G36 upgrades haven't done much...

[Dannn]

I've just fitted this lot and threw 5 hi cap mags through it and I can't seem to see any difference shooting at the same targets at the same differences, only difference is I need to move the hop less for more hop...

A 6.3 mad bull tight bore

HSA M-nub

HSA R-hop Z-Kit

Prometheus Soft Purple AEG Bucking

Lonex Hop Up Unit

Fitted them all correctly, made sure the r hop was perfect not had it on the crono yet though

[ImTriggerHappy]

I've just fitted this lot and threw 5 hi cap mags through it and I can't seem to see any difference shooting at the same targets at the same differences, only difference is I need to move the hop less for more hop...

A 6.3 mad bull tight bore

HSA M-nub

HSA R-hop Z-Kit

Prometheus Soft Purple AEG Bucking

Lonex Hop Up Unit

Fitted them all correctly, made sure the r hop was perfect not had it on the crono yet though

Said it before rhop is overated. Seeing as you already have a shaved prommy purple you could try using a prommy briged nub with it.

Hop up units dont change much unless the original was really bad or damaged.

Madbull barrels are quite often worse than stock.

Its frustrating I have been there what are you trying to improve mainly accuracy or range?

[Dannn]

Trying for both accuracy and range, I know it's a g63 which is a short barrelled CQB toy, and it's mainly cq inside I'm playing but that little extra will always help, I'm hoping to get a little more fps with the tight bore too it's running 320-330 and our limit is 350 so I can go up a bit.

Might give a prompt bridged a go then...

I think it's a case of suck it and see

Also it seems to curve to the right at its maximum range, never noticed that before !

[ImTriggerHappy]

Trying for both accuracy and range, I know it's a g63 which is a short barrelled CQB toy, and it's mainly cq inside I'm playing but that little extra will always help, I'm hoping to get a little more fps with the tight bore too it's running 320-330 and our limit is 350 so I can go up a bit.

Might give a prompt bridged a go then...

I think it's a case of suck it and see

Also it seems to curve to the right at its maximum range, never noticed that before !

Barrel length isnt an issue its the same length as my sig. Tightbore doesnt help with accuracy best size to go for would be 6.05 or 6.08. You have too much pressure on the right side of your hop which is why its curving right. Your fps is fine for cqb even outdoors isnt an issue.

I use a firefly bucking and prommy or firefly flat nub with a PDI 6.05 in my sig it works a treat.

[Dannn]

Sooo, I've had the barrel out and shon a light from the muzzle end with a bb in the breech and the hop is just touching on the right, by a minuscule amount so very carefully sanded it with 8000 grit wet and dry by pressing on the right side of the hop rubber and sanding whilst it's fitted.... Let's see if that makes a difference !

[Sitting Duck]

first thing I do now is check nozzle actually fits the hop unit

sounds daft but some shs m4 red nozzles can be a smidge tight fir in G&G stock hop

 

check hop unit is sealing in hop - just them 2 items first

you should be able to feel the seal blowing down barrel with a ultra light press on nozzle in hop

 

next when you are starting to redo the box with tappet+nozzle in there

insert hop unit up against box correctly like it normally would in gun - check seal again

seal is crap it "may" indicate front of tappet could be shaved or sanded down a tiny slither

thus pushing the nozzle a tiny bit more foward to seal against hop bucking

 

other checks include with tappet/nozzle fully retracted ensure the nozzle is clear of hop feed tube so bb can enter ok

if not then additional work required to allow nozzle to travel back a smidge further

this is bit more involved as you need to check the sector's cam can pull back the tappet a little more

if not then the hop can be pushed forward with some electrician's tape on front of box to ensure the nozzle clears for bb to enter

but this would lessen the final seal against hop bucking so you need to check how much you can push tappet forward

 

basically the tappet/nozzle moves aprox 8mm or 9mm or so in total

what you are trying to achieve is getting that "window" of movement in the exact perfect position to allow bb's to feed easily

and also to seal perfectly against bucking.....

 

A piece of cake it sounds but unfortunately so many smidges of variations occur between various parts fitting together properly

small variations in nozzle lengths, tight fit in some hops, different hops can make a huge difference sitting either side of "window"

even down to the tappet plate's ridge where nozzle clips in - some have ridge in centre, others a tiny bit forward/backwards.

 

Oh yes it is a major bollock ache sometimes but it is where taking a bit more time checking everything bit by bit really pays off

the 416 was a major headache and a big learning curve getting that sod to work properly - but now is running very nicely

(jeez bet she busts now I said that, but so far it is perhaps one of my best builds to date)

 

on average a box rebuilt every 3 or 4 weeks and still I'm learning more n more n more with every box

is why I say 25% good parts & 75% care & attention to detail is what works for me atm, - so far anyway

 

always check and double check stuff before you pick up the file or dremmel or piece of sandpaper

but as of yet I haven't need to file nozzle but instead check & "adjust" the tappet movement/travel

[Dannn]

I'll check what you've posted and get it all back together see what happens !

[ImTriggerHappy]

first thing I do now is check nozzle actually fits the hop unit

sounds daft but some shs m4 red nozzles can be a smidge tight fir in G&G stock hop

 

check hop unit is sealing in hop - just them 2 items first

you should be able to feel the seal blowing down barrel with a ultra light press on nozzle in hop

 

next when you are starting to redo the box with tappet+nozzle in there

insert hop unit up against box correctly like it normally would in gun - check seal again

seal is crap it "may" indicate front of tappet could be shaved or sanded down a tiny slither

thus pushing the nozzle a tiny bit more foward to seal against hop bucking

 

other checks include with tappet/nozzle fully retracted ensure the nozzle is clear of hop feed tube so bb can enter ok

if not then additional work required to allow nozzle to travel back a smidge further

this is bit more involved as you need to check the sector's cam can pull back the tappet a little more

if not then the hop can be pushed forward with some electrician's tape on front of box to ensure the nozzle clears for bb to enter

but this would lessen the final seal against hop bucking so you need to check how much you can push tappet forward

 

basically the tappet/nozzle moves aprox 8mm or 9mm or so in total

what you are trying to achieve is getting that "window" of movement in the exact perfect position to allow bb's to feed easily

and also to seal perfectly against bucking.....

 

A piece of cake it sounds but unfortunately so many smidges of variations occur between various parts fitting together properly

small variations in nozzle lengths, tight fit in some hops, different hops can make a huge difference sitting either side of "window"

even down to the tappet plate's ridge where nozzle clips in - some have ridge in centre, others a tiny bit forward/backwards.

 

Oh yes it is a major bollock ache sometimes but it is where taking a bit more time checking everything bit by bit really pays off

the 416 was a major headache and a big learning curve getting that sod to work properly - but now is running very nicely

(jeez bet she busts now I said that, but so far it is perhaps one of my best builds to date)

 

on average a box rebuilt every 3 or 4 weeks and still I'm learning more n more n more with every box

is why I say 25% good parts & 75% care & attention to detail is what works for me atm, - so far anyway

 

always check and double check stuff before you pick up the file or dremmel or piece of sandpaper

but as of yet I haven't need to file nozzle but instead check & "adjust" the tappet movement/travel

All thats great info but the problem he has is hop related which is a lonex one so it should mate with the nozzle fine. The bit hes sanding is the rhop patch because its low on the right side.

[Dannn]

Righty ho... After fannying around with the hop, nub and bucking its shooting absolutely bang on straight !!!

Thousands of an inch make a difference in this game it seems... So I'm getting straight flight for 117' with .20 bb's then it's falling,at that distance I can hit a chest size object, that seems good to me, what say he all... any more hop and its curving up. So I'd say accurate to 80'

So the only way for more distance is a heavier bb and more hop...

What do you guys think ?

[Sitting Duck]

.25's at least but we all have to experiment with each gun and see what shoots best

some bb's are better/worse than others in some guns but not the same results in other gun

 

.25's maybe .30's if results work

or may have to settle for .25's or maybe 0.28's perhaps

 

all depends on your own gun and also what you can get hold of easily too

[Dannn]

The bb thing is the issue at the moment, I should have got a bag of .25 .28 &.30 whilst I was ordering stuff but didn't think my local site only ever has 20's so I'll have to get some and play a bit more...

I've read about r-hop lifting 30's using standard spring so I'll get experimenting 😜

Any excuse to take it to bits again !

[Samurai]

No need to r-hop. It's very hard to do it right and when you do get it right, there is no real difference to a good normal hopup rubber. Most normal rubbers can lift 0.30 in an average aeg.

[Dannn]

From what I've read it seems the longer contact patch of the r hop puts more back spin thus magnifying the Magnus effect compared to the standard hop.

Which according to my mate who read quantum physics is totally correct.

Can't argue with physics lol

[Sitting Duck]

every gun is different - even two exact same models

same as two brand new cars - one is sweet & other is a lemon

 

there comes a point that if you get it all running quite well then leave it until it loses performance

(if it ain't broke or bollox'd then don't try to fix or tweak it further - note to myself perhaps)

 

as it is - shooting well try heavier bb's and see how it goes

do not rip her apart - it could be down to a duff batch of 0.25's

(i got some 0.25's that are just pure unreliable $hit in every gun I tried - gonna use only for pistol ammo)

 

so by all means try a few weights/brands but reflect on results before ripping her apart - only tweak of hop should be needed

but finally - end of day, know your gun - learn its range/limit

then use the gun within its limits and you will be more successful when you engage in a fire fight

 

outside of this and you are just wasting time/ammo taking on snipers or much higher end guns

which quite likely a few of their upgrades could be more than the original cost of your gun

(just putting it into context)

 

classic example of no two guns are same:

 

got 2 x cm028a AK47's cheapo but good cheapo's

 

one out the box - no barrel cleaning just pick up n shoot - hits an aerosol can at 80ft 1 or 2 out of 5 shots

second one - 4 out of 5 shots

 

repeat test - yup 2nd ak is deffo a bit better so I ain't messing with that mofo for now

true or nigh on true 80ft measured with size 9 boots pigeon steps rather than say 80ft = 50ft in real terms

[Dannn]

I've noticed there's absolutely no consistency between the same guns even from the same manufacturing company !

[Sitting Duck]

aye but if ya think that is bad - wait until you got kids....

 

I was the last of 4 boys but my mum always said:

 

"if you had of been the first - you would of been the last"

(cheers mum)

 

test it out a bit on a variety of bb's brands & weights - not just mess about coz the first lot of .25's or .30's shoot a bit weird

Avoid FireBall 0.25's - these mofo's 1 in about 6 shoot pi$$ed or fall well short - "Jimmy's" as my son calls them

think they a friggin' egg shaped or something - probably get better results shooting dried peas or something than those poxy things