frontsight

Yeah loctite is pretty amazing stuff! Don't use it on really small screws with small screwheads (don't ask me how I know?‍♂️). But I use it on all my 1911 / hi capa metal slides with loose sights. As loctite cures it expands a bit and sort of fills in the gaps. It's somewhat "flexible" too, so stands up to impacts a lot better than glue. This is a guarder slide and AM sight, you can see the gap the tolerances are quite loose. With the loctite method I can't get it out if I tried

Get a small tube of Loctite blue (NOT red) threadlocker. It comes quite handy for a variety of purposes including setting sights. Clean the sight notch and the sight, put a tiny dab of loctite, install the sight and then let it sit for 24 hours. you can set the slide upside down on the sights to apply some pressure. Once it sets in it's almost permanent. To remove you just need to heat it for a bit using a hair dryer and tap it out. Superglue is ok, but loctite seems to have better longevity and resistance to impact.

made-to-order set of magwell-cut grips for a Springfield Pro build. Closest to the real thing I could get here in the UK. Should darken up nicely to a deep reddish brown like cocobolo once it gets a few coats of tung oil Real-steel reference I'm going for. Still waiting on the magwell to get here

My Tactical and Practical setup. Which one's your choice? And by practical I mean practical shooting; which makes it completely unwieldy and unpractical. Both weigh in at around 1kg? Olight courtesy of a fellow forum member Glock has been short-stroked with the slide stop filed back 14mm so it can still lock back when dry "brass" checks - I can't be the only one who LARPs this with an airsoft gun Added a 150mm crazyjet inner barrel on the 1911 because why not. Ends right before the last baffle on the comp

How about a comp? I think it would look extra race-y with a comp sticking out? Especially with the 6 second mount. The TM hammer assembly is pretty durable, so why not spend that money on a threaded barrel (~20 ish) and a comp (~10) I have a similar issue and was looking for an answer on this as well. The trigger stays back by catching on the disconnector, and this is basically held in by friction. When something pushes the trigger bar down (like the BBU when the slide goes back if it's working as intended, or you manually pushing it like you mentioned) this releases this friction hold and the trigger goes forward. I think that the slide is pushing the trigger bar down too much even when in battery, or the friction between the disconnector and trigger bar is not great enough to hold it in place. My theory is that as the trigger bar wears down where it sticks out, it should decrease this issue (less pressure pushing down the trigger bar) But unfortunately I'm not that familiar with Glock internals so kinda hoping someone who's more knowledgeable has an answer. Just FYI mine had the same issue with both stock and upgrade parts; so don't buy a replacement trigger bar as it probably won't fix the issue.

Don't be like me... Be patient and think it over twice, thrice, four times? If I recover from this damage I might go for a full Vincent Hanna loadout haha.. Has anyone shown up to game day with a suit before?

What are the chances of this...? About a month or so ago I wanted to start a new project build of Al Pacino's 1991 in heat, then Nova comes out with the EXACT same kit for 3 times what I had in mind It has to be some glitch in the matrix or some sick joke. Contemplated all day and just went ahead with it.. Do you guys have any tips on how one can stop spending money on their toy guns??‍♂️

Ah ?‍♂️ that makes perfect sense. (Very shitty educational diagram by the way, helped it make sense a lot)

Thanks for confirming! I figured that would be an issue.. Just being picky I guess. A tighter fit slide somehow equates to quality in my mind, but like you said really doesn't improve much performance wise.

Hello, I'm looking for some advice from you tech savvy gentlemen on a question that I can't seem to find answers here or any other airsoft related forum. Despite the provocatively named thread, unfortunately the question is completely PG. The particular issue is with a TM 1911 with a Guarder kit but I assume this could apply to most metal GBBP's. I would like to increase the tightness of the slide to frame fit on my handgun, as Guarder kits being cast-alloys the slide has a bit of play when there's no mag inserted. While this doesn't affect performance it just eggs my OCD a bit and makes me want to tinker with it. I've done some research on what people do to improve slide to frame wobble on real steel handguns, and it seems like "peening" (?) and "squeezing" (???) are options I could consider. I've attached some example pics I found below, but basically it entails reshaping/bending some material on either the slide or frame rails to tighten up the fit. As crude as it seems this method does seem to have some history and people who swear by it. I have some idea on how I could go about doing this, now the question is how different the typical alloys used on airsoft are compared to steel used on real firearms. Am I asking for trouble here? How malleable are the zinc alloys (the typical pot-metal you see in TM or WE guns) or low-grade aluminum (from guarder kits)? My main concern is that the pot-metal would probably crack/shatter instead of bending when hammered/squeezed; costing £150 as the frame rails are the only "unreplaceable" part on TM 1911's. I've seen some posts of people here with legit workshop setups in their shed, machining zamak receivers and such; and am curious if any of you have any insight to working with pot-metal. Peening a 1911 frame : hammering the frame rails to widen them Squeezing a 1911 slide : squeezing the slide rails to make them grip the frame tighter Similar example of manipulating slide rails, done to a Glock using a hammer:

redditsave.com_greetings_citizen_do_you_have_seditious-g6dfjbg3k4x81-480.mp4

You're telling me I read the situation wrong? How dare you. I have exceptional situational awareness and that never happens

Might be me as a new user not understanding the culture here but why is there so much passive aggressive drama on these forums? I get disagreeing on stuff since it's all personal taste after all, but these weird passive aggressive posts kinda makes me cringe. Makes me think that it might draw away users on an already pretty small community. End of the day we're just a bunch of dumbasses playing with toy guns. I mean there's a pink p90 just a few pages back ffs... ?‍♂️ And don't anyone dare disagree with me, I know what I'm talking about. TIER ONE BABY

Hi @july_pi, really enjoying seeing your custom work! Can I ask how you fitted the dovetail front/rear sight on a standard 1911a1 slide (image below)?

Getting good 1911 grips in the UK seems near impossible to be honest. Even more so for non-government sized models. I've seen some officer sizes for sale on Brownells (example), and I'm also currently working with Navidrex (homepage - US based; supplies grips to Brownells UK) on a set of custom made-to-order wood grips. Its around $20 for a custom set of hand checkered grips so pretty affordable. Shipping costs more than the grips though.. Fingers crossed that UPS doesn't muck up the shipping but otherwise Navidrex was really good with accommodating custom options so check them out. This is a standard Navidrex set sold on Brownells (colour is a bit darker with ~10 coats of tung oil). I'm pretty sure they can make something like this in officer size from scratch.

Thanks! And oh for sure, the trigger feels as weird as it looks ? Cerakote is from Mark @ High Calibre Coatings

TRP back from the Cerakoters after doing some modifications

No wonder it looked so good... I can't afford to spend £300+ on a light........

Could you let me know which brand's x300 that is?

I might copy your style and write on holsters for a flannel daddy loadout. What kind of white paint is that?

haha if you'd asked me a while back I would've agreed! I thought they looked like someone stuck one of those small hotel soap bars in the triggerguard. I think continuing to look at them a lot made them grow on me. Or it could be that the disgust/trauma from seeing it made me grow affectionate of them; kinda like Stockholm syndrome? It seems to be a recent tacticool fad but they do present some practical value as it provides a consistent trigger "press" even if the finger isn't perfectly centered on the trigger More pics to flip you as well

Man that's a mean looking setup! Can I interest you in a Hackathorn-style setup with blacked out rear and fiber front sights? I personally really like the JLP front sights. Because it's so open you can see below the sight picture is even brighter than the 2mm enclosed DP one. Feels as bright as a reddot in daylight. They make a fully open (booster) and semi-enclosed (accelerator) version for the 1911, should fit the army 1911's as well. Rainbow8 has them for ~£16 (~20 with shipping) Only con with JLP is it is a bit blocky with the sharp edges that can catch on holsters and such.. I think it adds a menacing look though Patrolbase seems to have army front fiber's as well, but not sure the quality on these are; they look decent though so check them out -> https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/army-armament-1911-fiber-optic-front-sight

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=634_223&products_id=33856 if you have £1k to spare, and can handle proprietary designs that don't have cross compatibility with other aftermarket parts, Nova does make an RMR p-DPO. I want a cool 2011 too but not brave enough to pull that trigger... Otherwise the marui DOR hi capa seems to be the closest lookalike option. Just squint a little when you look at it and you can make any gun look like something you want ?

That looks awesome!!! Can you also share when you have it printed? Really curious as to how it comes out. That thing is going to look killer ?

I think the Cow Cow grip with the trigger undercut and flat trigger matches with the "tactical" look of the slide. All three options look pretty cool though Flat triggers look good on tactical 1911's as well!