frontsight

You gotta show us that full auto!!! FA NS.mp4

Now I just need a black leather holster and only speak in eccentric catchphrases

Along with the potential for breaking, propane (green gas, power gas etc.) has less compressibility than 134/144 gas. Meaning that you can't fill as much volume in the mag. Not sure how much this translates to number of shots fired but the difference is tangible in my experience. If you really do want to use stronger gasses what I do is mix them. Fill about 70% with 144a and "top it off" with green gas. You get the benefit of FPS and kick from heavier gasses and 144's compressibility for volume. That being said I only use power gases on metal guns

I see it as a side effect of being a 1st world country; bureaucracy I guess? I've lived in places where real firearms were more available than airsoft, and also places where laws regarding airsoft were even more ridiculous than the UK. I agree I understand the logic behind it but I am curious though; has there been any high-profile case in the UK where a RIF was used in a crime? Or do people get mugged with replicas a lot? What happened in the mid 2000's in the UK that suddenly made airsoft so evil?

Still in the ideation stage of a new build but wanted some feedback. Not sure if I should commit or not just yet as it might be a lot of work. The more I look into it it seems doable... Please convince me otherwise ------------------------------------------------------------ Been toying around with an idea of an Heirloom Precision build. Ran into this image on Heirloom Precision's website. They're a RS high-end 1911 custom shop that takes your base 1911 and does a whole bunch of cool stuff to it (for a whole bunch of money). I really like the juxtaposition of the old school slide with the modern stuff like Heine sights slathered on it. I've seen some airsoft builds of the Street Kings 1911 which also sports a 1911a1 slide with custom fitted sights so I know people have done it in the past; I'm just not sure I can do it -From another user on arniesairsoft a long long time ago. Note the hicapa sight on the 1911a1 slide The plan is to buy this Guarder series 70 kit with the small peephole sights And fit MEU sights like this I have the Heine sights, so just need to cut the dovetails to MEU spec. Looking at the plastic slides for the TM 1911a1 and MEU there seems to be enough material to remove on the a1 model. Will have a practice run on the plastic slide and post updates. Wish me luck...

1. No more so than anything metallic 2. No, prep is identical Can I play devil's advocate here and maybe suggest changing the parts to aftermarket (ie. nylon fiber frames & alu slides)? I suggest that since cerakote is not permanent (esp. if you use kydex holsters) and you could just upgrade the shiny part itself for the same cost or just slightly more. Added to this I don't believe you can use the bake-on H series or Elite series cerakote on plastic. It will have to be air-cured C series which I equate to very good quality spray paint... Sure you might lose some performance with metal slides but if it's the aesthetics you're after I think it's money better spent.

Those are some nice looking guns. I also am thinking of getting a nice V10 build done sometime soon. Good news is Guarder seem to be revisiting some of the 1911 variants (govt / hicapa / v10) and creating new upgrade parts for them which is pretty nice. V10 slide & frame kit seem to be next on the agenda, along with a steel inner chassis which is a first for any manufacturer to make for 1911's P.S. There's some talk on other forums confirming that Guarder is planning to release a 1911 STEEL kit pretty soon as well. So Inokatsu will have a pretty decent competitor in terms of affordable steel 1911's -someone confirmed this with Guarder after they released the steel parts recently So hang tight! Cool stuff for the 1911's (incl. V10) should be coming pretty soon

That's really nice. tbh I kinda like the current color scheme. It has the color scheme of a vintage muzzle loader with a browned barrel & blued frame - with a reddot.. lol Throw some wood grips on there and it will become even more confusing😁

No worries man, thanks for confirming! That's great that the bureau model slides have bushing notches. Will keep note of that for future builds👍

I had this issue too when I installed a magwell. On other forums I've found that guarder baseplates (both thin and extended) can solve this issue. I didn't want to spend any more money though so I just left it as stock and it somehow solved itself😂 I think the tolerance issue was really small for me and the magwell eventually squeezed the baseplate enough to fit. If you want to go DIY I guess you could carefully file a bevel on the top of the baseplate.. I thought of doing this but thankfully the issue solved itself

I really like the color matching you did with the trigger. May I ask why is your dust cover so rusty though😂

HA, that's a whole nother level of incompetence... noted and will avoid UPS Don't tease us. Show us how it looks like mounted!

Thanks for all the advice guys. Damn, that's a lot of options I can choose from! Will have to take some time this weekend to look into all the different models you guys suggested and make the call. Shame that FRV Tailoring is a no-go, as by first glance their belt seems exactly what I am looking for...

Ugh. I hate when I'm all hyped up for a delivery only to see this. You should meet my local DPD, anything short of a full on sprint to the door and they say missed delivery.. everytime.

Hello! I'm looking for some advice on setting up a battle belt for a pistol only loadout. For those of you who run belts mainly, what brands would you recommend? Is there anything I should avoid? I'm thinking of going for something outside the waistband, with a velcro inner belt or just inner padding. Planning on keeping it minimal; 5~6 KYWI mag pouches and a holster, maybe a dump pouch. Let me know your personal favorites! I'm trying to find something sturdy enough but also a bit low profile and not as massive looking like a weightlifting belt.. https://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/raptor-tactical-odin-belt-mark-iii-30084-p.asp <-something like this, but not sure what brands are good in terms of quality/fit/sturdiness etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Ah I see haha that makes sense. Yeah mine was the first RS light I spent any real money on and it seems really nice. Kinda worried about the whole exploding olight thing though.. Maybe I'm just being paranoid

Damn! That's pretty light for a hi capa.. Don't tell me that's real carbon fiber on the tracer can??? Also nice to see a fellow chad Olight enjoyer The machine says that your hi capa is for £3.95, I can take it off your hands for an even £4 😁

Tried something new other than the usual 1911 stuff over the weekend and prepped my TM G18C frame before stippling. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- The initial idea behind this build was strictly "form follows function", where everything on it would serve some sort of utilitarian purpose. Eventually that approach skewed into adding all the tactical accoutrements that I see in the airsoft & real-steel community. The end-goal now is to have it so ridiculously Gucci'd-out that it looks like something out of a sci-fi film. Started by removing finger grooves. Used 120 grit sandpaper with a hard sanding block. Didn't bother going any higher than 120 since the frame will be stippled anyway. I don't have a dremel tool so taped off parts to minimize scratches from filing/sanding. The frame is a Guarder aftermarket part for a gen 3 G17. Thumb rests also removed Couldn't really take too many pics of the process as I was covered in black nylon fiber powder most of the time. Here's some of the modifications and the reasoning behind them. Finger grooves removed and undercut triggerguard: Rolled up some 120 grit on a hammer handle and hand sanded, adding a chamfering bevel on each side afterwards. Surprised how much of a difference this makes. You can grip so much higher on the gun almost to the point where your grip angle changes. If you had to do just one mod I would recommend the undercut. Some RS shops seem to polish this part to a mirror finish but I just left it gritty as it might cause blisters if too smooth. Thumb rest removal and mag release scallop. I've seen these mods on some of the higher end Glocks that come out of custom shops and such. However, unlike the RS frames, airsoft frames don't seem to have enough thickness in this area create a deep enough scallop for any meaningful difference. It does make the mag release a bit easier to reach without breaking my extra-medium sized grip, but wish I could cut out a little more. Will probably add a border when stippling to make the scallop stand out a bit more visually. Some RS examples of "scallops". Tried to copy the round style of the ATEI G19 (leftmost photo). Note how much deeper the scallop cut is. Airsoft frames don't have much material here. Internals and short-stroking: The build started off with making sure everything that reciprocates is as light and frictionless as possible, while anything that doesn't is as heavy as possible. All the lower parts and the hop up are steel/stainless, while the moving parts are more weight-conscious (7075 slide, lightweight BBU with polymer backplate, non-tilting outer barrel, etc.). While this makes the cycling speed akin to the plastic stock version, I really wanted something faster, something that would go brrrrrrt on regular 144a gas- so I short stroked it like a madman. Filed back the slide stop ~14mm to allow it to lock back while short stroked. Image below shows the difference in travel compared to stock. The only concern is the slide itself slightly thinner in this area than where the notch used to be. Fingers crossed it holds up; but if it doesn't I'll just short stroke it some more🙃 Some ideas I'm playing with for the next steps. I really want to go all-in with the weight reduction concept and mill out some slide windows that agree with the general design language of the gun. It'll probably only save about 5 grams but would still look pretty good. They would also serve as forward cocking serrations since the selector switch doesn't really provide a comfortable grip to rack the slide. Which one do you prefer : (A) moderate and matching with the top port or (B) full length ports all the way to the chamber ? By the way, does anyone have any recommendations for stippling services? Looking for some place that does laser stippling or soldering. Not really confident that I'll be able to create clean borders doing it myself.

Just curious, about how long (time or roundcount, whichever comes first) does it take to wear out an aluminum hi capa slide to the point it's non-functional? I've seen on other platforms alu kitted guns with 10+ years of hard skirmish use and still kicking

I had to google this and boy I'm more confused than I was before I searched it xd

Ah I see. Didn't realize you could anodize in patterns like that! That loadout looks like something straight out of a videogame haha Please do share pics once it's finished!

Jesus! Those are some unique builds; I have so many questions How did you get a patterned finish like that on the first gun? Is it hydro dipped? How/who/where is it possible to fit wood grips on hi capa grips? I see. That's great there's someone akin to Mike from ESC, I initially contacted him for the Cerakote but was sad to hear he's now retiring.

Limcat slides seem to be the end-all for quality hicapa slides. Never had the chance to try one before. Also, does the slide stop still function when you install those forward assist thingys (not sure what they're called)? Didn't even notice until you mentioned 😁

That bottom one is really nice. Probably the aesthetic I'll be aiming for if I ever build one

Those color combos are pretty sick! Could you let me know where do you get the limcat slides? I've been meaning to get in to a full-on Hi capa build but can't seem to find decent slides anywhere..