emilianoksa

Thanks. My main concerns would be reliability (GHK quality control has come in for major criticism in recent years) and parts availability. I also have misgivings about the mag design with the gas intake valve set in a screwed on base. And they are very expensive to replace if you can't fix them. I noted that Roketdogbert was quick to move his on, which was not a good sign. Only time will tell how they bear up, and you are probably right to say I should wait and see. I would have to sell a couple of very nice TMs to help finance the purchase a d might very well regret it.

Thanks for the tip.

I know if is expensive and has mixed reviews but I have been considering buying one. £370 seems a lot but a TM Glock with custom frame slide and outer barrel would cost more. The trigger is heavy but so is the real firearm's trigger at about 5 lb. I know because I once lived a road and owned one. Airsoft pistol triggers are generally very light and better for skirmishing with. However I never skirmish pistols.

Nice. What slide is that? Did you keep the original outer barrel?

Thanks a lot. Very useful information.

Thanks for posting that. I did quite a bit of googling, but didn't come across that chart. It will be very useful.

I know that modern polymers can probably deal with the sort of temperatures they produce. But what if we are talking about a TM Glock with an ABS frame?

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I just wanted go check if the internals on the gen4 are disassembled in the same way and order as the gen4.

Thanks.

I haven't noticed much difference between the Nuprol in the green can and that in the red can. I know some people mistakenly refer to it as red gas, but it is just green gas with a slightly higher psi for use in colder weather. Does it really work as intended, or is it just a marketing thing? I have found it difficult to appreciate any real difference between the green can and the red. Does anybody know that the psi is supposed to be, and what the psi is of the Nuprol 2.o?

I have a cheap Chinese clone of an x300. I have never used it for skirmishing. In fact I have only ever used it as a torch for finding things like springs and other little bits that have ended up flying away and disappearing on the floor. So it has been used for a minute or two for that purpose, and I have noticed that it gets pretty hot. Is this normal, or is it only the cheap clones that behave this way? If I were skirmishing with it attached to a pistol I would only turn it on for a few seconds before making a shot. For short periods it wouldn't heat up, but what about for longer? It isn't going to burn me or anything, but most of my pistols have plastic frames, and I am wondering if it will damage them.

I know the slides between the Gen 3 and 4 are not compatible, but what about the frames? I recently installed the internals of my Glock 22 into a Guarder nylon Gen 2 frame. Now I would like to put the internals of my Glock 17 Gen 4 into the new Guarder 17 Gen 4 frame. Are there any major differences that I should be aware of? The internals of the Gen4 may be slightly different from those of the Glock 22, but I imagine the general layout or mechanics are pretty much the same. Can anyone confirm this? I know the Guarder Gen 4 frame needs a special one piece serial number tag unit that is different from other Guarder Glock ones, and has to be bought separately, but is there anything else I should know about?

Thanks very much for the response.

Am I correct in thinking that the frames and internals of these two guns are identical? Can the slides just be swapped over?

Thanks.

Thanks a lot.

I am thinking about the CNC aluminium slide kit which comes with a lightweight blowback housing, and wondering what parts I will have to change to run the TM with a metal slide. I believe I will need a stronger recoil spring, but the Guarder ones are often 150% or more and I would prefer something in the 120-140% range. Will I immediately have to replace the TM nozzle for a stronger Guarder one, or will the original last for a while. If I need the Guarder one straight away, will I be able to just transfer the TM internals into it. I know many owners put in a stronger hammer spring to avoid the problem of light strikes. How soon do I need to get one? Is light striking something that only occurs using green gas in higher temperatures? Is there anything else I need to change that I am not aware of? I would appreciate any advice members could give me.

Sorry. I muddied this with my overlong post. What I would really like to know is can a steel hammer work with stock TM alloy parts (disconnector, sear, valve knocker etc) for a while or will it chew them up very quickly. Mike Cripps once told me that the TM parts were tough enough to take pairing with a steel hammer. Is this really the case?

Thanks for the replies. I had thought about anodising, and may go that route. The Airsoft Masterpiece stuff is nice (I have a couple of their slides), but not cheap if you then add their steel sear , disconnector etc.

One of my hi capas is partially customised. All the externals are now black except for the hammer. So I have been looking for a black hammer. At first I tought I would simply buy the 4.3 black hammer since I assumed it would fit. However it was impossible to get one, even from Asia (and I include Japan). So then I wondered if a TM classic 1911 might fit. Doesn't matter since I couldn't find one of those either. In fact I am finding it increasingly difficult to find any airsoft parts I want these days. Then I came across this: ZCI Hammer set for Marui Hi Capa (highpressureairsoft.co.uk) Given the very low price I assumed the parts were made of alloy. But then I saw this from the same vendor: ZCI Steel Hi-Capa Replacement External Hammer (highpressureairsoft.co.uk) It is steel which makes me think the complete hammer set must be steel, which would make the parts even cheaper than I already thought they were. I just wondered if the parts would turn out to be cheap and cheerful or cheap and nasty. The alternative was to go for another steel hammer kit. The prices for most of these were far more than I was prepared to pay. For example anything made by Cow Cow or Dynamic Precision is extremely expensive and just the hammer alone is very pricey.. And then there is the problem of combining steel parts with pot metal ones. If you change the hammer to steel it would seem advisable to change the disconnector and other parts it interacts with to the same material. I though about just painting the silver hammer I have, but paint never lasts long and doesn't always looks good. Then I came across this set of steel parts: KUNG FU Airsoft Toy Steel Hammer Set for TM Hi-Capa 5.1 GBB Series KF51-008 | eBay Once again cheap and I imagine cheerful or nasty. In any case they would probably need some light stoning. And I would need to purchase a steel sear. Or maybe a steel hammer would work for quite a long time with the original TM disconnector, sear etc. I have no idea. My hi capa doesn't get used much - only occasionally at home - so it might last. I am very tempted to try the ZCI since it is readily available and cheap enough not to worry about if it doesn't do the job. I really would be most grateful for some advice from those who know their hi capas.

Probably not a lot, Stew. Good point, Mr Magnon. In fact I never use the slide stop to release the slide. Thanks to you both for answering my question. Buy the gun and leave it alone would appear to be the sensible choice.

I know later TM pistols no longer chew up their slides, but for those earlier models that do is it possible to glue in a small piece of metal to protect the slide from being eaten? Not everyone wants to put a full metal slide on a Marui. I ask because I am tempted to buy the little TM Glock26 but don't have a clue how long the slide will last, even on 144a gas. Do the 1911 range also suffer from this problem?

Thanks. I thought this was the case but needed reassurance.

Slower cycling? Less gas efficiency? Your experience has been very different from mine.