Broken TM Aug, please help me figure!

[Bluegill]

Hi,

 

So my new battery for the TM Aug arrived today (a 1600MaH 8.4v Mini) and I got home, put it in and HOPED to high hell that it worked. It let off a short sharp pop like firing a shot and then went silent. I was pretty chuffed because it was the first time in about 4 years that it had made a 'proper' noise. With that, I figured that I'd been sent a dead(ish) battery that probably required a first charge. Now let me be straight, I've not got (nor can afford right now) a smart charger or even dedicated airsoft charger. Mine is just DC wall plug to a splitter with a normal clip plug and mini Tamiya clip plug. I use the large one for my big ol' M15A4 battery and that works fine. I just put it on charge for a few hours and hope for the best- generally works and has done that way for a couple of years. Maybe not the case with this new battery or am I being too hasty and need to give the new battery a good few hours before I even try it out on the TM AUG?

 

Confuzzled and a little bit annoyed that I've not solved the AUG problem as of yet

 

How do you tell if the fuse is bust? It's a stock 15A fuse...should I change it?

 

My plan is to charge the battery overnight and try in the morning. If that fails, I'll have a full battery to keep aside. Then I'll try another fuse and if that doesn't work then I'm really lost.

 

Help me get my kickass AUG into action!

 

Thanks in advance

 

Nick

 

P.S- Just asking for any advice or wise words regarding what may be the problem...

[Deva]

Just get rid of the fuse and hard wire it straight in and see if you have a goer.

[Bluegill]

Just get rid of the fuse and hard wire it straight in and see if you have a goer.

 

Thanks for the reply mate, so just remove the gearbox etc and solder a red wire between the battery port and the bit where it enters the gearbox?

[Deva]

No I wouldn't bother messing about wiring it in all the way back to the gearbox, just remove the fuse so it isn't in the circuit.

[Bluegill]

..and then solder the 2 red ends of wire together?

 

(So sorry for my naivety but I'm completely new to this. Great that I'm learning already!!!)

[JerseyRider]

No i think they just link together right?

[Rock-climby-Dave]

go to where the fuse is, see the (normally) black box

open her up and the fuse is there, pull the fuse out

cut a piece of wire about the same lenght as the fuse

solder it in to the box, connecting the ends of the wires together.

 

OR

 

open black box

remove fuse

grab ends of wires with fuse connectors

hold them together whist you apply copious amounts of electrical tape around them to hold them together

see if it works

if yes, remove tape and fuse connectors and slice the ends together to make a more permanent connection

[Bluegill]

Ah this is weird then. When I open the stock of the gun up, I get a mini Tamiya connector coming from red & black wires. About 4 inches down the red wire, there's a little clear plastic fuse holder, definitely no 'black box'. I've opened the holder to reveal the fuse. Shall I remove it and touch the 2 fuse connectors together and see if it does anything? Obviously I won't be touching metal when the battery is connected and the trigger pressed!

 

Would this suggest that the gun is modified in some way?

[Rock-climby-Dave]

ok, your black box is clear

yeah, take out the fuse and touch them together

 

also, It's only 8.4Volts with 2 amps going though ya, no worries (unless you are holding one with one hand and the other in the other hand and you have a pacemaker)

 

bit of tape to hold them together should be fine

[Bluegill]

Ahh I get it, a clear black box

 

Have just done that...

 

Nothing

[Bluegill]

Seeing as the gun didn't work, I decided to do something maybe considered quite brave for someone so new to airsoft mechanics...

 

Opened the whole thing up, took everything out, cleaned contacts, opened up gearbox...

 

What???

 

I thought well I'll have to learn how to do it at some point so I thought why not now? I'm in no hurry for the AUG at all as I have my M15A4 for skirmishing. I can use the AUG as a learning tool and re-wire everything over time as a little project.

 

Why not eh?

 

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions throughout guys, much appreciated!

 

I'll use this thread to either update or query the situation regarding the gun.

 

Ta!

 

Nick

 

P.S- I did read the pinned topic in this forum, just so you know that I wasn't being ignorant and was just being ambitious and curious!

[Rock-climby-Dave]

as long as you don't 'do a top gear' and be ambitious, but rubbish, you'll be fine.

[Bluegill]

Thanks Dave, it's not like I've done no research too. I've been studying the videos on Mechbox of the disassembly, upgrade and reassembly of the TM V3 gearbox. I'm looking forward to getting home tonight and putting it all back together.

 

What would you suggest if I put it back together, attach it to the battery and I still get no power?

[Rock-climby-Dave]

check the motor

 

take the motor and just run it outside of the gearbox, if it is placed on a desk a fully functional motor will jump when it starts up, due to the torques

if it wobbles around a bit, with no real power (still spinning) it's probablt shorted inside the motor, which can be expensive to fix (new motor)

 

failing that

 

If the gun is making a noise when the trigger is pulled it is a mechanical problem, the motor wants to pull the spring, but something is blocking it.

 

seee how it goes and get back to us if it works

[Bluegill]

Will try that Dave, thanks for your help mate. No doubt you'll be hearing from me tonight

[REMSoft]

If the worst comes to the worst, bring it down to me. I've had to do countless AUG repairs for my own AUG, and several other people's. I'm down in Kent. Repair for £10 + parts (if necessary!)

[Bluegill]

If the worst comes to the worst, bring it down to me. I've had to do countless AUG repairs for my own AUG, and several other people's. I'm down in Kent. Repair for £10 + parts (if necessary!)

 

Extremely kind of you REMsoft, thanks! I'll see how it goes with the assembly but have a funny feeling I may be in touch!

[REMSoft]

Extremely kind of you REMsoft, thanks! I'll see how it goes with the assembly but have a funny feeling I may be in touch!

 

You're welcome. Email me if you need the repair: [email protected]

[Bluegill]

You're welcome. Email me if you need the repair: [email protected]

 

Okay mate thanks. It'll be a while off if I do decide to do it that way. Want to have a good go myself.

 

I think it may be a motor issue. See the attached (and poor) image below. This is the rig as it is now. In theory, to complete the circuit, I must touch together the two red wires (that would usually be connected with the metal trigger plate that I've marked with the two white arrows) and then the motor should start. Is that correct? The battery is plugged in. Any other pointers as to go about testing the motor would be gratefully received!

 

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u130/Ni...EGMotorcopy.jpg

 

Thanks!

 

P.S - Will be heading to town this evening to get myself a few new tools. I'll be getting some needle-nose pliers, a small set of screwdrivers and a torx set. Anything else you think I'll need?

[Deva]

What you're explaining in your picture looks correct to me (I'm no expert I'm afraid, from what I can judge by the picture, electronically it should work assuming all connections are made and not loose or bad joints)

 

Not completely sure what Dave was getting at, but have you tried just directly hardwiring the battery to the motor (just a touch, ensuring all connections are definitely made) to see if it spins up?

 

We have a thread on a basic tool kit here:

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/?showtopic=2503

[Rock-climby-Dave]

with the motors, If they are put through a lot of stress/get worn out naturally, they can short circuit inside.

Motors are a magnet with wire wrapped around them, the more wraps, the more power the motor has

if the insulation between the wires is melted the wires can touch and create a short circuit

this short means the current doesnt flow round all the wraps, effectivley removing them from the circuit

this gives the motor less power

 

if the motor jumps around when there is a current passed through it, it should still be able to pull the gears

 

touching the motor to the battery straight off shouldn't do any damage, the circuit is basically just a battery, motor and switch (as you have removed the fuse)

[Bluegill]

Thanks Devastator, I did look at that thread and then got distracted!

 

Dave,

 

In simple terms, what would you say is the easiest way to connect the battery to the motor to test it? Which wires?

 

Shall I remove the red wire currently attached to the motor and replace it with the fuse holder nearest the battery? Surely that'd complete the circuit?

[Rock-climby-Dave]

don't need to replace it, you can probably just touch the fuse connector onto the motor conenctor, there should be just enough visible metal to touch them together.

and remember, if you are holding the motor, don't hold the 'spinny' end and if it works properly, It WILL want to jump out of your hand.

[Bluegill]

Ok, I've not got high hopes for this motor though as I've already touched the two red wires (with white arrows) in the picture together and have just had no results. Not even a teeny blip. What's the score if the motor is gone? Buy a new motor?

 

S'pose (hope) it could be a dodgy wire!

[REMSoft]

Ok, I've not got high hopes for this motor though as I've already touched the two red wires (with white arrows) in the picture together and have just had no results. Not even a teeny blip. What's the score if the motor is gone? Buy a new motor?

 

S'pose (hope) it could be a dodgy wire!

 

Hope so. Borrow an ammeter from someone.