jsmithski

Some info regarding Mapp Gas. Today I was out playing in the cold: 9C but no wind. I did a test using 3 different gases, so here are the results: 14kg Puff Dino: 1J Smart Gas Power Green Gas (they claim it works in low temps): 1.16J Mapp Gas: 1.2J But the real difference was in recoil and cool down. Mapp had no issue firing on full auto even after I emptied the mag by releasing all gas at once (so the mag was really cold). Sorry for no pictures or video but I had no one to help me with that today. I will continue testing even in lower temp.

Yes, the one on my pic is from the mp5, but that’s the same part just different shape. You insert the screw from the inside so that you can use an Allen key later to turn it just like the angry gun npas.

Here there’s no washer, the screw positions the floating valve by pushing it off the nozzle spring retainer. Question to you all, what’s the trick to make the MWS sound like Inokatsu? If you ever heard how Inokatsu m4 sounds then you know what I’m talking about. Anyone has an idea?

Tech tip: if your original handguard wobbles, it is most likely a stripped screw at the bottom of the barrel. Using a few mm longer one will fix it, there’s much more room and the original screw is very short. Since original threading is short you will need use some force to screw in the longer one, but you can do that without a threading tool.

This is what you need to do.

Today I made a DIY npas using stock floating valve and m3x8mm set screw. Works just like any other npas but I think 8mm is too long and eventually 5mm screw would be enough. I was able to get consistent FPS so I think it makes no sense in spending money on the commercial stuff. This is my second npas (first I made for the vfc mp5 gbb), it’s a simple job anyone can do.

Depends on the site, I played indoor cqb in the winter where the temp was same as outside. You do not need to upgrade internals for mapp gas if you use it when it’s cold - it will have the same effect on the gun as green gas when it’s warm. The fun starts when you’re looking for more recoil or FPS or both and switch to a more powerful gas when it’s warm thus increasing the wear on internals - then you need upgrades. Anyway, gas guns are so much fun I don’t mind the additional maintenance, fiddling with it it’s also part of this hobby (at least for me).

I don’t have any numbers, I can get it to you this weekend if I go out skirmishing as it’s going to be below 10C. Mapp gas brand does not matter, internal upgrades are not needed as mapp gas in cold weather will have same pressure output as green gas on a warm day. But indeed some math should be done here.

I said “close to 0”. I use 14kg green gas in temperatures not less than 10C. Below I use propylene (mapp gas) and I did not notice any issues.

You have the same condition as I do. Constant improvement that costs more than stock gear. Those beasts work on green gas in temperatures close to 0. They are much better than the average AEG. If you want to start your gbbr journey, go for it. You’ll end up spending a lot of money, much more than on AEGs though, and I’m not talking about repairs but simply upgrades. I own several gbbrs and I would not trade them for best in class AEGs. Never.

So shimming the trigger box did not help? You said it works fine now.

Bolt catch. When I gently press to release it, it first makes a short move, just like the trigger and friction can be heard. I think the bolt catch moves sideways too much so needs shimming. Anyone tried fixing it?

Regarding the trigger, I did disassemble the thing, polished all rough surfaces I could find (scratched due to friction) and relubed (ptfe grease). I do not notice any change in the trigger pull though, works just fine so I guess it’s just the design that sucks a bit. I also noticed that moving parts are silver-like coated but the coating can easily chip off, again this is probably low quality stuff.

One word regarding UBR: heavy. I got that one on my KWA Kriss Vector and it adds a lot to the weight. Also I like my m4a1 unmodified, there’s something really sexy about the original look

Inspiration for you

Holy cow, have you seen that?

I also played today, 13C outside no wind. I was using Puff Dino 14kg green gas with no silicone oil and filling mag for about 9 seconds. I noticed power dropping on some of my mags but few were just awesome - I tried full auto and it worked. Not sure why some mags were troublesome though.

It’s also easy to add brass tubes to protect the rollers, will need some shaving first but looks like a simple mod.

I wonder what’s the durability of a full plastic bolt. Here’s the original one after thousands of rounds on full auto with heavy recoil kit on.

$44 with shipping isn’t that bad. I just paid $28 for shipping some parts from Taiwan

Wow, I did not know. I would add some metal tubes on the rollers though, plastic will not hold for too long. Anyway, maybe I’ll try that out.

Bolt or the nozzle? I’m talking about the carrier not the nozzle that loads bbs.

That’s your problem. I tried many different setups with Hephaestus recoil kit (with and without weights, spring tube only etc) and I can only say that the stock setup works best (hpa is a different story of course). Another thing some people tried including myself was brass piston end -even though it will never break, it makes recoil sluggish and consumes more gas. Keep it stock, use good seals and original valves and you’ll be happy. I’m waiting for someone to come up with a plastic bolt, this would end all cool down issues.

Hey guys, some of you claim that KV does not perform well OOTB. Since mine was always laser accurate after I made some upgrades to it, here’s the list of things I’ve done: 1. Installed KWA LM4 low power floating valve, this keeps the gun at 1.14J on GG (depends on the gas and temp of course) and also saves gas. 2. Removed heavy recoil kit. Man, this thing is annoying, slows down the recoil and uses a lot of gas. 3. installed ra-tech/maple leaf evo II 6.01 barrel and metal hop up chamber. Paired with a dedicated maple leaf blue bucking can hop any BB weight. 4. Replaced the hammer (was dented already) and the hammer spring (it snapped but the gun still worked, not consistently however and I found out by chance only, while disassembling it) 5. Replaced the piston seal, when it’s old it hardens and does not seal against the cylinder too well - here you’ll loose some air for sure 6. Original KWA release valves are much better than the aftermarket ones, really makes a huge difference so make sure you replace them 7. Double feeding may happen when it’s time to replace mag lips 8. Gas seal on the top of the mag needs replacement or a shim if is too old - will not seal against the bolt 9. I’ve added some electrical tape inside the mag well to reduce mag wobbling, it help a lot with consistency but make sure your mag release is in good condition, when used it will position the mag lower than it should sit and of course you’ll loose gas there.

To keep this thread alive I’ve made my own DIY redneck NPAS inspired by this video: it works perfectly, I was able to get down from 1.55J to 1.15J.