Sure. You just drill and thread the valve for m4 set screw. It works as any other npas. Ideally the screw shout be flat not spiked but that’s not a big deal. Anyway, this works but can only decrease FPS. If you want more FPS you need a different valve (like the vfc mp5 one) or use a longer valve spring with the mws valve (around 50% longer).
Honestly I don’t get it guys. You keep buying that overpriced shit and completely ignore the easiest way. I made my own DIY npas using a set screw and the original valve and it’s consistent and easy to adjust. Also for those looking for a high FPS, with 370 barrel and the Vfc mp5 gbb nozzle I’m getting 2.6J with 0.30g and it’s also consistent but uses much more gas as it sits higher in the initial position so needs more time to close the nozzle = pushes more gas into the barrel.
Guys, one of my friends who runs a Polish airsoft store will soon make a huge order from WGC. He promised me attractive prices as he got a deal with them so I told him there’s a great interest in TM MK18, mags and custom parts on this forum. He will make us an offer if we give him a list of items we would like to get. Shipping from PL to UK is not expensive so it may be a great deal to everyone. Obviously individuals will be purchasing stuff through the store so it’s not a group purchase or anything like that so no payment is needed upfront but he’d like to know what items to order. Anyone is interested?
It is not a complete upper. You still need the inner and outer barrel, hand guard, gas block etc. it makes sense to switch to that product not to build another upper with it, that’s the whole point as you can easily replace the inner barrel here.
Important thing is to not twist the spring while installing the nozzle in the carrier. The TM spring is weaker than the DP enhanced (I fckin hate that word popping up on every piece of crap nowadays) spring but the DP works fine on my MWS. 300% probably does not even allow the nozzle to stay with the bucking for a split second.
Continuing the digression I used to play at Tac City North and South, Forge Arena and a cool site in Ventura County. I used to live in California for some time but also few other states.
I doubt this has anything to do with adjustment. You can’t twist the spring, also it would not do anything honestly. I just don’t see what the c clip is for if the whole thing screws in/out.
Something is wrong with that design. How come the oring seals against the bolt if it’s not screwed all the way out? And what about the return spring rotation?
disassemble the trigger box and lube all contact surfaces, it helps a bit. The most drag is on the small part here, I think it needs shimming as it scratches the unit body.
Got it but is there a posibility to move that screw in/out? There’s an oring on the other side so screwing it out would make the oring sit tighter possibly. I got no experience with GP npas.
I think that “upgrade design” is to better seal against the end of the bolt. Does it allow to screw/unscrew that shiny end part? If so, does it do anything?
Just note that mapp gas smells like shit so you’ll need to get used to it. Or add some scent oil just like you would add silicone oil to the top of the can before screwing in the adapter
Nope. You need the same adapter that is used for propane bottles. I use this one
https://www.airsoftatlanta.com/products/airsoft-innovations-gungas-propane-adaptor-kit
Mapp is as dangerous as green gas, they are all highly inflammable. Black gas is just Nuprol’s trade mark, what it is chemically I don’t know but Red and Black most likely contain propylene. Mapp is just cheaper.
I was testing on 0.3g bbs. On Mapp FPS were over [email protected], Puff Dino was [email protected] and smart gas was giving [email protected]. Using NPAS is a must in such case. I used Rothenberger. When it’s below 10C imho it makes sense switching to Mapp but some small npas adjustments may be required (however on lighter bbs it may not be a problem).