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Right battery's?


Wegalaxy
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So I have a valken MK3.

 

https://www.airsoftworld.net/alloy-series-mk-iii-full-metal-15-m-lock-m4-airsoft-aeg-by-valken-usa.html

 

I use a 11.1v 2000 battery.

I have read online that this airsoft is 11.1 lipo ready on a few websites.

But whilst playing with it some times the airsoft on semi will shoot in 2 round bursts after using full auto, but not all the time.

It sometimes just does not fire after I connect the battery but after I unconnect it and reconnect it, it comes back to life.

 

(had a few issues with the selector and had to send it back for fixing at the beggining)

Some people recommend I switch to 9.6v.

Is this necessary as I have spent alot on batterys but even more on my airsoft.

Is this battery correct or should I get another?

Thanks 

 

It also shoots very far and consistently.

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I suspect that people are recommending that you change to a lower voltage battery because they think that you have what is called overspin.  This is when the battery voltage is too high and causes the rifle to cycle more than once in semi.  As guns are usually run with much higher power levels in the USA, they can run on an 11.1v battery without this happening; however, with the weaker springs used in the UK, overspin is possible with 11.1v batteries.  However, this would not only happen immediately after changing from full auto to semi auto; it would happen at other times as well.

If it is only happening immediately after you change from full auto to semi auto, it is probably not overspin; it is more likely that your gun is sticking in semi for a moment, either because the selector is not returning to semi auto properly or because the cutoff is not resetting properly.  

As to why the gun will sometimes not fire after connecting the battery, but does so when you reconnect it, that may be down to the connectors.  Are you using Tamiya connectors?  If so, it could be that one of them is a bit loose and not always connecting properly.

I note that the gun has a micro switch trigger; these are not designed for the currents that pass through them in an airsoft gun and really should be protected by a decent mosfet.

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It will damage the gun over time, same as any other battery. An 11.1v will just do it faster.

 

If you want the gun to sound nicer and shoot faster, but burn out your microswitch faster, run the 11.1v.

 

If you want a little more durability, go for a 7.4v LiPo. LiPos are far superior to Nimh.

 

As Colin notes, though, those kinds of unprotected microswitches are really just bad design and are being run above their failure threshold, which makes them susceptible to early failure on any battery.

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An inline MOSFET fixes it (not one of the plug and play ones). The issue being that it needs to be wired into the switch located inside the gearbox.

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