? 🤣

http://www.bunnyworkshop.com.hk/airsoft/UAC_Aluminum_Lightweight_Bolt_Carrier_for_Marui_M4A1_MWS_GBB_Sliver
 
 

Be aware, if you run a HSB, you get a FPS increase.

I didnt notice much cycling rate difference if im honest?

Gunna remove and see what It feels like this weekend

Yeah, there are many different.  But I went with the SAI and UAC both working great. 

@GregArm I’d buy the HSB first and if you find yourself with the extra cash - buy yourself an extra bolt of Aluminium with all the guts. This gives you an emergency bolt for long games in case of the standard breaking. But this not really needed and will cost you around 120 €. Rather then spend the money on sporting your gear. Last advice: The HSB is enough  

@GregArm you still need the spring and buffer. You put the spacer in first, then the spring, then the buffer. The spacer pre-compresses the spring for better response 

Also, there’s no point in putting a light bolt carrier in and then a stupidly heavy buffer as they will cancel each other out. I found the angry gun super recoil buffer (silver one) much too heavy. It gave a good kick, but it was a sluggish kick. 

Hello and welcome!
 
So you are happy with your gun as it is?
You are happy with your guns power?
You are not allowed full auto.
 
So your goal is to increase cycle speed, and reduce recoil?
 
I can only comment on personal experience - a UAC Aluminium bolt with HSB Spacer will make for a very fast cycle.
 
You may need to unscrew your buffer tube 1 or 2 turns to make the bolt catch reliable.