steverebo

Yeah I saw that video I wasn't looking at the over priced titan's I have seen a few other companies like valken who have some 3000mah 11.1v lions for about £25/£30 my current 11.1v 1450 30c lipo's were £25. I'm just liking the idea of 3000mah capacity but wanted to know if they perform as good as lipo's

So my new gun has arrived and I want to buy a new battery for it with higher capacity. My current batteries are nuprol 1450mah 11.1v 30c lipos I was potentially looking at a 3000mah 11.1v lion How do these nlcompare to each other in regards to power and performance

I'm using the g&g drum magazine. I used some good old brass and drill and then thoroughly cleaned it out with isopropyl alcohol

It's the stock g&g plastic hop and stock plastic nozzle, I will check for any burrs when I get home but surely that would effect the trajectory of the bb and once the barrel is clean it is laser sharp accurate. I have used vorsk .25 blaster devil .25 and some .25 tracer rounds all have had this issue. When I cleaned the barrel out on site the residue came off like a skin in bits

Yep thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol I've also polished the inner barrel

Here is a picture and this is after around 500 rounds

So my gun shoots like a laser but after skirmishing it this evening I had massive accuracy issues after the first 90 minute game and looking my barrel it was full of a white residue I managed to removed it all with the unjamming end of my cleaning rid and my accuracy went back to laser perfect. It's a ZCI 200mm barrel, I have never had build up like this with any gun I've owned I use blaster devil bb's on all my guns so what could be causing this. I tried polishing the barrel hoping that might help but it still builds up instantly

So I've finally fixed all my issues I short stroked by one tooth which to be fair I needed as I was over for my cqb sight and use the custom tappet plate and spring I now get perfect 294 to 297 on semi and 290 to 295 on full auto which is close enough I use 3 round burst anyway and that stays at around the semi fps level. Who would have thought a simple motor upgrade would be this much stress especially as its pretty much the same rpm as my stock ifrit motor

Ok one modified tappet plate I removed a small amount at the top so it picks up a bit later and removed some from the bottom so it goes back faster should I take a bit more from the bottom or do you think that's enough

Is it safe to take 4 coils from tappet spring?

Mine is very similar in shape a bit bigger but I have the extended side in the right as well

Would my shs delayer chip have any effect on this?

But all my batteries are 11.1v 30c There must be another way

FIXED IT!!!!!!!! so my stupid titan's battery protection and overdischarge protection was not playing nice with my warhead (i was unaware but warhead motors have thier own battery protection) so now with active breaking at 100% my nozzle remains in the released position after every shot meaning the seal intact and my fps stays within a 5fps ish variance. Now my final issue to solve is the 50fps drop when I go to full auto

Ok the plot thickens, I put the warhead in my m4 with its 18:1 gears and perun mofset and found it was perfect so I looked at my mofset realised my preun had some quiet heavy active breaking on. I put the warhead back in my arp9 and tur Ed on 100% active breaking and bingo my fos was bang on but with a caviet the warhead motor seems to fire a few shots then on the next shot it just moves a tiny bit enough to pull the nozzle back but doesn't cycle and then the next shot is fine and it continues doing this at random so I began dropping the active breaking pwm level down 20% at a time and no matter what level it does it

Nope no signs of pre engagement I initially tried this with the same gears but short stroked by 3 teeth and my first thought was ot didn't like the short stroking so I grabbed a new set of gears and just changed out the sector gear issue still persists. I do have a delayer chip installed I have tried it with and without with the same result

Ok I'm at my wits end after lots of trial and error I have worked out that my warhead base 27k motor is the cause of all my pain. When I install the warhead motor in my gun the fps is all over the place with lows of 280 and highs of 330 on .25 but when I put my old ifrit motor in my fps is stable and with 5fps. I am using 13:1 gears no short stroking with a titan advanced mofset on an 11.1v 30c battery. I'm at the point now that if I can't get this working I will just sell it

I might try and cut a few mm from my tappet and see if that helps my arp9, I have had someone suggest to me trying a dsg tappet plate with my ssg gears due to the fast cycle time so I may even try that

You have just completely described the issue I am having with my arp9 since upgrading to my warhead base 27k my fps has dropped by around 40fps I tried sanding down my delayer chip no luck it's been driving me mad

Just an update, I turned off active breaking turned on precocking set it tk manual on ots pre set lowest setting and now my nozzle rests perfectly in the forward position. I'm sure its the delayer chip causing it just glad I worked it out cheers guys hopefully this assists someone else

Yep the cycle completes and leaves the piston in exactly the same position. I think it might be the delayer chip contributing to this as I think it stops the gear in what it believes to be the perfect position but the delayer chip is still preventing the tappet plate from moving forward it probably just needs to to stop a moment later to allow the nozzle to go forward

That's perfect cheers bud i will have a play whe i get home, I recon a small amount of precock and no AB will allow the nozzle to rest properly. I don't mind the free precock but I want to ensure my gun lasts as long as possible

Nah its an arp9 so the short barrel means means I'm running an M125 spring so rps isn't that wankerish as all and it's my CQB gun so it tends to stay on semi and I just wanted instant trigger response which this give me. According to my gate titan my trigger response is 56ms Really on there website it says: PRE-COCKING SET TO: OFF For best results pre-cocking should be set to off as this can interfere with the braking cycle of the motor and create undesired results.it is possible to use a small amount of pre-cocking in some cases but for the best uninterrupted operation we recommended turning this setting to off. The way the nozzle rests is perfect precocking anyway but maybe if I use a small amount it might correct it