Mos' TM VSR upgrade logs

[Mos]

(Reading this 9 months from when this thread started, this is probably useful for anyone wanting to upgrade their VSR, well it's long, but that's because I took one for the team, and did all the noob questions and stuff so you don't have to, don't get me wrong, I've learnt a lot, from knowing nothing, to knowing slightly more than nothing - read this before asking common questions)

 

 

Hey guys, this is my VSR upgrade log, where I say what I did to upgrade my sniper. And what products I used etc. if you have any questions/advice please note them below

 

LOG 1:

 

So I bought a TM VSR-10 pro version. As was told it's the best one out there to upgrade, and the internals are fairly decent, hop bucking in particular.

 

As it came, we already knew it wouldn't be as good as it could be with the FPS it had. Due to Japanese laws, where it's made, there's an FPS limit of 300 or so. For game days I'd want to be shooting at around 450 FPS.

 

So I needed to upgrade, first place where I thought was,right let's ramp up the FPS. I found the two best options- keeping the spring or going Mancraft SDiK, I chose the mancraft route, as it's more cool (true thought, I genuinely thought this) and I can change up the FPS easily. Plus I didn't have to fiddle with springs and guides and all that. Plus didn't have to mess with a 90 degree trigger. To handle the higher force spring. Which costs a lot of money.

 

So the mancraft items arrived, the SDiK, the regulator (with CO2 adapter, as I am going to use some carbon dioxide) and spare bits and bobs, including a tournament lock.

 

Fitting the mancraft SDiK was a tricky little thing, as we disassembled the gun, we got to the cylinder in which the SDiK goes into, only to realize that the stock cylinder is locked, and the cylinder head won't come off. We tried using tweezers, and yanking and pulling, but no luck. Until we found out why, there is a small little nugget which holds the cylinder in, the only way to get the cylinder head off is to drill it out. Therefore we did. And it came off. I believe that the new versions of the TM VSR's come with this lock in nugget. And the older ones don't. Oh well..

 

We fitted the mancraft SDiK.

 

We are now in need of some gas, a rail, and a scope, and some more weighted BBs.

 

link to where I talk and question about barrel spacers:

https://airsoft-forums.uk/index.php?/topic/34571-barrel-spacers/#comment-267209

 

[proffrink]

Pics!

 

Also, told you the cylinder head was crimped and pinned, heh. At least you don't need that cylinder head anyway if you did end up scratching it at all with the pliers.

 

Here's your CO₂ by the way: http://www.jsramsbottom.com/products/co2-co2-cartridges-12-gram-co2/jsrco250-jsr-12gram-airgun-co2-cartridge-%5B50-pack%5D.html - cheap, clean bulb necks (so decent seal) and unlubed from what I could tell from using them.

 

Action Army do a good VSR rail (stocked at Airsoft World) but watch for the screws as mine were slightly too long and needed cutting with a Dremel (you could probably just use a file though).

 

Are you going to try and fit the regulator into the stock? Did you have any trouble with routing the line?

[Mos]

Pics!

 

Also, told you the cylinder head was crimped and pinned, heh. At least you don't need that cylinder head anyway if you did end up scratching it at all with the pliers.

 

Here's your CO₂ by the way: .html]http://www.jsramsbottom.com/products/co2-co2-cartridges-12-gram-co2/jsrco250-jsr-12gram-airgun-co2-cartridge-[50-pack].html - cheap, clean bulb necks (so decent seal) and unlubed from what I could tell from using them.

 

Action Army do a good VSR rail (stocked at Airsoft World) but watch for the screws as mine were slightly too long and needed cutting with a Dremel (you could probably just use a file though).

 

Are you going to try and fit the regulator into the stock? Did you have any trouble with routing the line?

Oh yeah, the cylinder is scratched haha. I added those CO2 bulbs to my homepage a while ago, as it was a very good deal. And the rail added that too. (Thanks to you, though, thanks for reminding)

 

For the regulator, me and my brother were thinking of getting it into the stock, and well it didn't fit, but I'm sure if we modded it it could fit. I seem to think there's a guide around here? And no probs on the routing.

 

Thanks prof, don't you have one of these type log updatey type things?

 

Thanks.

[proffrink]

Cylinder or cylinder head? Either way, neither should matter too much.

 

Yes, you need to modify the regulator slightly - I hope you asked for the spare grub screw as I said in that other thread, or it won't be possible to do. The build thread I did may be your best bet for seeing how to do it as I did put some pictures on there. Still have to update it when I can be bothered to r-hop my barrel.

 

Just occurred to me that you're using the stock trigger which isn't as tall as the 90^o ones so you should have plenty of room to manoeuvre, which makes things easier.

[Mos]

Ordered both gas and rail. Airsoft world is possibly the hardest website I've ever ordered from. Bloody hell... It's a stupid website, the ordering process is stupid!

[proffrink]

Did you buy the line I recommended for fitting the regulator into the stock?

[Mos]

Did you buy the line I recommended for fitting the regulator into the stock?

I think I sent a PM on this thank you.

 

THINKING STAGE:

 

Now I have both the gas and my rail on its way, I'm thinking of what to do. A while ago I discovered people struggling to lift 0.3g BBs and up past 40 metres. The reason for this was because the BB didn't get enough hop on it, didn't get enough back spin. Therefore it couldn't be helped by the wind in a way which gave the further distance. The solution to this was the 'biro mod'.

 

The biro mod is where you get a bic disposable pen and cut the plastic to fit in your hop arm, where the nubbing would go. The VSR does not come with a nub, and if I'm right to say, we're making a DIY nub. So the plastic will push down on the rubber and give some backspin to the BB.

 

Then I'll need to chrono my stuff, but I don't have a chrono, they're fairly expensive and I wanted to get these upgrades done.

 

At the weekend I should have all this tested, and then I'll proceed into buying 0.4g BBs, the scope and that should be that. And where the regulator will go, I believe prof knows how (thanks prof for helping me with the regulator fitting)

[Mos]

LOG 2:

 

The 50 bottles of 12g CO2 canister/bottle things arrived (only cost £12 + shipping) along with the rail.

 

So, let's test fire this thing. And we did, what you have to do is place the co2 cartridge into the co2 adapter, which connects to the regulator. But, we made a mistake, we placed the co2 cartridge into the adapter, with the pressure controller twisty thing on tight (ok, there's this little twisty thing at the end of the regulator, which controls the pressure output from the regulator down the line to the BB. Now we had the twist thing on tight, so it was tightly twisted, which meant the higher pressure output) so as the co2 cartridge was in the adapter it burst, and leaked everywhere, no problem, we have 49 cartridges left. What you have to do, is unscrew, until very loose, the pressure controller.

 

Then even so it leaked, which was just because some things weren't as tight as they could be - after tightening everything up, it was good to go

 

Now the rail, it's easy, take off the iron sight, place the rail, put the screws in, done.

 

WHAT TO DO NEXT:

 

Get a scope, do biro mod, get 0.4g BBs

[proffrink]

Remember: Regulator takes a few hundred shots to bed in. Also absolutely must put gloves in when you put a new bulb in and tighten it down quickly so the seal presses up against the neck of the bulb before the gas has much of a chance to escape

You do not have to unscrew the adjustment knob so long as you have everything hooked up or it'll just spray CO₂ out the end of the line.

Once you've let the regulator settle down you may wish to make markings on the adjustment knob (just two lines that you can line up) for your desired muzzle energies to make adjustment easier in the future. I'd recommend keeping it 3% under the crono to allow for hot weather and other variables, because it's not perfect.

[Mos]

Remember: Regulator takes a few hundred shots to bed in. Also absolutely must put gloves in when you put a new bulb in and tighten it down quickly so the seal presses up against the neck of the bulb before the gas has much of a chance to escape

You do not have to unscrew the adjustment knob so long as you have everything hooked up or it'll just spray CO₂ out the end of the line.

Once you've let the regulator settle down you may wish to make markings on the adjustment knob (just two lines that you can line up) for your desired muzzle energies to make adjust easier in the future. I'd recommend keeping it 3% under the crono to allow for hot weather and other variables.

Alright thank you. Yes, once we'd found out why it leaked and all, it was a matter of just being able to screw it up as quick as possible. Are you saying I don't even have to touch the adjustment knob? If so, all I have to tighten quickly is the CO2 adapter into the regulator?

 

And yes, I'll be sure to make some markings. Though I don't actually have a crono, so that may be a problem, I'll just have to put 100 odd shots in at the yard and then on game day crono it in, maybe turn up an hour early to do so etc.

 

Did I mention the Tournament lock fits? One obstacle, the marshals MIGHT not allow it, as it's adjustable, though I do have the lock for pre-cautions.. Just a thought.

 

Thanks once again, in specific, the leakage and the instalment of the CO2 cartridge is where I needed the most help, as I thought I was slightly doing it wrong.

[proffrink]

Why would you need to touch it if you've already set it? All it does is close off the flow to the output line; it doesn't help with stopping the leaks when switching bulbs as it has nothing to do with the seal between the bulb and adapter.

 

You absolutely need to buy a cronograph or you're pissing in the wind - you can't set your hop without it and that means you might not be able to effectively check that you've successfully aligned your scope either

 

How is the tournament lock adjustable?

[Mos]

Why would you need to touch it if you've already set it? All it does is close off the flow to the output line; it doesn't help with stopping the leaks when switching bulbs as it has nothing to do with the seal between the bulb and adapter.

 

You absolutely need to buy a cronograph or you're pissing in the wind - you can't set your hop without it and that means you might not be able to effectively check that you've successfully aligned your scope either

 

How is the tournament lock adjustable?

I don't really know why I'd adjust it... Once I've found the FPS I desire. The reason I thought you had to change it, as when placing a bulb in, I thought you had to loosen the adjustment knob before placing it in, I think I'm wrong :/

 

Yeah, I need a crono... I'll try and find one, but last time I checked they're around £50 atleast.

 

Lock isn't adjustable, my bad, meant the gun itself is now adjustable with its FPS. And knowing airsoft sites have FPS limits, or you could say joule limits wuhay *proud person here* my problem lies there..

 

Thanks

[proffrink]

Er, ok. I didn't get the bit you meant about marshals though. Just explain to them it's properly regulated like HPA and then show them you zip-tying it to the elbow where the 4mm line goes in so that it can't be removed.

[Mos]

UPDATE LOG:

 

Rail is fitted, firing perfectly, need to do the biro mod, scope arrives on Thursday, need some heavier BBs, need a chrono (ughh)

 

I'll say how the rail fits, and how the biro mod is done. When the scope arrives.

[Mos]

UPDATE LOG:

 

So the rail fits on, it does wiggle ever so slightly, but you just tighten it more than you'd expect and it doesn't wiggle.

 

Scope fits on the rail. Nice fit. Fired some BBs at a chair and can see clearly, and fired straight at the chair. Bare in mind this cheap was 10 metres away.

 

The 0.4g Devil BBs have arrived, they're black, so that's pretty cool. I think are from ASG.

 

I will need to do the biro mod, and then test fire. Then, tweak the hop up.

 

Then a lil camo type wrap thing, either some paint or some camo material wrap stuff.

[Mos]

Anyone know a video of the biro mod. I know what to do, it's just things are always easier with a video.

[Monty]

Anyone know a video of the biro mod. I know what to do, it's just things are always easier with a video.

 

It's literally just replacing the nub, right?

[proffrink]

I've never known someone to have such complications with replacing the nub on a VSR.

 

Mos, get a ballpoint pen. Pull the top off (some unscrew) where the nib is and you'll be able to remove the ink reservoir. Cut a bit off the top of the ink reservoir where there's no ink and then just file down the ends until it's the correct length. The reason you probably can't find videos is because this 'aint rocket surgery.

[Mos]

I've never known someone to have such complications with replacing the nub on a VSR.

 

Mos, get a ballpoint pen. Pull the top off (some unscrew) where the nib is and you'll be able to remove the ink reservoir. Cut a bit off the top of the ink reservoir where there's no ink and then just file down the ends until it's the correct length. The reason you probably can't find videos is because this 'aint rocket surgery.

lol

 

I'm honestly just fuzzled as of how I didn't understand this. "Video instructions please" ahaha, what a mug I am.

Yeah thanks, I understand now lol. Where I read wasn't clear (probs was, but this is me doing the reading) it said get the plastic bit inside which holds the ink, ok I understand right now, then proceed to take the top bit off, and yes the top bit is the same as the rest of it. Though my small brain thought there was more parts to the complicated design of a pen..

 

ahaha, thank you.

[Mos]

I have finally decided I can be bothered to take a picture *yay*

 

The regulator is zip tied on, fairly neatly. We drilled a hole in the stock and run the line in there through the gun to its necessary parts. Or I should say, it's necessary part.

 

Biro mod is complete. Unsure what to do now, will have a think, apart from shooting it lol.

 

 

[djben9]

proud father....at leaast it wont talk back or stomp its feet!!

 

Tudders end of month??

[Mos]

proud father....at leaast it wont talk back or stomp its feet!!

 

Tudders end of month??

Haha, I guess I'm lucky.

 

Tudders, probably, it mainly comes down to of my brother can take me. He drives down and plays airsoft too.

 

I think he will want to play. And it'll be the first day out for the sniper hopefully we can do seem sort of small meet up ahah I'll be there little 13 yo haha

[Mos]

UPDATE LOG 'whatever log we are at now':

 

0.4g BBs arrived, biro mod complete, simply putting the ink tube from a biro pen into where the two prongs of the hop arm are. This is so when the arm goes down, more contact is with the BB, meaning you should hopefully get more backspin. Though I imagine if the bit of plastic is at a slant, it will give uneven pressure to BB, this veering off one direction. (Be careful, take your time)

 

So, I have now got the gun with the FPS sorted out. And the ability to lift 0.4g BBs.

 

Got the power. Want the accuracy.

 

So, automatically, we can use 0.4G BBs to give us so much more accuracy than your 0.2g BBs.

 

So ACCURACY:

from what I know.

0.4G. BBs will definitely help

And maybe a hop unit, but the hop unit shell type thing is surely just the housing of parts inside the shell. So the arm etc.

I might actually need a new bucking, as the limit at tudders is 500. Though the limit at ravens is only 400, which is a problem itself, but less of a problem and more of a hassle.

 

Barrels cost a lot, and I think I can gain more results with other methods such as heavier BBs and hop units.

 

So what do I need for accuracy? Or what parts do I need to change/swap out for more accuracy? I have a rough idea.

 

 

If I were to play at ravens with 400 FPS limit with 0.2g BBs.

RAVENS:

I will use 0.4G BBs

Muzzle energy of about 1.49

And no other mods or parts as of yet

 

 

TUDDENHAM (500 FPS sniper limit):

0.4G BBs

Muzzle energy of 2.3

 

What will be the difference of the extra energy.

I guess I will get more range?

 

Thanks

[proffrink]

Decent bucking and a good barrel; the stock TM barrel is probably fine, but one of the Firefly or Maple Leaf (probably the 65^o or 70^o) buckings might be a good idea with the relevant nub. I'd suggest polishing it (the barrel) but that's a bit of effort.

 

And no, you won't get the same performance in a sniper rifle from not upgrading the barrel but you'll probably get really close. Especially with a TM one which is not too shabby out of the box.

 

Make sure the air seal is good around your bucking and barrel to minimise inconsistent pressure. Use PTFE tape.

 

Time for you to do some searching though. This is, after all, a VSR - there're thousands of threads out there on how to squeeze accuracy from it already. Try the sniper forums to start with.

[Mos]

Decent bucking and a good barrel; the stock TM barrel is probably fine, but one of the Firefly or Maple Leaf (probably the 65^o or 70^o) buckings might be a good idea with the relevant nub. I'd suggest polishing it but that's a bit of effort.

 

And no, you won't get the same performance in a sniper rifle from not upgrading the barrel but you'll probably get really close. Especially with a TM one which is not too shabby out of the box.

 

Make sure the air seal is good around your hop unit to minimise inconsistent pressure. Use PTFE tape.

 

Time for you to do some searching though. This is, after all, a VSR - there're thousands of threads out there on how to squeeze accuracy from it already. Try the sniper forums to start with.

Sweet. So with a bucking, one of these firefly or maple, this means the biro mod is going to be abolished? You knew how hard I found that lol

 

Don't buckings need a specific hop arm?? Type a and b? Somewhere I read that.

 

Thanks prof, I did post a pic of how I setup the regulator on the gun, seems to be removed, oh well.