Hi Power Mk3

[heroshark]

sounds like the ct25 hop. I ripped mine out cut a proper window and made a flat hop in the ct25.

 

[EDcase]

56 minutes ago, heroshark said:

sounds like the ct25 hop. I ripped mine out cut a proper window and made a flat hop in the ct25.

 

Would like to know more about that if you can explain how you did it...

 

Here's my first attempt at doing a review: 

 

 

[heroshark]

Ah yes it's the same. Terrible design gives such inconsistent spin it's unbelievable. I understand it in the ct25 with the space. Suppose it's kinda tight. Took a small hand file to the barrel. Widening and lengthening into a larger square window. Then made a hop patch to fit the window. It halved the grouping size. 

[EDcase]

OK, so not adjustable then?

I guess you have to modify the hop patch until you get the right amount of hop and then its set for good?

[heroshark]

Still adjustable. I can't remember if I did it in my CT but I've used a piece of tin can to back it before now on other guns I've Modded hops in. So it's not just the screw against the rubber.

[EDcase]

I think I understand.  Of course a few pics would help 😉

 

I put a very thin layer of superglue on top of the micro-nub to stiffen the top and make the pressure more even but its so small that its still quite useless

[heroshark]

Not pulling it apart in case it doesn't go back right, sorry.

[Cyberlawyer]

Just one note on the review, the outer barrel is removable. There is a grove in the top of what would be the chamber that allows it to pass over the feeder under the nozzle. You just need to line it up properly (a little pressure on the nozzle may also be needed).

[EDcase]

51 minutes ago, heroshark said:

Not pulling it apart in case it doesn't go back right, sorry.

I perfectly understand 😁

 

 

29 minutes ago, Cyberlawyer said:

Just one note on the review, the outer barrel is removable. There is a grove in the top of what would be the chamber that allows it to pass over the feeder under the nozzle. You just need to line it up properly (a little pressure on the nozzle may also be needed).

Ah thanks, I did see that but it wouldn't go through for me.  Maybe a bit tight

[Cyberlawyer]

Ok so after reading some of the comments and having a closer look at the parts laid out in front of me I think I have a plan for an upgraded hop solution.

 

Basically I plan to buy a new barrel (probably a crazy jet) that is at least 30 mm longer than the current stock barrel. I’ll cut it to length and then modify it fit it using the existing fixing. I can then cut a proper hop window in it and glue a bit of hop rubber into the space (basically an R hop), but I might actually use the bit of a ML with the contact patch as I don’t think the tiny brass set screw offers enough travel for a true R-hop to work. The other option being drilling out the hole for the hop adjuster to use a longer set screw, but I’d like to avoid this so I can change it back to stock. I can then glue a 5mm (Ish) square cut from a tin can to the top of the hop to spread the pressure from the brass screw evenly.

 

if it works it will be a big improvement, will be totally reversible and will only cost the price of a barrel and hop rubber. If it doesn’t then I’ll only have wasted £20 ish. I won’t be able to get round to it for a week or two, but I’ll try and take some photos when I do and report back.

 

 

[EDcase]

Sounds good.

I'd like to get a spare hop unit so I can try to modify the hop adjustment too.

[heroshark]

Why go with a longer barrel and cut?What's to stop you fitting a barrel the correct length and using the window that's already there?

[Cyberlawyer]

53 minutes ago, heroshark said:

 

Why go with a longer barrel and cut?What's to stop you fitting a barrel the correct length and using the window that's already there?

 

Two reasons:

 

1. I will need to get the barrel to attach to the current fitting points. From memory there is a grove on the underside of the VSR barrel that stops the hop rubber from rotating that is just where a grub screw needs to tighten up.

 

2. In order for the feed mechanism to work there is a rubber breach seal (looks like the front half of a VSR hop rubber before the barrel starts) that sits in its its own retaining loop that buts up to the barrel. For this to work it will need a solid ring of barrel to seal against so it will need an AEG style hop window rather than a VSR style cut out.

 

I guess I could try an AEG barrel, and cut and recrown the muzzle end, but I can see a lot them have a groove in the bottom as well so not sure it would be any better. They also seem seem to be more expensive than a long VSR pistol barrel.

[heroshark]

Try a standard AEG barrel. The groove should actually help locate the retaining screw and barrel orientation. Could even add a divet for the screw to sit. Cutting the barrel flat and making a hop window are the hardest part if it's ready done you are a good way there.

[Cyberlawyer]

I think I am going to try a test run with an old WE GBBR barrel I have sitting in my parts bin. It’s pretty long (370mm from memory) so I should get several tries out of it
 

I am fortunate enough to have access to a milling machine so actually cutting the hop window is probably the easiest part of the operation. A couple of passes at right angles to the barrel at the correct depth should do it.  I’m more concerned with cutting and fixing the hop rubber as I can see no way of doing it other than by hand with a razor blade a good eye and a very steady hand. I also don’t have any spares kicking around so will need to order a couple specifically for this purpose.

[heroshark]

1 hour ago, Cyberlawyer said:

I think I am going to try a test run with an old WE GBBR barrel I have sitting in my parts bin. It’s pretty long (370mm from memory) so I should get several tries out of it
 

I am fortunate enough to have access to a milling machine so actually cutting the hop window is probably the easiest part of the operation. A couple of passes at right angles to the barrel at the correct depth should do it.  I’m more concerned with cutting and fixing the hop rubber as I can see no way of doing it other than by hand with a razor blade a good eye and a very steady hand. I also don’t have any spares kicking around so will need to order a couple specifically for this purpose.

Well set then ☺️.

[Nick G]

Mine has arrived, looks good. As soon as the weather improves a bit I'll get it outside to test.

 

 

[heroshark]

Forgot to say surgu may be a good option. I often cut mine out other hops though.

[Cyberlawyer]

I just read a post on Sugru R-hops and thought it looked like a good thing to try first particularly as I have some at home already.

[EDcase]

18 hours ago, Cyberlawyer said:

I just read a post on Sugru R-hops and thought it looked like a good thing to try first particularly as I have some at home already.

Keep us updated with the results 👍

 

I improved mine by adding a thin layer of superglue on top of the nub rubber piece which evens out the pressure and it now shoots 0.25 quite nicely.

[k.a]

Iam aching to buy one despite it's shortcomings but want trades. Is it worth buying one with trades from HK which I really don't want to do or buying one from bespoke and getting trades done. Anyone knows what it costs to get trades done ? and do I take it to engravers like jewllers etc or CNC shop ?, never have them done before. 

[EDcase]

1 hour ago, k.a said:

Iam aching to buy one despite it's shortcomings but want trades. Is it worth buying one with trades from HK which I really don't want to do or buying one from bespoke and getting trades done. Anyone knows what it costs to get trades done ? and do I take it to engravers like jewllers etc or CNC shop ?, never have them done before. 

I think its worth getting a local engraver to do it.  Make sure they have reference images because they don't have a clue what it should look like.  Check the font they will use.

I'm happy with mine which cost £20 but I know the font is a bit wrong and its not very deep.

 

I took the slide to show and ask if they could do it.  Unfortunately mine was done with a diamond tip etching method so not very deep.  Ask if they actually engrave it.

https://airsoft-forums.uk/topic/3820-gun-picture-thread/?do=findComment&comment=410801

 

[k.a]

Looks nice mate with the wear and trades. Will definitely take along refernce pics etc and speak to local trophy engravers. Another thing I want to investigate is if they can be CNC engraved. Went a bit OTT when the WE Colt junior came out and bought three with different trades from KY airsoft,  they are cnc'd and are nice, sharp and deep.

[EDcase]

Yes, proper CNC would be best.  I think they use a laser engraver for that.  Will be interesting to hear what your local place can do.

[Nick G]

Mine hops .25s out of the box, not made any adjustments yet. Very consistant 285 fps +/- 2 over 10 shots. Expect that will go up as everything settles and that was in a cold garage so quite a low temp.