V3 Trigger pull/reset distance (?)

[Sacarathe]

TL;DR Are all V3 gun's tigger pull and reset distances distinctly larger than V2 guns? (question not applied to bullpups)

 

I've noticed over the last few days that, the trigger pull and reset on semi fire with my new MP5K is very different to the V2 guns ive tried, and I was wondering if V3 guns are all distinguished from V2 in this manner, if this a consistent across all V3 guns?

 

Its clearly that the pivot point is further from the point of contact with the users finger.

 

I found that I was not able to easily repeatedly discharge the gun on semi, but more importantly the exertion was much higher too, furthermore I had repeated miscycles.

 

Of course with practice it will get better, but it felt like a distinct disadvantage over a typical V2 trigger mechanism. I had hoped that V3 would be functionally the same as V2.

 

Obviously play style is a big element of why this might be a problem, unless attempting greater than 2rd/s, it's not going to be a great problem, but such a large trigger pull also affects stability if trying to fire quick on semi. I'm quite an amateur player, i've only just managed to get my cheek welds sorted, so hopefully i'll be firing less shots per hit, but still, it feels like a blanket disadvantage.

 

 

OR MAYBE, its just that my trigger finger is a wimp.

[cyrexx]

Basically yes, in V2 gearbox the trigger levers straight against the switch trolley, but in V3 the trigger the trigger levers against another lever that then levers against the switch trolley, resulting in a longer trigger pull. I look at trying to shorten the trigger pull on my TM MP5K by using a BTC Chimera or ASCU as the use micro switches, but because of the nature of the trigger system it wouldn't have made much of a difference, so I just got used to having long trigger pull.

[Sitting Duck]

I bought a while back one of these:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRSOFT-AEG-8MM-FULL-GEARBOX-47-V3-VERSION-3-FRONT-WIRE-QD-APS-QUICK-RELEASE-AK-/272008716679?hash=item3f54fba187:g:ga0AAOSw4HVWFO0d

 

NOW DO YOU THINK I CAN FIND THE F*CKER !!!!!

 

Also bought a v2 box exact same type and 99% sure these used micro switches - short pull on/off

but to use these micro switch boxes you MUST have a fet fitted coz micro switch don't last long on higher juice

 

AK2M4 had some similar v2's with micro switches and sold the switches should they be needed

but not sure if he stocked the v3's

 

Now as was said in ya other post - the micro switch has a shorter pull indeed

(still don't fully understand the cut off layout on semi with micro switches)

 

So if I ever find this mofo bastid v3 from HelmetWorld - snigger soz Helmet World, I'll let ya know the difference

 

Also I'm sure there was a 10 or 15% code knocking around, I had one but long expired

 

Cheers hef:

 

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/16634-the-share-a-bargain-thread/page-10#entry213297

 

Dunno if still valid but might be worth a shot

 

yup it ain't cheap but not ultra expensive either - might get it for £55ish which ain't bad for a complete UK box

especially with quick change spring on top

 

But alas I can't help coz haven't come across it for a while now - too much other crap in this house of ours

(it was placed somewhere safe - now too safe coz I can't friggin' find the thing)

 

I know the v2 fitted in an old SRC M4 - big improvement, but was too hot with a m110 spring or something and just left it when I got G&G's RIF's

but deffo very short trigger pull in that SRC but no fet was fitted

(hmmm might dig that M4 out and start sorting it out to flog or something)

 

hope some of this crap helps - probably not

 

finally I take great offense to the ad's line:

 

"MAY NEED A QUALIFIED TOY ENGINEER TO FIT"

 

cheeky f*ckers - where do I get this TOY ENGINEER qualification then

insulting that word - qualified

pah I make this crap as I go - natural born bull$hitter me - fully qualified in that area for sure

[Sacarathe]

Basically yes, in V2 gearbox the trigger levers straight against the switch trolley, but in V3 the trigger the trigger levers against another lever that then levers against the switch trolley, resulting in a longer trigger pull. I look at trying to shorten the trigger pull on my TM MP5K by using a BTC Chimera or ASCU as the use micro switches, but because of the nature of the trigger system it wouldn't have made much of a difference, so I just got used to having long trigger pull.

 

Handy to know. Guess I will try and make do.

[Sitting Duck]

Been reading up since this post as my crappy D68 project and also noticed just how long all the v3 triggers are to pull.

 

So far made some progress without half the modding with a pin and f*ck knows what some old posts have said in the past.

Some plastic strips 2mm to 3mm thick by 4mm wide

& JB Weld is all you need

 

Seems that it may work bloomin' well but still early days

But much easier than some friggin' guides I have seen

Reckon the placement/places will also hold up well

But time will tell, could get very very fine trigger pull with a little modding of cut off or just reduce the pull by half with little else messing about

 

Will see how she fares and maybe post up my findings if it still works over chrimbo say

(Saves going to outlaws I guess)

[Rogerborg]

I'm deliberately bumping this topic as it's still one of the top Google hits for "airsoft MP5K trigger pull" / "V3 trigger pull" and similar.

 

Well, I put a bit of time into this.  The 2-piece trigger is always going to be a problem, as there's loads of slack in it before the 2nd part even starts to move forwards.  Then it has to move quite a long way back in order to reset the cut-off level.  It was easy enough to pre-tension by gluing a strip of plastic to the top front of the main trigger to stop it moving fully forwards / upwards against the gearbox, but this then stopped the semi-auto reset.

 

So eventually I hit on this pragmatic bodge: just stick pieces of cut up pencil eraser onto the trigger, which can be done with the gun fully assembled.

 

A piece on the front pre-tensions it, and you can also put a piece on the back to limit rearward travel and give a shorter total pull.  In both cases, hold the pieces in place while you work the trigger, and start with pieces that are too thick to allow triggering or resetting, then slowly pare them down until you get consisting fire-and-reset, and superglue in place.

 

It's still not what you'd call a short pull, but you can improve the stock pull a fair bit with very little time and effort. If it starts acting up on game day, just rip the rubber out and you're back to stock.

 

The pieces of white rubber are still unpainted here to make it clear what I've done - a dab of black will hide the bodge.