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The 'Quick Questions' thread.


SimonQuigley
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Does anyone know if Kanzen have a homepage and, if so, what is the url? Alternatively, do they make their Synergie Ceramic Bearings in 6mm size and, if so, where can I get the buggers from?

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Whichever you like, the only difference is colour lol.

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who else sells these apart from airsoft world?

http://www.airsoftworld.net/tokyo-marui-blue-two-tone-glock-26-semi-auto-spring-pistol.html

like im paying £8 for shipping

If you're thinking of taking that to a skirmish, don't bother. £8 is not a lot as they use TNT couriers fixed rates. I don't think royal mail will take this, but you may be able to change the postage type.

 

 

 

G&G combat machines use the black grey mag colour

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If you're thinking of taking that to a skirmish, don't bother. £8 is not a lot as they use TNT couriers fixed rates. I don't think royal mail will take this, but you may be able to change the postage type.

 

 

 

G&G combat machines use the black grey mag colour

They come with a grey one, but you can use any colour you like lol.

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Right lads, this ones for those of you that are eletrically minded.

 

Just got my G&G M14 and I'm skirmishing it tomorow, it came wired to large taimya, I've got an adapter than allows me to use mini-taimya attached to it... If I included my plug and play mostfet it won't short the circuit or anything terrible like that will it?

 

Larger taimya -> G&G large to mini adapter -> King kong plug and play mosfet -> 9.6v 1600 mah battery.

 

 

 

EDIT:

 

Answered my own question, no it will not, but the gun will not cycle.

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It should work fine. If it doesn't then some part of the wiring / connectors is broken.

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It does one second, but then the next couple of shots there will be a whining noise as if the motor isn't working. I think the amount of connectors means not enough energy is efficiently getting through? I'll wire it to mini-taimya soon and it should be problem solved.

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It does one second, but then the next couple of shots there will be a whining noise as if the motor isn't working. I think the amount of connectors means not enough energy is efficiently getting through? I'll wire it to mini-taimya soon and it should be problem solved.

That sounds more serious than dodgy connectors. With such low voltage it really wouldn't work like that. I mean yeah, it is theoretically possible for a bad connection to increase the resistance of the circuit so much that the motor is getting insufficient power from the battery, but in practice all that would happen is the wire/metal of the dodgy bit would get really hot and melt / set fire to the insulation, or it just wouldn't work at all.

 

How well does it work with just a battery connected to the gun?

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That sounds more serious than dodgy connectors. With such low voltage it really wouldn't work like that. I mean yeah, it is theoretically possible for a bad connection to increase the resistance of the circuit so much that the motor is getting insufficient power from the battery, but in practice all that would happen is the wire/metal of the dodgy bit would get really hot and melt / set fire to the insulation, or it just wouldn't work at all.

 

How well does it work with just a battery connected to the gun?

As soon as I removed the mosfet it started working again, kind of sh*tting a brick incase I damaged the firing mechanism when re-assembling the gun ( I only field stripped it in the first place). Long story short, I spent two hours field stripping and re-assembling determined I was doing it wrong because the trigger group wasnt completely flush with the stock, apparrently it's supposed to be like that?

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When I got my SRC SR4. There was no third middle gear on the hop-up. Does that mean I have to move the gear on the right to change the hop-up??

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As soon as I removed the mosfet it started working again, kind of sh*tting a brick incase I damaged the firing mechanism when re-assembling the gun ( I only field stripped it in the first place). Long story short, I spent two hours field stripping and re-assembling determined I was doing it wrong because the trigger group wasnt completely flush with the stock, apparrently it's supposed to be like that?

I dunno how the gearbox sits in an M14 mate, never had one or seen one broken down. Did you check youtube for vids of ppl doing it? BTW, did you strip it down so you could solder the extra wire in place and change the trigger contact wire config?

 

I recently did that on my G36 with a King Kong, but I couldn't get it to work properly. I thought it was because i swapped batteries for a 8.4V NiMh (b/c the LiPo needed charging), then when i swapped back to my 7.4V LiPo the LiPo Alarm function went off and would not for the love of fcuk work right even after trying to reset it. I ended up swapping back to just plug'n'play and it works fine.

 

I ask b/c i don't understand why you would break it down otherwise...?

 

Anyway, AK gearboxes and G36 have triggers that aren't quite flush with the lower receiver, the bottom of the gearbox just sits on the bottom of the receiver so there's the thickness of the receiver stopping it being flush.

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I dunno how the gearbox sits in an M14 mate, never had one or seen one broken down. Did you check youtube for vids of ppl doing it? BTW, did you strip it down so you could solder the extra wire in place and change the trigger contact wire config?

 

I recently did that on my G36 with a King Kong, but I couldn't get it to work properly. I thought it was because i swapped batteries for a 8.4V NiMh (b/c the LiPo needed charging), then when i swapped back to my 7.4V LiPo the LiPo Alarm function went off and would not for the love of fcuk work right even after trying to reset it. I ended up swapping back to just plug'n'play and it works fine.

 

I ask b/c i don't understand why you would break it down otherwise...?

 

Anyway, AK gearboxes and G36 have triggers that aren't quite flush with the lower receiver, the bottom of the gearbox just sits on the bottom of the receiver so there's the thickness of the receiver stopping it being flush.

I'll post some pictures up soon, Just back from my first skirmish with it. It performed OKAY, but not amazing to be honest, though I think that may not be entirely the guns fault. Range was good, hop up is very sensitive though and my goggles were steaming to hell so I couldn't aim properly for most of the day.

 

I was doing some work on the stock to give it that "worn" look, sanding certain parts lightly and the like.

 

RE the eletrical problem I was having, for the majority of the time the gun fired as it should, a few times the motor would make a werrrh noise when I pulled the trigger, and nothing happened, and a few times I pulled the trigger and nothing whatsoever happened. I'm having a look at the gun now to see if I knocked anything on my last take down, and I'm going to ask on a 'Nam forum as alot of the guys there use M14's so they should be a fountain of knowledge.

 

I'm not going to tackle the wiring myself, it's my birthday next month so when I have a bit of cash I'm going to send it off to the Z1 tech and get it upgraded to DMR spec. I'll have him change the connectors for me and install a wired mosfet.

 

Thanks for the suggestioms though mate, I'll let you know how I get on and post up here incase anyone else has the same problem in future.

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Everything about it is better in honesty, the only downside for me is mag capacity, but even with only 200 shots (total) I still get a full game out of mine, you just have to be a bit pickier about what you shoot at.

 

The AEP hits 230FPS on a good day and has range to match, the GBB on the other hand will happily do 320-330 fps and has range that embarrasses quite a lot of people's sniper rifles, accuracy to match too!

 

Oh, and the blowback on it is absolutely brilliant, it's my favourite gun by a long stretch because it's just so fun to use. Gas consumption isn't too bad either, I'll normally get a good 3 game days out of one bottle of abbey ultra, so it adds ~£3 to a skirmish in gas.

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