Gate Merf 3.2 not working correctly? F2000 semi-auto trigger not working

[RostokMcSpoons]

I've snipped a bit of scalpel blade and superglued it on.  It's flat rather than curved, and lord knows if it'll survive even a second of being hit by the cam whizzing around at ~18 rotations per second, but it's survived me filing the edges of it (and the surgical steel is pretty tough to file - it'll be the glue failing if anything)
I'll fit it at lunchtime and see what happens.

[Adolf Hamster]

even if it only works for a few shots it'll at least confirm the theory.

[ak2m4]

I've got loads of Rocket V3 COL levers that I never sold as the selector arm was a little bent, weird angle.  They're different.  You're welcome to one if I can dig them out when I'm back home later

 

[RostokMcSpoons]

Couldn't wait for lunchtime... threw it in there.  Trigger felt a little rough compared to last time, so wasn't sure if I'd messed something up, but....

 

It.... seems... to... be... working!

 

Yes I'd love an alternative COL @ak2m4 because I have no idea how long my bodge superior quality superglue engineering will last.
But the concept is definitely proven!  More material for the sector gear to cam against = bingo, bango, and indeed bongo!*

 

*(unless whatever happened to the trigger to make it feel rough has actually helped)

[Iceni]

The other less invasive and perhaps more long term solution would be to take a little metal off the AUG trigger sear. So the COL doesn't need to lift as high in the first place.

[RostokMcSpoons]

I've actually got my gun put back together for the first in a few days... because it's actually worth testing.
And guess what?   It won't fire on semi auto when the gearbox is in the gun 🤣
I'm guessing the trigger has to travel further back to make contacts within the new trigger assembly than it did before.

This feels odd / wrong because it was always a small gap between semi and full auto, and the trigger mechanism (with the long operating rod system) barely looks like a piece of precision engineering!
And now it must be tiny.

 

I've ensured the gearbox is seated fully forward within the stock, and properly held in by the screwed-in back-plate.  (I've even tried a bit of manual pressure too, to encourage it forwards the extra half millimetre or so - but that didn't do it)

So I'm asking:

• is there anyway to adjust that trigger operating rod's reach in semi-auto?
• Do I need to open up the gearbox for the 57 millionth time and adjust the contacts inside?
• Or should I physically shim the trigger so the trigger rod makes contact with it more easily? 

[Iceni]

If you still have some movement on the Auto contacts then shimming the linkage would be a suitable fix.

If the Auto contacts are already as far back as you want then you are going to have to rebend the Front contacts to engage sooner with the dolly. Or build up the dolly with solder to make it longer. If your careful you might be able to take the contacts out without opening the gearbox. Since they just slide in the front and side of the unit from the outside.

Edited February 10, 2022 by Iceni

[Adolf Hamster]

35 minutes ago, Iceni said:

The other less invasive and perhaps more long term solution would be to take a little metal off the AUG trigger sear. So the COL doesn't need to lift as high in the first place.

 

good idea that, will have to remember it.

 

35 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

I've actually got my gun put back together for the first in a few days... because it's actually worth testing.
And guess what?   It won't fire on semi auto when the gearbox is in the gun 🤣
I'm guessing the trigger has to travel further back to make contacts within the new trigger assembly than it did before.

 

ahh the next familiar problem.

 

getting it so that the semi-blocker is enough distance to set off semi auto without over-travelling and tripping the auto.

 

iirc i adjusted the rod at the trigger end- filed out the slot on the trigger and packed the rod (that was for adjusting the rod forward for less distance)

 

i swear if your next buy is an m4 with the worst possible wiring job whilst still being technically functional imma call shenanigans

[RostokMcSpoons]

48 minutes ago, Iceni said:

If you still have some movement on the Auto contacts then shimming the linkage would be a suitable fix.

If the Auto contacts are already as far back as you want then you are going to have to rebend the Front contacts to engage sooner with the dolly. Or build up the dolly with solder to make it longer. If your careful you might be able to take the contacts out without opening the gearbox. Since they just slide in the front and side of the unit from the outside.

 

Cheers, 

I've been looking at it, I've been able to flatten the auto contacts back a millimetre or two, so I think I've got some margin to play with again.
Stuck a bit of blu-tack on the trigger, covered in foil to test-shim it, it works

Now superglued a washer on the trigger...

AND IT WORKS... PROPERLY

 

Safety, Single shot, Short-pull on Full Auto gives one shot, all the way back ... rat-a-tat-a-tat 

Lovely

 

 

Thank you SO MUCH guys for sticking with me, the fact you haven't pissed off in a cloud of dust really encouraged me to keep going, and the toys didn't have to come out the pram at all 

 

(Edit:  Oh crap, the one thing I haven't done before putting every last nut and bolt back in place... check the beast actually feeds properly:  I put in that new nozzle (Shiny! Shiny!) and it's probably a different spec to the original.   It might not actually work!   Something for tomorrow's test shoot in the garden.  For the moment I'm resting on my laurels and cracking open a beer or two!)

Edited February 10, 2022 by RostokMcSpoons
Oopsie

[RostokMcSpoons]

Quick test fire this morning...
The F2000's supplied mag is feeding great, but the mag that came with my DE M906C is only feeding when I push it up into the mag well and hold it there (it's clicked in place but there's still further movement available). 

Is there a way of adjusting the location of the mag within the gun? 

Is it just a case of packing the mag well to encourage it to stay in a good place, or is there anything I can do to the mag catch?

 

FPS is down, I wound the spring guide's Quick FPS change screw all the way out, I'll wind it all the way in, see how that does, as 200fps with 0.28's (with some hop) is, I think, a long way from the 345-355fps (with 0.20s, hopped) that I was getting.  Maybe it doesn't like the new nozzle, even though it seemed to fit the cylinder head very nicely.  Maybe it's too short and not sealing against the bucking properly?

[Adolf Hamster]

3 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

Quick test fire this morning...
The F2000's supplied mag is feeding great, but the mag that came with my DE M906C is only feeding when I push it up into the mag well and hold it there (it's clicked in place but there's still further movement available). 

Is there a way of adjusting the location of the mag within the gun? 

Is it just a case of packing the mag well to encourage it to stay in a good place, or is there anything I can do to the mag catch?

 

mag compatibility can be just one of those things, sounds like the DE mag is just set slightly lower than the cyma.

 

if it works the other way round (ie cyma works in the DE) then tbh the best solution would be using cyma mags.

 

5 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

FPS is down, I wound the spring guide's Quick FPS change screw all the way out, I'll wind it all the way in, see how that does, as 200fps with 0.28's (with some hop) is, I think, a long way from the 345-355fps (with 0.20s, hopped) that I was getting.  Maybe it doesn't like the new nozzle, even though it seemed to fit the cylinder head very nicely.  Maybe it's too short and not sealing against the bucking properly?

 

one thing to think about is the potential for the adjustment to back off in-game.

 

the g&g is a different system but the one thing i found happened far too often is it'd back out during a game, you'd start with a nice solid figure and end the day barely spitting rounds.

 

the fps consistency should show if it's an air leak, a consistent low fps would suggest it's just spring tension but a wider range of values would lean towards a leak.

[RostokMcSpoons]

Yeah, looks like it might a small, but consistent air leak
I've wound the spring in all the way, I'm up to 255-265fps with the 0.28's, but that means the the FPS is varying by +-5fps (though it is mostly on the 260fps mark)
So around the equivalent of 300fps with 0.20's.   

By comparison my DE is shooting at 288fps, +-2fps, and that was at a slightly lower FPS than the F2000 before the latest bit of monkeying around.

 

I've tried my other 'Adventure Line' mags (that I got when I bought my CA AR15 all those years ago).  They feed fine in the F2000 as well, so it's just the DE mag it doesn't like.
Which is amusing and appropriate as the DE does not like the F2000 mag!   Kind of a shame, I like the F2000 mag, it's got a key winder hole in the side, and using the key is much nicer and quicker than using the winder wheel on the bottom of the mag.  And it's longer for a 400rnd capacity.  I'd buy a bunch of them if they worked in the DE.

 

Mid-edit edit:

Well I wrote all that out, and then I thought "I wonder how much hop there is at the moment".  Answer - lots. I wound it all the way off and the FPS jumped to 292-299fps.  (Mostly fairly consistent at the lower end of that range at 293, but with the occasional jump to 299).  So it's still a bit inconsistent, but it's back up to what I expected, equivalent to ~350fps with 0.20's.   With a bit of hop applied and a cold day I should be nicely under the limit.   And on a warm day I can wind the spring out too if needed.

 

[Adolf Hamster]

ahh yes, the hop'll do that

 

can't really help much on the mag front it's been years since i've messed around with m4 mags, now if it were an ak that'd be easy

 

that fps variation could be better, but at least it's playable.

 

have you an o-ring/spring pushing the hop to the gb? iirc you were querying that to also tighten the upper/lower fit with the body pin?

[RostokMcSpoons]

36 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

ahh yes, the hop'll do that

can't really help much on the mag front it's been years since i've messed around with m4 mags, now if it were an ak that'd be easy

that fps variation could be better, but at least it's playable.

 

have you an o-ring/spring pushing the hop to the gb? iirc you were querying that to also tighten the upper/lower fit with the body pin?

 

Yup, playable.  Looking forward to giving it its first proper outing on Sunday!
 

Regarding the proposed o-ring fix: Everything is solid now anyway... the upper won't budge forward or back, and the body pin is now snug as a bug.  Perhaps the trigger shimming did it, or perhaps the gearbox is better seated within the stock.  Whatever it is, it's a welcome bonus

 

 

Many thanks for the trigger unit and COL that just dropped through my letterbox, you're a top chap and no mistake guv'nor 👍

 

[Adolf Hamster]

32 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

 

Yup, playable.  Looking forward to giving it its first proper outing on Sunday!
 

Regarding the proposed o-ring fix: Everything is solid now anyway... the upper won't budge forward or back, and the body pin is now snug as a bug.  Perhaps the trigger shimming did it, or perhaps the gearbox is better seated within the stock.  Whatever it is, it's a welcome bonus

 

As long as the hop is sitting tight to the box that rules out that as an issue.

 

33 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

Many thanks for the trigger unit and COL that just dropped through my letterbox, you're a top chap and no mistake guv'nor 

 

Np man, might as well have my financial insensibility of fitting titans come to some good

 

Hopefully if the glue doesnt hold there'll be a col to be a bit more long term.

[RostokMcSpoons]

Just gave it a few long bursts in the garden, all feeling good at the moment. 
Obviously my main hope is the hop unit / bucking / nub are going to do a better job at distance than the original unit.  I won't be absolutely sure until Sunday.