Stripping down a G&G GC16 Warthog and replacing the Piston assembly...

[AirSniper]

I have a G&G GC16 Warthog, I need to strip it to see what broke in it.

Any "How 2" guides about?

 

Youtube has not been much help as most are american videos and they start where the thing is stripped down to parts but not the process of how to break the RIF down.

A little help, Thanks.

[Adolf Hamster]

generally the vast majority of airsoft ar derivatives follow a very similar process for pulling the gearbox:

1. pull front body pin, slide off upper (may require some fiddling of the charging handle to get it to shift)
2. remove stock and unscrew the central bolt holding it onto the gearbox, remove stock tube and free the wiring (there may be different ways of getting the wiring through depending on the particular stock)
3. remove baseplate from the grip, pull contacts from motor and take the motor out, the motor should come out relatively easily or maybe with a bit of wiggling.
4. remove screws from inside of the grip and remove the grip, freeing the wiring in the process
5. remove mag release (method will depend on the particular setup, some are screws, some you push through and unwind)
6. remove rear body pin (it may have a circlip) and tap out the smaller mid-pin
7. check for any bolt-catch related components, some guns need these removed to have enough clearance for the box, some won't have anything
8. box should now be free to be wiggled up and out of the receiver, if it's binding change the selector to safe/semi

at least as a general guideline, each step may have slight variations on what is/isn't needed.

[AirSniper]

I will have a go at breaking it down, I got a gunsmiths hammer and pin set removal tools as my external examination of the upper appears that the shroud and barrel need to be removed in addition to removal of pins to release the internals.

 

Will see how it goes, I got to make room in my flat to put up a work table for this task

 

My next question is... the parts.

 

Suggestions as I was told that the piston is the most likely part where the ratchet on the piston has been stripped. I have also been told that it may just be that the advance was not set properly and as each actuation over time has led to the catchment disengaging with the piston, so it sounds like it wants to fire but zero movement on the piston in both scenarios.
 

So will have to see what it is.
 

Thanks for your input, it is a helpful guide to the steps, will have to see how much it deviates as I am finding that the GC16 is not like others in the G&G range.

[colinjallen]

There is no need to remove the barrel and handguard; removing the front body pin enables you to remove the upper receiver with the barrel and handguard attached.  The Warthog comes apart just like any other G&G M4 with an ambidextrous selector.

Edited February 13, 2022 by colinjallen

[AirSniper]

 

This is an example of what I am talking about with tubers...

You see it complete on the bench and jump cut to (around 2:50 to 2:58)... broke down. Just not helpful if you see what I mean. 

What I want to see is that breakdown process and steps to get that step...

 

Also, I keep on asking youtube for WARTHOG CG16 and it keeps on shoving WILDHOG in my face... and its just a total **nt like it normally is. Why others get to the videos they want is baffling, so if you have a video link to someone who isn't jump cutting, then please can you share the link please.

[Adolf Hamster]

11 hours ago, AirSniper said:

I will have a go at breaking it down, I got a gunsmiths hammer and pin set removal tools as my external examination of the upper appears that the shroud and barrel need to be removed in addition to removal of pins to release the internals.

 

it shouldn't need the handguard pulled, just pop the front body pin and the whole upper receiver, barrel and handguard should slide forward off the gun as one complete assembly.

 

that is, i'm assuming the gun is stock, or functionally close enough to stock.

 

47 minutes ago, AirSniper said:

This is an example of what I am talking about with tubers...

 

to be fair, luke's a tech, it's not in his best interests to teach people to do the job they could be paying him to do.

[colinjallen]

1 hour ago, AirSniper said:

 

This is an example of what I am talking about with tubers...

You see it complete on the bench and jump cut to (around 2:50 to 2:58)... broke down. Just not helpful if you see what I mean. 

What I want to see is that breakdown process and steps to get that step...

 

Also, I keep on asking youtube for WARTHOG CG16 and it keeps on shoving WILDHOG in my face... and its just a total **nt like it normally is. Why others get to the videos they want is baffling, so if you have a video link to someone who isn't jump cutting, then please can you share the link please.

Seriously, just follow the Hamster's instructions.  You are worrying far too much about this.  It disassembles just like any other G&G M4 with an ambidextrous selector.

[RostokMcSpoons]

YT will provide you with a "next best" result if it can't find exactly what you're after.  That's usually considered 'helpful' rather than anything else!

As a video of a disassembly of a very specific airsoft gun is rather 'niche', it's not exactly surprising you're not getting (m)any hits.

 

Wildhog and warthog seem to be the same guns but one with a flash hider and other with a suppressor.  So all the interesting bits are the same. 

I'd suggest you're getting your knickers in a twist for nothing

[AirSniper]

I spoke to a gun tech who advised me about a problem with stripping down and gear boxes flying apart... So I will be taking it slowly.
 

[Adolf Hamster]

18 minutes ago, AirSniper said:

I spoke to a gun tech who advised me about a problem with stripping down and gear boxes flying apart... So I will be taking it slowly.
 

 

pretty standard for non QD boxes for the mainspring to make a bid for freedom when separating the halves.

 

a screwdriver through the hole in the spring guide (the same one the stock tube bolts into) pressed/angled down and keeping pressure on the cylinder when popping the halves will normally stop that from happening.