Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
uniweekendwarrior

Li-po to tamiya?

This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and probably forgotten) thread.

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

Quick question I've been looking at getting a new rifle and it comes as standard with a lipo battery connection. I was wondering if I could simply get a lipo to tamiya adapter? The rifle in question is the g&g warthog.

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes

Awesome thanks :)

 

Does the voltage of the tamiya matter as I read on another thread that the lower volts didn't even move the gears of a g&g rifle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

11.1v lipo if possible

Or

A good 9.6v nimah

 

If you buy from component shop co UK they got a good lipo that fits in the GOS v3 stock if it is same as SRXL FFR guns

 

Or you need male small tamiya to male deans

 

Think that is right but ask/check

 

Stock guns should have a female small tamiya connector on them

Deans batteries will be female

So you should need male small tamiya to male deans/T plug thingy dooberry

 

Sounds right but I might still have it ar$e about face

Connectors follow their own rules

 

Large tamiya have round black negative plugs

Small tamiya have red round positive plugs

 

Tamiya on batteries are male coz they are shielded

Deans on batteries are female as male deans are unshielded and very exposed - a male deans on a lipo battery is asking for a short

And a lipo short packs a heck of a punch spark

 

Run a search dooberry in here for:

 

Predator or SRXL or ETU*

(* is needed for a 3 char search on here)

Somewhere we went over this and componentshop did a good lipo for ETU guns

 

Or search Google I'd link it but gotta dash out for a while but its somewhere about

Hence a very very short initial reply:

 

Yes

 

Gotta be one if my shortest unless I simply said " No "

:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

11.1v lipo if possible

Or

A good 9.6v nimah

 

If you buy from component shop co UK they got a good lipo that fits in the GOS v3 stock if it is same as SRXL FFR guns

 

Or you need male small tamiya to male deans

 

Think that is right but ask/check

 

Stock guns should have a female small tamiya connector on them

Deans batteries will be female

So you should need male small tamiya to male deans/T plug thingy dooberry

 

Sounds right but I might still have it ar$e about face

Connectors follow their own rules

 

Large tamiya have round black negative plugs

Small tamiya have red round positive plugs

 

Tamiya on batteries are male coz they are shielded

Deans on batteries are female as male deans are unshielded and very exposed - a male deans on a lipo battery is asking for a short

And a lipo short packs a heck of a punch spark

Ok great thanks again for the advice buddy :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

 

The G&G guns that all feature the ETU (the Electronic Trigger Unit (three round burst thingy etc)) should use 11.1v LiPo, they have been designed with 11.1v LiPos in mind and have an undervoltage protection system built in that detects if the voltage is too low on the battery and so wont fire at all. If you have 11.1v LiPos then use those otherwise if you use 9.6v NiMh you might find you might shoot a couple hundred rounds before the gun does'nt fire at all and you will see a little red LED flashing on the ETU board in the buffer tube as the ETU cannot distinguish between 9.6v NiMh and 11.1v LiPos, it just assumes you are using an 11.1v LiPo and when the 9.6v NiMh battery drops a little too low it thinks the battery is too low a voltage and the undervolt protection system cuts in.

 

As for connectors, i dont get by what you mean LiPo connectors? The two main connectors used in the world of Airsoft is Mini Tamiya and Deans:

These are Mini Tamiya

5-Pairs-16AWG-Silica-Gel-Cable-L100mm-wi

And these are Deans

WPT-0016_01.jpg

 

Overall I would recommend you buy yourself a packet of male and female deans connectors, a soldering iron and switch wholly over to the Deans connectors as they are much better as they had less electrical resistance and IMO hold connection better than Mini Tamiya.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

 

The G&G guns that all feature the ETU (the Electronic Trigger Unit (three round burst thingy etc)) should use 11.1v LiPo, they have been designed with 11.1v LiPos in mind and have an undervoltage protection system built in that detects if the voltage is too low on the battery and so wont fire at all. If you have 11.1v LiPos then use those otherwise if you use 9.6v NiMh you might find you might shoot a couple hundred rounds before the gun does'nt fire at all and you will see a little red LED flashing on the ETU board in the buffer tube as the ETU cannot distinguish between 9.6v NiMh and 11.1v LiPos, it just assumes you are using an 11.1v LiPo and when the 9.6v NiMh battery drops a little too low it thinks the battery is too low a voltage and the undervolt protection system cuts in.

 

As for connectors, i dont get by what you mean LiPo connectors? The two main connectors used in the world of Airsoft is Mini Tamiya and Deans:

These are Mini Tamiya

5-Pairs-16AWG-Silica-Gel-Cable-L100mm-wi

And these are Deans

WPT-0016_01.jpg

 

Overall I would recommend you buy yourself a packet of male and female deans connectors, a soldering iron and switch wholly over to the Deans connectors as they are much better as they had less electrical resistance and IMO hold connection better than Mini Tamiya.

 

 

Always buy good quality Deans connectors though. The cheap ones have been widely shown to be a poorer connection than a half decent Tamiya connector.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish people would stop going on about the designed for 11.1v crap. Because it is exactly that, crap. If you had bothered to look it up direct from G&G themselves, you would discover that in fact there is no such claim ever made by them.

 

ETU equipped gun - http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/GC16_Wildthog9.php?lang=en

Same gun's product manual - http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf

 

In fact, for every other gun excluding the self imploding AK's which are no longer obtainable, the recommendation is a 9.6v 1600mAh NiMh, for which the closest equivalent LiPo is a 7.4v.

 

The misinformation about 11.1v LiPo's stems out of the US market where the guns are sold with an older motor version with less torque and come stock with M120 springs, without the extra voltage the crappy motors can't pull the spring, and thus can't cycle. We don't have that issue as we don't use guns at 390-410 fps as standard, and we also get a (slightly) stronger motor. I've got 4 of the things now, never used anything apart from 7.4v's in them for 8 months, never had any issues with the guns not working. Bought from 3 different retailers and independently different batches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish people would stop going on about the designed for 11.1v crap. Because it is exactly that, crap. If you had bothered to look it up direct from G&G themselves, you would discover that in fact there is no such claim ever made by them.

 

ETU equipped gun - http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/GC16_Wildthog9.php?lang=en

Same gun's product manual - http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf

 

In fact, for every other gun excluding the self imploding AK's which are no longer obtainable, the recommendation is a 9.6v 1600mAh NiMh, for which the closest equivalent LiPo is a 7.4v.

 

The misinformation about 11.1v LiPo's stems out of the US market where the guns are sold with an older motor version with less torque and come stock with M120 springs, without the extra voltage the crappy motors can't pull the spring, and thus can't cycle. We don't have that issue as we don't use guns at 390-410 fps as standard, and we also get a (slightly) stronger motor. I've got 4 of the things now, never used anything apart from 7.4v's in them for 8 months, never had any issues with the guns not working. Bought from 3 different retailers and independently different batches.

 

While i don't disagree with your comment i still stand by the fact that 11.1v LiPos should be used with these guns, it possible that in the past few months G&G has changed or upgraded with ETU without mentioning it in the Manuals and its likely that they have not upgraded the manuals since putting them online. Also G&G also has a funny way of mincing their words.

 

I distinctly remember a friend getting the G&G GC16 Predator AEG, whilst all online publication of this gun made no mention that you had to use an 11.1v LiPo when he actually got the gun about 2 months ago there was a memorandum from G&G attached to the manual saying "YOU MUST USE 11.1v LiPos".

 

Furthermore, looking on the online Manuals for G&G Guns it appears that they have made a very subtle change in the manuals, i refer you to the original GC16 Predator:

http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/GC16_PREDATOR.pdf

and the newer GC16 Predator in Battle Ship Grey:

http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16%20PREDATOR_G.pdf

 

See the difference in the manual yet? its on page 3 "Installing the battery" for both manuals, for the GC16 Predator it states in small print in blue "Recommended 2-piece Li-Po (G-11-082) or Ni-Mh (G-11-056) battery. Do not use batteries with discharge rate above 25C. in case of installing 3-piece batteries, carefully arrange wires to avoid damage to the connectors or wires." This is for the same GC16 Predator my friend got with the memorandum saying "YOU MUST USE 11.1V LIPOS".

 

For the GC16 Predator in Battleship Grey (a newer AEG, its the same in a different colour) the same small print (but this time in red) states, "Recommended 3-piece Li-Po (G-11-041). Do not use batteries with discharge rate above 25C. In case of installing 3-piece batteries, carefully arrange wires to avoid damage to the connectors or wires.

At no point does it mention NiMh batteries and LiPos only go in steps of 3.7v in the airsofting world.

 

Also i care to point out that the manual you quoted:

http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf

Has the same warning in small print in red about using only 3 piece LiPos

 

I can understand the confusion, English is not G&Gs first language and whilst i am not at all imploring they don't know English (in fact the English in their manuals is amongst the best), fact is its still not their first. Whilst the manual says "Recommended" what it really means is "Must" they just haven't put it into good English and they do fall foul of this sometimes, you will see this if you ever follow them on Facebook and come of their comments is not always in good English.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish people would stop going on about the designed for 11.1v crap. Because it is exactly that, crap. If you had bothered to look it up direct from G&G themselves, you would discover that in fact there is no such claim ever made by them.

 

ETU equipped gun - http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/GC16_Wildthog9.php?lang=en

Same gun's product manual - http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf

 

In fact, for every other gun excluding the self imploding AK's which are no longer obtainable, the recommendation is a 9.6v 1600mAh NiMh, for which the closest equivalent LiPo is a 7.4v.

 

The misinformation about 11.1v LiPo's stems out of the US market where the guns are sold with an older motor version with less torque and come stock with M120 springs, without the extra voltage the crappy motors can't pull the spring, and thus can't cycle. We don't have that issue as we don't use guns at 390-410 fps as standard, and we also get a (slightly) stronger motor. I've got 4 of the things now, never used anything apart from 7.4v's in them for 8 months, never had any issues with the guns not working. Bought from 3 different retailers and independently different batches.

 

 

Sorry beg to differ....

 

There is or was some issues with ETU guns

and G&G do recommend up to 11.1v lipo's 20c in there manual

 

You may be fortunate in getting your etu's to work on 7.4v no problem
but myself and others - quite a few have had issues with 7.4v & 9.6v batteries
and it seems there was an admission that some etu's were faulty
we have been over this before
some manuals like SR & FFR say 7.4v or 9.6v
others say 9.6v or 11.1v
the motors vary from the std 18k lame ferrite - blue "powerful" ferrite or orange neodym 25k
As for G&G specs - they make some of this up as they go along
and still list the FFR A2 as a 260mm barrel but it is a 205mm like the FFR 7" & SRS:
the guns' lengths are 750/740mm so dunno the FFR A2 has a 260 not 205 barrel in there
it is a typo obviously but still not corrected by G&G or Z1 and other retailers
think Gunfire reported the correct barrel length but anyway it is a typo
BUT still to demonstrates that G&G have changed/altered their specs & battery recommendations
Not just on here but others have issues with picky ETU's not working as they should
You may be rather more fortunate than others is all I can say
The ETU is a great idea - really is I have said that
BUT the 3rnd burst unit is poorly designed & poorly built
G&G mosfets are not the most robust ones out there and it is a reasonably large unit than it needs to be tbh even when it does work
Somebody could perhaps develop a set-reset latching circuit I guess and that could trigger a normal 3034 using the etu unit but the mosfet 3rnd is crap
Pinouts in case anybody wants to develop this and build a basic mosfet that uses the 3 switch signals:
RED - COMMON or supply to 3 signals
BLACK - TRIGGER SWITCH
RED - CUT OFF SWITCH
BLACK - AUTO SELECT SWITCH
you would probably need to take a 2 transistor circuit & add and additional transistor to latch it on so to speak
I tried something similar a while back but was using a pnp & npn set/reset circuit - was nearly there but had a problem getting confused in dead zone and was only using 2 switches - trigger & col
The ETU has a 3rd switch to indicate full auto selected - so this 3rd transistor would ignore the COL until the trigger is killed then park the gun once the COL is triggered on last cycle so to speak
not rocket science in theory - using transistors would mean a wider range of voltage without need for voltage regulators for other IC components - final output triggers a "normal" mosfet
no 3rnd burst but electronic triggering ensuring gun always completes the cycle and no dead zone
also will work with 7.4v or 12v+ without any hicups on a mild to high stress build
ah well maybe somebody might take this further one day & a cheap unit knocked up - use etu but dump the 3rnd board
What we are trying to do is ensure the OP has a gun that works and does not experience the possible risk of hassle that others have experienced
A lot of Retailers now state use a 9.6v at least - not a 7.4v
As I said if your guns are running fine on 7.4v then you must be more fortunate than other etu owners like this too:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

While i don't disagree with your comment i still stand by the fact that 11.1v LiPos should be used with these guns, it possible that in the past few months G&G has changed or upgraded with ETU without mentioning it in the Manuals and its likely that they have not upgraded the manuals since putting them online. Also G&G also has a funny way of mincing their words.

 

I distinctly remember a friend getting the G&G GC16 Predator AEG, whilst all online publication of this gun made no mention that you had to use an 11.1v LiPo when he actually got the gun about 2 months ago there was a memorandum from G&G attached to the manual saying "YOU MUST USE 11.1v LiPos".

 

Furthermore, looking on the online Manuals for G&G Guns it appears that they have made a very subtle change in the manuals, i refer you to the original GC16 Predator:

http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/GC16_PREDATOR.pdf

and the newer GC16 Predator in Battle Ship Grey:

http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16%20PREDATOR_G.pdf

 

See the difference in the manual yet? its on page 3 "Installing the battery" for both manuals, for the GC16 Predator it states in small print in blue "Recommended 2-piece Li-Po (G-11-082) or Ni-Mh (G-11-056) battery. Do not use batteries with discharge rate above 25C. in case of installing 3-piece batteries, carefully arrange wires to avoid damage to the connectors or wires." This is for the same GC16 Predator my friend got with the memorandum saying "YOU MUST USE 11.1V LIPOS".

 

For the GC16 Predator in Battleship Grey (a newer AEG, its the same in a different colour) the same small print (but this time in red) states, "Recommended 3-piece Li-Po (G-11-041). Do not use batteries with discharge rate above 25C. In case of installing 3-piece batteries, carefully arrange wires to avoid damage to the connectors or wires.

At no point does it mention NiMh batteries and LiPos only go in steps of 3.7v in the airsofting world.

 

Also i care to point out that the manual you quoted:

http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf

Has the same warning in small print in red about using only 3 piece LiPos

 

I can understand the confusion, English is not G&Gs first language and whilst i am not at all imploring they don't know English (in fact the English in their manuals is amongst the best), fact is its still not their first. Whilst the manual says "Recommended" what it really means is "Must" they just haven't put it into good English and they do fall foul of this sometimes, you will see this if you ever follow them on Facebook and come of their comments is not always in good English.

 

You are indeed correct, the newer manuals do mention 3 piece LiPo's, however, the manuals are produced by English C2 Level linguists from 2014 onwards. "Recommended" is an advisory statement, not an absolute. So you can use 11.1v, it is not compulsory however, there is definitely nothing about "YOU MUST USE 11.1v LiPos" or about "using only 3 piece LiPos". A C2 level linguist is fully capable of knowing the distinction between the two levels of emphasis.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish people would stop going on about the designed for 11.1v crap. Because it is exactly that, crap. If you had bothered to look it up direct from G&G themselves, you would discover that in fact there is no such claim ever made by them.

 

ETU equipped gun - http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/GC16_Wildthog9.php?lang=en

Same gun's product manual - http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf

 

In fact, for every other gun excluding the self imploding AK's which are no longer obtainable, the recommendation is a 9.6v 1600mAh NiMh, for which the closest equivalent LiPo is a 7.4v.

 

The misinformation about 11.1v LiPo's stems out of the US market where the guns are sold with an older motor version with less torque and come stock with M120 springs, without the extra voltage the crappy motors can't pull the spring, and thus can't cycle. We don't have that issue as we don't use guns at 390-410 fps as standard, and we also get a (slightly) stronger motor. I've got 4 of the things now, never used anything apart from 7.4v's in them for 8 months, never had any issues with the guns not working. Bought from 3 different retailers and independently different batches.

Always good to get advice from someone who's owned one :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been looking around more and if you go on

 

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/g-g-gc16-warthog-12-inch-combat-machine-black.htm#.V72a1knTXqA

 

It recommends an 8.4 or 9.6v Ni-mh crane battery.

 

 

However on http://www.surplusstore.co.uk/g-g-gc16-warthog-7.html

 

It says must use a 11v lipo

 

Just to add fuel on the fire of this thread :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

 

The G&G guns that all feature the ETU (the Electronic Trigger Unit (three round burst thingy etc)) should use 11.1v LiPo, they have been designed with 11.1v LiPos in mind and have an undervoltage protection system built in that detects if the voltage is too low on the battery and so wont fire at all. If you have 11.1v LiPos then use those otherwise if you use 9.6v NiMh you might find you might shoot a couple hundred rounds before the gun does'nt fire at all and you will see a little red LED flashing on the ETU board in the buffer tube as the ETU cannot distinguish between 9.6v NiMh and 11.1v LiPos, it just assumes you are using an 11.1v LiPo and when the 9.6v NiMh battery drops a little too low it thinks the battery is too low a voltage and the undervolt protection system cuts in.

 

As for connectors, i dont get by what you mean LiPo connectors? The two main connectors used in the world of Airsoft is Mini Tamiya and Deans:

These are Mini Tamiya

5-Pairs-16AWG-Silica-Gel-Cable-L100mm-wi

And these are Deans

WPT-0016_01.jpg

 

Overall I would recommend you buy yourself a packet of male and female deans connectors, a soldering iron and switch wholly over to the Deans connectors as they are much better as they had less electrical resistance and IMO hold connection better than Mini Tamiya.

Yea by lipo connection I meant deans as thats what I thought, at the time, all LiPo's where. I've only used Ni-mh batteries with mini tamiya so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

P0rg1Ls.png

 

 

There we go, direct from the horse's mouth. If your G&G gun won't run on a 7.4v LiPo, it wasn't intended to be sold on the UK Market.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and probably forgotten) thread.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...