Jaggardos Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Hi everyone,For all those electric pistol wizzes out there, heres a question for you:I recently needed my glock to only fire in semi auto, due to site indoor rules, however I noticed that it only wanted to fire in full (Ive never really needed it to fire only in semi in a game, so never really noticed the problem).Probably something to mention is its been upgraded with SHS steel gears and an 11.1v lipo, so the rof is a blur, and its been shimmed perfectly and has been running for a while now without fault (except for this little problem).I took it apart today just to see if anything is either broken or worn, and found nothing, thinking that maybe the plastic tappet plate might have been weathered, but it was fine. ANYWAY, a really weird thing that's happening now is that its firing in bursts when in semi! Yes, its now firing in 3 rnd bursts, even though it hasn't been electronically or mechanically modified to do so. I don't understand, seeing as I didnt change anything, I just took it apart to have a look.So yeah, if anyone knows every single little thing about Glock AEPs, especially how the firing mode is controlled (does it stop the gear or cut off power etc) that would be great. I know quite a bit about how these things work already, but this is baffling me.Thanks, Jagg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Nutster Posted January 22, 2014 Supporters Share Posted January 22, 2014 I would imagine the ROF is so high it's turning over 3 times instead of just the once on semi Other than that I'm no expert on AEP's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RR01 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 AEPs are not designed for high speed. It's very probably the 11.1V Lipo that is causing your problem, as it's turning over the motor so fast it cannot stop in time to just complete one cycle. Try dropping the battery to a 7.4V Lipo and it should solve your problem, as my CYMA Dessie AEP runs on a 7.4V Lipo without any problems on semi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted January 22, 2014 Supporters Share Posted January 22, 2014 Welcome to the forums mate. i would drop the lipo to a 7.4v but you "may" some times still get it firing twice, my CYMA G18c occasionally dose . 7.4v lipo's are pretty cheap from hobby king Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Ian_Gere Posted January 23, 2014 Supporters Share Posted January 23, 2014 If it's running fine, apart from this problem, on 11.1V then I'd want to keep that for the trigger response. No worrying signs of wear on the piston teeth or the anti-reversal latch? No chunks taken out of the gears or scrappy wear on the pinion gear? It is the voltage causing the motor to spin on - it's because there is energy built up in the magnetic field of the coil and even after the power is cut it has to dissipate. An active breaking MOSFET is the way forward - it creates a high resistance dump for that energy so the motor stops as soon as the trigger is released. More complex MOSFET's can be tuned to allow the motor to run for exact lengths of time longer, or just long enough to pre-cock the piston. Obviously there isn't much room inside an AEP, but this should be just the thing since it's only 4 x 9 x 20mm - I've been waiting for them to be back in stock but f-s notify list has failed me, anyhoo I just ordered one because the Pico SSR v1 is great for simple power regulation even though it is so tiny. Not sure now whether to put it in my V61 Scorpion as part of the LiPo upgrade I want to do on it, or Morena my new CYMA CM.048 and upgrade her electrics right away, or sack the fat pcb+FET I bought from fleabay for Phatima... decisions, decisions! Which 11.1V LiPo are you using in your Glock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.